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  #101  
Old 01-29-2015, 06:32 PM
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I know some people will want the switch, but after installing mine, I was concerned that I had created a potential point of failure just for the sake of convenience. So I uninstalled it (it's for sale if anyone wants it - PM me, I actually have two of them).

I'm much happier with my new solution. I used one of those battery quick disconnects I mentioned in an earlier post. I don't think it will work on cars with air suspension since the compressor obstructs it. Also, you need to be able to reach through an opening in the spare tire. But for my no-air 3.0, 17" OE spare wheel/tire, and the Walmart battery, it fits perfectly = enough room to install it, and enough room to get past the compressor shell thing. Hopefully it is clear in the photo attached here. The photo was taken looking through the opening in my 17" wheel OE spare tire.

I actually made one more modification after this photo was taken. With the green knob down there and hard to reach, I did not want to tighten it too much in case I would not be able to loosen it when needed. This made it too loose, as I found out once when the car would not start. So I replaced the knob with a screw which I tighten with a screwdriver I keep with the other tools in that compartment. This is now a perfect solution for me. I don't think I have compromised the original system, and it is very convenient to disconnect the battery when I'm working on the car.

Also, the battery quick disconnect can be found anywhere for about $5-$7.
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  #102  
Old 05-11-2015, 03:27 PM
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Ever since I read about Terminator's nightmare scenario of the cutoff switch, I've been meaning to relocate the switch. So this weekend I finally had some time.

Got me a couple of these


Same switch



I ended up doing the connection from the ground side that way the battery terminals are intact



Wiring to the switch




Buttoning up


Final switch location


Only thing left to do is bolt the switch so it doesnt move. Also looking at a decal or something to tell a mechanic of the existence of a battery disconnect switch

something like this on the CD changer cover


Last edited by z168; 04-09-2018 at 09:58 AM.
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  #103  
Old Yesterday, 04:40 AM
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My turn to take a crack at this. Been moving forward on the stereo install so battery access is going to be limited (read... non existent). With Red having a new battery freshly installed I shouldn't have to replace it for another 4 or 5 years. Buuuuut removing the negative terminal for servicing would still be necessary.

So I ordered this from Amazon a long time ago (when I was ordering other stereo gear. It works pretty well. I get the same resistance across the factory ground cable, the 2 new cables I made, and then the entire setup so there shouldn't be any issues. *crap, jinxed myself* I spent waaaaaaaaayyyy too long I'm embarrassed to say. Think it was like 5 hours. Everything just ate up time. Fabbing the bracket and then wrapping it. I hate cheap vinyl BTW. Making the cables which included desoldering the factory negative battery terminal and soldering it onto new 4awg wire. Had to break out the propane torch to accomplish that. And then running/taping/prettifying everything. Anyway the setup seems to work great, so on to the pics.

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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles)


2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)

Last edited by crystalworks; Yesterday at 12:42 PM.
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  #104  
Old Yesterday, 11:31 AM
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It's not easy to do a good job soldering heavy cables. Watch for resistance increasing in the connection after a while. I solder everything when it comes to smaller stuff but battery / starter cables are much better crimped.
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  #105  
Old Yesterday, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
It's not easy to do a good job soldering heavy cables. Watch for resistance increasing in the connection after a while. I solder everything when it comes to smaller stuff but battery / starter cables are much better crimped.
Will keep an eye on it, thanks. I crimped everything else in combo with solder but the factory ring terminal is a solder only design unfortunately. Was sure to check the resistance on everything and I tinned the bajeesus out of the new wire before inserting into the oe terminal which was also tinned. I gave it a really good pull test so we'll see how it goes. I didn't want to replace the terminal with the aftermarket audio one I have here as it would require 2 different tools to replace a battery and I do get some joy out of keeping the oe one.

I will say... Every car should come with a battery disconnect. Only had it a night and now I don't know how I every lived without it.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles)


2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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