Battery Cutoff Switch

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Purplefade

Car audio was the same way, when going for SPL you’d rattle your solder loose within just a few minutes sometimes - we crimped everything. Used to have a set of 36” crimpers to get enough pressure on 0 gauge wire! Man I miss those now that I’m rewiring my Notchback...


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Notchback? VW? Tell me you're a Kaiser fan.

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Notchback? VW? Tell me you're a Kaiser fan.

1993 Notchback Mustang - started with and sold my 87, got and sold an 88 and then bought and sold my 89 and finally - yeeeears later, ended up with a 93 that I’ll probably keep forever this time

But I do love me some Bugs too!


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[Overboost]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

BTW, good to see you again. Hadn't seen you on for a few weeks (not that I'm stalking or anything ), but figured you had some work stuff going. Congrats on those finishes btw, saw them in the other thread.

We did make one additional stop in between the 2 races in Texas and Georgia.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Overboost

We did make one additional stop in between the 2 races in Texas and Georgia.

In that case, my condolences to accompany the previous congrats. Not that I cared who won but 47-49% of the country shares your disappointment.

Thanks for the insight on connections in motorsport. I bought a crimper specifically for this job knowing I'd be crimping 1/0 gauge and 4awg. I had to rely on solder for the negative terminal unless I wanted to ditch it.

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

I had to rely on solder for the negative terminal unless I wanted to ditch it.

You said you tinned everything to the bajesus if I remember right and used a torch vs an iron - I’m guessing if you got good heat and a good melt on everything that you’ll be fine, just keep an eye on it for a few heat cycles to be sure. - not that it’s under hood getting “engine” hot, but it will warm and cool as the battery charges


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[80stech]

While you guys are wiring in your battery switches maybe run an extra + wire to somewhere you can get to it in case you lock yourself out with a dead battery. Wouldn't have to be a heavy wire, just enough to get power to get the doors open. That's on my to-do list!

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Thanks for the insight on connections in motorsport. I bought a crimper specifically for this job knowing I'd be crimping 1/0 gauge and 4awg. I had to rely on solder for the negative terminal unless I wanted to ditch it.

I use a handheld 8 ton hydraulic crimper for the battery cables. This is a nice simple tool for a perfect crimp on the heavy gauge cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Hydrau...PR4CRP8HD5X0SH

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Overboost

I use a handheld 8 ton hydraulic crimper for the battery cables. This is a nice simple tool for a perfect crimp on the heavy gauge cables.

Dangit OB you're going to have my toolbox over flowing. Hah, already picked up an epoxy gun and tips, flush cutters on your recommendation, and now I'll need to pick one of these up in the future.

In the interest of tool box space I went with one of these. One or two good whacks with the 5lb mini sledge made crimping a breeze, if slightly less elegant than the hydraulic crimper.

[Overboost]

That works just fine. I have the tool with specific dies for all gauge cables. Yours is spot on for that size.