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  #51  
Old 03-24-2015, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Why is it that everyone gets the good looking Alloy plate and I got a nasty black steel one?

With the last posting, there goes my change date theory. Maybe some had what ever was laying around at the time of build or each assembly line had different suppliers? It would be interesting to hear of other later production models had either plate at the same time.

My X5 4.8is Build date: 6/2005----Black steel
I guess you should be thankful you don't have this flimsy, tin foil aluminum plate like some of this have. You know, the one with no strength.

I suppose you could always retrofit one off a junkyard X5, but I'm guessing the 4.8iS has the steel plate for a reason. Man, that must be a PITA to put back on after taking it off. How much does it weigh?
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  #52  
Old 03-24-2015, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
It is beyond ridiculous for anyone to decide that they know more than the E53 design engineers.

I have been doing my own work for many many years. If I can take it apart I can put it back together. I have always applied the saying to know what I don't know---I never test it. There is simply no logic in not changing the bolts.
I don't think anyone is claiming that (I'm certainly not)... but I don't see there being a downside to not replacing those bolts. Again, assuming they thread back in and torque to spec. I would also recommend adding some Loc-Tite for added peace of mind. Could always check on the plate during oil changes to be sure the bolts have not backed out or sheared.

I understand your position... but the price of the bolts makes it more open to being debated. If it were <$40 to replace the bolts this would be a non-issue.
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  #53  
Old 03-24-2015, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
I guess you should be thankful you don't have this flimsy, tin foil aluminum plate like some of this have. You know, the one with no strength.

I suppose you could always retrofit one off a junkyard X5, but I'm guessing the 4.8iS has the steel plate for a reason. Man, that must be a PITA to put back on after taking it off. How much does it weigh?
When laying on your back and using one hand to tighten the nut while holding the bolt from turning, I think it weighed in just under [email protected]%!!

The factory says 13.4 LBS VS 7 LBS for the aluminum one
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  #54  
Old 03-24-2015, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
I guess you should be thankful you don't have this flimsy, tin foil aluminum plate like some of this have. You know, the one with no strength.

I suppose you could always retrofit one off a junkyard X5, but I'm guessing the 4.8iS has the steel plate for a reason. Man, that must be a PITA to put back on after taking it off. How much does it weigh?
Still waiting for ONE example of where reusing the bolts have caused any issue. Nothing yet???
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  #55  
Old 03-24-2015, 09:18 AM
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Was there a bolt failure that actually broke a bolt loosening the plate or was it improper tightening? The most likely cause was "operator error".
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  #56  
Old 03-24-2015, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Lambeau View Post
Still waiting for ONE example of where reusing the bolts have caused any issue. Nothing yet???
Just because it doesn't break, doesn't mean it was installed properly.

The purpose of the plate is for chassis stiffness. Clamping force AKA friction is what keeps the plate from rotating and flexing and adds rigidity. You're not likely to break a bolt unless it was continuously yielded each time it was retorqued.

One of the ways out is to increase the grade of the bolt and increase the clamping torque to be equivalent with the TTY fastener.
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  #57  
Old 03-24-2015, 12:22 PM
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There have been members in the NE US (NY if I recall correctly), that reported "clunking" from the front suspension after reusing the TTY plate fasteners. This was around 2 yrs ago.

The final solution to the issue was new TTY bolts & nuts.

The swaybar bushing mounts were not secured properly due to first stage torquing (40 ft/lbs), was actually being reached forcing the nut onto the deformed bolt thread. The following 90 deg (2nd stage) was actually leaving the bushing mounts loose.
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  #58  
Old 03-24-2015, 12:41 PM
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Mine is a 4.4 production date: March 2004. Aluminum plate. Re-used the bolts with "0" issues. Before re-using the bolts, I measured the threads of the bolts from the outer edge to the base with a vernier caliper. I haven't spotted a difference in OD, that's why I re-used them. On the other hand, I haven't measured the nuts (the ID). Maybe those get deformed when tightening? I dunno, they "felt" like any other "regular" nut used on these cars, where you can thread it by hand, then it won't go in any further until one uses a wrench.
Maybe it's a wrong approach, but if I would have spotted the smallest difference in OD of the threaded part of the bolt, for sure I would have purchased and used a new set of bolts.
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  #59  
Old 03-24-2015, 05:01 PM
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I wasn't aware that metallurgical changes were visible to the naked eye. You learn something every day on this board...
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  #60  
Old 03-24-2015, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ants_oz View Post
I wasn't aware that metallurgical changes were visible to the naked eye. You learn something every day on this board...
On a stretch bolt I believe you can measure the difference in OD, pending on the thickness of the bolt. Vernier caliper is not naked eye. Mine has digital reading and 3 digits after the comma. Not sure where the naked eye is coming in.
But more powah to you bro'.
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