DIY Solution to M54-M52TU CCV problems

[cn90]

Originally Posted by Sroor9001

I think there is pilot modification only hose from vent in ccv to the back of the manifold and you got same effect of vacum
I think it's done by 50s kid on e46 on YouTube

@Sroor9001, I know all about those "O2Pilot" mod and "50sKid" on youtube. I want to do a definitive mod and am glad I did this mod. Once you have all the parts (hoses, clamps, Tee), you can do this on 30 min. Very very easy mod.
I am now 500 miles AFTER the CCV Mod, zero oil consumption (used to be 1qt/400 miles).

@all: re CCV vs PCV. Both systems accomplish the same goals:
a. CC blow-by gets routed back to the Intake Manifold ---> combustion chamber.
b. Oil returned to the sump.

The method is slightly different on how the gas is routed back to the Intake Manifold:

1. CCV: the spring/diaphragm has a pre-set value, once the vacuum difference exceeds ___ in Hg (let's say hypothetically, it is 10 inches Hg), the diaphragm opens.
- Let's say at idle, the I.M. vacuum is -15 inches Hg, CC is - 2 inches Hg, now the vacuum difference is > pre-set value of 10 inches Hg: the diaphragm opens, allowing blow-by gas to enter I.M.
- So, depending on how much CC gas is being produced, the diaphragm opens On-Off to allow air ---> I.M.

- FAUCET ANALOGY: similar to you turn on the faucet: "On" and "Off".


2. PCV: there is always a flow, but controlled by the spring/pintle design.
Note the difference between Vacuum vs Flow Rate, they are 2 different things.
- The vacuum difference controls the position of the spring/pintle system.

- FAUCET ANALOGY: similar to you leave faucet "On" just a hair so there is some dripping, sometimes you turn the faucet up a bit to get more flow, and turn it down to a slow dripping flow.

Japanese cars such as Honda still use PCV and emission is as good as other mfg's.
Personally, I like PCV system better b/c it is easier to maintain.

[Sroor9001]

Originally Posted by cn90

@Sroor9001, I know all about those "O2Pilot" mod and "50sKid" on youtube. I want to do a definitive mod and am glad I did this mod. Once you have all the parts (hoses, clamps, Tee), you can do this on 30 min. Very very easy mod.
I am now 500 miles AFTER the CCV Mod, zero oil consumption (used to be 1qt/400 miles).

@all: re CCV vs PCV. Both systems accomplish the same goals:
a. CC blow-by gets routed back to the Intake Manifold ---> combustion chamber.
b. Oil returned to the sump.

The method is slightly different on how the gas is routed back to the Intake Manifold:

1. CCV: the spring/diaphragm has a pre-set value, once the vacuum difference exceeds ___ in Hg (let's say hypothetically, it is 10 inches Hg), the diaphragm opens.
- Let's say at idle, the I.M. vacuum is -15 inches Hg, CC is - 2 inches Hg, now the vacuum difference is > pre-set value of 10 inches Hg: the diaphragm opens, allowing blow-by gas to enter I.M.
- So, depending on how much CC gas is being produced, the diaphragm opens On-Off to allow air ---> I.M.

- FAUCET ANALOGY: similar to you turn on the faucet: "On" and "Off".


2. PCV: there is always a flow, but controlled by the spring/pintle design.
Note the difference between Vacuum vs Flow Rate, they are 2 different things.
- The vacuum difference controls the position of the spring/pintle system.

- FAUCET ANALOGY: similar to you leave faucet "On" just a hair so there is some dripping, sometimes you turn the faucet up a bit to get more flow, and turn it down to a slow dripping flow.

Japanese cars such as Honda still use PCV and emission is as good as other mfg's.
Personally, I like PCV system better b/c it is easier to maintain.

Thanks I did this but returned back to ccv cause I got leak on valve cover gasket and oil filter housing so I've bought ccv
Tried 2 pcv valve got leaked any way I'll do oil catch can if I didn't get ccv which I preferred no vacum than extreme vacum
I hope everything is running well for you if it's too cold right now I hope my ccv withstand at least 2-3 years

[80stech]

Very good theory! That does make some sense. I think also though there is another factor involved that has been addressed by some of the guys doing the mod. I think the BMW engineers got a little bit sloppy on the design of the valve cover baffle and in the way the vent tube comes off the valve cover thinking that the oil seperator would take care of any oil that got sucked in to the CCVC. By doing the mod (depending on how you go about it) there is less chance of the little bit of oil that collects on the bottom of the valve cover tube to getting sucked out.

[cn90]

Long-term report on 2006 X5 3.0i 6sp MT...

- Nov. 2016: 122K miles: oil consumption ---> 1qt/400 miles.

- Aug. 2020: 135K miles: oil consumption ---> nothing at 5K oil change interval.

FYI: if you remove the PCV valve and connect the hoses directly using a simple metal reducer, the crankcase vacuum will be excessive and you will hear a loud hissing vacuum noise (very scary sound), been there done that and posted in this thread. So far, I am very happy with this mod. This mod using the Duralast PCV valve definitely increases the vacuum to the "correct" amount.

I will remove the Duralast PCV valve for inspection and photo for the group soon.

In many cars, this kind of PCV valve *should be* replaced every ___ yr/miles.
Does anyone here know the proper interval for let's say Duralast generic PCV valve as in this mod?

[80stech]

@fifty150 try running with oil level at the low mark.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by 80stech

@fifty150 try running with oil level at the low mark.

Curious why you think that might have an effect?

[docnabimmer]

Originally Posted by 80stech

@fifty150 try running with oil level at the low mark.

I would be curious why as well?

[docnabimmer]

Originally Posted by cn90

Long-term report on 2006 X5 3.0i 6sp MT...

- Nov. 2016: 122K miles: oil consumption ---> 1qt/400 miles.

- Aug. 2020: 135K miles: oil consumption ---> nothing at 5K oil change interval.

FYI: if you remove the PCV valve and connect the hoses directly using a simple metal reducer, the crankcase vacuum will be excessive and you will hear a loud hissing vacuum noise (very scary sound), been there done that and posted in this thread. So far, I am very happy with this mod. This mod using the Duralast PCV valve definitely increases the vacuum to the "correct" amount.

I will remove the Duralast PCV valve for inspection and photo for the group soon.

In many cars, this kind of PCV valve *should be* replaced every ___ yr/miles.
Does anyone here know the proper interval for let's say Duralast generic PCV valve as in this mod?

thanks Cn90 ,-about the PCV - i have no idea what the interval is but , if it was me i would replace it yearly cause its inexpensive and easy to access and RR.Are you still running same set up that uses the 2 ports on the manifold?
wonder if Bave39 still around....

@fifty -thank you for the input , hope you sort that oil consumption soon

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by docnabimmer

thanks Cn90 ,-about the PCV - i have no idea what the interval is but , if it was me i would replace it yearly cause its inexpensive and easy to access and RR.Are you still running same set up that uses the 2 ports on the manifold?
wonder if Bave39 still around....

@fifty -thank you for the input , hope you sort that oil consumption soon

Thanks doc so do I. I'm going to let it go a little longer and see what happens. If it keeps up my last ditch effort is to try the ERR treatment to ungunk/unstick the ring packs.

[80stech]

As far as the freezing/moisture problem I think of it this way, The crankcase is closed so it is filled with moisture saturated combustion gases. The moisture ends up forming dropplets, which get seperated in the cyclone oil seperator, which ironically works much better seperating heavey moisture droplets than it does oil, and returned to the crankcase. The CCCV can only get rid of moisture vapour not droplets, so the only way to reduce the moisture is to let in a little unsaturated atmosphere to absorb it and let it get sucked through the seperater and into the intake as vapour.