Remove front clip and pull motor?

[andrewwynn]

I have a few thoughts what are causing your woes one the reluctor ring is not as tight as it needed to be in it moved and it’s just off by some degrees.2 the Vanos was not turned all the way counterclockwise when you set timing and three there is an oil blockage on that bank say the check valve is stuck or backwards. (I don’t remember if that’s actually possible)

It is as you know a lot of work to get the vanos out. Did you redo the vanos seals?

[TriX5]

I replaced the Vanos seals, so yes, that is a potential source of worry. I have a spare ring and I might just exchange the one in bank 2 again. The check-valves are put in with a threaded bar from the front and AFAIK it is not possible to reverse them. Will look again if I can ascertain the position of the reluctor ring through the inspection ports but I feel that the Bank 2 valve cover needs to come off to be sure of anything.

If it is not the reluctor ring, once I am in there, I might as well take the upper and lower timing covers off and check everything again. It is quite a bit of work but at least the engine is clean and I know where everything is at this stage....when I started it was a mystery to me what I was working on.....

Nevertheless, it wont be happening before Feb 7 as I have to catch a flight this afternoon and deal with some stuff in Europe, one of which is getting my e70 shipped back to the USA.


PS: My spark plugs didn't mysteriously change location....they are only there in the picture to cap the injector holes

[andrewwynn]

For reluctor comparison

[TriX5]

Checked again using the inspection holes and it seems that when I can get a pin through bank 1 looking through the oil cap opening, I cannot get anything through on Bank 2 until I turn CW quite a bit more. I wonder if my alignment kit was off as I would not think I forgot to torque the reluctor disk properly.

So, in any case I need to remove the Valve covers to get eyes on this properly which is in two weeks or so. Thanks again for the pointers and pictures.

[andrewwynn]

Do you remember doing the step with continuity testing the vanos where you set it to zero? If you forgot or some way the vanos wasn’t zero’d out, I think you could get the Beauvoir you are getting.

Think of it like this; if the vanos was advanced 20° when you set timing, the dme would think 20 is zero so if It called for zero you’d get -20°.

Does the real-time reading of cam position change when you hit the throttle and how does it compare to the other bank?

[CapeX5]

Andrew, can you go through the process of where you found the actual/specified menu on the Foxwell? I went to do that today on my N62 and couldn't find those menus. I saw the "actual" field and monitored that but not specified. I am using a 510. Not sure what yours was.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

More than once in the past year somebody posted on xo that their reluctor wheel had gotten loose enough to move from its set position.

You can see the bank one wheel through the oil fill on m62 but I think you can check either bank for the wheel being loose by exploring through the cps port.

I initially hooked up the timing guide incorrectly the first time I set the timing on M62, did you take pictures?

I believe the solenoids are positioned with pwm if you have a DMM with duty cycle like higher end fluke you can confirm the signals make sense before attempting to remove them.

FYI don’t have to remove much coolant to remove the upper level houses maybe a pint no more than a quart.

I changed an aux coolant pump recently and I let out maybe a pint then when I disconnected the hoses I just lifted the end quickly to make it stop spilling. (I also put some plastic over the alternator to prevent coolant dribbling in there)

The most logical way to access the operating condition of the solenoid is to swap and see if the error swaps banks so that’s what I would do.



I took these last night to show my m54 requested vs actually cam positions. It’s extremely helpful to verify the cam can track the computer’s request.

[andrewwynn]

I use the nt510. There is a vanos menu.

Usually there are a couple different engine sub menus. If you don’t see vanos try a different dme menu



Took this today


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[TriX5]

At the end of January traveled to Europe thinking it would be a 2 week trip at best and a 4 week trip at the outside......just got back after nearly 7 weeks! The Covid virus was catching up to where we were staying but had not quite reached the area where we were renting a cottage in a small village. Last Monday we finally picked up the paperwork we needed. Also I had located a company to return my x5d to the states. Dropped the car at their terminal last week, so the timing worked but my wife was getting anxious about rejoining our kids states-side.

Yesterday the jet-lag had me up early and I decided to have a better look at the e53. My son drove it a couple of times while I was away and he wants me to get it ready as a DD for him. I removed the stiffening plate so that I could pin the flywheel at TDC and disconnected the wiring so I could lift the fuel rail. Unfortunately I noted three leaks, one of the screen wash pumps leaks (no big issue), there is an intermittant leak on the upper coolant hose (the spider attached to the thermostat, again not a big problem) and I think the front diff leaks from the seal on the driver's side (ugh, don't relish pulling the drive shaft again to replace the seal...).

But first the CEL issue. First removed the valve cover on Bank 1. As expected, on pulling the Vanos CCW, the hole in the reluctor lined up fine with the hole in timing cover.

Then removed Bank 2. Pulling the Vanos CCW I noted it was a little stiffer, I guess since it has not really been regulating the timing, the seal is still tight. Nevertheless, the timing lined up just fine.

After staring at it for a while wondering what else could be wrong, I noticed the lobe of the reluctor, where the hole is for the timing kit, was pushed back and instead of a 1/8 gap with the sensor it was probably more like 3/16 or more. I have no idea how it got bent but on bending it back I noted that the material is very soft. Anything coming in to contact with it while I was prepping the engine/trans for re-installing might have bent it. I straightened it as best I could and put the valve cover back on.

Today I have to put Bank 1 valve cover back and see if that fixed the CEL issue.

[andrewwynn]

Bent ruluctor wheel will absolutely confuse the CPS.

[TriX5]

The reluctor plate was in the correct position but not very tight. I straightened the reluctor and turned the Vanos fully CCW. I reset the reluctor plate with an allen key in the upper timing cover.

However, now I still get code 33. I attach a picture of the live values with the motor running. Is the only way to reset this reluctor plate to take the upper timing cover off and re-attach the timing jig on bank 2? It is not that hard to do but seems odd that using the hole on the timing cover is not doing the trick.

EDIT:
After hunting around on various websites and looking at live data on some other M62tu engines I have to review my conclusions. First: Code 33 is Bank 1, not 2. Second: Live data usually shows values close to 0 as does my bank 2 data. So I am now wondering why I have code 33 and is the 2.5 degree angle the problem on bank 1?

This is turning out to be quite vexing. I should probably recheck Bank 1 timing to be sure it is completely correct. I did not really focus on B1 as I was hunting for a much worse problem on B2. But now that I am focusing more on the code 33, it seems I am hunting for yet another issue on Bank 1.....