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  #81  
Old 10-30-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriX5 View Post
the kit I purchased is quite complete
Sorry if I missed it - which kit did you get?

Nice work!
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  #82  
Old 10-30-2019, 09:28 PM
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Location: Maryland
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Getting close to ready for rolling the motor/trans back under the car.

I bought a kit off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As to the reasons for this job: I have to admit that I can't really figure out where the oil leakage came from. Most of the rubber seals are very brittle and the o-rings are also brittle. The oil in the spark plug openings clearly comes from the valve cover seals but the mess on the front of the engine has no clear single source. The chain guide wear was minimal in my view. The Vanos seals were hardened and refreshing the Vanos was necessary. So a lot of good reasons but nothing stands out overwhelmingly as near failure.

At present the trans is once again mated with the engine and the torq conv attached to the flywheel. Added fluid as much as it will take without the engine running. Put a new flex disk in the front drive shaft and cleaned/greased the splines. Also refreshed the TCase fluid.

Tomorrow the timing covers will go on and I ordered a new Crankshaft bolt for the vibration damper hub. I bought a piece of 3/8" rubber hose for the filter drain line, I don't feel like replacing the whole assembly if a piece of hose is about 5% of the price..... By Friday evening I expect to have it ready to wheel the whole assembly under the car.

Pics are of the sub-frame coming back on the cart that will carry the whole assembly back under the car. Second pic shows the engine mounted on the sub-frame. I will add a picture later of the whole thing when it is all together and going under the chassis.

The ABS module should be back on Saturday. Parts for the front suspension came this morning. I am thinking about opening the inner boots so I can pop the axles into the diff and repack the inner joints later.

The biggest challenge will be reassembling the front of the car. It is a long time since I took it off and my recollection of that is sketchy....
Attached Images
  
__________________
2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD sadly...
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (shipped to Europe)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Other hardware:
2005 Tundra crew cab, son's DD and weekend hauler
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler

Last edited by TriX5; 10-30-2019 at 10:12 PM.
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  #83  
Old 11-10-2019, 10:29 PM
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At last, its back where it belongs.

These last few weeks have been productive despite a quick trip to RI on Fri/Sat. College tours for my youngest. Another 1000 miles on my Gen-1 Tundra....

This morning I put the new lower control arms on, after last week completing the engine and joining it with the transmission (new flex disk went in at the same time). Putting the lower timing cover on is not a funny job and I recommend buying a 12" (thin) joint compound knife to keep the gasket down whilst sliding the cover in place. Otherwise it tends to come up when trying to put the cover in place, you have to slide it on to the front of the crankshaft whilst moving toward the engine.....

Also I found it necessary to line up the fly wheel with the torque converter so that you can put at least one bolt in before turning the engine for the second bolt. With a paint marker I marked the vibration damper on the top when I put the first bolt in and turned 90 degrees using the mark for each successive bolt which made it simple to line things up. Torquing up the new jesus-bolt (holding the vibration damper hub) was easier than expected with the 3/4" socket and breaker I purchased to undo it.

I put new inner boots on the axles (the Rein kits come with the wrong grease, pick up some inner CV joint grease from your closest Honda dealer) and filled the front diff with fresh gear oil. Also put about 6 or 7 liters of engine oil. Latter was good as I had not torqued the banjo bolt from the separator enough and it had a very small leak which materialized in the two days I was on the road.

I changed the coolant hoses behind the engine, these being the heating circuit, which are hard to get to with the engine in place.

So today I wheeled the engine back under the car, a bit of a tight fit to get it in between the flanges of the frame rails....now the engine is back in with the 6 bolts holding the sub-frame and a further 6 holding the rear transmission mount. Still need to attach the rear drive shaft properly.

Tomorrow I need to torque the bolts, put the A/C compressor on, put the steering knuckle in place, put the brakes and wheels back. Then reassemble the oil filter, coolant tank, etc. Worst will be tracing the wring back. Then comes the radiator and hoses, setting the fuel rail back on the engine. Then finally it should be ready for adding fresh fuel and (only a 1/4 tank in it now), firing it up.... I suspect that startup will be towards end of the week. (I have to do a few chores on the other vehicles including a new exhaust for the Gen-1 Tundra which has two holes and is developing a deep baritone)
Attached Images
   
__________________
2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner
2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD sadly...
2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (shipped to Europe)

Hmmmm, love those black headliners!

Other hardware:
2005 Tundra crew cab, son's DD and weekend hauler
2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm)
2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler
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