Remove front clip and pull motor?

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Fish71

Mind as well do the chain guide rails while your in there LOL! If you need timing tools or something else let me know. I should be done with them in the next couple weeks.(hopefuely)

I didn't think that was an issue with the N62... just the M60/M62? Was going to buy the valve stem tool that does not require timing the engine. I have timing tool for the m42/m50/m52/m54... but not the V8's.

[Fish71]

Oh not sure if it is the same tool or not.

[EH6TunerDaniel]

So, you dont really need a lift to pull the motor out, it just looks like he did it that way to make it a little easier on himself. You could do it with jack stands, but I think you are way over complicating what you need to do. What other maintenance items are you looking to do while the motor is out. There is plenty of room to do the TCGs with the motor in the car, and to pull it you are looking at taking apart suspension, taking off exhaust, the front sway bar and protection plate (Which is kind of a bitch because they use free spinning bolts on the back), and having to remove all of the exhaust aside from the mufflers.

I can see why you would want to remove the motor if you were going to the level that stunt did, but I dont think you really NEED to.

[TriX5]

Thanks for pitching in your thoughts. I realize that just the VC/TCG is not sufficient reason to pull the motor.

As I said, there are some other things to do and some would require to split the AT from the engine. With the whole assembly out of the car it would be so much easier to do the TCG and correct the other stuff at the same time. It would also give me a chance to reseal the oil sumps.

The front bumper cover has to come off anyway and I want to (finally) put my modified headlights in. The ABS module needs to be overhauled and some of the hoses seems to be sweating oil rather heavily. In the rear I need to replace the lower control arm bushings.

So, I am thinking about getting all that over with in one attempt that may have the car on jack stands for a few weeks.

[EH6TunerDaniel]

Go ahead and pull it, it won't hurt you. Since you will also have the trans off its a good time to replace the rear main seal and the 2 coolant gaskets in there.

Invest in some good sized jack stands, 4 of them and a jack that can go pretty high if you don't already have those.

[jdstrickland]

The shocking thing to me is that a timing chain needs service at 125k miles. I'm on my 5th BMW, two with the M50, two with the M52, and 1 with the M54 (the M54 is a recent acquisition) and I've never even considered that the timing chain needs attention.

One of my M50s, and both of the M52s, were(are) well into 200k miles. I have an M50 today that has 160k miles and I have no reason to think the timing chain needs attention.

What makes you think you need a timing chain?

[Fish71]

M62 is a totally different animal. Replacing the guides in my truck with 102K. M50/52/54 are the 6 cylinders and do not have the same problem as the M62 V8.

[TriX5]

Not the timing chain (hopefully). The guides are the problem. The engine runs very well and I would hate for it to blow up just because the guides let go.

Already did the transmission overhaul. But the valve covers are leaking and the smell of hot motor oil is sometimes quite strong.

Nevertheless, it is still too cold to tackle this. Will probably wait for April.

Traveling to Toronto tonight..... ****** -13 at night, snow on Tuesday, hmmm.

[TriX5]

Made a start today and got the front bumper cover off. Note the nasty ding in the underride bar.... I think this has been like this for quite a while. The radiator looks crunched too but is holding.

[TriX5]

Decided to try and work at least one hour each day on this project.

So this evening took off the brake cooling ducts and the wiring that comes through under the headlights. Got the inner bumper off and the underride bar as well as the two plastic pieces that are either side of the radiator (the two "dogears" in the above picture). The underride bar is badly bent and I hope my hydraulic press can straighten it up without it becoming a mess....

There are 6 plastic fasteners to remove. Two in the leading air of the brake ducts. Two on the back of the inner bumper bar holding the dogears on and two more in plain sight just above the screws holding the bumper cover.

A couple of weeks ago the SES light came on. I need to get the software going (from Romania) and connect the pc to the car so I can read the codes before I start disassembling stuff under the hood. Tomorrow I guess I can still remove some more trim and the headlights.