Stage 2 tune: My SCR, DPF, EGR and Urea delete Journey - Page 19

seattle · #**181** 05-03-2018, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blatant

I will then remove the T and join the two lines which were originally plugged into the T vacuum joint.

That's correct to do it. EGR kit would normally come with vacuum join.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blatant

For the EGR cooler on the DPF, the vacuum line that runs to that comes off a manifold. My plan for that was to plug the line and tie it somewhere.

Does anyone else have a different solution for the vacuum routing for the egr cooler deletes?

I don't think there's any vacuum for AGR cooler (dpf-side EGR cooler)
Just inlet and outlet for coolant..

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blatant · #**182** 05-03-2018, 05:39 PM

I may be referring to the part incorrectly. Attached the open vacuum line I have which is attached to the agr. It has a vacuum solenoid attached to it

seattle · #**183** 05-03-2018, 07:12 PM

Still not sure what you are talking about, to be honest. Can you point on the photo ?

blatant · #**184** 05-04-2018, 06:42 AM

That's a perfect photo, Thank you. For the AGR you can see the actual AFT end of the AGR is bolted to the DPF, the Front end mounts via the small vband clamp to a vacuum solenoid which bolts to the turbo.

I removed the entire AGR and the associated Vacuum valve/solenoid and had the vacuum line left over.
The vacuum line comes off the vacuum manifold under the intake manifold. So I had to plug this line for the car to run satisfactorily. I did this last night and have put 30 or so miles on the car without reduced power mode.

blatant · #**185** 05-04-2018, 07:01 AM

Marked up pic

seattle · #**186** 05-04-2018, 10:35 PM

Yes, I also removed the vacuum hose completely and placed a sealing cap at the source (drivers side towards the back).

My delete originally started as turbo replacement (leaking oil really bad). My large turbo came off of 335d. They do not have low pressure EGR cooler, so I did not have to deal with removing the actuator and just capped the orphan port at the source.

Stockx5 · #**187** 05-06-2018, 02:03 PM

I just capped it wherever it's convenient.

I put a screw into the vacuum line end.

sunny_j · #**188** 05-28-2018, 03:48 PM

does anyone know what can be causing this rattling sound? it started a day after doing the egr, dpf, scr and urea tank delete.

it's slightly audible in park, goes away in neutral, in D I can hear it at idle and when accelerating to 2k rpm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bfpzvaq38...15127.mp4?dl=0

seattle · #**189** 05-28-2018, 09:57 PM

Seems to be based on engine speed rather than load. As if rattling under certain engine vibration. Is everything tightened?

sunny_j · #**190** 05-28-2018, 10:56 PM

Today I loosened the V-band clamp and two clamps connecting the new flex pipe to the long pipe. After tightening the clamps again no change. With a stethoscope the noise was heard when I put it in the doc of the buzzken pipe. Then as I went down the flex pipe the noise became less and less. I doubt it's the motor mount or subframe because that was loosened as well.

What's strange is it didnt make any noises the first day, second day it was very faint and when turning, third day i heard it more then turning, fourth day it became fairly loud.

I also checked to make the sure on top of the pipe is not touching the black tab on the transfer case subframe and the orange hanger as per buzzken's advice. He doesn't know what's happening either

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