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  #1  
Old 09-29-2019, 11:56 AM
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Help! Engine malfunction:reduced power. stuck in Chicago

anyone in Chicago have a BMW scantool? I just bought the car yesterday (2010 X5M 60k miles), got the error driving it home to Michigan so turned back around and will be staying here in Chicago and taking it back to dealer Monday morning. I was hoping to find out what's wrong in case dealer (independent dealer, not BMW) tries to just clear the error and tell me it's fixed. In Chicago until Monday so I can drive it to anywhere in Chicago anytime today if anyone is around/willing to help out? Any insight or advice is also greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Also, anyone know buyback laws in Chicago? I'm worried this is just the beginning and just want them to take the car back.
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  #2  
Old 09-29-2019, 12:10 PM
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Crappy situation. I hope they stand by the sale... But if you signed the "as is" dealer disclosure (required here in Texas), it might be tough sailing.

This does highlight the 100% requirement for a good ppi prior to purchase and/or bringing a scan tool (foxwell or equivalent) to buy any modern BMW. That advice doesn't help you any, but might help someone in the future. Again, good luck. I hope it's a "stand up" dealership.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
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2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
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  #3  
Old 09-29-2019, 12:40 PM
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Thank you. It came with a 3 month/3000 Mile warranty but I think it's thru a third party. Just drove the car for the first time today after the message last night and no issues. No messages. Took it to AutoZone because that's probably better than nothing, but they didn't find any codes (probably need actual BMW scan tool). This makes me even more nervous because now when I take it back tomorrow there's nothing wrong with it. Not sure what to do at this point
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Old 09-29-2019, 12:58 PM
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The BMW specific codes will be stored regardless of any warning lights. Autozone only has access to the OBD2 codes thrown or pending.

Try to find a scan tool or maybe pay an independent whatever it costs to scan it and get a full print out. Might be your only options at this point. You can then go into the dealer who sold it with a printout of the error codes.

When I recently purchased a 535d for my father at a small dealer out of state we drove out there and I brought my Carly dongle and Foxwell. Was able to point out some errors before purchase that the dealer corrected (low refrigerant in AC system and something else). No warning lights were thrown by these errors. Dealer recharged and corrected other issue and we drove the ~1300 miles home. Turned out to be a leak in the condenser which we split the cost of replacing here because the low refrigerant issue was known before sale. It's a used car so we couldn't/wouldn't ask them to pay for the entire repair cost. They might refuse to pay any of it. Dealer was good about it splitting though, didn't hesitate, and we gave them a great review.

^Again, none of that helps you unfortunately. Fingers crossed for you the dealer is willing to try to find out what the problem is and help you at least get the vehicle derivable home. Does the dealer in question have good google/yelp reviews? If so, it might help to gently mention their reviews as the reason you went with them and that you were also planning to leave a similar review after the purchase. Don't say you are going to blast them or anything, just mention that you had planned on leaving reviews following the purchase. In this day and age... internet reviews can be very important to a business.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles)


2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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  #5  
Old 09-29-2019, 01:25 PM
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That's a good idea, thank you! They do have a good review score (actually was one reason I was comfortable enough to buy from them in the first place) but you're right about not threatening a bad review. Hopefully I can find a shop open today or someone with a scan tool to read out what's wrong before I go in tomorrow.
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  #6  
Old 09-29-2019, 01:30 PM
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Common issue in N63 and S63 engines with 60k+. Most of the time it's an easy fix:
Starting in order of what to check first:
Vaccum lines
Intake hoses
Spark plugs
Coil packs
CCV lines
Wastegates
Diverter valves
Pressure converters
Injectors

9 times out 10 it's either the plugs or coils after any possible vacuum leaks or pressure leaks have been eliminated. Get yourself the foxwell nt510 with the BMW software or bimmergeeks pro tools so you can know exactly what's going on...if it's under warranty great ..if not be prepared for the M tax....for example, you can replace all 8 spark plug and coils for less then 400 yourself and it's super easy to do (coils can be removes with just your finger!!!). But the dealer will charge you 1400 dollars.....
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Old 09-29-2019, 02:54 PM
ard ard is offline
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You bought it without an inspection?????????


The only people that should do that on a 10 year old V8 M motor are BMW mechanics. And they'd have a scan tool.


Dont mean to be harsh, but this can be a very very very expensive car to own. Having a 3m/3k warranty is better than nothing, but it doesnt replace an inspection- oil leaks, seals, internal stuff. Heck it could exclude any 'pre-existing condition'!!!! Wouldnt that suck?.. sounds like you dont even have an actual policy, just a line item on a bill of sale.



Hope you find a local Chicago scan tool today.


Glad you found Xoutpost. Time to post was a few weeks ago, no?

GL


Edit: ill post over on Bimmerfest in the e0 forum

Last edited by ard; 09-30-2019 at 02:12 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-29-2019, 06:21 PM
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Sophisticated redneck,
thank you for your help! If they don't take the car back I'll start going thru those when I get it home and hopefully that'll fix it. I do all my own work and have some experience with BMW so hopefully it won't end up costing a ton.

Ard,
yes I bought it without an inspection and yes that was really stupid of me. Probably one of the dumbest things I've ever done The warranty is a full powertrain warranty (but maybe I'm being naieve? I've never had to use a warranty before so I don't know) saying it covers everything inside the engine/trans/diff/drive shaft etc for the 3mo/3k mile

Also I found a shop that had a scan tool and found 2f24(charge air, cooling system) and 30ff (pressure control boost) going to start researching those now

Also a friend of a friend is a lawyer here in Chicago and there's an addendum that I signed that would allow me to return the car if it has a powertrain issue in the first 15 days? So hopefully I'll have a case to return it.

Also Ard thank you for sharing this post. Much appreciated!

I'm so thankful for all your guys help!


Edit: from what I'm seeing online maybe a wastegate broke off? I'm having the same problem as this guy. "Engine malfunction: reduced power" Error comes on at highway speeds only. Goes off after car restart

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...topics/1178497

Last edited by Haneifk; 09-29-2019 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 09-30-2019, 12:36 AM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haneifk View Post
Sophisticated redneck,
thank you for your help! If they don't take the car back I'll start going thru those when I get it home and hopefully that'll fix it. I do all my own work and have some experience with BMW so hopefully it won't end up costing a ton.

Ard,
yes I bought it without an inspection and yes that was really stupid of me. Probably one of the dumbest things I've ever done The warranty is a full powertrain warranty (but maybe I'm being naieve? I've never had to use a warranty before so I don't know) saying it covers everything inside the engine/trans/diff/drive shaft etc for the 3mo/3k mile

Also I found a shop that had a scan tool and found 2f24(charge air, cooling system) and 30ff (pressure control boost) going to start researching those now

Also a friend of a friend is a lawyer here in Chicago and there's an addendum that I signed that would allow me to return the car if it has a powertrain issue in the first 15 days? So hopefully I'll have a case to return it.

Also Ard thank you for sharing this post. Much appreciated!

I'm so thankful for all your guys help!


Edit: from what I'm seeing online maybe a wastegate broke off? I'm having the same problem as this guy. "Engine malfunction: reduced power" Error comes on at highway speeds only. Goes off after car restart

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...topics/1178497

it isnt a 'cooling system' fault- both are related to boost and boost control. As I am sure your research has shown, this can be nothing or a big something.


Here's the thing.... if this is a low mile, meticulous maintained car that just happened to throw a code, thats one thing.


If this car has had issues, has been worked on, modded, abused...people have tried to fix it, finally it got reset and sold...and you just found these two codes, that is a WAY different thing.


You have NO way of knowing which. Assume they are lying until you can prove that assumption wrong.


Be very very careful. The safest thing is to bail, return it. Leave it.



They will offer to look into it, maybe fix it... but there is nthing that can do that can clarify HOW the car got to the state it is in. THAT is the challenge. Indeed, they may be controlling the mechanic in this process, so you really are a bit hamstrung. (and if they are letting you fix the car, and you are on the hook for getting the money back from the 'warranty' company that is a bad deal as well.)


Dont fall into the trap of thinking "if I just figure out what these two codes mean, I can fix it and drive it home"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy82jpb2kbw
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  #10  
Old 09-30-2019, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haneifk View Post
Sophisticated redneck,
thank you for your help! If they don't take the car back I'll start going thru those when I get it home and hopefully that'll fix it. I do all my own work and have some experience with BMW so hopefully it won't end up costing a ton.

Ard,
yes I bought it without an inspection and yes that was really stupid of me. Probably one of the dumbest things I've ever done The warranty is a full powertrain warranty (but maybe I'm being naieve? I've never had to use a warranty before so I don't know) saying it covers everything inside the engine/trans/diff/drive shaft etc for the 3mo/3k mile

Also I found a shop that had a scan tool and found 2f24(charge air, cooling system) and 30ff (pressure control boost) going to start researching those now

Also a friend of a friend is a lawyer here in Chicago and there's an addendum that I signed that would allow me to return the car if it has a powertrain issue in the first 15 days? So hopefully I'll have a case to return it.

Also Ard thank you for sharing this post. Much appreciated!

I'm so thankful for all your guys help!


Edit: from what I'm seeing online maybe a wastegate broke off? I'm having the same problem as this guy. "Engine malfunction: reduced power" Error comes on at highway speeds only. Goes off after car restart

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...topics/1178497
Happy to help. You have a bug hunt on your hands...Basically the error code is telling you the computer is looking for a specific boost target and its not getting it...That can be caused by about a dozen different things....from leaky vacuum tubes and CCV lines, to bad wastegates, actuators, sensors, etc..so you have some work to do...

Recommend you start with the easiest first to start narrowing the list :
Check and double check and then check once more all of your CCV lines and vacuum lines. The CCV lines are particularly nasty...they are a corrugated plastic and can operate fine when idling, hiding a crack in them that opens up only under boost. They also house special 2 way check valves that can wear out....

Then check your wastegates. Being worn at 60K is about 40K premature of when they usually go and indicative that this car had the hell driven out of it if it turns out to be them.

The bushings in the wastegates normally become worn out normally around 100K and can give the 30ff error as they will no longer fully close. You can actually adjust it so they close and get another 20-30k out of it before they become so worn they need to be rebuilt.

To do this, grab a hand held vacuum pump (like used for bleeding brakes) and attach to the wastegate actuator. at -10psi the wastegates should be firmly closed. If you can still move them by hand then adjust the control rod. If you cant get it tight at -10psi then you have no choice but to rebuild.

If the wastegates turn out to be ok, then next check your diverter valves and pressure regulators. With the foxwell NT510, you can monitor both the left and right side boost levels. This will help point you in the right direction if you are getting a large variance between both turbos boost levels

You can also monitor your intake air temps, possible issue with your intercoolers cooling too. but focus on the 30ff code first...this is a complicated machine....any rig with 5 water pumps (Yes 5!) will be.....Good luck and let us know how it turns out

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 09-30-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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