cat converter p0420 p0430 misfire p0300 p0301 injector p0202 disa

[ard]

I dont think anyone has 'remanufactured' one of these.


You got scammed by someone buffing up a used injector and selling them.


And how much time did that save you?

[brokenbim]

Originally Posted by ard

I dont think anyone has 'remanufactured' one of these.


You got scammed by someone buffing up a used injector and selling them.


And how much time did that save you?

The thing is I then moved the new injector to cylinder 1. So the #2cylinder now has an original injector in it. The code is still saying P0202 PowerTrain Confirmed Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 2

[pshovest]

Circuit/Open means the DME couldn't detect current in the injector circuit. Check injector connector for damage and wire continuity back to DME. Confirm both injector pins show 12v w/ignition on while connected. With connector removed, only one pin should have 12v.

[ard]

Do you know how to check voltages and continuity (using schematics from newtis,info) all the way from the DME out the the injector??????????


If all you are doing is replacing parts and hoping you eventually get it right, thats gonna be painful. I have RARELY seen DMEs just 'go bad. Sure it can happen...and if folks are msessng with programing and swapping in and out, more likely. But until your wiring is verified inch by inch, im not there

[brokenbim]

No I have barely any money in this so far.(spark plugs, some used oem coils and injector..) Whoever owned this before me was having the same issue and thats why they sold it Im sure. They broke all the injector harness not taking clips off and many other amateur things found...

It had no codes when I bought it from dealer. I drove it 350 miles and then got a 301,302,300,420,430. I fixed air leak in the resonator by the maf sensor. Disa valve and valvetronic motor also had air and oil leak.

All the codes then went away except for the 301. Switched coils and code did not change. So I then removed fuel rail and cleaned all injectors. The first injector was clogged and sparked for no reason while spraying. I then swapped that 1st injector with the 2nd injector and then received the 202 code which i never had before. That was proof enough for me that the injector was bad. I then got a new used injector and put it in the #1 spot and now still have the 202 code.

I tried and cant even get a testlight to light up 12v in the unhooked injector wire harness with the key on....I did check all injectors ohms and they were consistent at 12.7 i think. I have an appointment at a good garage this monday. Even if i figured out the new 202 code, I will still be stuck on the 301 code...

Thanks for trying...

[pshovest]

Originally Posted by brokenbim

........... I cant even get a testlight to light up 12v in the unhooked injector wire harness with the key on....

Are you measuring from connector pin to ground?
Do any of the injector connectors have 12v?

[brokenbim]

Originally Posted by pshovest

Are you measuring from connector pin to ground?
Do any of the injector connectors have 12v?

The multi meter and test light are grounded to a bolt on the car body. I have the wiring harness removed from the injectors but the harness is still connected to the plugs in the front of the motor. (to the crank and cam sensor and ?)

When the key is turned ON the plugs at the harness, ALL pins read 4.36V on the left side, and 32.9V on the right.

With key OFF the plugs at the harness, ALL the left pins cycle between 0-200V and the right pins are all consistent 0.0V.

The test light does not light up touching any pin with car accessory on or off.

I started the car and the test light DID light up when poked through the top of the injector wires when hooked up to the injectors. Both pins lit up on injector #1 and #2
I also rented a noid light and put it on both #1 and #2 injector plug. They both flash dim but steady. (I did see a video where a guy used a 194 bulb instead of the noid)
Also saw a video that said the ground is controlled by the computer that tells the injector when to spray. So is not likely a bad ground anymore?

When the car Is put together, it starts up immediately and runs. Let me mention again that I did NOT have this 202 code to begin with. I removed the fuel rail to clean and test the injectors to figure out the 301 misfire code. The #1 injector was clogged(it unclogged after a few seconds of spraying throttle body cleaner through it while hooked up to a battery). It then made a sparking sound but kept spraying(Im almost positive I didn't cross the wires, I had alligator clips with insulation on them on the pins.)

Anyways, that's when I put the #1 injector in the #2 injector spot and put it all back together. I started it up and thats when I got the 202 code. Thats why I thought the faulty #1 injector was the cause of the 301 code and then bought the replacement injector.(that ard yelled at me for. Its ok I get the point lol!). I installed the new injector and here we are with the same codes.

This is what Im working with. No I did not do that and yes i have most of the little injector clips.


Thanks for the time

[pshovest]

OK. Did you remove the black plastic housing that the injectors and wiring are normally housed in? 0-200v and 32.9v would seem to be problems. Any chance the DMM is auto ranging and 0-200 is really mV? P116e is MAF code possibly from running disconnected or with intake duct not completely buttoned up. Intake temp wiring is likely in the same harness that goes back to the DME. I would open the e-box, and check the DME connector for corrosion or water.
Are misfire noticeable when driving?

[brokenbim]

I just measured the injector connectors(at the opened harness) with the car running and plugged into the injectors. Between 13.2-14.2V on the left pin. The right pin has pretty solid 14.2V

I have a innova 3320 multimeter set at the red 1 oclock position and the wires plugged into the correct slots for all the tests. Yes it "auto ranges" when not touching the red prong to anything.

It stopped auto ranging on the right pin at 0.0V with the key off. (It never stopped auto ranging on the left pin)

Here are the newest codes again since I deleted that last post:

[brokenbim]

Originally Posted by pshovest

Did you remove the black plastic housing that the injectors and wiring are normally housed in?

Yes the cover is off the injector wire harness. This is where I poked the top of the injector wires with the multimeter while engine was running. The injectors voltage then was between 13.2-14.2 on the left wire, and a solid 14.2 on the right plug wires on both injector #1 and #2.

Originally Posted by pshovest

0-200v and 32.9v would seem to be problems

The 0-200 was the multimeter "in standby" I think like I tried to explain next. The 32.9V definitely was read immediately on the right pin of injector plug after putting the key in the slot and having the dash lights and screen come on. So the 32.9V is high? I presume it should only be 12V? Is the left pin at 4.36V correct? Where do I go from here?
Is it any clue that when I mess around at first under the hood, a door chime in the cab rings for a second or two and sounds like something is activated or shutting down.

Originally Posted by pshovest

Any chance the DMM is auto ranging and 0-200 is really mV?

I have a innova 3320 multimeter set at the red 1 oclock position and the wires plugged into the correct slots for all the tests. Yes it "auto ranges" when not touching the red prong to anything. It stopped auto ranging on the right pin at 0.0V with the key off(It never stopped auto ranging on the left pin)
Is it not right the harness plugs have no voltage with the key OFF?

Originally Posted by pshovest

P116e is MAF code possibly from running disconnected or with intake duct not completely buttoned up.

This is a new code. The MAF sensor was definitely plugged in and the air ducts are all on tight. Refer to my message please!

Originally Posted by pshovest

Intake temp wiring is likely in the same harness that goes back to the DME.

Is that the only relationship to the other codes?

Originally Posted by pshovest

I would open the e-box, and check the DME connector for corrosion or water.

Is the e-box on the passenger firewall under the cabin filters. Does the wiring continue to the fuse box under the glove box?

Originally Posted by pshovest

Are misfire noticeable when driving?

Yes very. It is very obviously missing a cylinder or two... The 301 was the original code. I don't see where the 202 could even have come from...

*Let me add the #1 injector wires were poked before and all the plastics everywhere were taken off with force. There was a problem is why they sold. I just dont see how how I drove it 350 miles before the 301,302,300 misfires showed up. (420,430 showed up first tho.) The wiper blades were rotten so that shows it probably sat under a tree awhile?

*Also maybe coincidence... The original codes showed up shortly after I changed the spark plugs and sprayed the vanos solenoids. (i did not reinstall backwards).
These spark plugs were put in so loose, it almost seemed on purpose. Would that have made something function better or covered up a problem for awhile?