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  #31  
Old 09-11-2020, 01:04 PM
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So I checked the ground up front and its still connected. What do I need to test from here?

I took the passenger side cover off the wires/fuses on the engines firewall and everything looks clean and normal. I also lowered the fuse box under the glove box as well. Looks good there also. It was opened before though.

I have 12.06v at the battery but its not been getting charged from not being ran. It was bought in 3/17...
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Last edited by brokenbim; 09-24-2020 at 01:51 PM.
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  #32  
Old 09-11-2020, 01:33 PM
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0-200 and 32.9 are unexplained in a system with a 12-14.8v supply. I'll ignore it since 13.2-14.2V on the left pin and 14.2 on the right pin while running looks normal. The left pin varies because it is being grounded thru the DME on every power stroke. You've got an odd mix of codes here and the only common denominator seems to be that they all connect thru the same harness to the DME. I would examine the harness for rodent damage in addition to the e-box inspection. Running OK for 250 miles is odd. I wonder if there is a fuel contamination issue, based on the plugged injector(s) you found. If we can make it driveable, a couple cans of Techron should be in your future plans. If you're missing fuel injector clips, you can use (2) criss-crossed cable ties to secure connector to injector. I don't remember if we had you drive w/ MAF disconnected. Clear codes, disconnect MAF with engine off, start and drive. Any change in performance or codes?

Last edited by pshovest; 09-11-2020 at 01:40 PM.
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  #33  
Old 09-11-2020, 01:39 PM
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The original code that is still there is the 301? Did you see my personal message about my dumbass putting a magnet in the throttle body (looking for a missing fuel injector clip...) Would that have caused the P116E and P0113 codes that are new? I already have a can of seafoam in there as well.
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  #34  
Old 09-11-2020, 01:45 PM
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I didn't see the PM notice until you mentioned it. I doubt the magnet caused any of these codes.
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  #35  
Old 09-11-2020, 02:56 PM
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All the codes stay the same when running the car with the maf sensor unhooked.
I tore the passenger floor apart where wires go through firewall. I cant see any damage or any suspiciousness.
I cant understand how it went from 420, 430 to 301 302 300. Fixed the 420 430 302 and 300.

All that was left was the 301. cleaned injectors then got a 202. Did nothing and now have P116E and P0113.

I will take black plastic cover off the wiring on the coil side of the engine next. All Im doing is tearing the thing apart and making it worse. Im gonna set it on fire...

I have been unhooking the battery at random and had to charge it once. Any issues the dme would have with this? It does spark a little when putting the negative cable on last? Normal?
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Last edited by brokenbim; 09-11-2020 at 03:35 PM.
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  #36  
Old 09-11-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenbim View Post
..........it went from 420, 430 to 301 302 300. Fixed the 420 430 302 and 300........

............All that was left was the 301. cleaned injectors then got a 202. Did nothing and now have P116E and P0113............

...........All Im doing is tearing the thing apart and making it worse. I'm gonna set it on fire........

........ It does spark a little when putting the negative cable on last? Normal........
Don't get your hopes up, 420 and 430 codes could take a few hundred miles to return.

Everytime you manipulate the harness new codes appear. I still think there is a connection here.

Sparking is normal. Try to reconnect without causing a bouncing on-off-on-off-on effect. The voltage spikes may not be good for the modules powering up.

Lift X5 and check ground wire from chassis to engine fro corrosion.
Check ground wires on valve cover.
Measure the resistance from valve cover ground wire to:
1) the engine
2) the (-) jumper post at driver's side of radiator support

Running out of ideas here.
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  #37  
Old 09-13-2020, 12:42 PM
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Idk... The valve cover ground bolts jump around at first but end up .2 -.3 ohm at the radiator support. They read .5 ohm going to the alternator from valve cover bolts.

Back at the battery, If I put the probe to the neg terminal, and the other at the end of the 8 inch braided cable that goes to the chassis, It read 18.3 ohms. Normal?

The more I mess around with the harness, the more it makes that door chime noise(?) coming from under the dash in the cab. Any clue what thats about?
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Last edited by brokenbim; 09-13-2020 at 11:39 PM.
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  #38  
Old 09-14-2020, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenbim View Post
...........Back at the battery, If I put the probe to the neg terminal, and the other at the end of the 8 inch braided cable that goes to the chassis, It read 18.3 ohms. Normal?...........................

...........................The more I mess around with the harness, the more it makes that door chime noise(?) coming from under the dash in the cab. Any clue what thats about?............
I'd expect <1 ohm. What does DMM read when you short the leads on ohm scale? No idea about the noise.
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  #39  
Old 09-17-2020, 01:15 PM
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The saga continues... I got the car back from the garage. They replaced the #1 coil(which i already replaced with a used, thought was good, bosch) and the #3 coil (that I had no code for). They claim that cleared all the codes.

Drove it a very little and noticed hesitation and minor idle surge at idle. I revved the engine up past 3000rpm for 2 minutes (to quiet the tick) and the screen had engine malfunction with reduced power displayed. I have no CEL at the moment.

I also have a lot of vacuum when opening the oil cap. I ordered a new pcv and gonna cut the original off this weekend to see if that will help? (I know I should change the valve cover gasket...) Im also gonna clean the non return valve filter(filter for the vanos).
-There are two. The lower filter was indeed clogged. I sprayed it with throttle body cleaner and re-oiled it until I could hear the valve inside of it moving back and forth when shaking... Didnt notice any performance improvement afterwards though...

Not sure how healthy this engine sounds... Is it the now flapperless disa making the noise on the right?
https://youtu.be/jQP3n_DD0nk
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Last edited by brokenbim; 10-14-2020 at 03:32 PM.
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  #40  
Old 09-19-2020, 01:41 PM
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Have you confirmed there are no codes?
Now that it's drivable, what happens when you drive it hard.....WOT with 1-2 and 2-3 shifts at 5k RPM?
Can you check the short and long term fuel trims with live data on your code reader?
Can you check fuel pressure at the rail?
Are new codes created?
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