cat converter p0420 p0430 misfire p0300 p0301 injector p0202 disa

[brokenbim]

No codes except the permanent 420 and 430. The idle is a little better and does seem its only at first startup. Goes away after car warms up.
I did take it out and mashed it up to 80mph. It didnt shift until about 6200rpm(automatic) which was a little hairy, but it did not hesitate or have any negative reactions...

I followed Jfoj way of setting up the obdfusion app to take good reports. Here is diagnosis after a 4 minute highway drive at 65mph.
(I dont know how im supposed to upload these reports... here is a pdf...)
obd after 4 minute highway test.pdf

Do I still need to check fuel pressure at the rail?

I also have a 5 minute cold idle report.
A 4 minute highway drive at 65mph.
And another 5 minute warm idle. There csv files...

[pshovest]

All fuel trims are below 3%. That's very good. No need to check fuel pressure.
A hard run thru the gears w/o performance issues or codes is another good sign.
Can the 420 and 430 codes be cleared? How quickly do they return?

[brokenbim]

The codes are labeled permanent and they return immediately. Just had it out tonight driving around. The idle still sucks when not up to temp and there is a substantial knock somewhere...

In other news, I did change the pvc (A few days before this recent scan). What caused this pile of sand type substance under the diaphragm and the lifter springs? Looks pretty gnarly lol. It didnt fix anything either. I still always have a lot of vacuum under the oil cap.

If anyone wants to replace this pcv-ccv without removing the valve cover, just cut a small notch on the outer band with wire cutters or something. Then run a screwdriver around the outer edge with hammer to break off. It was an easy 15 minute job.

[pshovest]

Your sludge looks like everyone else's sludge.
"Permanent" means they have been cleared too often w/o fixing the problem. Did they have this permanent designation the first time you read the codes? Looks like you need to run the drive cycle and give the DME a chance to see if the cats are really working. Here's a link with some info on permanent codes and a recommended drive cycle. Not sure this works for BMW's.
https://www.autoserviceworld.com/car...ermanent-dtcs/

Universal Trip Drive Pattern

So, how to clear a Permanent DTC? By performing a Universal Trip Drive Pattern that meets the strict criteria in the repair manual, to prove to the computer that the fault has indeed been repaired and no one is trying to cheat on an emissions test. After performing this Drive Pattern, if the code doesn’t clear it’s usually because the strict criteria were not followed exactly. It’s a pain, but that’s the way it goes.

Typically, this Universal Trip Drive Pattern starts off by clearing all the DTCs so that only the Permanent DTC remains (always refer to service information for applicable information and procedures).

Then turn the ignition ON, start the vehicle and let it idle for at least 30 seconds. Then, without cycling the key, drive the vehicle for at least five minutes at more than 40 km/h. Then (again without cycling the key) let the vehicle idle for at least 30 seconds before shutting it OFF. The whole drive cycle must take at least 10 minutes. After performing a Universal Trip Drive Pattern, the computer clears the code, since it’s “seen” that the problem is fixed and not reoccurring. Sounds simple enough, and most problems have apparently come from not performing the Universal Trip Drive Pattern correctly, but time will tell if these new DTCs will be problematic.

I would run several Universal Trip Drive Patterns to see if these codes will clear. You may need a BMW tool like ISTA to get past this issue. Of course this code won't go away if your cats are really bad.

[brokenbim]

Ok. My original scan when I first got the car and CEL had a permanent, pending and confirmed 420,430.

I didn't clear the permanent codes using the BMW OBDII Drive Cycle since your last post. I did clear them with my scanner then though. The CEL stayed off for 243 miles but came on again driving the interstate yesterday. 420 and 430 again. Here is the report.
Diagnostic Report 2020-10-07.html.pdf

I don't have any rotten egg smell or rattling noises. The shop did report I have a small hole in my muffler if that would help cause the CEL?

So my report is saying I need pre 02 sensor which isn't normal to go bad at once, but since it does have 170k on it, probably bad since never changed before? I will buy just because of the age and I really think most everything else is fixed now, at least according to the scans? I think she has some life left in her, but than again I know almost nothing lol.

It does shift hard at random times. I am going to change transmission and transfer case oil with Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle full synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. If the fluid was bad tho, it should shift rough all the time, right?

I also would love to soundproof the engine cover without overheating the motor? Is that ok to do?

[pshovest]

Since "permanent" code existed when you bought, previous owner had been clearing the code repeatedly.
If hole is upstream of the catalyst or O2 sensors, it could interfer with sensor readings and/or cat performance and cause problems. I doubt there's an impact with downstream leaks.
Bad pre-cat sensors can certainly cause cat codes, but I don't see from report that they are problems. What am I missing? You don't have sensors 3 or 4, so those "not availables" can be ignored. DME is clearly in closed loop mode with fuel trims being reported and fluctuating. No harm in replacing O2 sensors though. Report says post cat sensor output is .9999v with a max allowed of 0.9218v. This is likely the cause of the codes. If you want to experiment I would replace (1) pre-cat and (1) post cat sensor on the same bank. Diagnosis with a BMW specific tool like ISTA might give more clues, but in all likelihood your cats are bad. Prolonged running with misfires could have caused the damage.
If engine is down on power, trans will shift hard. Fluid change may or may not help with shifting. DO NOT use ATF in the transfer case. It likely needs friction modifiers like that used in LSD's, since it's clutch pack is expected to slip.
Factory engine beauty cover has soundproofing. I wouldn't try to improve on it.

[ard]

Originally Posted by brokenbim

I also would love to soundproof the engine cover without overheating the motor? Is that ok to do? !

Id focus on getting the car FIXED first.


Worry about soundproofing the engine later. Honestly Ive read perhaps 350,000 posts on X5s over the years and only one asking how to soundproof the engine compartment.

[brokenbim]

I will use BMW DTF/TF0870 for transfer case.

So my biggest problem still standing is my surging idle on cold startup and sometimes when warm at stop signs and such. Im sure the bad idle is causing rough shifting sometimes.

Just another fyi to anyone who cares... I also got caught up in fixing the leaking windshield washer fluid reservoir. Cheap fix but sort of a pain to get at and find the leak. Procedure on newtis and some other threads.
The guy before me swapped the grommets, but the leaks were from the slits in the side of the motor itself. Guess that explains the rotton wiper blades lol.

And as far as my soundproofing, I figured if I couldnt stop the tick, I would try to muffle it. lol