Clean diesel is a pain V2.0

[primeral]

Hey folks, I have an '09 35D. From various searches I read everywhere that the DPF delete pipes available in Europe are not compatible with the US models. I come here with some learned facts. Some vendors offer two distinct delete pipes for the E70 diesels; one is specifically for the 235ps 3.0D and another for the 286ps 3.0SD. The outlet ODs of the DPFs differ between the two, being 61mm for the 3.0D and 70mm for the 3.0SD.

The American 35D is measured at 70mm. Having basic fabrication skills and being a hobbyist TIG welder I ordered the 3.0SD DPF delete pipe from France and the results are in the picture. It appears no fabrication or modification to the new downpipe is needed.

Having a closer look at the sensor bungs, they are all in the same general locations and of the same size and thread pitch. Even the underside mounting surface matches with the OEM piece via an extension rod. The only real difference is the lack of an exhaust cooler flange. From some research, some EU countries get an E70 X5 diesel with the exhaust cooler, France does not. I will need to bridge the inlet and outlet coolant lines intended for the exhaust cooler and that is very easy.

What I do want to know is what to do about the cooled exhaust inlet. That mates with the exhaust cooler using a 40mm v-band clamp. Am I to simply block it off? I have not found anyone from the EU formerly equipped with an exhaust cooler to ask for advice.

I have to mention, this job does not qualify as a basic DIY. Access from above is only possible if a jumble of electronics are removed and the exhaust manifold is removed. With all of the auxiliary systems connected to our American X5 diesels, I decided to get it from below like the 335D and 535D guys do. There is barely any room to work with underneath and I had to drop the front subframe an inch to finally extract the DPF. I also had to remove the pliable heat shielding and after removing the passenger side motor mount to gain precious millimeters and I had to jack that side of the engine up. The right axle and its associated bracketry, the subframe itself, and the exhaust tunnel contributed to this job's difficulty.

My original honest intention was to thoroughly clean the DPF matrix inside and reinstall it, but the above mentioned space constraints were such a pain in the ass that I decided to go with the slimmer aftermarket downpipe. I'm not apologetic for deleting the DPF based on this reason alone. I imagine it being close to giving birth to twin babies simultaneously without an epidural.

Any info on bypassing the exhaust cooler would be appreciated.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by primeral

My original honest intention was to thoroughly clean the DPF matrix inside and reinstall it

Why?

[primeral]

Originally Posted by ZetaTre

Why?

I originally didn't want the hassle of an ECM reflash

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by primeral

I originally didn't want the hassle of an ECM reflash

Oh, sorry... By cleaning, you meant get rid of the matrix. I thought you had a clogged DPF.

Won't work out the box: the DDE in our car measures differential pressure and won't accept a 0 differential (what you'd have without a matrix). You can probably get around it by adding a restriction on the post matrix side.

You still would have to reflash or find a way to have the DDE measure some backpressure.

How are you going to address the SCR? I have a feeling the catalyst there won't like getting all the soot

[Wolfgang Gullich]

Isn't there a kit you can order from Europe that has all of the necessary parts to do the DPF delete which includes the software reflash? I think I remember reading about it somewhere on the interwebs...

[primeral]

Originally Posted by ZetaTre

Oh, sorry... By cleaning, you meant get rid of the matrix. I thought you had a clogged DPF.

It is clogged. That is the only reason I am messing with it. I would not install parts on the X5 for the sole purpose of improving performance, I have another high performance project car that scratches that itch.

My main goal was to actually clean the DPF and reinstall it, not to gut it.

Won't work out the box ... You still would have to reflash or find a way to have the DDE measure some backpressure.

How are you going to address the SCR? I have a feeling the catalyst there won't like getting all the soot

Indeed, I was hoping to run a factory system, but now I have no choice but to do a reflash. The matrix in the catalytic converter is not as fine as the DPF, I think it will be fine.

As far as reflashes, I was trying to avoid paying $1000-1200 for a tune. Since I've surrendered to deleting the DPF, I did some homework and there seem to be ECM patching utilities out there that delete one or more of the various emissions control features. The problem is extracting the OEM ECM. The Galletto 1260 cable and utility I have (from my E39 M5 days with the Jailbreak Tune ) isn't compatible with the E70 35d so I was considering a Galletto 2 with V54 software. If anyone has any insight on this matter, please chime in.

[primeral]

Oh also, the DPF delete pipe vendor wrote back and stated that I just need to plug the exhaust cooler inlet along with bypassing the coolant lines.

For the exhaust cooler plug it should be something simple, disk shaped, has similar thickness to the exhaust cooler flange, and metal. My search for a 40mm coin is an obsolete $100 Mexican peso, but I don't have one lying around. I will check to see if I have any suitable $1 casino tokens.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by primeral

It is clogged. That is the only reason I am messing with it. I would not install parts on the X5 for the sole purpose of improving performance, I have another high performance project car that scratches that itch.

My main goal was to actually clean the DPF and reinstall it, not to gut it

So let's solve that problem as I went through the very same issue with my dad's car (a euro version 325d) and discovered my 35d (US) was traveling down that route..

I start by saying I don't know the history of yours so something unique may have happened which makes what I am about to say not applicable.

The primary reason why the DPF fails is because the car doesn't regen. And with BMWs the primary reason why the car doesn't regen is because the thermostat fails and does not allow the engine to stay at the operating temperature required for a regen to carry out.

Let me ask you something:
1) Are you having issues with glow plugs also?
2) Do you have a 480A code stored?

If so read this: 2006 E91 330d DPF warning Woes. You'll see my contribution in the last post: from that point on my dad's 325d has been fine.

I did check the thermostat in my 35d and it was indeed on it's way out. Here's the post: X5 35d engine temperature - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Let me know!!!

DPF do not clogged just like catalytic converters do not just die unless there is an underlying problem

[primeral]

I will definitely check the printout of codes. This happened after two straight days of towing a vehicle with trailer through mountains. I want to believe soot buildup from the continuous increased load exacerbated an underlying problem. Your theory is sound.

I don't anticipate any glow plug problem, as that was replaced at a BMW dealership prior to my purchase of the vehicle 15 months ago. If it's a new glow plug problem, I'm unaware of it.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by primeral

I don't anticipate any glow plug problem, as that was replaced at a BMW dealership prior to my purchase of the vehicle 15 months ago. If it's a new glow plug problem, I'm unaware of it.

Could you articulate this? Was it the glowplug module that failed or individual glowplugs?

In Euro cars failed glow plugs do not trigger a CEL; I'm unsure of US since I've never had any glowplug problem with mine.

I'm uncertain whether there is a direct cause-effect relationship between bad glowplugs and clogged DPF (examples of direct cause-effect could be that a glowplug code stored in the DDE stops the regen or the glowplugs are used to increase the EGT).

However multiple bad glowplugs are just another symptom of a failed thermostat: when the coolant temperature is below 75C the DDE enrich the fuel mixture to accelerate warmup and uses the glowplug (under part-load) to facilitate combustion and reduce soot. If the thermostat fails and the coolant temperature drops below 75C the DDE goes in "engine warmup mode": this results in high fuel consumption and overloads the glowplugs that blow. In essence, in our engine glowplugs are not used only for startup, but they are used as part of an emission controlling strategy under certain circumstances.

Let us know!