subwoofer idea - what do you think?

[Marceltj4.6is]

What do you think about this for the sub replacement:
1) keep the plastic shell and insulate it a bit better. Run new wiring and install pair these:
Kicker 10CVT652 6 1/2" Single 2 ohm Shallow-Mount Subwoofer (CVT652)
2) Pair them up with a decent 2 channel amp 400+ watt

[m5james]

There is a pic I found on Google where someone at a shop in Atlanta used JL subs. Personally, after reading up about shallows vs normal subs, I think you won't be satisfied w/ using a shallow in general, and even more so w/ such a small subwoofer. Also, @ $60 a pop isn't gonna be very cheap. I got a Kicker L5 DVC sub for $90 shipped. Are you trying to upgrade the sub w/o upgrading the amp as well? If that's the route you're going, I think you're really limiting yourself since your will never have direct control over the sub w/o using a dedicated amp. I don't remember the ohm ratings of the stock subs, and I have no clue of their RMS handling either. The problem is that if you had a sub that can handle more power, but are using (in your case) a factory amp, you'll actually have to turn the volume up more in order to get the same amount of sound. I got a JH300 monoblock amp off ebay for $90, and it's more than enough power to run my Kicker sub.

The factory subs are actually dual voice coil units w/ decent sized magnets. I just think size is going to matter more than anything. After seeing about 3 different homemade versions out of MDF, 1 version remaking the face of the stock enclosure (which I'm going to do) to fit an 8 or 10, or the two aftermarket enclosures...I think you might just have to bite the bullet and take one for the team. I've never fiberglassed before, but I'm going to be following this thread Xoutpost.com - View Single Post - Custom Subwoofer Enclosure and Amp Installed

[Marceltj4.6is]

Ha, that google image was where my idea came from but can never get those images to open up on the actual page.
Already ripped out the stock amp and have everything installed. Just need to mount the HU with mybimmer bezel that just came in.

The idea of trimming the stock sub and adding in an 8" sounds cheaper and less complicated as far as wiring goes. Just run it off a mono amp. However, I also don't have exp with fiberglass but there's always a good time to start. Looks like you've begun doing it. Any complications thus far?

[m5james]

I haven't begun anything yet. If you look at the entire thread, I've taken pics of the additional areas where I'm going to expand the factory recesses in order to get more airspace wherever possible. I've never fiberglassed either, but I've watched and have gotten some advice from a buddy in Seattle who's done it. He suggested that after I cut out the additional areas I wanna expand, that I take pieces of fabric (old t-shirts) the stretch and staple or spray glue them in place to the form that I want, then resin the t-shirt fabric. After it cures to the form that I want, then I need to add one last layer of fiberglass mat over my patches of even the entire box to reinforce the t-shirt patches along w/ the entire enclosure itself. Its going overboard compared to what KidSquid did to his, but I figure it'll stiffen the plastic enclosure, be good practice (for something i'll probably never do again) and i'll get more airspace.

[malcris]

Hi guys,
sorry I've been abscent for a while, had my whole truck apart in about 1200 pieces.......Here's an update on the glass box.....I tried both sides to create a fiberglass box with no success... Here's the problem. Once you get the layup done and removed you'll find that the flanges that the cargo covers fit against will prevent you from getting your enclosure into the space. If you make it narrower than the flanges you're only going to get a box of about .4 cu ft which is way too small to put any descent sounding 10" sub that can actually move any air. Anyway, Here's what I did....I measured the distance between the wheelwells where they meet the back seats it about 42" wide. My truck has reclining rear seats, so I moved them to the farthest point of reclining. Using an angle guide (compass) I calculated the angle of the rear seats, sorry I forget the number..... I then created a trapazoid MDF box approx 8.5" high and 11" deep. It actually only takes up about 5" of cabin space. I put the bottom of the box about 2.5" above the floor of the cargo space by leaving the edge pieces long. (I'll attach a pic) I then mounted a jl 10w6v2 firing down. I carpeted the box with the same color as the interior and It is amazing......I got about 1.5 cu ft of airspace inside the box which was way too much for this speaker especially considering the partial isobaric pressure created by the floor of the cargo area so I filled approx .6 cu ft of the box with closed cell foam blocks (the kind that comes in packaged goods like a tv or speakers). These blocks will take up airspace with little weight gain. Also, you can tune your box by either adding more foam or taking some out. I've found that the cabin gain in these trucks is a little tricky so you'll need to do some tuning otherwise your box will be boomy in the 100-125hz range. I crossed mine about 73hz at 24db/octave. I've got a jl 500/1 which I mounted on the bottom of the box for ease of removal.

[m5james]

Pics man, pics! We wanna see them all...before, during, and after...don't leave anything out.

[malcris]

sorry james here's the pics.....Had trouble uploading

[malcris]

the install looks pretty clean with minimal loss of space (no real useable space anyway) and the bonus, its modular. I ran the power wire from the battery, the ground from the factory ground point inside the spare tire well (forward and to the left of the battery, just track the ground wire from the battery), and a simple loc (scosche fa1 $18 at wallmart)to tap the factory harness. BSW has good instructions on how to tap, see the installing an aftermarket sub to factory system post on their site. Had to put some of those felt carpet thingies on the rubber gromets for the rear hatch because it was vibrating tooooooooo much.

Anyway james the rest of the project is comming along nicely. Just picked up a pair of dayton 5s52an midranges here's the link Parts-Express.comayton RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange | midrange dome midrange rs52an-8 mid range dome midrange dayton zdt35-60608
on a recommendation from a friend whose got them and can't say enough about them. Going to use these in the factory dash location. Also picked up two sets of old school a/d/s px tweets and 6" midbass. I decided to run everything active so I've got an ads ph30.2 6 x 75 with 3 way x-over and a 2x50 w Xtant a2002 to run the rears with an a/d/s ax2e active x-over.....will update as it unfolds....

BTW any power problems with your X? I'm considering having my alternator re-wound to put out 200A 'cause I'm getting a little bit of the ole dimming lights on long bass notes..

[m5james]

Nice. Besides having the rolling cargo floor, I also have luggage that fits perfectly in the back on the X that I can lay on their side so I don't have to stack them and lose sight out of the rear window. I though about doing something just like that and having it fire through the skibag hole...exactly the same as what I've got in my 7. The X has ironically turned into my road trip car, even though it gets worse mileage than the 7. I just didn't wanna lose any space, so that's why I went the modified stock enclosure route.

Let me know how those Dayton's turn out. I'm still looking to replace all 14 speakers in the 7 w/ something aftermarket, and I don't wanna feel like I'm going to have to sacrifice anything. My front doors have something like a 1" tweet, 1.5-2" mid, then a 6.5" midbass, then the rear doors have a 1" tweet and 6.5" midbass as well. The tweet in the rear doors I need to either reduce their output or convert them to a mid because they just scream in my ear when I really crank it up, completely washing oout the whole front stage. The rear window has 4 6.5" woofers that I may just get rid of entirely to have my box rebuilt and have it port through the window shelf instead of inside the trunk. The 7 has taken the backseat a lot lately, no real reason either.

I personally don't have any power problems, but I've considered installing a cap like Sobi had in his X5. The guy who built all the boxes for my 7 and a couple testers for the X said that since I'm only putting out 300 watts that it's really not needed, but in my oponion, for $100, it probably couldn't hurt either.

[DocMike]

Same thing I was thinking instead of using an 8 but look at these. Getting great reviews, large sound, small speaker, small space.

Example in Lexus SUV, from professional install
A quick review on a JL 6W3v3..... - S-10 Forum

JL Audio 6W3v3 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers