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So I suppose that's cheap then. Didn't even think about taking the air out. Just pull the fuse? Forgive my ignorance, I haven't done it before. |
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To me that seems like an awful lot of play. How is your upper control arm and tie rod?
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Not sure what else to check. Keep them coming guys, need to get to the bottom of this. Thanks |
You have to actually air them out at the reservoir - there is a little connection to unscrew and you will hear the air wooshing out -
Once the air is out and takes the preload off the suspension you will be able to know if the ball joints do it - I say install the rear suspension parts first (before going for alignment) if it solves it then great go get it aligned and forget bearings - if it doesn't solve it and there is bearing play with the suspension deflated in the rear then do them - $150 per side is amazing labor on the wheel bearing - |
Got you man. I'll do that and see what I'm able to find out.
Wow I must be really lucky with my mechanic's prices. He's got another profitable business on the side and his new shop is on his property, paid for. I suppose that's why he can afford to fix cars for cheaper than competition. 800$ for one wheel bearing is insane. |
Either you're Indy likes working for free or he's in for a surprise on Time/Labor for the R/R. Even with the moon and stars aligned, he's got at least 3 hrs tied up on the WB
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He's got two decades of experience, I'm sure he's had his fair share of wheel bearings.
Either way, I don't want to give him a reason to raise his prices lol |
That's so crazy. Is that Center nut tight, the one that goes through the hub?
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I didn't check. What's the socket size on that thing? 32..33mm or so?
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