I am in DFW and I have a programmer for the keys. You can borrow the thing and do it. It does require you to remove the EWS from the vehicle.

project on hold for awhile
 

I'll inquire with a local dealer, to see if the valet key route is still possible, but i've missed the window for repairs & parts in November, due to more expenses coming in the next 10-15 days (another vehicle inspection & tags, etc.).

Then, multiple Dr's appointments in the first part of December (above and beyond the ones covered by insurance: special eye care, glasses, and possibly shoulder surgery...if I'm lucky, my right shoulder is getting so bad now...), so I need to conserve my cash. And, despite a family agreement years ago, my wife will go hog wild (again) for Christmas spending on her sister's family...we're childless), so no money to spare for keys (if the dealer won't do the valet key). and then there's property taxes Jan1....

It might be February before I can resume work on th X5, if all goes wrong.

Thanks for your offer, but if I get to that point, I may just pull the EWS, send it and the DME off, and get it deleted. Too bad there's no local programmer that can do the job, on site, or I would've had it done last year.
We'll see.

There's a locksmith that can do this on site for you. I have used his services to cut the keys.

Nice guy, he's in Richardson: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EdwCP8gd51cmcNbk9

Wait a second, have I been thinking wrong about the ignition key situation?

If a non-battery-powered valet key will turn on the ignition, then it's the RFID chip inside that's doing the trick.

It's passive, being read by the ring antenna on the steering column, so my problem with intermittent starting (cranking) is not a key problem, but lies elsewhere.

Perhaps the chip is loose inside the diamond key shell, and sometimes is too far away from the antenna to be detected, or the antenna is starting to fail, or is it the switch itself? There's always a chance that the EWS module is giving up, too.

Just overthinking again.



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Remote or valet key both use passive RFID for EWS. That's why un paird or dead bat key will still start the car.

If a trace breaks on the RFID circuit you can have an intermittent situation where the ckt makes contact when twisting the key just right.

I just helped replace a key cylinder/switch on a Ford and it came with two new chipped keys and one not chipped.

Good thing the non chipped came with.

To add the new keys to the DME there's a fairly simple method but it required two coded keys which no longer turn the lock!

Solution: use the new non chip key and one at a time old chipped keys held against. Too bad bmw doesn't do similar.

The bummer for Ford victims is you will figure out you need two working keys when you lose one and buy a replacement!


–awr–

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I've been expecting, & dreading, a key failure for years
 

That sounds exactly like my key situation, but how would the circuit inside the chip become dislodged (I had assumed it it is a hardy piece, maybe potted in epoxy), or is the "passive" chip just informing the ring antenna that it is present, and the real work is then done by the EWS transponder>microprocessor>EWS pickup coil (or in the reverse order)?
Attachment 85153 EWS key components

I did have a trace come loose when I replaced the battery in my key, 4.5 years ago, and the X wouldn't start until I soldered the trace into place. It seem s that I need to cut open my key and re-solder the trace, again, but I'll certainly need a spare "valet" key before I chance it.
Attachment 85155

Like i mentioned earlier. Def get that vaket key first or work out meeting up with the guy with the programmer.

Once you have a second working key then open up your first key and reflow everything.

Three RFID circuit has at least a couple components that are SMD soldered and have solder joints.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a417ab8328.jpg
You don't need to drill holes like i did but those circles about 2mm from the corner are exactly where to poke pins through to measure the voltage.

The key (pun intended) to figure out if buttons are operating is to watch voltage as you press the buttons. It will drop then recover when you let go.

It's a fairly non invasive test.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a0f9c2585c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9d9f54ba14.jpg
If you have a bench power supply you can supply an appropriate amount of current like 20ma


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1979bfb10f.jpg
Here's the guts. Notice my oops hole top right where i got the ckt board. I had to repair a trace on the back side. The two pins on the top are 16g steel i used to make alignment pins.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0003d1218a.jpg

I suspect this is the RFID ckt. I somehow managed to not take a photo of the back of the board but i think there's an antenna in the pcb trace for the remotes. I think the fine winding coil is for charging and maybe also the RFID antenna. (i don't remember if i ever confirmed it).

I reflowed all the solder joints and both my non working keys worked again.

Lost one a year later and another year later second stopped working that's when i bought a factory key and fixed my original key again.

I only kept original as a spare until the car was "totaled". I only used the beautiful new key and it was so new when the car died i kept the key as a keepsake of my first BMW.


–awr–

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maybe next week, can I move forward in my repair struggles
 

I'll call the local dealer(s) and ask if they'll sell me a valet key for my X5, today. If so, I'll take my key, to let them see the blade pattern (and maybe test it for function), and my title to verify ownership, as soon as possible, so I'll be able to repair my diamond key, or take alternative steps. I can't fix the fuel problem if there is a crank problem, too.

I made a mess cutting open my OEM key 4.5 years ago, and glued it together, only to find out that it wouldn't crank the X5. So, I cut it open a second time, foungd and soldered a wire trace I must've damaged, glued it together again, and it worked. Now, I must repeat the process, but I have a dremel clone (Wen) to use, since my old Dremel quit while working on this key, instead of a dullish utility knife.
Attachment 85156 key has seen better days

Attachment 85157 I bought this for the upcoming key solder job

valet key ordered
 

I called a dealer and they said OK. Went there and paid $90 for the key, which should be there at the dealer next week. I'll have to pick it up, since they advised against shipping it (I agree, refer to my rants in previous threads concerning shipping deliveries to my home).

I'm assuming that the key will have the blade cut, and require no programming...it won't be used to open anything via remote.

it will work on delivery. It doesn’t have a remote so there’s nothing to pair.


–awr–

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