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added problem, won't crank at all now; crap

Quote:

Originally Posted by workingonit (Post 1247280)

Haven't tried the tap test on this MAF, yet, but why would it have been damaged COINCIDENTALLY simultaneously at the same time the fuel pump failed, or just by (gently) removing it, to try a different one at the inspection station, when the X5 first quit running? I'll tap test it before I try one of the two $20 MAFs I carry as emergency spares.

If/when I find an extension hose for my pressure tester, and see that the pressure is dropping on turns, how does that reconcile with running rich all the time, now?
Does anyone know where to buy a 3-ft fuel pressure tester hose extension?....

Haven't felt good enough for a few days, with rotator cuff tendonitis and some sort of cold (my Grand-nephew caught Typus, but I suspect that I haven't, separated by 100 miles and 3 months from contact), so after receiving fuel hose parts (5 ft hose, small clamps, and barbed union reducers) I hooked it up to my fuel rail, and taped the gauge to the windshield.

First, I did the tap test, with no change, and then reset the faults stored, MAF voltage fault + P0172 and P0175 (rich codes, on my Torque app), then checked my rigged-up my pieced-together fuel pressure tester extension hose for leaks, and went in the house to get my wallet.

Upon returning, I turned the key, and no crank! I checked for new codes, and found no faults. Battery is sitting at 12.7v, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I'm going to hook-up my 20amp stable power supply/battery maintainer and let it charge for awhile, before I try anything else. I didn't rest codes with engine running, but did the tap test and fuel pressure leak test with it running, at 14v. Did my EWS lose its' place again, like it did a year ago when I changed batteries?

WTF is going on with my X5?

You have a MAF voltage fault and you have the MAF voltage rigged on a switch right?? Do the lights dim when you are trying to crank? Is the battery in good shape? I think the EWS can cause no-crank or no start depending on what conditions are met but I don't remember exactly how that works. It would have been good to get a bigger and maybe better gauge along with some fuel line hose to splice your adapter to so you could get a more accurate idea of your fuel pressure and easier to read while driving. With a longer hose it would be good to have the proper bleed valve at the gauge but you can probably get away without that.

EWS no sync i think you get crank. Seems more like ignition switch. You can key on and jumper the starter to crank.

–awr–

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questions & answers

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80stech (Post 1247390)

You have a MAF voltage fault and you have the MAF voltage rigged on a switch right??
MAF is not connected to anything but the DME; I never even tried to do my remote adjustment idea, after more research.

Do the lights dim when you are trying to crank?
No, and I even looked at the sunsushade lighting; all looks normal.

Is the battery in good shape?
I think it is; one year old, and charged every day on a Battery Tender, and never a problem cranking...until the battery needed replacement, and now.

I think the EWS can cause no-crank or no start depending on what conditions are met but I don't remember exactly how that works.
I'll charge the battery tomorrow, before I attempt to crank it, and I'll use my Foxwell NT510 to scan for codes. The Torque Pro app is good to use as a dashboard display, but is lacking on locating faults. I'd use my Foxwell for an active dash display while driving, but the screen's too small to see. Probably time to upgrade to the NT710, but Foxwell won't confirm if I can move my BMW, GM, and Lexus programs to it, from my NT510.

It would have been good to get a bigger and maybe better gauge along with some fuel line hose to splice your adapter to so you could get a more accurate idea of your fuel pressure and easier to read while driving. With a longer hose it would be good to have the proper bleed valve at the gauge but you can probably get away without that.
My gauge is accurate as far as I can tell, the extension hose I made is 5ft, so it allows the gauge to be taped to the windshield, and it has a bleed valve. Should I rent another? No guarantee of more accuracy.

X5 stalled/set codes while being inspected!

You have to email foxwell with the right phrase to get them to move your modules.

Code:

mailto:[email protected]



https://www.foxwelldiag.com/blogs/car-diagnostic/foxwell-nt710-faq-everything-you-want-to-know



Under point five:



5. If I Buy A New NT710, Can I Transfer My Paid Software Of NT530 To The New NT710?



You can transfer your paid software from NT530/NT510 Elite//NT510 Pro/NT520 Pro to NT710 for free.



So somebody has some incorrect information can you look into why the website FAQ says it's possible?

That was the email I sent amd they moved all my modules from 510 to 710

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...84eea20896.jpg
Example of realtime graph on the 710

–awr–

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If I had the NT710, I could use it as a dashboard monitor...??

I sent a similar question to Foxwell just yesterday, but never received a reply. Last time I sent a message, it was a week or two before I got a response. I sent this:

5.If I Buy A New NT710, Can I Transfer My Paid Software Of NT510 Elite To The New NT710?

I already have BMW, GM, and Toyota/Lexus software loaded on it.

Can I buy a NT710 without brand-specific software pre-loaded, so I can move the threeprograms I have onto it?

And, is there a way to move the software back to the NT510, if the NT710 has a problem?

I bought my NT510 Elite from Amazon in 2020, from the Foxwell.us site. Other Foxwells are sold on a second Foxwell site, but, in an earlier thread we bost posted on, both sites have the same phone number. So, perhaps one site will do the software swap, and maybe the other site will not. You never know.

It'll be awhile, since my monthly car repair budget has been exceeded, and my CFO will raise holy heck if I buy another scan tool just to work on the broken car.

Just do one final update on 510 before they swap. You can't update it anymore but it has no internet access to phone home and disable.

Use the email for contact. Monitor spam folder.

–awr–

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endlessly chasing my tail

I tried to start it before I hooked up the charger, and still no crank.

The charger said the battery was at 90%, but I put it on Power Supply at 14v, 20amps, before hooking up my Foxwell.

Foxwell said it had 10 codes: 4 DME, 4 KOMBI, and 2 EWS:
Attachment 85145 all went away after clear codes/restart
Attachment 85147 two remain (BD and D7, which is normal) after clear codes/restart
Attachment 85146 "01" comes back, after failures to crank, alternating with good starts

It seems that my key sometimes needs to be flipped over, and tried again, to crank. I also remember that from several other times, over 4.5 years, but witout codes being set. I keep my ONLY key on an inductive charger on my desk, so I'm sure it isn't the key battery (though it is 4.5 years old now, after I replaced it very soon after I got the X5).

Meanwhile, about fuel pressure testing:
The tester gauge was left on the windshield for 22 hours before I tried starting the X today. It read 36psi.
Attachment 85148

I bled the pressure, then started the engine, and it took about a minute for the needle to rise to 44psi, never reaching 50. I pushed the bleeder button again, got very little fuel from the bypass hose, and looked at the gauge again (after jumping back into the seat). It read ZERO. So, I tried again, with the same results, ZERO psi.

Then, I removed the gauge and extension hose from the gauge, and went through another round of key flip/clear codes/finally restarting, before I attached the fuel gauge to the fuel rail, sans extension. Still no pressure. WTF?

Today's conclusions: I'm jinxed, hexed, cursed, damned, whatever, after trading my Chevelle (that brought a Poltergeist into my garage, as witnessed by four others). I believed, at first that the Poltergeist left with the Chevelle, but maybe not. I thought we had a truce, at least, but....

More seriously (I hope):

1) maybe it's time for anothe diamond key rebuild; I have a key shell (with the blade already laser-cut), so maybe a new battery and guts transferral is in order,
2) I guess i need another fuel pressure tester kit...I'll try a name brand this time,
3) I've got to get a Foxwell NT710 soon, because my NT510 Elite is so slow, and hampers testing, and I can hardly read the screen anymore, unless I'm 1.5 feet away from it (old, tired eyes), and
4) learn to take better photos out in the X.

The EWS has nothing to do with the key battery. So now the engine starts ?? Your fuel gauge problem is almost guaranteed to be be that you have a poor connection at the rail.

there is an RF ID connection to the key that separate circuit. if the key sometimes works, I’m betting there’s a bad Solder joint on that circuit. It does not use the battery. It uses radio waves only. do you have a second key to use?

–awr–

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