I did a fuel gauge reset back in May '22, following the procedures andrewwynne prompted me to use. The thread is here:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...c-foxwell.html

Here's a list of what the 21 settings are all about:

THE LIST:
=========
Instructions to access the hidden OBC functions:
1. Hold Trip Reset while turning ignition key to on position
2. OBC should show "Test"
3. Use Trip Reset to select function 19.0 that unlocks all the features
3. Wait for display to show "Off"
4. Depress Trip Reset for 1/4 second and release it
5. With no delay press Trip Reset several times to select one of the following function s
==========================================
BMW E46 On-Board Computer (OBC) Hidden Codes
nr example description
1 Car Engine and cluster data
1.0 46nnn Chassis nr/VIN serial number (last 5 digits)
1.1 4nnn K-number
1.2 690236 Cluster Part #
1.3 045210 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
1.4 1200 Week (12)/year of manufacture (2000)
1.5 09_160 Hardware (09) and software # (16.0) of cluster
1.6 Not used
1.7 04__44 CAN-version (04) KI-revision index (44)
2 (test) Cluster System Test - Activates the gauge drivers,
indicators and LEDs to confirm function
3 SI Data
3.0 1098 Used fuel in liters since last SI (Service Inspection)
3.1 0231 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)
4 Momentary Consumption
4.0 0145+ Instant fuel consumption - 0145=14.5 liters/100km
4.1 0018 Instant fuel consumption - 0018=1.8 l/Hour
5 Distance Gone Consumption
5.0 082 Average mileage; 082=8.2 liters/100km
5.1 0536 Calc. km to refuel (momentary distance to go)
6 Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
6.0 109330+ Fuel level averaged; Left half sensor input=10.9 liters; Right sensor input=33.0
liters
6.1 0439+ Total tank level averaged; vlgs 6.0: 10.9+33.0=43.9 liters
6.2 0442+ Indicated value (44.2) and tank phase
7 Temperature and Speed
7.0 021+ Coolant/Engine temperature (2.1C)
7.1 130 Ambient/Outside temperature - chg met 5 pts. 125/130/135
7.2 + Engine speed / Current RPMs 1/min
7.3 + Vehicle speed / Current Speed in km/hour
8 Input value in HEX form
8.0 1d0+ System voltage ADC-Value Hex code
8.1 26C33C+ ADC Values HG left/HG right
8.2 0000 ADC Value brake degradation sensor (000=o.k.)
8.3 18C ADC Value outside temperature
9 Battery
9.0 140 Battery Voltage - 140 = UB 14.0v
9.1 242013+?
9.2 074_78+?
9.3 0011+?
10 Not used
11 Not used
12 Not used
13 GonG Gong Test
14 Not used
15 Status cluster I/O-ports (bit codes) 0=low; 1=high
1st-belt contact, seat belt fastened=0; 2) ignition lock contact, key inserted=0; 3) door
contact, door open=0; 4) clock button pressed=0; 5) SI reset=0, for reset=0; 6) EGS
transmission failure=0
Status Digital Outputs (bits) 0=inactive, 1=active
1) Gong output; 2) Brake warning lamp; 3) Low fuel warning lamp; 4) EGA lamp; 5) seat belt
lamp; 6) manipulation dot
16 Not used
17 Not used
18 Not used
19 Lock Status; unlocks functions in range 3-18
19.0 L-On/L-Off Unlock: press button when "L-Off"
20 Not used
21 Software Reset; reset OBC settings
00 End of test


Maybe that was the first sign of an old pump & sender about to go out.

I have the low cluster, and the Previous owner lost the MID, somehow.

Sent from my moto g power 5G - 2024 using Tapatalk

Mostly it helps recalibrate the fuel gauge that uses a buffer and can get really out of whack when the pump had had problems and replaced.


–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

Thank you guys, for the clarification and additional info!

improved version of OBC list added above
 

I substituted a better copy of the OBC LIST into my previous post #41, for easier reading.

Though it was intended for E46 models, it works on the E53, at least in my low-cluster model.

I can't get the x/&zz!! locking ring to screw on!
 

I received the Hella pump today, a day earlier than I expected. couldn't wait topull out the OEM, and install the new pump. That was 2 hours or more ago. I still haven't got the locking ring back on.

I even got the wife to come help me, because of my bad left wrist & thumb, and my entire right arm is getting worse by the day (I know, excuses, excuses), and we finally gave up. Dhe went back to her new living room make-over project, and I'm in my office looking at videos to see what I'm missing, or doing wrong.

I'm making sure that the tab on the upper edge of the pump assembly is going into the slot of the serrated ring, but whenever I'm trying to hold down the pump (it's strongly trying to pop-up), and simultaneously trying to get the locking ring to catch threads, it cocks sideways and I lose my grip.

What am I doing wrong? I've never ever had a problem installing an in-tank pump before, but it's happened now.:banghead:

X5 stalled/set codes while being inspected!
 

It sounds like you don’t have the foot in the notch at the bottom

Also, are you putting the ceiling ring on the pump assembly before installing?

–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

exactly
 

I don't know if it's in the notch in the tank, but this time when I removed the "ceiling ring on the pump assembly" and put it on the rim first, then I was able to start the threads (still using some force to hold it down, but not as much as I had been using), and was able to tighten the pump down (brass drift and BFH).

I watched a YouTube video by TRQ "How to Replace Fuel Pump Assembly 2000-2006 BMW X5" https://youtu.be/asqvlLFTAng, which was the first I saw placing the rubber seal on the rim of the tank. I had installed it before taking it outside for installation. Who knew that it would make such a difference?

The X started right up, no delay, and the fuel gauge needle went straight up to full (not past full as it usually does on a full tank). However, my tank isn't full, so I'm gonna need to reset something. The sender arm went straight in, with no interference, so I don't think there's a problem with it.

Good to see you got it running!

Nice! I was about to post the same video. Drive it like you stole it! :bmw:
Report back the new fuel trims!

The video guy didn't install the new pump!

Yes, the ring goes on the tank NOT the pump. Take it out one more time to check the sender and your work and look for open or short (I think open is full but you can verify that by unplugging the connector) I've never had to reset or recalibrate anything.