Sitting in the X5 right now, after topping up the battery. Engine cranks strong, no start.

I pushed in the Schrader valve, before charging, and there was no pressure at all, as I expected, since the engine had obviously run out of gas (now that I had time to think about it).

Perfectly quiet inside, no sounds outside, so I should have been able to hear the pump relay click on. The fuel pump, of course would need the relay to trigger it, so next thing is to pull the glovebox, and replace the relay. Unless there's a master fuse somewhere.

I have a Chinesium power probe substitute that I might be able to power up the pump itself, bypassing the relay. Never used it, so I'm afraid I might short out something.

I'm going back inside, and ill examine wiring, fuses, and relays.


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Check with a test light or multimeter to see if you are getting power to the fuel pump and go from there.

humor me, I'm old
 

The way I'm reading the "Fuel System Troubleshooting" diagram (Bentley), all I have to do is apply 12v to the white/blue wire going into the pump motor. I can supply 12v via my power probe clone. I'll use a wire-piercing probe so I don't even have to unplug the pump. The pump should respond, shouldn't it?

this way, I can eliminate power supply problems coming from F47 and the relay. According to my fuse & relays chart, there's also a F51 (tagged 009) supplying the system, too. Where the heck is it located, if i need to check it later?
Attachment 85110

The best way is to start at the pump, just takes a few minutes to get to and much more likely the problem is under the seat than the relay or fuse.

I've got the seat out, just formulating my next step.

The 2 big wires are + and- for the pump, the 2 small ones are for the sender. Take the plug off (retainer slides back) and it might be obvious if you have a burnt connector.

Fuel pump is RH(passenger side)

:thumbup:

Burnt connector has shown up on xo recently.

Apply power to the pump directly. If you get pressure at the rail it should start.

If no pressure at the rail/no pump noise it's likely the pump itself.


–awr–

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Ok, will do. If the pump runs, then look at the green fuel pump relay 61368373700, & fuse #47 next? I just saw a video where they replaced a sky-blue DDE relay 61366915327 in the E-box. Is that a possibility, or am I reaching here?

I was hoping that it was a fuse
 

I think we have a winner (for diagnostics, not for my pocketbook). I used my generic Power Probe alternative
Attachment 85112
to apply power (12.6vdc) to the pump's positive terminal (where the white w/blue stripe wire attaches), and the ground wire/alligator clip to the pump's negative terminal (where the thicker brown wire attaches).

I tried several times (while using my multimeter to confirm that voltage was being applied), with no result. No sound, no vibration, no nothing from the pump.

Now, I'll be shopping for a replacement pump.

By the way, it looks like this pump has been there for many years, judging by the accumulation of dirt and dead spiders on top of the pump, and under the seat. I'll never know if it was the original, even after I pull it and clean it.

In my experience, I have had to replace in-tank fuel pumps only three times before: on my '86 S-10 in 1999 (at 200k miles), on the '98 GMC 1500 twice (mileage not recorded), and in 2000 and 2004? (I helped do it, when the truck belonged to a friend). The GMC is still on its' third pump, after 21 years and now at 186k miles, go figure. With the disparity in longevity of those first three pumps (13, 2, and 2 years) I have no idea of whats normal for these pumps.

My '09 Chevy HHR Panel and my '04 Chevy 2500HD pickup are (knock-on-wood) still on their originals, at 185k and 141k miles, respectively, as a point of reference. So if the '01 E53 has made it to 212K miles on the OEM pump, that's pretty good!