Got the two rear door pods on. Eventually going to order new black side door protector trims as these got pretty beat up removing the adhesive residue. They are really designed to be one time use. Check out how much adhesive tape is used! I ordered 2 15ft rolls... going to order more after typing this because there is still A LOT of stuff on this kit that uses tape.

https://i.postimg.cc/sX4tnhsw/20.jpg

Before:

https://i.postimg.cc/FFJgnjyD/18.jpg

After:

https://i.postimg.cc/br64PfGn/21.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/fyW11RbZ/22.jpg

I'm getting pretty anxious now... I'm really digging it. :D I've got an interesting idea that I am going to pursue after getting the whole kit on too... we'll see how that goes. Will elaborate if it looks possible.

Major maintenance day, two days to get all of this done actually:

Cooling: belts, bunch of hoses, t-stat, rad, expansion tank, tank mount, trans cooler.

OFHG: viton seal, vanos line

CCV: cold weather version, all hoses, cold weather dipstick and o-ring

Other: Valve cover gasket, plugs, intake boot, air filter

All went fine, until I went to refit the trans cooler lines. They seemed to seat, and sort of "clicked" but I could pull them back off with moderate force. These lines use the dreaded quick release connectors on the ends. I have the little $20 Assenmacher (copy) tool to release them, and they came off no problem.

I pulled both lines back off and had a good look at them; inside the fitting is a spring steel collar with 4 notched teeth that grab the raised ring on the cooler itself. The plastic outer collar releases these teeth when compressed. After staring at it for 10 minutes to figure out how it worked, I discovered the teeth were bent outward too far. I carefully bent each one inward with a pick and they snapped back on with an audible "click". Couldn't pull them off.

Simple fix, and a reminder to grab each line and give it a good pull to ensure they are REALLY seated.

I changed a blinker. Just "check lic plate" left to deal with, then the SES light..and transmission rebuild.

Can anyone point me to a link for the 20 pin round female to 16 pin male adapter for my laptop? I found one on eBay with the description correct, but photo wrong. Seller has not responded in 3 days, so here I am.

I have a 20 pin round to OBD2 connector cable (new) you can have but you pay the shipping.

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Just shot you a message! I'm game if it's the right one. :)

My understanding is that you don't need the 20-pin adapter, even on the early cars, as long as the 20-pin cover is installed and you add a single wire to this cover. Then ALL the modules in the car can be reached via the 16-pin interface.

See this thread... (and specifically, Overboost's post about the cover mod... post #9)

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...t-working.html

Right, but as I understand it - no e53 - or at least my 2002 - does not have the round 20 pin under the hood, only OBD2 inside, which is why I need the adapter - unless Im missing something.

Sorry - my bad - I didn't read your post carefully. You have a laptop cable that only connects to a 20-pin socket and you want an adapter the will allow you to use this cable with the 16-pin interior port?

That's a rarity... it's usually the other way around. I guess you have some history with older Bimmers....

Easier to get a new cable?

And yeah, the very early e53 cars had the 20-pin as well as the 16-pin. The internal 16-pin did emissions only. This was changed in early 2000 sometime... to 16-pin for everything....

Changed July 2000. Wife's 01 has the 20 pin port build date of 7/00 mine is 5/01 build date and only 16 pin. Very annoying to need to use the inner hood port for most things on Lumba2.

I read the is a trick to jumper pins to use the 16 pin port on the older models anybody know?


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Yep - see the link I posted above (referring to OB's post #9).