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got a royal shower in the carwash the other day, so gave remounting the plastic splash guard in the back of the window another go. Seems to stay in place now, hoping that will sort my leak. Though reluctant to try another wash cycle :D
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/p19yko08gu...ison.JPG?raw=1 |
I bought a set of the European mirrors today. (Ordered anyway)
Went to get fuel and cracked another rim.... $70 USD for tig welding [emoji849] Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk |
FCP delivered a set of new lower control arms and tie rods (inner and outer) last week so I figured I'd "pop them on" in the driveway today. To save time I didn't replace either when I had the motor out but have still been getting a little shimmy and bounce in the steering wheel on braking and over bumps. A new double joint a couple months ago made things a whole lot better, but I am still getting vibrations in the steering wheel under braking.
I'd forgotten what a pita it can be to get the lower control arms out, but finally succeeded in doing so after too much time monkeying with the floor jack under the hub and lots of leverage and pounding. I had thought that the control arms had to be torqued on the ground, but Bentley says to fully tighten both ends up on the jacks. I guess it is only the tension struts that have to be done on the ground. At any rate, its is pouring rain now and I still need to do the final torque. Tie rods will have to wait. I may get lazy and have the indy I go to do them when he does the alignment that will be needed anyway. I took a look around with the wheels off and up in the air. The motor and skid plate are still bone dry thankfully, but I do have evidence of fluid on the subframe under the left inner tie rod boot/end. All the banjo bolts in the area look dry, so I'm hoping it isn't the rack. I'm going to wipe it down and check it when I do the brakes in a few months. I've made some messes since the motor swap, like forgetting to fully torque the oil pressure sensor on the filter housing before the first start of the new motor, so hopefully its just older fluid from one of these instances. I was going to replace the rack when I did the swap, but was running low on time, money and patience. Beyond that the X is running strong. Yesterday I drove out to see a friend with a custom shop and a little extra room and begged for a little space in the corner to move the 4.4 I pulled out of the X into. My goal is to rebuild it into a "M60TUB44", if I can find some good heads from an M60 motor and shove it into something fun like an E30 or E28. I love the raked noses on those cars. |
I got my gauge cluster fixed! No more dead pixels!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f57080d1_c.jpg |
Sold it. :(
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Scored a Compass/Auto Dim mirror and a working stereo display at the Pick and Pull on Saturday! $27 total :thumbup:
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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
Replaced Ole’GiRL’s intake filter. PITA job.. :rolleyes:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...33747fdabf.jpg She was definitely overdue! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e8a8228af7.jpg Engine detail is next on the list of to do’s. E53 RiPPeR XOuTPoST jUNkiE ReVELaTiON 22:21 |
6 Attachment(s)
Replaced the cam seals and the Engine Crankcase Vent Valve on the 4.8is
Easy jobs w/lots of plastic parts so easy does it. Took 2 hrs including cleaning all the covers and reinstalling them. You will need lots of 1/4 drive ratchets (mini ones) and extensions, the bolts are eTorx (Male) so go buy a set of female torx sockets. Plan on lots of use of the little ratchets to get under the A/C line and under the heater hoses - Driver's side is especially tight. A clean engine bay makes the job easy and clean up a snap. |
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Super clean too. Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk |
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