That seems like a good idea being that the door handle carriers could be considered a normal wear part in these cars. My driver's door handle broke in the winter so I'm about to do same job soon but I have already bought an OEM handle. First one to broke in this car while I've owned it. I see you have used lithium? grease for the spring part, which makes me wonder if there is a way to avoid getting the handle stuck during freezing temperatures?

Also this, Andrew, could you give me the link? I remember seeing it in the forum at some point but couldn't find it any more.

Today it was just a wash for the X.

What did you do to / for your E[emoji2[emoji2391]9[emoji2391]][emoji2391] today??
 

Advance search my user name: andrewwynn and topic awr-fix

I have an icloud slide show with over a dozen photos because it includes how to repair a worn motor as well as freeze-proof the thing.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...or-repair.html

Actually i found it. But the search above will find most of my repair threads.

The problem and solution for frozen handles is covered in the DLA repair.

A sliding metal part will freeze solid to the body of the latch assembly woth one single drop of water which usually gets there from condensation.

Some Teflon and low tempn grease eliminated that issue.

BMW thought the cable was freezing and the fix was to add a little rubber nipple at the top. Did nothing as everyone who had their door handle freeze is aware.

Never had a tweaked handle freeze no matter the weather.

Fantastic, thanks! Your fix is cleaner. I'll use it to fix the driver side actuator that I'd replaced with new. Lucky, I didn't throw it away. I know the new one will eventually fail ;). Yep, I used low temp silicon grease (the white stuff) on the passenger side. The car sits outside and in winter it can go down to freezing temps in Seattle area.

Very nice, thanks! I think you should post a video of your fix in YouTube. The drill method is all over YouTube mainly Eastern European. Your fix is definitely cleaner, smarter and preferable. I wish I knew about it earlier.

Yep, I used low temp grease. The car sits outside. It's available at Amazon for around $9.

Thanks. Yes i did the wire thing first i think i may have had to make a tiny groove to fit the wire through but it was very clean. It was just a little harder to manipulate the wires though over and over.

Version two used nylon zip tie very easy very fast but reliability concern and a little spongy feeling.

Version three is unbeatable. It's tricky to set the spring. I should make a video because there is a trick that makes it go from 7/10 to 3/10 difficult.

When using knock off DHC it's important to confirm the spring doesn't stick out! It'll scratch the glass there's only 2mm clearance!

And: if the original cable is in good shape keep it. (that's if you don't Judy repair it).

O think bmw finally fixed the handle carrier i never hear of them breaking on the e 70.

Good heads there on knock off DHC. The original cables were surprisingly intact for a 20-year-old car (bought it CPO in 2007). I greased it a little though. Yeah, I wouldn't trust the zip tie technique for reliability. The spring is under very high tension, and I don't think the zip tie would hold up under repeated use over summer heat and winter low temps. By the way, while at it, I also replaced the plastic clips that hold the window glass on the window lifter - they were broken! The front door ones are black, and the rear door ones are white and smaller (different part numbers). I was also shocked to find some of the screws (4 of them I think) on the window lifter mechanism were loose! After all these fixes, the doors now close solid and with a heavy BMW thump. Now closing the doors don't sound like an old car, whether the windows are up or down.

Yep. I have an F15 and an F86 and never had that problem. Interesting that my old 1997 E39 and E92 never have these problems. The E39 is one solid car all around!

Just looked up and e70 is not remotely similar to the e53. Whew!