Replaced front sway bar drop links (no more clunking woooohoo!), got new wheels and tires, and had an alignment done. Also washed the outside, and cleaned and detailed the inside. You guys weren't kidding when you said the tan interior is hard to keep clean :rofl: But with the sway bar links fixed, and with heavier wheels and tires, I can now feel that the front control arms are probably the next thing I'll need to replace. D'oh.

That link says it's for E36? Does the X5 use the same shocks? :yikes: I've considered replacing my subframe bushings, but I gather there's not really a need to unless they're so worn out that it causes the rear end to be unstable.

Dillon this is the Meyle HD bushings (x4) you need for your subframe:

BMW Axle Support Bushing Rear (X5) - Meyle HD 33316770454 | FCP Euro

If you are over 120k I'd recommend it, you definitely will feel a difference in the rear end. If you need the tool I have it for rental as well as another member, although it will be going to TwinTurboGTR soon and he will be sending out future rentals, I will be just coordinating for them.


As for the tan interior I hope you are using a really good cleaner on the interior, seats, door panels etc, my personal favorite is 1Z Deep Plastic Cleaner, use it before applying any interior plastic/leather protectant.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/1Z-ei...ner_p_106.html

Typically use Meguiar's Interior Detailer / Cleaner for the small stuff (to wipe the dust off basically), and simple green on plastic parts that get streaks on them easily. For the seats and other leather or vinyl pieces, I use Lexol or Mothers VLR. The VLR especially works well, but I will have to try 1Z for plastic parts, 'cause simple green isn't the most pleasant smelling thing in the world. Plus, I need something like that for another car I have which before I owned it, was smoked in and sat outside with the windows down a lot :rolleyes:

The 1Z plastic cleaner is definietly a straight up cleaner, simple green on the interior is ok but even diluted I couldn't deal with the chemical like smell.

The great thing about the DPC from 1Z is that it is a perfect cleaner for all interior plastic, vinyl, and leather surfaces, prior to treating with Lexol or Mothers VLR (which would be more along the lines of a last step product/conditioner after all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned)

Willing to talk detailing with you anytime, just shoot me a pm if you need anything

Finally time for a transfer case and engine oil change. Now with the 100 degree days showing up and the annual big towing trip to Arkansas coming up it was time for the "M" weight oil as well. My how that engine runs smooth with the good stuff in it!

2002 X5 3.0 260,259 miles
2004 325i 115,000 miles

Well, not today, but during our last trip to Ukraine, I had the followings done on my X5.

1. Changed oil, oil filter, and brakes fluid. Cleaned the air filter.
2. The starter motor started acting wierd, so I had it rebuild.
3. The driver's door handle stopped working. A clever mechanic repaired the mechanism with a piece of steel wire, he installed in the mechanism. The handle doesn't sit well on the door, on the outside, so I guess, I'll have to replace the internal part at some time, when the steel wire breaks.
4. Replaced the front antisway bar links and the two ball joints.
5. Going through Bulgaria, I replaced the tires with four new Bridgestone Duellers. Having to change them on a Saturday, didn't give me a lot of options (I would prefer Michelins), but the Bridgestones feel quite nice, so I am happy with them.

Now, if I could find a cost-effective way to fix the aux fan and my mirrors........

Only have enough time to complete the front suspension overhaul. The rear would have to wait for the coming up Sat. The lower ball joints were really stuck on there good, after 110k miles. One of the control arm was replaced at some point since it has different bushing type on it. The big control arm on the passenger side slide off center. No wonder why it feels difference recently.

Wow the whole bushing shifted out of the thrust arm?

More like the arm slid to the side and only stop by the metal frame there. Crazy right?

today I finally put back on my passenger side door card, I now have a complete , x5 :):):)

Considering most people have reported having to use a 15Ton press to press the bushings out it just amazes you at what kind of force are on those bushings, that is nuts!

After second look, your right... :o

Painted my calipers black over the weekend.

Which Dueler did you go with? I just put some H/L 400 RFTs on, as I found a great deal on some barely used ones that I couldn't resist, even though I don't like buying used tires. The guy I bought them from told me that these are OE on newer X5s, but I'm not sure about that.

I haven't had a car with run flats before, and I'm not sure what to think yet. They are HEAVY. Added at least 5 lbs. to each wheel, and I felt the difference instantly. However, right after I got them mounted, I managed to get a flat :rofl: Miles from the nearest tire shop, so it was nice to be able to drive home. They are also relatively quiet and should last me a long time. I hope their grip in the snow is OK...in a few months that will be the ultimate deciding factor on whether I keep them or not.

No covers, these are modded cts-v rotors and calipers (brembos) w/ hawk pads and custom brake lines. I built the kit myself. slightly bigger rotor but the whole set-up (even with the cheapo one-piece rotors) saves about 15lbs per corner and the rotor is about an inch bigger. And they cost about 1/5 the typical BBK. Ill get some other pics soon

^ DIY write-up is better than any pics ;)

a quick synopsis of what is entailed to build these...CTS-v rotors and calipers. The rotors need to be machined to accept the x5 hub...bolt pattern is the same 5 on 120mm and retaining bolt will need to be drilled/chamfered. the calipers can be mounted one of 2 ways, both require machining. the simpler way I did was to machine the mounting tabs down to clear the spindle, drill and tap for 5/8 bolts in the caliper in the new bolt locations. machine/drill brake tabs on spindle to 5/8, machine a .667 stand-off for the proper offset. The other method will require more machining of the caliper and to build them into a radial mount...i may still do this but im feeling lazy on this project now as it works great currently. you will need a 10mm banjo for the caliper to -3 braided line to -3 to 10mm single flare to adapt to the factory brake line. Clearances with a 20" wheel were close with the knock-off wheels but have plenty with the my new wheels factory wheels. Total cost was about $500 and about 8 hrs time....mostly measuring and fitting.
The only pic i have during the fit-up
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9a2b9c2b.jpg
new satin finished wheels....same wheel as before just much nicer looking
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps718d960a.jpg

Fuel pump is in. It was easy & I would have been pissed if I spent 80 bucks on the retaining ring removal "tool".

Immediately the gauge that had been at just over 1/8, with the light on & the display showing 38 miles remaining went to just under 1/4 with 53 miles remaining, no light.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psee7d9304.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4b9631d0.jpg

DilloninCo, I do not remember by heart, I'll have to look at them later, but they were not the run-flats. Since it was Saturday when we had them replaced, we didn't have many options. Although, even if we had, I doubt I would select the run-flats, I am too old fashioned for these.

Very impressive, mate. You've certainly done your homework here. I reckon you could sell these as a kit to people and be rewarded for your work. :thumbup:

E30 -

How's that Avic Treating Ya. How are you playing / connecting your phone for music (assuming iPhone).

Fuel pump was easy one like I said. Glad it worked out. I did mine at 110 just as PM.

New:
-NGK Iridium IX plugs
-Aux input
-BMW floor mats
-BMW valve stem caps
-Dinan license plate frame
-wheel center caps
-BMW leather cleaner and conditioner(smells like new leather:thumbup:)

& a good wash

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5951a768.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0c64db45.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14847f65.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9e38371e.jpg
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http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09295991.jpg
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http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...psd495f325.jpg
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Nice.

four.8, good stuff man. Might want to pass on the anti-seize if intended to use with those NGK's.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Love the 8000NEX, sounds great, much better than the APPRADIO3 it replaced.

It can attach via HDMI through a lightining adapter or Bluetooth. HDMI allows screen sharing but right now via Pioneer's program it stinks. There is a jail break app that does it perfectly but does not work with ios 7. Right now I have it attached by BT waiting for Carplay.

The pump almost installed it's self.

Thanks man!
It's a copper based anti seize and I only used a very small amount on the last 2-3 threads that's it..reason being the fact that the old ones were really stuck in there ..I was also very careful when tightening ..thx for the link man!

I put a tiny dab on mine when installing last year too, no issues, but if globbed on I could understand it being an issue.

four.8, lookin fresh man! Awesome how the new center caps and valve stems make a difference right? Now you've reminded me I need new center caps on my 168's as well. Glad to see you went with the new BMW mats as well to really spruce it up inside!

Looks great, 4.8. The blue ones certainly do look nice. I'll follow your anti-seize tip when I do the plugs this Fall/Winter o/a 100k miles.

Got lots done and good stuff.

Thx RB the new center caps and stem caps do make a big difference..; the mats really refreshed the interior...small stuff like this makes the car more enjoyable; now I'm contemplating what to do next...:)

Love the Color!

Sure thing man ! The gap on my old plugs was over 0.050 and the new ones pre-gapped at 0.042..
Dealer said 0.044 is recommended for my engine..
Good luck with yours !

More to come!:)

Haha you have all the reasons in the world to love it:)how's yours treating you?
Mine is due to a detail!

Replaced both pre-cat O2 sensors when the heaters failed at 260,447 miles!

2002 X5 3.0 260,590 miles
2004 325i 115,000 miles

Mine is happy and fun. Wash and detail every weekend. Low mileage each week.

Panorama sun/moon roof started acting stupid so I pulled the fuse as I NEVER use it. It would open on its own driving down the highway :yikes:
Everything else has been predictable due to normal wear and tear.
Super clean always, so one can eat off the engine bay.

Love this ride, love the push on hard acceleration, love the comments that people I work with thinks it is new....:rofl: Clean=new !!!

Yeah it's funny when people do that...now only if we could sell them the same way we would probably get rich over night :D

I still love getting the "wow you make a lot of money to afford a bimmer" comments even though it's 11 yrs old

I gave a guy a ride last month. He got in & said woah someone makes too much.

lol

These came in today. Super stoked to start a headlight project with themhttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...1f38669c56.jpg

Keep an eye on eBay people they are still around :)

My friends and neighbors are snobs. They ask me when I'm going to upgrade to a new model when I add or upgrade parts on my car. :mad:

RB, those new headlights looks nice. Post some photos after you got them installed.

I need to email fishcake again. He didn't respond to my led ballast inquiry.

[email protected]? He usually gets back to me pretty quick

Yep, Lee. I'll resend.

that is when you throw at them some techno mumbo-jumbo - like, this car has so much horsepower, the anti-roll bars are so many millimeters, this and that, the exterior design was penned by so and so, the weight distribution on tight turns lets you go at X speed... by doing so, you show them that you own this car not for having a new bimmer every year (my wife gets new one every year, because she is a consumer), but because you are true enthusiast, and this is not a refined upscale soccer mom hauler but a driver's car like the E30 was... and when the BMW comes up with another drivers' hit, you will consider updating (update and upgrade are two different things)...

i know what a snob neighbors are - i had a neighbor in Moscow who was chauffeured around in a Bentley, he used to say hi, but when he saw me changing my summer setup for winter setup, he stopped even looking at me...

good riddance - as they say in Russia - "баба с возу - кобыле легче" once a woman off the carriage, it is easier on the horse, meaning that his approval or disapproval did not mean nothing in the first place...

carry on...:thumbup:

Good points! Haven't done that. I have had the same SA since I purchased my X5 new. I asked around to find out who was a motor head so that I was less likely to have the problems mentioned. Alone the way he went to work at another dealer. I followed him because he knew my X5. I have done my own work since the warranty expired but still stop by and see him when I am picking up parts or I want to bounce something off him or so he can take me to a tech to get input on something I am doing.

Same type of guy who doesn't blink at dropping $50-$60k on a Tahoe or F150 platinum b/c the payments are good.

Normally, I have two retorts to these type of people: 1) Yeah, that 8 years of college paid off! or b) You can have one too, there are lots for sale on craigslist for $8k -$12k.

Neither is guaranteed to shut them up, but it does, for a split second, make them think...or not.

gave the car a really good wash, then when I was polishing it I placed my hand on my passenger rear window, and it slid down :)

This was the culprit
new one being ordered,.
on the good side I now have an uber shiney x5 :):)

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Gave her a new serpentine belt and A/C compressor belt. It's been 3 1/2 years and probably 40k miles since they were replaced, and I figured I'd better not press my luck on it. Belts I took off still looked pretty good, so they'll go in the back of the car as emergency spares, just in case.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice, just take into consideration that old belts might look good but if you stretch them you'll notice little cracks that sooner or later will result in belt breakage.

QUESTION?
 

Im intrigued by the idea of 315s all around, but had a question...one, do you have a pic of them on the x5 and 2, did you put them on the 20-9.5 front wheel..or go with the 10.5 wheel all around Thanks for any insight..

Mine is in the shop, pulling a front hub for likely wheel bearing replacement. Fortunately, does not appear to have CV joint issues. I've notice a 'roar' under speed lately. While in the shop, they are charging the a/c with refridgerant and checking the wheel alignment, particularly the toe in at the back [I don't want the inside tire wear]

10.5

Yeah even though my miles are low (75k currently) I replaced both front wheel bearings last year even though only the right rear was the culprit of the annoying humming sound above 40 mph. I rebooted both axles on the outer joints with GKN Loebro boot kits, they had some cracks on the inner folds but were fine, probably had more life but while the axle was disconnected I did it preventatively.

You might want to consider doing them prevenatively, should only add an hour tops on both sides to do the outer boots and the kits are approx $20 apiece for GKN Loebro (OEM) boots.

LOL... Thanks for the suggestion. :rofl:

having a friend detail it for me ...in the meantime, the Stoptech slotted rotors from Zeckhausen arrived at my door..looking forward to change them!


http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d56511c.jpg
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Hey hey man I'm in the middle of a detailing session too as we speak.

Got about half the car polished with FG400 yesterday and an MF cutting pad, gonna finish it up today and lay down a nice coat of Menz Power Lock.

Looks good.

I'm planning on doing detailing myself instead of taking my cars in. Any pointers on what brand/model polisher and various pad set and compounds to purchase?

I would love to do it myself but I just can't find the time..post some pics of yours after it's done, I'm sure it'll look amazing!

Thanks! I think RB is the better person to ask on this matter..he's got half of the garage filled with detail products haha..also, detailersdomain has some great products if you want to give them a call ..additionally , you can check the detailing forum.i can ask my friend too on what he is using..

These are the best detailing machines hands down!

Cyclo Polishers

Picked up the X5 from the shop. They replaced the bearings in the front right hub [funny, the 'roar' sounded like front left]. Tech said pulling the hub [even with the specialty puller] was a PITA and getting one bearing out was similarly painful. Glad I had the shop do it. Charged the a/c with R134 and all-wheel alignment, with minimum toe in the back, on the fancy alignment machine. Suspension, CV boots otherwise in good shape, though the front ball joints [or control/thrust arms?] were 'tight,' may need new in another year or so. Thrust arms [31 12 6 789 717 & 718][Control arms?] had been replaced at 57k miles. Mine now has 96k miles on it. I need to detail and/or do a good polish wax job on her next [and get aux audio input and bluetooth connected .....]. Front brake job also in the not-too-distant-future. There is always something :)

Hey Junger, yes thanks four8.is for the compliment, I should show a picture of the shelves in my garage.

For a starter set, I would recommend the GG6 Random orbital, it has a ton of power and will accomplish literally all that you need, and random orbitals are very user friendly machines.

I have a GG6 3rd gen I bought from Phil @ Detailers Domain this year, but I also have an original Porter Cable machine I was using for about 9 years, which I still use, I just now have a smaller backing plate on the machine and use it for dedicated 4" pad work (think pillars, headlights etc). All areas you can do with a bigger machine just fine, but I thought since the machine was still working like new I may as well give it a better use!

Don't get confused by the hype about having 10 different polishes, what you need is an aggressive compound for your heavier defects, and a medium or finishing polish that will finish down nicely. I apply my sealant/wax by hand as its therapeutic for me, and its easy, although some prefer by machine.

On my shelf currently as staples:

-Menzerna FG400 (compound), used with an Orange foam pad, OR a microfiber cutting pad from Meg's, the MF cutting pads cut more than the foam but finish EXCELLENTLY, actually I am doing this now on my X5 and its really a 1 step for me as my paint is well maintained

-Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 - You can use this with an Orange pad for a bit more cut, or a Green pad as a final step after the FG400 if you have some hazing

-Menzerna SF4000 - Use with a Green pad after FG400 if needed as a final polish, similar to Sonax 4/6. Honestly you could pick either the 4/6 or the SF4000 and be fine.

For a Sealant/Wax you probably have a favorite, stick with it. I currently use Menzerna Power Lock as well as Sonax Polymer Net Shield, and I also have a bottle of Collinite 845 on my shelf.


I'd recommend this kit from Phil, as he includes the 5" vented backing plate and the 5.5" foam pads, you'll get a bit more correction power with 5" pads as opposed to 6".

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Griot...Kit_p_683.html

I'd get 2 Orange pads, 2 Green pads, and probably a Yellow Pad, although I don't use the yellow or blue pads barely ever. Also throw in a set of these into your cart.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Megui...ack_p_553.html

The MF cutting pad will be the most aggressive with the FG400, but finishes down GREAT. Always start with Orange foam with FG400 and if you need more cut, throw a Meg's pad on. I always make sure to have 2 fresh pads PER step as a bare minimum, working clean always gets you better results. And this goes without saying, make sure you spend a ton of time decontaminating the paint with clay and/or an Autoscrub mitt (I use both) before even starting to polish.

After 11 years of age and 4 years being owned in NYC suburbs I have some deeper RIDS I can't get rid of without going really aggressive and risk removing too much paint, but I'm at about 90% correction now. Will post of pics of my "late summer/early fall" detail when completed, I got a late start this year because of house work.

I don't want to clog the thread up but if you need some detailing tips shoot me a pm, or feel free to email our sponsor [email protected], he's great at recommending products as well.



EDIT: Although I agree with TiAgX5 that the Cyclo is a great machine and Made in the USA to boot, for a beginner and at half the price for a starter kit including pads, the GG6 is the option I recommend for people just getting into machine polishing.

RB, you are too much . . . that said, thanks for the nice summary polishing/waxing kit ....

I have done the A-Z detailing a few times. I thought I would like doing it but I don't and found a professional that uses a wheel daily does a much better job than I do. I do like maintaining it between the annual detail (the polish smells great and brings back great memories) but that's it. Point is to be sure you are going to be comfortable using a buffer and enjoy the process. In retrospect I should have borrowed what I needed and tried it first. Buffer sits on my detailing cart with all the right products gathering dust or drying out.

repaired my rear passenger window regulator :)

Bought it
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psv9tokxcy.jpg

Just don't let your section dry out or you will burn the paint.

Joshdub, what did you get? details and pictures, man, get with it!

First please realize that this is an all day job to do right, especially for a first timer. Detailing takes time and effort. Make sure you have the right temperament to take it on before investing in a ton of product.

Rupes is a good polisher too according to a buddy in VA who is a professional detailer. Porter Cable doesn't have enough grunt to get the job done easily (of course I have the PC from years and years ago).

I could not agree more on the Sonnax 4/6. Awesome stuff, though a bit persnickety to remove (think olden days w/the real Zymol waxes...). So easy to lay down and pretty much amateur proof too.

Towels are extremely important and you can't cheap out here and get the 24 pack of microfiber towels from Costco and expect good results. Buy detailing towels from Detailer's Domain or AutoGeek.net. Look for sales as they seem to have them all the time (discount codes in the forums, etc.).

I have learned that after I've put in a ton of effort polishing things to within an inch of their life I don't want to have to do it again anytime soon. I use a ceramic coating (cQuartz) as my sealant. Lasted 2 years on my 2011 M3 (in Vegas, mind you). I'm using up old sealants and the X5 is the equivalent of a rented mule in the garage (it gets beaten on), so for now it just gets the Chemical Guys sealant (good stuff, just doesn't last as long as the cQuartz does).

Good luck!

We finally got home an hour ago. A 03 5spd popped up on CL last night at a dealer roughly 3 hours away. It was after hours and they didn't open until 10:30 am this morning. We decided to chance it and drive down today without even getting a chance to talk to them first. Turns out they literally just got the car yesterday. Long story short, we swooped it up and headed back home.

It is silver on black, leather, cold weather, sport everything, xenons, nav/premium sound, and the upgraded climate controls. It has a couple flaws, but at the price we got it for they are easily fixable. Ill post pictures after I am done detailing it tomorrow or Friday. Time to dig in!

AWESOME JOSH!

I'm sure all are minor fixes, she sounds loaded which is GREAT!

Wow. Thanks RB for detailed suggestions. :beerchug: Paint on all my cars are well maintained so I don't think I need anything for cutting. I'm afraid I might cut into the paint too much. However, I like to take care of light swirl marks and to polish with deep shine. Which pad would work best for light swirls? Orange? Or green will do? And thanks for the link. I'll pickup the kit from Detailers Domain. :thumbup:

I don't mind putting in some elbow grease on my cars. I actually enjoy it. Labor of love. LOL... But I'll see how well it turns out. :)

Congrats! Lets see some photos. :)

Yeah. Since I'm new to this and don't want to damage the finish, I plan on some test areas before I go all out.

Junger,

you will NOT burn the paint with a random orbital, its impossible to do. The pad will stop rotating before you have a chance to, that is the beauty of orbitals is that they have the power to correct but since they are not forced rotation they will not burn paint if left in the spot too long or too much pressure is on the pad (with enough downward force the pad will stop, unlike a rotary)

For light swirls and a deep shine I would pick up either the Sonax 4/6 or the SF4000 and both the Orange and Green pad, start with green and make a pass and if you don't get your desired results then go to Orange.

However, FG400 although its a compound will not "take off too much paint" but is sometimes needed to get more effective cutting action. To take off enough clearcoat you'd have to be doing some heavy duty compounding with a wool pad on an orbital, and since Menzerna polishes use SMAT abrasives, the abrasives break down and won't cut any further when broken down. Which is why I recommend Menzerna polishes for a beginner/intermediate as opposed to the Pro line Meguiar's polishes like M105 and M101/100, because Meg's uses DAT abrasives, which don't break down, so you could be continually abrading paint as long as your machine it on.

For example I had some really stubborn water spots in the paint from winter, I made a pass with Sonax 4/6 and an Orange pad and they were about 50% better, but still there. I made one pass with MF cutting pad and FG400 and they were GONE.

You may want to pick up a bottle of FG400 and some MF cutting pads in case you have some heavier isolated defect areas to correct which might not come out with a medium finishing polish. However without seeing your car I couldn't say. In my example above, the one pass I made with FG400 and an MF cutting pad would have taken me 4-5 passes or more with Sonax 4/6 and an Orange pad. Same results just less time.


Point is always start with the least aggressive method regardless to tackle defects, but I like to have the option of going more aggressive if needed.

Thanks RB. I’ll pickup what you suggested. However, looks like Detailers Domain is out of stock on the kit (out of orbital polisher). Turner Motorsport has the same orbital polisher for $129. I’ll just purchase the pads and the compounds from Detailers Domain and pickup the orbital polisher from Turner.

Nice man, yeah Phil just had a 2 day 20% off sale so I'm sure a ton of his inventory is out of stock now. However I do recommend sending him an email with an eta on new shipment [email protected] because the kit I linked has the machine (which comes with 6" backing plate), Phil includes the Vented 5" backing plate with the kit as well, and the 5 5.5" foam pads. I like polishing much better with 5.5" pads than 6.5" personally. If you buy the machine from Turner you would have to buy the 5" plate, 5.5" pads and polishes/compounds separate from Phil. I think the backing plate alone Phil sells for $28 which is why I recommend the kit since he does a nice bundled price for all.

Shoot me a PM if you ever need to talk detailing. The Uber foam pads are some of the highest quality I've ever used, as long as they are cleaned well they will last for years.

He said mid Sept. I found 10% off coupon so the difference comes out ~$25 or so; so no big difference...

I picked up following from Detailers Domain:

Uber 5 inch Vented Dual-Action Hook & Loop Backing Plate
Menzerna SF 4000 aka Super Finish PO106FA Pint
Menzerna FG 400 - Fast Gloss Compound Pint
Meguiar's 5" DA Microfiber Cutting Disc 2-Pack
Uber Green Pad 5.5 inch polish pad 2-Pack
Uber Orange Pad 5.5 inch medium polish pad 2-Pack

And orbital polisher from Turner.

I'll shoot you PM if I have questions. Thanks for your help RB.

Congratulatons!

Solid haul Junger! You will enjoy the machine that's for sure!

Thanks guys.

I ended up only really cleaning the interior today. Pulled out all of the seats and went cleaned. The PO's were slobs but at least they didn't ruin anything. Found a few bucks in quarters under the rear seat, some old toys and tons of food. Pretty sick. But it has been sufficiently cleaned now with conditioned seats. I am really glad we ended up with the sport package. That black headliner and those seats are sweet.

I had to buff out the headlights as they had tons of haze. They came out alright for now, but I'll probably tackle them again soon. Otherwise all I was able to get to was just a wash and clay. The rest will have to come tomorrow.

Before headlight buff (notice the wood, hood struts needed a little assistance, new ones in the mail)
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psotfio94d.jpg

Almost done (forgot to take after final polish)
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...szlqf6m96.jpeg

After a wash

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...pswpwjwnhv.jpg

And a locally made key chain to replace the dealer tag

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psb0usbfuy.jpg


Anyway, busy day. If the weather holds up maybe I'll get more stuff done tomorrow. For now I am burning cds for music (what is this, 2003?)

Well done, Josh! I like E53s in silver, and the five spoke wheels look best on them. You can add the auxilary input to plug in an mp3 player if you aren't 'old skool' enough to be satisfied with CDs [I'm from the cassette 'mix tape' era, recorded from LPs, myself :)]. I think it will work on an 03 sound system. My aux is in the workshop 'to do' bin, possibly to be installed this weekend

Thanks! I was just looking up iPod hook ups last night. I'll have to find how to add aux. I do have the nav and six disc though. But I'd be happy to lose the 6 disc for aux.

'03 with nav probably has AUX prewired - pull the nav monitor out, look for a 3-pin connector taped back into the monitor harness.. if it is there - your AUX is prewired, you just need to plug in the AUX harness and route it where you want, either buy one from ECS, dealer ($30-60) or make one yourself ($5-10 worth of parts)...

The thread on the aux install suggests Joshdub's post-10/02 build should take the aux.
See http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...t-2005-x5.html.

Psh, the harness from ECS is only 33 for those with nav. Totally worth it! Thanks for the heads up.

I wasn't old enough to make mixtapes with cassettes. But I do remember burning a many CDs for my walkman.

You kids today . . . get off my lawn! ;)

Josh you got NAV and SPORT SEATS in yours? Hell of a find!

Man I'm getting old... I remember mix tapes, and making them. BTW... a walkman is for cassettes and a discman is for CD's.:thumbup:

Ricky, is sports seats and nav rare? That's what we ended up getting in our 05 4.4i for what I think was a decent price... I'll get some nice pics and an intro thread up this weekend.

Keeping on topic to the thread... installed LED interior package today. 19 bulbs for $33... not too shabby. Really helps modernize the truck, sorry SAV. ;)

Nav and sports ;)
Hardwired my Passport. Turns on and off with the key.

It blends in so nicely.

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Looks nice. Wish we could get a 6spd with the v8's.

Out of curiosity... anyone done a 540i/6 trans swap into an e53?

@ crystal works

Sport package on the 3.0 didn't include sport seats unless it was checked as it was separate. Sport package on 4.4 models included sport seats automatically though.

I wish I had sport seats and factory Nav on my '03 5spd, but I have sport package, prem pkg, cold weather and rear climate, as well as the highly controversial (either love it or hate it ) 2-axle full air suspension, so I'm not complaining.

Agreed the LED interior bulbs change the vehicle, I have been changing all my cars to LED interior bulbs since I started driving 10 yrs ago

im opposite with led lights, I don't like em on the interior, I had 2 on the rear door lights (bottom of doors) replaced them for normal festoon bulbs
matter of taste tho

Yep, matter of taste. I prefer my bulbs in the 5000 kelvin range... even my household lighting has been converted to 5000 kelvin LED bulbs. The whiter daylight look is much more pleasing to my (and more importantly, my wife's) eyes.

you mention household lights , 90% of my lights are leds, I got rid of all my halogen ones (gu10) as my electricity bills were huuuuge

oh, today, on my car, ive fitted my pet/luggage separator thingy :)

Josh, Good to see that you found the one with the options you were looking for. Looks nice. :thumbup:

today , I took the top of the engine cover off, as it was loose, and found this :)
both my top pcv hoses were absolutely perished :)
going to order a new pcv set from the USofA

steve

oh and later on I read my codes for the first time , and got these after I cleared the old ones :)

ABS -> 5A/D2 - Temporary system deactivation
SRS -> Shadow-memory:
06/40 - Side airbag, front right door, resistance too high
IKE -> BD/50 - Electronic braking-force distribution
PDC -> 22/C6 - Acoustic generator, front, off
BMBT -> 16/21 - EEPROM Checksum does not match with programmed value
LRA -> Shadow-memory:
00/00 - Terminal 30

No symptoms? Didn't smell oil burning or see smoke?

I thought there was a slight smell of oil , but just thought there might have been a little that had dripped onto a manifold or something, no smoke or anything , untowards
NOT a nasty piece of pipe work like that .

Aside from troubleshooting cluster bifecta lights and now my brake lights not going off, I restored the headlights yesterday. They weren't horrible, but they were getting ugly. I'm pleased with the results for now. Also added higher temp bulbs and stealth chrome turn signals thanks to y'all's recommendations.

Also updated the nav software - it was pretty old. As far as the brakes, it has new pads, rotors, and booster. And still haven't gotten them working right yet. Yay.


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2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Did you get fresh D2S xenon bulbs? That will make a huge difference if yours are original!

Finished bringing my X to a swirl free result at 11 years old:

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I would take full pics later but I figured the close up would show the correction better!

Thrillcat - how cloudy were your lights before you began? The reason I ask is that mine look a little cloudy, but am not sure what process I should use as it's not horrid.

Ricky Bobby, I didn't update the Xenons this go-round. I just did the high beams, turn signals and fog lamps. I went with Phillips CrystalVision, which are 4K lights (went with these because I could replace all with the same temp/brand - the source you suggested didn't have all the fitments). They are an improvement, but I do think I would like to go whiter, so I may go to the Phillips Diamond Vision, which are at 5K.

ants_oz, see these pics for what they looked like before. I used the Mother's NuLens kit and was pretty pleased, for $22 and about 90 minutes of my time.

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I ordered a head gasket, of which there were only two in Costa Rica, to replace the one that is cracked which lead to water in cylinder number 4. It has NOT been a good week.

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Thanks Thrillcat, that's awesome. Yours were worse to start with than mine, but the result you got was great. Will def look into it. Cheers mate

Much better result on your lens restoration!

Keep in mind if you want to upgrade your xenon bulbs to new ones and want to "match" if you switched to 5k halogen bulbs you will need 5k xenon bulbs, of which the only OEM set will run you 180 a pair. (Osram CBI)

However if you kept the Philips crystal vision and wanted to put fresh Philips xenons in it would be 74 a pair.

Why so concerned with the color temp of a bulb that is not on so often anyway I wonder? Or did you not code off the DRL? Any higher color temp coated bulb will have SIGNIFICANTLY shorter lifespan if used as drl. If that is the case expect to be replacing the halogen bulbs yearly.

Something to keep in mind, the way I understand it, by doing what I did to the lenses, I've stripped off the UV coating, so they will now worsen faster. I'm looking at methods of recoating them now to avoid having to do this 2/3 times a year.

The Crystal Visions still don't look as white as the Xenons, was hoping perhaps the Diamonds would...maybe not.

I didn't code off the DRLs. I don't have the capability at this point. I'm still new to this vehicle. Teaching myself whatever I can. Learning as much as I can. Trying to get the $*(&% brakes to actually work right so I can have FUN driving it instead of worrying that the brakes are going to cause problems...

If you wanted to make rec's on scanners and software for a noob, I'd totally be listening. Though I'm also a Mac guy, which with things like this usually mean I'd also be looking at buying a PC to run it...right?

Wow that sucks. How did you detect the blown head gasket? Was it blowing white smoke?

Yeah. It was the end of a 3 hour road trip. Car felt fine. Temp needle never moved above half way (where it always is). Never felt a loss of power while I was on the highway but when I got into town and was sitting at a stoplight, I noticed the dreaded white smoke. We tore it town on Friday, measured the head gasket and it was slightly warped (3 thousandths of an inch). Fingers crossed all weekend but they pressure tested it this morning and it has a crack inside, next to cylinder #4. Honestly, I've been expecting something like this would happen ever since I bought the car. That's the only thing that kept me from losing it!

Man, So now you'll be looking for a new head. How many miles on your X? Did they find any antifreeze in the oil, crankcase?

Only 81,000. I've only had it for 5 months. Called the dealership in San Jose. A new one would be $3,564. I found two used ones. One guy wanted $2,400. Not gonna happen. Second guy wants $1,100. Looks like that's the only feasible option at this point. It's a pretty hard "spare" part to come by here. Thankfully there was no coolant in the oil or crankcase.

That's a relief re: oil. $1,100 doesn't sound too bad, have it inspected before you buy it, make sure it's solid. I was looking around eBay for you and found these heads, I hope this helps:
BMW X5 3.0 head | eBay

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately mine is the M57 (3.0 turbo diesel). I'd fly back to the states for one that was only $350, but from what I understand they didn't start selling diesel X5s in the states until much later...

My bad, sorry about that. You may want to try some of the dismantlers in CA. This is the only diesel head I was able to find, unfortunately in the UK.

BMW X5, M57 , E53, 306D1, BARE ENGINE HEAD BLOCK ONLY | eBay

Try UK breakers. Diesel engine X5's are the norm over there.

looking good RB, my friend just finished my X as well..
he advised to maintain the buff that I should hand wax it at least once a month...
On a side note, does anyone know how to remove dents ? Is it possible to do it yourself or do I have to take it in and pay 30-40$ per dent?

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you are correct.use a sealant or lamin-x them.

For the headlight lenses I would use Opti-Lens as it's a more permanent coating.

Four8, looks phenomenal! If you use a high quality sealant you can probably just add a coat every 3-4 months or so, I get about 4 months out of a coat of the Menzerna sealant I use. Traditional natural waxes like carnauba paste wax, etc yes he is correct will need to be applied monthly as their lifespan is shortened greatly compared to a synthetic sealant.

For dent removal I would just pay a pro to do it, well worth it at 40-50 per dent as opposed to monkeying around with it myself. I have 3-4 to remove and plan on hiring a PDR guy to do it

$45-50 per dent. Name your source.
I use Brunos over in Elmwood

My go to guy is great - but he charges per panel....Not really a cost effetive option when you just need 1 dent pulled out.

FourEight, After refurbishing my headlight lenses, I installed the urethane covers, cut to fit our lenses, from Weathertech. They seem to be holding up well.

Thanks for the tip!

How difficult is installation on those, what with the contours of the headlamp? And do they hold up in cold weather?

I was curious, as the Mother's NuLens kit I used came with a 20% off coupon code for those (I think it was these, at least a comparable product), but I always goof those types of products up and wind up with a stupid bubble in the worst possible spot. Hence, I was looking at something I could apply to the lens as a spray or polish.

You use Bruno too? He is the man! Did a good job on Naz's old car, I have to give him a call soon for mine


@thrillcat, Riggo is referring to the Laminx type covers for headlight protection so you won't get any new headlight rash from debris on the roads and such, the Opti-Lens is just a coating so that the UV fading doesn't come back but if you want protection from road debris you should look into the clear film covers, Lamin-X, 3M, and Xpel are all popular brands. If you have a local clear bra installer as well they can apply Paint Protection Film to the lenses, either free-cut or pre-cut.

Looks good. What brand of wax do guys use?

I use Menzerna Power Lock sealant. Topped with Collinite 845 or 916 paste wax occasionally.

The power lock gives me the longevity and durability of a sealant while the Collinite waxes are regarded as some of the best traditional waxes made.

I do not use any waxes or products containing any filling or masking properties as I prefer to see my X as she appears and not put any "makeup" on any imperfections.

RB, what is the purpose of a sealant?My friend said he used a 3 stage 3M product to detail my car..would I need a sealant on top?
ever used the Sonax polymer net shield ?how does it compare to the Menzerna power lock?Any tips on applying the sealant?
Thanks

RB and four.8is, your paint looks really nice. The blue is just awesome.



Today was like Christmas for the X5

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My mailbox was hilariously stuffed.

Got new roundels front and rear from BMW, a ZHP knob (I'll get the non ///M pattern soon), door lock repair kit, and 2014 maps for the nav.

I never had a stock knob on my E30 to compare against the ZHP. Man it makes such a huge difference.

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Fresh roundels look much better compared to the peeling old ones.

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Yes they do, first couple things I did were new roundels (for the key too!)

Four8, to be simple a sealant is a synthetic product made to mimic the shine of a traditional natural wax but be longer lasting and more durable protection in harsher environments.

Your friend probably used the 3M perfect it line, which is a compound, polish, and finishing wax. When he says 3 stage he is talking about paint correction.

You can wax/seal your X from here on out with whatever you'd like, pick your poison. Applying sealant is much like applying wax, apply, allow to haze and then buff residues off by hand. Will leave a super slick surface.

I also have a can of Sonax Polymer Net Shield and I love it because of the durability, but it's a different application method and leaves the surface not as slick to the touch, but it's very dirt/dust repellant and lasts for months. I tend to use it on wheels and door jambs and such right now, as I'm using up some older products on my shelf (I still have a bottle of Power Lock from 2010)

Pm me if you need some tips and/or questions so we don't clog the threads

I have used Liquid Glass as sealant in the past. Recently, I've been using carnauba based wax. Seemed to have better shine.

Alright thanks for the info !
I'm gonna order a bottle of Sonax , I just watched Phil's video from DD on Sonax and all I can say is wow! ; this product beads water like crazy.
Will pm with more questions!thx

I was at Watkins Glen week before last with the 328. Spent 4 days on the track flogging it. They have a thing at lunch and at 5:30 where for $25 you can take whatever you want out on the track behind a pace car. Most car clubs won't allow SUVs on the track, so I figured this would be a good use for $25. Filled the X5 up with the wife and kids and hauled around the track for 3 laps. It handled well, but there were instances where I wanted a down shift and the X5 wouldn't allow it. It has such a sweet note when you wind it out on a track like that. And now it's back to a daily driver......

Cheers.

How fast would they let you go?

:) I had to hang back and caught the pack quickly, but got up around 180km/h past the esses. Now, running the 328 in solo is awesome...

Visited Caesar @ Lightwerkz today for my wife's retrofit and some consultation on my headlight build. He has an AMAZING alpine on caramel E39 M5http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...216c1b9cba.jpg

RB, where did you find roundels for the key fob? Mine has been missing for months now, and I've been wondering where to find a replacement. :dunno:

Ask and you shall receive Gary, looks to be a Genuine BMW part # as well so you can get it from work :)

BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Interior Key Fob - 66122155753 - Replacement Key Fob Roundel Emblem - 11mm - ES#1876203

RB, you da man!!! Where do you find these things? have you got the ECS catalog memorized??? :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Bought it there 2.5 years ago when I bought my X5 all new roundels front and rear and key emblems lol I remember where I buy most of my stuff haha!

Short Schneidmann (sp?) shift kit install...I dig it.

Recently did a front end rebuild including, control arms, thrust bushings, tie rods and ends, a cv boot and front brakes with brembo rotors and pagid blue pads. It drives like a completely different truck.

I grilled out of it today.

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2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

man red looks good on these x5`s.

❤️ imola red

Detailed my X. Thanks RB for your recommendation on the detail kit. Jet Black looks amazing after wash and polish with mirror like finish. :D

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No problem Junger glad you liked, Menzerna makes the best polishes around and the GG6 kit is an awesome value.

What is your LSP of choice?

Gorgeous!


2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Polished my headlights with a 3M kit until I can justify new headlights to the wife. :) Also replaced a burnt out fog light bulb and the good one just in case. Ordered some more Redline for an oil change. Washed it...I think that's it.

Junger -

Don't forget to Optiseal/Opticoat/CQuartz the finish now.

Jungerishere, those wheels... :thumbup:

Just installed my OEM aux input. I am disappointed in the sound quality though. Everything just sounds off while comparing CD to AUX with the same songs. I tried two different cables and it didn't seem to make a difference. Adjusting the equalizer on both the headunit and the phone helped, but it still sounds like the music is coming through a tunnel. I am charging my iPod to see if that makes any difference from my phone (Oneplus One).

No such problems with my aux .it is not CD quality but is up there if you've got the correct format for your files.compare mp3 to mp3 and see if you get the same results?

I am an idiot.

I was streaming music to my phone at "normal" quality. I thought I had downloaded that album to my phone but I was wrong. Switched to music stored on my phone, as well as my ipod and all sounds good.

Today I put the stock driver's side mirror back onto my X. The mirror is the self-dimming, retracting etc version, but it doesn't retract. It was like that when I bought the X and the seller agreed to fix it. Well, they replaced it, but they just put an anti-glare mirror on there. I didn't like the blue tint, especially because it was different from the passenger side, so I got the original mirror back from them and put that on this morning.

While I had the door panel off I replaced some of the plugs that were missing, tightened down the tweeter cover and secured some cabling. I need to replace the strip of weatherstripping along the bottom of the passenger door, but couldn't find any locally.

Then of course I had to take it out and wash it quick since it's a beautiful sunny day for a drive. Cleaned up the windows and vacuumed it out when I got home.

Today was a good day.

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2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^your car looks really nice sir!

Thanks! I still need to have my buddy give it a clay bar and wax/polish, but I do love the look!


2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need some spacers on the rear. it'll look a lot better;)
Did 30mm h&r dra on mine and I never looked back..

Sorry for my ignorance but what is LSP? :) I had to look up the acronym and came up with “last step product”. If that’s what you mean, I’m using Zymol wax on my cars. For X, I applied Zymol Carbon. I have always been very satisfied with Zymol product line.

I applied wax. Zymol Carbon to be exact. Should I be using sealant instead of wax after a polish? Are the spray-on sealant as effective? Thanks...

Looking sharp! Imola Red looks amazing in IS. :thumbup:

I agree with four.8is on spacers in the rear. I went with 25mm instead of 30mm though.

Spacers are something that would take a lot of convincing for me to invest in. It's just never been something where I've seen a vehicle and immediately noticed the difference or even thought 'wow, that looks great'.

This truck has other things to throw cash at before I worry about spacers. ;)

Never used Zymol but yes LSP is a last step product, pick your poison be it a sealant, or a more traditional wax the point is to be protecting your finish when done polishing.

Sealant or a wax works, sealants tend to last a bit longer because they are man made but as long as you reapply when you see the beading dying down you should be fine. Only spray on sealant I've used is Sonax Polymer Net Shield and it works awesome.

jsoto is referring to OptiCoat, CQuartz etc as they are actual coatings that are meant to last years on the finish permanently. It's a popular option for people with daily drivers who want long term protection.

Replaced the door carrier..opening the windows to unlock the car was starting to irritate me.

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Jungerishere
Super job, looks great!!

I have used Zymol system for many years. I put 3 coats of the polish on it every 6 months. The first with a wheel and the others by hand. I finish up with the sealer. I use the gloss enhancer in between the 6 months.

Wow...this is the beginnings of a really nice informative thread that could have turned into a serious go to DIY thread as others chimed in or asked questions that could have spurred greater in-depth procedures to gain access and replace the door carrier (a rather common e53 malady).

But sadly you buried this great information in a 2 year old thread that has over 4000 replies & 430 plus pages about various other topics.

Perhaps you'll consider starting a new thread with this info...so that others that will eventually need to change a door carrier, can find it and gain all the information from everyone asking and responding to this one topic. It's like you tossed nuggets of gold into a mud puddle. :D

For instance, what tools are required, what do you remove first, are there any special tricks...or is it pretty straight forward etc.

Maybe he should try to put some info in this thread from 2008 QS?

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...andle-fix.html

Guys , didn't even think of posting a DIY
I thought there's plenty out there.
Will do it tonight; it's pretty straight forward..just a bunch of screws, and a lot of patience needed.

Just add it to the thread I linked above no need to start a new one, it will bump the old thread and you'll be adding to it.

In one of the threads someone said my steering wheel was not from an M5. This is an M5 with the same wheel.

E39 FS: 2001 E39 BMW M5 Lemans on all black sport leather all stock - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Facelift M5 and M3 wheels are the same wheel, only difference is whether you have tri-color stitching or black stitching.

I followed bavauto's video on how to change it.ill post the link here and in the other thread as well.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D0-HTcupH6U

Bought her some new winter shoes!
Attachment 64315

I thinking of trying CQuartz. I remember seeing Nano coating featured in Discovery or History channel and was very impressed how well it repelled water and other elements.

Thanks...

Thanks... What do you use for glass enhancer?

I have E46 M3 steering wheel on my X. Love the feel and the style of it. E39 M5 (01-03) and E46 M3 (except CSL and Competition Package) steering wheel are the same and came in tri-color only. Black stitching came in Sport models in E39.

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Great idea. Good info with pics...all about the same topic. :thumbup:

Thanks. You can never get too much info about common maladies and DIYs. every picture and write up can bring another perspective, different angles, and sometimes new tips. :)

Junger. Wax is very subjective. Over the years, I've dabbled in nuba's and strayed off to coatings.

Longevity aside, cars stay cleaner with coatings IMO. Nuba's get *sticky* ...

I've got both Opti and CQ on the cars. Top off every now and then with Hydro.
It's been my go-to system for the last 3 years.

I've sold off tons of my swissvax waxes and it's coatings for me for here on it.
If I want to go old school for the garage queen, I'll throw on a glaze and then a nuba for the jaw dropping oil slickness, but that's a different diatribe

Jsoto, How do you like CQuartz? I like to try that out.

I like CQuartz more than Opti. I use CQ for the cars that get less driven - stays in the garage. The 2 that stay outside, Opticoat.

Looks - CQ
Durability ----long term---- Opti

Thanks Jsoto. I picked up CQuartz 30ml kit.

Today was new spark plugs, new air filter and new cabin filter.

And wouldn't you know, I got it all shiny this weekend and now it's raining. Good thing it basically looks better when wet! :D :rofl:

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Nice!!

Next up is the transmission service and she should be all up to date!


2005 X5 4.8iS :: Imola Red w/LeMans interior

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pick up some Reload while you're at it. It's amazing as a topper / QD. Keep it super slick.

They recommend once every month or something like that. I use that stuff once a week almost. It's amazing stuff ! Hydro as a second option...whatever floats your boat.

Amazing combos IMO. Once you get the coatings premise and routine, you will never look back at 'nuba. This is from a die hard nuba fan myself !

If you haven't done your cart checkout, pick up the suede applicators . They are the best applicators for coatings. Use once, then throw it away...thin enough to move the product, without overlery saturating it.

New side markers (old ones were some crap knock-off white bulb version and full of water). Replaced the new side marker and rear signal bulbs with stealth ultra conceal bulbs. You can't see them when off, yet they glow amber when on. Much better for visibility from the rear than the white bulbs the PO put in there.

Already checked out but I'll purchase those items as well. Thanks for your recommendation.

Nice truck! Love the plates!!

Thanks! I got those a few years ago, kind of a joke, but since I've gotten them we've had 4 or 5 of the absolute worst calls in NCAA history go against us. After last week I think they're going to create an Apology Case next to our Trophy Case to display all the official letters of apology we've gotten from the Big 12. :(

Perhaps I should get rid of the plates and we may have better luck? :dunno:

Intake and exhaust :)
 

X pipe exhaust and Pro Dry S Stage 1 Cold Air Intake

installed a new fuel pump today. Didnt fix my issue but at least I know that wont break now:yawn:

What is your issue?

I have a thread on the issue here http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...art-issue.html Have a read!

today I replaced the cam tensioner , not a bad job just a little fiddly , when I took it out. the tensioner was in the compressed position , I had to physically pull the piston out to make it move,
so put new one in , made a rattle for a second I presume to prime itself, after that, no noise on more fire ups :)
today was a good day :)

Good preventative.

I like the CQuartz. I'm on my second go around on the 2011 E90M3. Just did the wheels and calipers with the extra/leftover CQ. Make sure you do an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) wipedown between your last polish step and the application of CQ to get rid of any fillers/oils/stuff. You want the CQ to chemically bond to the paint and it can't do that if the surface isn't clean.

Reload is CQ's recommended maintenance product. I don't use it as often as I should. When I do the car looks amazing (Melbourne Red).

I'll eventually CQ the X5, but it and the 2002 M3 have a lot of rock chips, so they are the designated 'use all the old products up before buying new stuff' cars. :cool:

BTW: you need to get a new t-shirt to honor your new OC: "Our OC can eat your OC." :nanana:

Expansion tank replaced again. The last one lasted 2+ years (60K kms).