Get yourself a 1.4 bar coolant cap from an e30. Shit will stop exploding.

This one?? --> BMW E30 325i M20 2.5L Engine Cooling Expansion Tank - 17111742232 - Expansion Tank Cap - ES#37938

Yes.

So the idea is to allow the cap to release pressure sooner?? Have you tried this already? No issues with coolant loss??

I like the concept :thumbup:

There is a long thread Slick did earlier this year, I won't derail this thread but that's the concept. Not allowing the system to reach a 2 bar venting pressure means that you won't ever put 2 bars of stress on plastic cooling components (30 psi)

SlickGT1, Ricky Bobby, thanks:thumbup:

The answer is always E30 :thumbup:

Quoted for truth. God's chariot comes through with a solution again. lol

Sorry couldn't resist. I have 3 e30's currently and love every one of em. 92 vert, turbocharged 91 318is, and 87 325e.:thumbup:

Went all summer with it. Not one drop lost.

Drove E30 ///M3s at the Skip Barber Driving School 25 yrs ago.

Awesome drivers car. :thumbup:

Never should of sold mine best car I ever had

A few hot laps around Lime Rock will leave ANY auto enthusiast grinning for months!

It was the most fun I've ever had in a drivers seat, parking with Gfs included.

I removed the clutch fan (working fine) and replaced it with a thermostatically controlled electric fan. Intention is to free up hp the clutch fan uses, cool the engine after the key is off and take the load off the water pump bearing.

A. Where do you get one of those?
B. What is involved in installation, do you need to code anything?

Brian posted the details here.....

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-electric.html

No need to code anything since the clutch fan is 100% mechanical. And as long as the original shroud is retained the sensors for the OE electric pusher fan are still in place.

Replaced the scratched graphite interior lighted door handle. Either the PO wore rings and scratched it really bad... or the shop that did the regulator window for them set the door panel on it's face on the floor and scratched it up. My OCD won't let me leave one of the handles scratched up like that. ;) ~$50 part in case anyone wanted to know.

Now if only I could replace the stupid trim on the pulls... all of those are scratched on the truck. ECS wants like $250 PER pull trim... WOAH!:(

If you have a 4.8is, considers this mod already done on your car.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/19/6u9utesu.jpg

All wheel drive alignment this morning. Drives tight now.

Finally got her detailed last night after:

• Valve stem seals, VCG, upper timing seals, all O-rings and ancillary seals done (AGA tool - thank you Martin, he assisted with a few questions I had - awesome support, highly recommended)
• Expandable coolant pipe (AGA again. They have the Viton O-rings, which will NOT fail ever again, and a different design to avoid galvanic corrosion - the O.E. one did that)
• All cooling hoses, radiator, etc
• Serviced the transmission - ATF & filter change, changed the mechatronic sealing sleeve which leaked. Had about 1 qt less then what I pumped in

She's driving like a dream now, no more smoke of shame. Gears change very smooth :thumbup:

Wow... lots of work. Nicely done. I still have this job to look forward to. Thinking about doing the valve seals at the same time as upper timing cover gasket, VC gaskets, etc. Doubt they have been changed at 109,000 miles when I purchased it. Might have to do the coolant pipe as well... just as precaution, doesn't leak coolant (yet).

Not today, but i installed my aux-in and mounted it in about 15minutes ;)

And then installed a pre-made 2 cigarette plug + 2 usb charge ports in the lower right corner of my passenger footwell to only turn on with the key turned at least one click as to not kill my battery. One cigarette port powers my dashcam :) (don't worry, the wires are all tucked away and hidden)

Oh and then I bought some winter tires and rims :thumbup:
Tapped the power into fuse 7 (radio) and grounded
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...ps348e941f.jpg

pre-made power outlet (came with long wire with ground/power ends)
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a4422f7.jpg

Dashcam hidden behind mirror
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...psa6c53e57.jpg

Dashcam with mirror moved to show it for picture purpose
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...ps54e241bd.jpg

New Rims/tires
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ec1fac8.png

Placed beside current setup for a preview of what my winter setup will look like (I like it alot!) :thumbup:
http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf694657.jpg

I just ordered the Dynavin N6 after Jeff assured me it should be plug&play on my car(with DSP /no NAV)
Looking forward to installing it.Hopefully it should be here in a few days since Cali isnt too far from WA.
Will keep everyone updated once I get it installed.will start a new thread or post in a already existing one.

Headlight buff/restore - right headlight seems in much better shape that left. Must have been replaced at one point. I may give the left another go, but for now, happy with the improvement on each side.

Also dried out the passenger rear carpet. Still drying out from the disconnected sunroof drain - a gift from the PO. Nice breeze and decently warm temps today so I figured now is a good a day as any. Nice days won't be here for much longer.

Four8, excited to see your N6 when installed and in action! I'll be getting one one of these days as well, I can't wait to see/hear about it from you!

RB , I'll keep you updated for sure!
Its one mod I had to do sooner than later since the interior is pretty boring with the stock radio:)

Amen to that I feel like a set of Bavsound speakers and an N6 would make the interior that much nicer and take the E53 to the level of 2014 models IMO

That N6 should be really nice! I have been considering getting one down the line my self. Let us know how you like it.

New glow plugs, new glow plug relay, transfer box fluid change and reset, transmission fluid/filter change.

Still to do - replace missing bolt on inlet manifold, diff oil change front/back, front anti-roll bar mount bush change, another transmission fluid change (to try and get more of the old fluid out).

Really hate the smell of transmission fluid, yuck :sick:

Transmission fluid smells absolutely disgusting.


Today I replaced all 3 windows support clips. I had the rear driver window fall down into rhe door the other day so I decided to replace all the window clips. Glad I did too because all the other clips were on their last legs. Just waiting for a monsoon and far from home to break. I'd highly recommend replacing them before winter hits and the weather gets nnastythe rear clips are only $8 a piece (need two) and the fronts are a buck something a piece (need 4) Doing the zip tie fix to prevent the window regs from breaking isn't a bad idea either.

Don't forget to buy new reinforcement plate bolts when you do the front diff. The bolts are one time use since you torque+ them.

I'm interested too.

I have DSP/no Nav, looking to get rid of the Garmin unit suction cupped to the windshield.

In 11 yrs the X has yet to have any wiring cut/spliced/added (except for tow module/harness, OE), want to keep it that way.

Torque+ them?

These are the same bolts which go through the anti-roll bar mounts I think, do they also have a nut on top? I was planning to change those this weekend and brought two spare bolts/nuts incase I snapped one as I took a look at them last weekend and they are very tight.

Yes, those bolts. There is like 8 or 10 or so of them. Essentially when you tighten, you tighten to the torque spec (80ft lb for example) then you tighten a full 90degrees beyond. This deforms the head of the bolt. That's why you need to replace the bolt when you remove them.

The thread area stretches/deforms on "torque to yield" fasteners. As the "yield" in the name implies, the tensile strength of the bolt materal is exceeded with the "+90 deg" 2nd stage of tightening.

Stiffener plate bolts MUST BE REPLACED after each removal. A set runs around $25.

:iagree:

This has been discussed multiple times. The bolts are a "one time use". Buy the set and replacement them if you are pulling off the reinforcement plate. A few of the bolts are a PITA. Not real complicated process. BMW is the only source.

Some of you have plates which you can clean up to a nice and shiny state. Us 4.8is owners got the black steel one, that always looks ....well flat black.:rolleyes:
What the hell? I want under car bling! I do the oil changes and the least BMW could have done was give us some high gloss at least!

Ha ha

Just spent July & Aug traveling from ID to NJ, NC, SC, TH and back. Entering NJ I noticed 4"w x 7"h area in the center of the windshield with 7-8 vertical white lines. (????) So, new windshield. Then a week later the wire to the GPS receiver broke due to pinching by the new windshield. non-stock Alpine item..., 3 days to find one in CA + $75 overnight shipping. In SC the bumper got repainted thanks to an 18yr old running into it while I was stopped at a red light.

So my X5 came home looking better than it had when I left home over 6000 miles ago.

I just installed new monroe oespectrum shocks (very nice!). Installed guage rings, coded the X5 sidemarkers off, replaced fuel filter, replaced tie rods, activated euro flashers, tinted tail lights, also installed running boards from taiwan, saved alot of money, installed easy and they look OEM. Pictures of the build coming soon!

Yeah, the gauge rings are a cheap/easy mod that's always visible to the driver.....

yeah, i think it adds a little flair. Oh also forgot to add, I think i solved the transmission shifting issues common with the X5 Zf trans. I did front and rear diffs with Amsoils 75W90 severe gear and shifting improved quite a bit, also seems to turn and overall drive smoother. Im going to do the transmission fluid soon (9500 miles till i hit 100k).

Tinted tails aren't my thing but they could be done right, looking forward to pics of the running boards

Yeah i wasnt sure if i wanted to do it, but it came out pretty nice, kinda looks like i dont have tail lights until i light her up then its bright as day. Oh also gonna put Rigid LEDs in the fogs to compliment the ones mounted on the bumper. RB the running boards are actually really nice, i went to patrick bmw to get t case fluid ($54/qt!!!!!:O) one of the parts guys actually asked which dealership i bought them at lmao

I forgot to mention that I also changed the rear air suspensions.......

Pics of the boards, or it didn't happen.

pulled out my old 1990's era sony amp I was powering the factory sub box with and put in a new mb quart amp that sits in the empty side space in the hatch area. so much nicer having that out of the way now.

I'm liking this cool weather! Makes me really want an air to air intercooler

This weekend, I replaced both the thrust arms. Is was horrible. It took at least 3 hours to get them both loose. with heating, hammering, swearing and complaining. But now it is done:-)

Had the violent shakes when braking? I'm thinking about just replacing the bushings this time.

I got another temporary permit for my E53 today, so I can bring it to my friends shop and do the front brakes, front bushings, buff the headlights and run her through the BMW drive cycle so I can have an emissions test done. Afterwards the car will be fully licensed.

I still have to figure out which bushings need replacing though, I just had surgery so no time to actually inspect the vehicle. I know it shakes like a bugger when braking though, so probably thrust bushings...Meyle HD time.

did some R/R to the air suspension pump - i did not have any symptoms but recently started to "hear" the pump, as it wasn't as silent anymore, so replaced gasket and the funny looking round piece from the RR kit...

had my boy spin some wrenches - it's about time for him to learn something from old papa...:thumbup:

nice work T :thumbup:

Preventative maintenance always a good thing, the pump running better now? I need to do my seals on the pump too just for peace of mind (and its cheap/easy to do)

Good on you, Terminator. One of the best therapies for developing manhood is turning a wrench with your old man. You hear about boys these days having little interest in autos today, which has been my experience with nephews & stepson. Unfortunate.

New parts and son helping, that's a great day!

Finalllllyyyy got around to post on here.

Was leaking oil...A lot. Replaced the valve cover gasket, pan gasket, and oil filter housing.

Did full oil change, swapped out the cabin filter and oil filter.

Driver door didnt open from out side, so swapped out the door handle assembly (part number 51218243615)

Stock angel eye bulb burnt out, so replaced it with some 15W LEDs (from ebay)

I think thats it...

Got my Dynavin N6.Only complaint right out of the box is that the buttons feel kinda loose compared to the ones on the oem NAV.I could live with that if they dont rattle;otherwise ill have to send it back and get another one.

Car is still in the shop so I cant do the install yet...
crappy pics...will get better ones when i'll install it..

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...psb21e598d.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f4acff6.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a08e3bd.jpg

Since yours is in the shop I'll just swing by and we can install it in mine ;)

Looks nice.

not a bad idea:bustingup
But seriously I'm very inpatient...they day I get the navi the car is in the shop; what are the chances??:dunno:

Did the OFHG the other day. Waiting for a new door lock, too. :)

how long did it take for your OFHG to start leaking? I'm wondering if mine's just the valve cover gasket lol...ugh, to pull out half the crap and check or not to...lol

3.0i with 130,000km lol

Took about 8 months from when i bought the truck, no clue when it was last replaced. If the VCG is leaking, it's usually toward the rear, and you'll have a burning oil smell, and you might see some oil back there.

If it's the OFHG, if you take the airbox and scoop off, then lift the intake hose up, you can look behind where the OFHG is. If you see oil there, or below there and nowhere else, it's the OFHG. It's not so bad, about 2 hrs if you're skilled. 4 if you're me :P

^I wish oil leaks were as easy to fix on the 4.4i. I've got a gusher coming from the driver's side VC and upper timing cover. Possibly also the alternator bracket. Going to do it all (have parts) when I can spare a weekend. Debating whether or not to do valve seals at the same time.

Have the AVIC 8000NEX connected to the 5 which is now an ipod tethered to teh 6+ running Pandora & all connected apps it has.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps8b8b1924.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps43f47c0b.jpg

Made a space wallpaper/lock screen.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4309d8ed.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps84bb3f32.jpg

Dude, check your email! ;)

nope. gmail says I never have to delete anything.

lol

hahaha...I'm one of those Inbox Zero OCD types.

I don't care about it. It is 6 accounts. I respond immediately to the important ones.

SWEET setup! If I cared about music I'd totally do it. ;)

I am doing this with OE monitor... too bad, no touch screen function...

today I changed the spark plugs :)
good job really they were horrible. the drivers bank (your passenger if you are American) the I think gasket has gone as they was a little oil in the plug recesses and on the same bank 2 of the coil packs were loose, missing nuts and one with the earth straps didn't even have a nut on :)
all fixted now tho, blowing a little crud out of the back end but its all nice :)
plus I removed the washer bottle as it stunk of rotten eggs, . cleaned removed the pong and re fitted :):)

Order the Genuine BMW VC gaskets, no OEM or aftermarket.

Seem those who go cheap on these item have leaking issues after replacement or need the job redone a yr or two later.:thumbup:

You get what you pay for on these gaskets.

Got my gaskets/O-rings (Genuine BMW) from ECS tuning for around $120 USD.

today I decided to change the oil, the oil filter and the oil level sensor on the sump.
everything was going ok , removed the huge aluminium plate, and the sensor , checking for little bits of plastic I the oil as I went, removed the oil filter top, and then the sump plug :)
refitting went ok , filled oil up , no leaks, then oil filter was wrong type :(
got another filter then re fitted the plate, no one told me the sway bar is attached to it did they :)
3 hours and a lot of swearing , doing in on the side of the road with no jacks, were all working again :)
Steves tip of the day.
Don't do the aluminium plate at the side of the road get a set of jacks or a car lift
plus I seemed to have a bit of trouble getting the oil filter in the housing then screwing the lid down , seems to be a movable plate inside the lid that was getting stuck on the filter
Fram CH8213ECO Oil Filter: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike#
filter for car , apparently

Steve

I allowed the original water pump to retire at 262,835 miles.

2002 X5 3.0
2004 325i 116,000 miles

Used some Mother's Back to Black on the exterior plastic trim. Turned out really well. Trim was just tired from almost 200,000km of Canadian roads :)

have now lost 3 of the last 4 rounds with my car.

still cannot get the stripped 02 sensor off. JB weld failed spectacularly holding the socket on.

Now I am just waiting on my Irwin extractor to show up. If that fails, its off with the exhaust, and I'll either replace the header, or at least have more tools at my disposal.


Then to add insult to injury, I tried to replace my RUCA's, and trailing arms in the back, and only got one RUCA done. Tip for anyone trying to do just your RUCAs, PULL forward from the brake caliper as hard as you can. it seems to torque the assembly just enough to get everything to line up right.

Also, you're going to need ton of different tool options, wrenches, sockets (short/deep) in 21, 19, 17, etc....

Found another 4.8is parked on the side, stopped, took a quick shot and drove away:D


http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6f736a3f.jpg

^ Pretty.

Today put new brake disks & pads on my E53 4.6is, changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, new sparkplugs etc... In other words a complete rundown. Also put my 19 inch alloys fitted with wintertread tyres on. 20 inch allowys I wil have re-finished this winter! So all in all a good days work!

Dropped mine at the body shop. Cleaning up a lil love tap ding on the rear hatch and an old scratch that I am just tired of looking at. While there, I got to check in on the progress of my restore...

I hope you mean the 2002 and not the 924.

:nanana: I don't like 924's either. :iagree:

Yes. The '02 was my first car. I am the 2nd owner. I've owned it for 28 years now. Time to get 'Kermit' fixed up for my daughter who will be 16... In 6 years!

Your 02 is sweet! What year is it? That is really cool that your daughter will be driving it.


I didn't do anything to the X5, but I did get a UUC shifter in the mail today!

How many non rainy days do you have up there in the Pacific NW? 6 or 7 per year?

Haha actually last year we had a record...I think about 50 and some days with no rain?josh can correct me if I'm wrong but yeah usually it's pretty wet:(

Yeah that sounds about right. It was a pretty long time without rain.

This summer was pretty dry though. It seemed like we went a really long time without rain but I haven't heard anything. But I did go out of state a few times so I could have missed it. Only the past few weeks has it really started to rain again. Oh look, it's raining right now...

It has been raining in Phoenix much more than usual.

+1

I was there for over 2 weeks this summer and saw rain only once. Place is freakin beautiful when it's clear.

We set a record low for rain in September here in the D/FW area. Around .02"

I drove it! for the past few weeks ive just been driving the M6 the whole time, but i started to miss driving the X5, drove it few times and still love it. Never ever going to sell it. I like it more than the M6 haha. cleaned up the 6 and it was supoposed to rain and it did so it was the perfect excuse for the x5, im soooo much more aggresive in the X5 haha and got to class much quicker than in the m6.

Such a good car.

Yesterday afternoon I stopped by the BMW dealership south of here and had them print out a service history of everything that's been done to the X, so I now have pretty complete records. Seems like most everything was done at a dealership up through 97K, and it's at 111K now, and I am now working with the shop that worked on it from 97K until I bought it. Seems like a lot of the common stuff has already been done.

Today it's in the shop still trying to suss out this front end shudder. Most all of the front suspension has been redone in the last 10K, new rotors when I bought it. I have a sneaking suspicion that it's the caliper pins sticking, since the problem comes and goes. Friday & Saturday it was doing it pretty bad. Of course Monday and Tuesday it didn't do it at all. He's going to check wheel balance, make sure the new rotors don't need to be machined, and check the caliper pins today.

Also, while I was at the dealership I picked up 4 of the window clips so I can do that some Sunday this fall when there's no interesting games on.

Does the shudder happen while driving? or on braking only? Sometimes I have a slight shimmy which comes and goes on the highway, I feel like its calipers as well since my entire front end is new, wheels are balanced true.

The trouble is they only use DFW for official reporting. We actually had some rain where I'm at in Arlington, but still, it has been a dry month. Makes it easier to get more Waverunner time in on the lake though!:thumbup:

It happens while driving. Often braking will make it go away, like it's freeing up the pin. It brakes smoothly and evenly. It happens when I'm NOT braking.

The mech thought it could be a warped rotor originally and when things get warm it starts to rub, but I told him that it can often start happening right out of the garage within a block or two, so he started to think possibly calipers too.

At one point a couple months ago, on the freeway, it started shuddering and kept getting worse, eventually shaking so badly I thought I had blown a tire. Pulled off. Tires were fine. Nothing lodged underneath. Backed up and looked where I had been parked, no leaks of anything, everything seemed normal. Got back in and took off and it drove like nothing was wrong. About 100 miles later it started coming back. I started to brake a bit to pull over again and it went away.

Now braking can make it go away, or sometimes it doesn't. I haven't really taken it out on the freeway for a long drive since that trip where I thought I'd blown the tire, so it hasn't shaken so badly again, but it's still there, still the same problem.

I had the wheels balanced at a different indy a month or so ago, but this mech's going to check them again. He calibrates his machine weekly. He spoke highly of the other shop, except for their hourly rate and the fact they don't calibrate as often. I like this guy, he's just hard to get into so I'm going to have to keep up relationships with both places.

Yeah, SW of DFW got significant rain.

NE of DFW (Coppell) saw even less then the airport reported. One evening of light rain in over 2 mos here!

What's rain?

Yeah, east of Coppell saw EVEN LESS rain.

I know, it needs a wash!

Installed my UUC ssk today.

And my carrier bushings are worn out. So I'll need to order those and go back in and replace them. I knew I should I have ordered them anyway.

backed into my wifes tiburon and scratched the bumper on the X5 .And the bodyshop decided to replace the bumper because of scuff marks in the lower black area which were there since I bought it. wifes tib needed a rad support,bumper, and hood replaced. I was parked about 3` in front of the tib. I only had to pay a 500.00 deductable for both vehicles. now I wonder if my insurance will go up? between the 2 vehicles about 7000.00 can in repairs.

dropped it off for the pcv (cyclone filter) replacing and the so called pipework that connects to it

all new suspension front and rear, got the alignment yesterday, what a beautiful ride. Had 154,000 miles on it, figured it was time
Yes the right front strut was that wasted

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...45964a4ead3613

Just be glad you could get your carrier out of the car. Mine is rusted to the top of the trans, couldn't get the pin out for the life of me (my 4 night trial and error is documented in an older thread).

Someday if I'm doing some work where I have to drop the driveshaft etc I have a new set of bushings and pin that I would do it then, but for now it works fine. How do you like your UUC SSK? See Riggodeaux's thread about it, I have some pics of my non-M ZHP shift knob installed with the UUC, makes for an awesome shifting experience!


sandbagger, god damn that is a lot of work! Did you DIY it all? My front end is new, I'm starting to tackle the rear (subframe bushings done already), any tips are appreciated for the wishbones/ball joints.

ALL DIY but then again everything I do is

That was everything but the subframe bushings and the rear lower arms to the frame( dont even think those are replaceable?)

Not shown is the old rear sway bar ends as I thought they came in the box with the new rear bar I put on but didnt :(

The rear is no harder than the front, except for the rear ball joint. The arm is not machined all the way around the ball joint so the sleeve to push it into will not set flat. needs about 1" of the arc cut away and wasnt going to do that to my buddys ball joint press :) I just pushed the center out and then cut/split and hammered it out. You can push the new one in no problem.

I really wished someone made a master bushing tool kit as I would buy it. If I ever do this again I will just buy the dang tool for the ball joint and the tension strut. But having all the tools for my E53 and E36 I could buy another car!

Awesome thanks for the tips, and you mean the lower control arm bushings on the frame? Those are replaceable and about $60 for a set of 4, available on ECS and made by Lemforder.

If you need the subframe tool in the future let me know, replacing my 11 year old bushings with Meyle HD definitely solidified the rear a bit, now to work on the arms and ball joints. I plan on renting the special rear ball joint tool when I tackle those, to make the job easier.

Check Summit Racing - the have several bushing installation tool kits that can be helpful, especially the sleeve compression style for those rear swing arm bushings.

2002 X5 3.0 263,500 miles
2004 325i 116,000 miles

You have to love fresh suspension. The PO of my X5 replaced the controls arms and such with febi units about 20k ago. They still look good so I don't have much reason to tear into it. I might do subframe bushings if I decide to do coilovers.


I have heard from a lot of people that their pin was frozen so they couldn't get the carrier out. I assumed it would be, but I was able to pop it up and out with just my thumb. So lucky and it was so much easier than my E30s where you have basically zero room and cannot see it. I havent actually driven it yet. I am not expecting perfection as the carrier it's self is pretty sloppy.

It looks like the E39 has a similar carrier where it connects to the trans. Does anyone known of their oval derlin bushings will work? I also need to figure out what to do about that upper bushings for the carrier.

The oval Delrin bushings will work but it won't make much difference in my speaking with Rob @ UUC. I replaced the rear carrier mount (the one that bolts to the floor by the shifter) for $18 as the rubber on the mount seemed loose on mine when I did the shifter.

Your pre-facelift should be like mine where you have 2 oval bushings but one long pin.

Sweet. It looked like it would work but I wasn't sure. I am sure they don't make much difference over a good condition stock bushing, but mine is starting to oval with the left bushing being worse than the right. I am not sure why. Perhaps I need to do the trans/tcase mount.

Ill get just a the rubber one like you did for the rear. I looked when ordering new pieces and didn't find it quickly. I assumed it wasn't as readily available because it wasn't as prone to wearing out like the others. I did a new selector joint and got new little yellow washers. The new selector join was nice because it is a wider piece and doesn't use the washer. That and the old one didn't even have the little yellow bushing in it anymore so it was super floppy.


EDIT:

So I took it out for a spin. Shifter is nice. I hear the nice metal on metal click when shifting like my E30. The throw is short and I have the shifter at it's highest setting. I do wish it had the DSSR though because it alone does make a big difference. I also still need to replace those carrier bushings. I am pretty sure thats what makes it so much more likely to shift into 5th when going from 2nd to 3rd.

Also, is everyone else this far back? I thought maybe I installed it backwards at first but it does not work when pointing the other direction. I am starting to think it was designed this way as my arm doesn't need to move much from the armrest now.

Neutral

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psxmahrrmx.jpg

4th

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psudxxbvhe.jpg

Had my rotors machined and wheels balanced yesterday. Hoping this took care of the shimmy, but I'm not 100% confident it will. I still think there's a caliper pin sticking. But we will see.

I had asked the mech to also look at the caliper pins, but he's pretty confident that these two fixes will take care of the problem, so he didn't take apart the calipers yet. I guess I can't complain, because he didn't charge me anything for the work he did. :)

Josh check pics of mine installed in Riggodeaux's thread from the summer, it looks similar. Definitely places neutral more "set back" in the gate. Yours looks fine. You didn't opt for the $8 non-M insert?

(one of my peeves personally, I don't place M emblems on non-M cars)

Baring anything unforseen, caliper pins are pretty easy to r&r yourself. Get a #7 Allen socket, an adapter to let you use a box wrench on a socket and go to town. Don't lube, just use some light steel wool to clean off. You can replace them all for pretty cheap too.

True, but my mech charges so little that I hoped that while he had it up and the wheels off he would just do it all at once...

I didn't see the insert. Unless all inserts are the same size. Do you have a part number handy?

So you're telling me my 3 ton, 3 liter, suv isn't a M car? :rippedoff

Not a big deal on a shift knob.

My E46 330i sport came from BMW with M logo wheels.

Would never stick one anywhere on the bodywork.

just gave her a wash and a vacuum :)

nice and shiney now

My E30 shares the same seats and steering wheel with the M3. It came with the tri color stripes and stuff. I have the ///M shift knob in there. But my X5 never came with anything motorsport badged from the factory.

It isn't a huge deal. But I'd rather just get the other shift pattern. Also my splash screen on the Nav now is the ///M and that bothers me the most. But I haven't figured out how to change it yet.

Picked it up today from a week in cosmetic surgery. I got a lil love tap in some parking lot somewhere. Couple small dents in the left rear hatch were small enough to pull without filler, but they were through the paint.

I figured also this was the time to fix a right side scratch I got like 3 weeks after I brought it home. :(

But now, the rear is all shiny again, without dings or scratches. I need to throw a good wash on it to get the stuff off and then get after it with the Flex polisher. That trip west was tough on the hood. The whole thing needs a week at the spa. :D

Today was the day to replace the NAV monitor screen. Some little weirdness started crawling across the screen this summer before my giant road trip. Can't have that, can we. :dunno:

I had never done this before. I watched a YouTube video for 6 minutes and completed the job in just over an hour. Not a bad DIY at all. If you've built a PC in the early 90's, you have all the know how you need.

How did the PDR come out Prop? I have a nagging pinhole dent on my rear quarter to get taken care of when my X goes in the shop for skid plate painting (when it arrives).

Glad to hear she is cosmetically perfect again :)

If I remember it right, the steering wheel on my 4.6iS had an ///M logo on it... the cluster did not but the wheel did... I have to see if I have an old pic of the car to see if my memory does not fail me...

EDIT

Here is pic of 4.6 taken in Panama... you can see the ///M logo on steering wheel, from the factory. The car was bone stock (except for some entertainment electronics)
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...dbf815c65b.jpg

Popped my regulator cherry today on the X5. Not my first window regulator in a BMW, but first on the X. Knocked it out pretty quickly and easily as it was much easier than some of the other ones I've done on other chassis.

Now I know that the driver's front, passenger front, and passenger rear (the one I did today) have been done on the vehicle. I know because I've had to do other work in the door panels to fix what the shops (or POs) who did the work broke... so yeah. Gotta love that.

Hopefully I won't have to go into the doors again anytime soon (fingers crossed) as I've already replaced the driver's interior door handle from the PO wearing some heavy rings I guess. It was the only door handle that was scratched up.

Replaced the driver door lock. Almost dropped the screw in the door, but once I used a little paper tube I rolled up, that danger was eliminated. Took just a few minutes to do, though it started to rain hard just as I got the old lock off.

However, as we say in the USMC, if it ain't raining, we ain't training.

Nice to have an X that locks again.

:D

Well, mine wasn't exactly paintless.... :eeps: The dings went through the paint, so in order to match the best possible way, I had the rear upper and lower hatch as well as the left and rt rear quarters done. That took care of a scratch I'd had for awhile. So it does look pretty good, now. :thumbup:

Needs correction badly though. :rolleyes: some time with a polisher and compound will take care of it.

Replaced the weatherstripping on the bottom of the passenger door this week. That was a toughie. Took about 37 seconds. :)

FINALLY.
I rewired my center console dash to be powered only when the key is on. Thank God. I was getting sick of unplugging my phone/ipod everytime.
Simply ran a new power wire from the back of the cigarette lighter to a fuse in the fuse box (used a fuse tap) and bam. No more constant 12v!

Bouchedag84 - cool beans!

Discovered low coolant yesterday. Topped off, did bleed procedure, checking again in the morning. :)

Prof,

You're a Marine. You are in the service of your nation. You shouldn't have to lock your car. Anyone who approached should get "the vibe" that a Marine owns that vehicle, and they should back away slowly and quietly so as not to disturb the lion :)

Thank you for your service.

Thanks. Hopefully the fuse I used, speed control, is fine. Shouldnt be an issue as I retained the original fuse and just used an add-a-circuit (fuse tap) to it.
Now if only I could figure out a way to tidy up my ipod aux and charge cable. They drive me bonkers. I can't hide them completely because I'm always using the ipod to skip songs etc... Hmm.. Who wants to buy me that new Dynavin?

Lol, and you're welcome! :)

now you need blue tooth.

ordered a new drivers side exterior handle on Thursday, and it completely broke on Friday ....... did the passenger side a few months ago, should have known :rolleyes:

Installed the new Eibach rear bar and new ends yesterday and got the new radio all configured the way I want it.

got my instrument cluster repaired, :)

oh i know. i love BT but I am having other expenses at the moment. (winter tires/rims/xmas trip/winter vacation etc) :rolleyes:

Got tired of waiting for Continental to release the CenterForceContact Ultimate Performance Summer only tire in the 255-50/285-45 19" sizes.

Ordered a full set of ultimate performance/summer only Vredestein Ultrac Vorti tires.

Don't really need Y speed rated rubber 186mph, just want maximum summer wet/dry grip.

http://www.vredestein.com/car-tyres/...ac-vorti/info/

Nice looking tire James!

Thanks Brian.

Waited all summer for Conti' to release these, still no release date.

Put some fresh wire cover on the thermostat wires, Couldn't get all of the hold one off so joined 'em with electrical tape. Here's hoping it's not too hot for that. ;)

Have a look at the Falken FK453CC. I have them on my X5 In 19inch and they are fantastic wet or dry.

Wow. Look at those tread blocks. That is a nice looking tire.

Looked at those, the Azenis.

I read reviews on those and the Ultrac Vorti. Saw most reviewers had issues with the Falken high wear rates.

Many owners (mostly european), who reviewed the Ultrac Vorti were amazed at how quiet, soft riding and long wearing these new Vredisteins are. Many reviewers had used the Vredistein Sessanta prior to the Ultrac Vorti and reported more wet/dry grip, quiet, progressive breakaway/non-snappy recovery and 40k miles of spirited driving resulting in 50% tread depth remaining.

Audi R8 V10 and Vette Z06/ZR1 owners posting 2nd gear WOT (DTC off) on new/wet pavement, were expecting excessive wheelspin, found HUGE traction/launch, these thing GRAB and GO.

Down here in Australia havent heard of any mileage issues of the Azenis FK453CC.
I have a set of 18 inch tyres on my wifes car a Ford FG XR6 Turbo and the original Dunlops did 31,000km and so far the Falken have done 28,000km and just over half worn.

These have a REALLY high rubber to void ratio.

European Car was at the tire release drive on the F1 Hungaroring.....

Vredestein Ultrac Vorti UHP Tire - European Car Magazine

They should drain alot of water then.

They placed 3rd in wet constant radius cornering of 10 ultra high performance tires tested in the european tire test I read. That's good enough for me in "almost never rains" Dallas TX. They HUMILIATED ALL the other tires on dry track lap times and response/feel/feedback!!!

Tires are a compromise, this is what I want from MY tires, not for everyone.

FWIW, if Dallas gets an unusually wet spell or I road trip, I have the OE non-staggered 18"s with B'stone Turanza tires. Can swap sets in around 5 mins.

Drove a 700 hp Viper DD with Michelin XGT-Zs (8yrs/100k miles) in "rains every afternoon" Florida. These should be no problem after that.

that tire looks pleasant to my eye....maybe my next summer set.TiAg let us know how you like them!

hmm, we get a lot of rain here, which ones were the top 2 in wet?

Here's the test of Ultra High Perf tires.

Vredestein Ultrac Vorti | Auto Express

Most of the tires tested aren't produced in E53 sizes.

Glad to see someone producing a full tilt UHP tire in E53 stagger fitment.

Tyre manufacturers are finding it very dificult to manufacture a tyre that fits everyones requirments, eg Wet grip, dry grip, wet braking, dry braking and the big one, Mileage. Also it seems that tyres made for the North American market are different in compound to the European market. The European market like soft compound tyres {Less distances to travel} and the US and Australian markets want more mileage.

Emission tested and had a safety inspection done, so she's fully legal and driving around.

First thing is first, replace valve cover and ofh gasket and check out the ccv system and hook the ccv to a vac source. Gotta check the ccv fitting on the valve cover to see if there's a bunch of crap in there lol here's hoping...

Yeah, those are some schmexy tires. Need to shop for some winter tires soon here.

Really.

Tire design is all about tradeoff. Increase dry grip and lose wet grip, increase high speed/high operating temp heat resistance and lose low temp plyability.

All season (M&S rated) tires have a minimum void to rubber ratio of over 30%. Many tire purists define all-season tires as no-season tires (all the design/materal tradeoffs that make them work everywhere cause them to excel nowhere).

I recommend anyone looking at the Ultrac Vorti have a 2nd set of "all around" tires on a spare set of wheels.

I have to chalk up another one - installed the Dynavin head unit instead of the OE HU. Updated look for sure, and I got what I need on a day-to-day basis: hands free phone via integrated Bluetooth. GPS is also handy. The other (handful) of features will come in handy, I'm sure (on one of the other cars, I have installed a similar unit, and when I go shopping with my wife, I rather sit in the car and start watching something - like a movie, or whatever, instead of browsing for shoes or underwear.....)

Vredestein Ultrac Vorti UHP Tire - European Car Magazine

One detail.

This tire test I linked in a prior post was done on lightweight/hot hatch cars. Vredestein/Giugiaro Design clean sheet designed/developed/tested the Ultrac Vorti as an Ultra High Performance (UHP) SUV tire. The added weight of an SUV will improve hydroplane performance significantly.

Sounds like you got it covered.:thumbup:

GOT MY WINTER TIRES AND RIMS ON!! YEW

http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/...ps110d7d99.jpg

What's important is that YOU like it. :thumbup:

I slapped the first wash on it since the paint shop did their work. I was pretty aggressive on the clear bra, too. The big trip was murder from bugs. I finally just soaked the clear bra in Tarminator and let it soak for awhile. I haven't put it under the lights, but if I can't clear the bugs, I will pull the clear bra and do another. It's been over 3 years anyway. I don't want to deal with it discoloring and being a PITA to remove.

It was nice to get the wheel woolie out and clear up the barrels behind the spokes. Always looks so nice.

He doesn't?

Nice, let us know how it all works out then. I don't even own a X5(yet) give me a week or two.
The big thing about the dynavin is no SiriusXM, and that is sort of a deal breaker for me.

Well, between he and I... one of us doesn't.

(but that doesn't matter) :D

Beauty, is in the eye of the beerholder........uhhh, beholder.

Ready for the brake job.Got my carbotech pads today.rotors have been sitting for more than a month in the garage.Gotta stop by the dealer to get the sensors.
I'm thinking to change the fluid as well.What do you guys use?

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1eca4dd0.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps29eac675.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2eb42982.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...pse280cfba.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14f80ca9.jpg

Good save.

:dunno: That's no different from what I said all along. :confused:

Four.8is

For fluid I really like ATE. ATE TYP 200 is the amber version of ATE Super Blue which has since been banned in the US for being blue. The X5 uses DOT4 right? I don't know as I haven't looked into it yet.

Are you doing brake lines too? It is the perfect time if you haven't yet.

Sarcasm. Let me be frank, don't act like a dick.

Hey Josh I was actually just reading about brake fluid.Looks like i'll go with Castrol SRF DOT4.How many bottles does it take to flush and refill do you know?
this thing is pretty expensive at 70$/bottle but well worth it since I'm gonna change it only once every 2 years.I hear this SRF absorbs moisture at a lower rate than the other DOT4 fluids...
And yes I was thinking of doing SS lines as well im mad I didnt order in the same time with the rotors.it is what it is..gotta wait a few more days now.

Here some info I found on another site on dry/wet boiling point.not sure what a difference does it make if youre not tracking the car though..

Brand________DOT Rating__Dry Boiling/Wet Boiling

AP Racing 551 - DOT 3 - 527°F (275°C) / 302ºF (145ºC)

AP Racing 600 - DOT 3 - 590°F (310°C) / 410°F (210°C)

AP PRF Racing - DOT 4 - 608°F (320ºC) / 311°F (155ºC)

ATE Super Blue - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 396ºF (194ºC)

ATE Super 200 - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 382ºF (194ºC)

Bosch - DOT 3 - 491ºF (255ºC) / 288ºF (142ºC)

Bosch - DOT 4 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 329ºF (165ºC)

Bosch - DOT 4+ - 536ºF (280ºC) / 356ºF (180ºC)

Brembo LCF 600+ - DOT 4 - 601ºF (316ºC) / 399ºF (204ºC)

Brembo EVO 500+ - DOT 4 - 520ºF (271ºC) / 336ºF (169ºC)

Castrol GT LMA - DOT 4 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 311ºF (155ºC)

Castrol SRF - DOT 4 - 590ºF (310ºC) / 518ºF (270ºC)

GS610 - DOT 4 - 610°F (321°C) / 421°F (216°C)

Gunk(Berryman)HD - DOT 4 - 510ºF (266ºC) / 311ºF (155ºC)

Motul DOT 5.1 - DOT 5.1 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 365ºF (185ºC)

Motul RBF 600 - DOT 4 - 594ºF (312ºC) / 421ºF (216ºC)

Motul RBF 660 - DOT 4 - 617ºF (325ºC) / 400ºF (204ºC)

Neo Super DOT16 - DOT 4 - 610°F (322°C) / 421°F (216°C)

Pentosin Super - DOT 4 - 500°F (260°C) / 338°F (170°C)

Prospeed RS683 - DOT 4 - 683°F (360°C) / 439°F (224°C)

Pentosin RBF - DOT 5.1 - 572°F (300°C) / 392ºF (200°C)

ValvolineProSyn - DOT 3/4 - 527ºF (275ºC) / 347ºF (175ºC)

Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 - DOT 3 - 570ºF (299ºC) / 284ºF (140ºC)

Wilwood EXP600 Plus - DOT 4 - 633ºF (330ºC) / 417ºF (213ºC)

Four8
I've run ATE200 in many cars for years and it's done well. There are some of the 'newer' fluids out that claim to be low viscosity versions. ATE SL6 is an example ATE -Our Featured Product for Electronic Brake Systems

I could not find it locally so I ended up using Pentosin dot4 LV from napa. No idea if the claims that the LV help the bleeding go easier (removing bubbles) are real and I have not tested abs reaction times to compare.

Agreed on the brake lines. If ya do "open" the liquid system for lines or other work just make sure you use a power bleeder (like the motive).

I am really interested to hear what you think of those pads.

What about caliper pins; are guys cleaning and greasing or replacing on these?

not worried about bleeding them..a BMW independent shop will replace my brakes as I can't find the time and they need to be replaced now.(less than 1 mm on the rear pads -fronts have just a little more)

Curious as well if the caliper pins need to be replaced or just cleaned and reused.

That looks like a good fluid. I am not sure what difference it really makes outside of boiling temps. I just went with that my local shop recommended and have had great results on the track.

You can reuse and re grease caliper pins as long as they haven't been damaged. I replaced my old pitted ones when I bought my E30 but have reused them ever since

Expressing an opinion and doing it in a way that reinforces and even appreciates an opposing opinion is as far from being a d!ck as it gets.

How is this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by PropellerHead (Post 1011736) What's important is that YOU like it. :thumbup:

"If you like them, thumbsup for you.."


Any different from this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiAgX5 (Post 1011743) Beauty, is in the eye of the beerholder........uhhh, beholder.

"The guy who has them likes them."

I think you've overstepped here.

I run ValvolineProSyn in my street cars/trucks or the cheapest stuff on the shelf with the highest wet boiling point. although when I could get super blue I did use that in the M3.

anything more is an absolute waste of money in anything other than in a race car!!!

with the way brake fluid absorbs water you should just be flushing it every few years anyway!

now in my Formula Continental I used nothing other than SRF.

Been absent from the community for a while....(life) but just finished Ordering Parts Parts Parts!

- Arnotts new complete in-house front air struts. (They are new top-to bottom....NOT old struts w/ new Bags)
- Bilstein tourings for the rear
- MAF
- Heated seat element out of the range rover....(stay tuned for this one as it should yield an OE level fix for our burnt bottoms that heats the entire bottom, even the bolsters-- and comes in under $100 :) )

^^^^ @ four8.is, about the Brakes discussion, which rotors did you go with again, Stoptechs?

And on the fluid, just use the ATE Typ 200, its a good fluid and DOT4 needed for our brakes. I used it on my last flush in January 2012, and am going in next week for another flush/bleed on my brakes and clutch. My shop is going to visually inspect the brake hoses as well and if any defects are noted I will have Stoptech SS lines installed on the 4 corners for peace of mind.

@ S, subscribed for live updates on the new suspension and especially excited to hear about the Rover heating element, regarding specifically how much modification is needed to make it work (I read an old thread about a universal heating element and lets just say that the install was lacking something for me )

:iagree:

Be aware of the need for replacing them every year or two.

SS brake lines are one of the few track use parts that see more stress in DDs then on "track only" vehicles (speed bumps, parallel parking, potholes).

The SS wire strands fatigue and break at the fittings over time.

IMHO, this is one item I would consider a downgrade for a DD.

Prop what material do you have on there anyway? Right around the 4 year mark depending on the film it's probably getting about that time for a redo.

I've seen films go over 5 years but they just fall apart and take hours to remove as they just crumble upon removal.

The Xpel Ultimate is a damn good film which I recommend, I'm actually getting my new headlights wrapped in them before install.

I quite like it, but thanks for being a smart ass:p:

Plasti-coated rear badges with same color as wheels.

I've been out of the car scene for a long time, what exactly is plasti-dipped?

This is the source I used.

Myths About Plasti Dip (Vol 1) - YouTube

Looks good (like the Frost Black BMW is finishing some ///M cars with).

Need to do the chrome trim pc around the roundel.

Good idea! will do.

Yes I went with Stoptech.Where do you get the 200 brake fluid from?any auto parts store?any reason not to buy from the dealer the OE stuff?thx

I get the Ate 200 from BavAuto, ECS Tuning or Bimmerzone.

My shop carries the Typ 200 (I like to let them do the flushes and give my X5 a once over on the lift)

www.redlinespeedworx.com

But I would buy from ECS, BavAuto etc, don't need to buy brake fluid in a BMW bottle when OEM fluid will do

When was the blue banned?

Couple years back because of the dye. I remember it used to wreak havoc on clutch master cylinders of VW's because of the dye as well.

Been using Typ 200 (amber) for about 6 years now

I am running the blue now. Doesn't seem like the last time I bled the brakes was two years ago, time flies when you're having fun.

I have seen the ATE at autozone I think

never heard anything about the die being a problem but some stupid US gov thing about it looking good to drink or something :rofl:

been at least 6yrs now but maybe it has only been a few. I still have a can unopened as I would switch between that and the amber when doing flushes on the M3

Federal government passed a law around 15 yrs ago, ALL brake fluid MUST be clear or amber on ANY vehicle operated on public roads.

I still have 2 unopened cans of Ate SuperBlue Racing fluid (the fluid was sold up until a few yrs ago for "track use" vehicles, hence the "racing" in the name). I like switching from amber to blue each fluid flush because of the stark contrast between the gold/amber and blue colors (MUCH more visible then the gold/amber and clear).

I currently have the SuperBlue in the X, will do an amber swap when I install the new tires next week.

My E34 has a mix of the two now. I ran into some issues and ended up using up more fluid than expected, used up both cans of my blue and had to crack into the amber. The blue sure made fluid changes easy.

According to this it was only discontinued last year (so I thought), but you are right, 15 years ago was deemed illegal based on the coloring law. It took the Federal Government 15 years to ban it LOL

Leave it to the Feds to take 15 years on deciding how to stop sale of a non-clear or non-amber brake fluid. Can you only imagine how they actually make a budget each year in Congress? :rofl:

http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/

Well, I *intended* to be a smart@ss to Tiag, not you. Sorry ab the mix up.

As I've said all along: I'm glad you like them. :thumbup:

It's 3M. I asked about the little bits/cracks and discoloring to the installation guy. I had seen my dad's Acura MDX that got all cracked and turned brown against the white paint. It looked horrible.

The install guy said that as few as 3-4 years ago, 3M changed the material to be more resistant to this kind of deterioration. Supposedly, they changed their warranty at this time as well. In the face of my offer to allow him to pull the current stuff away and install new, he suggested we wait and keep and eye on the coating. That was this Spring and it still looks good. I had mine done right at 3 yrs ago, so he thinks mine might be OK.

That was before bug-a-palooza across the states of Montana, Wyoming, and South Dakota. I knew I should have bought and installed that big black bra before I left. :(

I would have went car-show status and just bought a few rolls of Green 3M painters tape for the bugs LOL

At 3 yrs you're ok, you can polish the bra with a very mild polish if needed. PlastX is great for it.

Sorry, it was a little smart@ssish. No worries.

!ouch:Dagnabbit.. I meant Belknap there- not you. Sorry. I didn't find anything smartish in your comments.

But, I suppose if you found your own smarty, then my comments were probably readily found the same way. I apologize also for offense to our friend with the wheels he likes.

Carry on.

Great suggestion! Thanks!

I would have used blue (of course), but I was on the road for 6 weeks! That's as much $ for tape as the silly bra! :wow:

Novis plastic polish works great.

use it all the time on mine and the fish tank

All film is porus. Some less than others, but the installers who are making BANK on them won't say as such.

Granted, a lil sealant/wax does help shed stuff off, but it's just the very nature of film IMO.http://www.pingable.net/images/detailing/oldfilm.jpg