Mother nature is currently washing the salt off my X with a ton of ice cold rain. Thanks mother nature.

Does $290 for auto transmission fluid, gasket and filter change sound about right? I have a 05 4.4i with 95k

That actually sounds very low.

I paid 420 bucks for my trans service at an indy. Make sure when they service it, they are flushing the torque converter as well.

Today I found out that my X5 can handle very deep water.

Driving home from eating dinner, hit a flooded street that came up without warning at about 45mph. The water engulfed the X5, I kept the pedal to the floor and barreled through.

After we were out I went back and looked. Water had to be at least 2-3' deep.

I paid 90 for the filter kit and 140 for the Lifeguard 5, getting it from the cheapest places I could find. I'd say you got a great deal.

thanks! my buddy is a BMW Master Tech at a stealership. I will ask about the torque converter as well.

Suspension 90K mile refresh
new air struts
control arms
sway bar end links
rear shocks
rear air bags
got stuck on the ball joints for front thrust arms :( (new arms and ball joints in the box here still)
reset ride height in GT1 after having moved sensors to new control arms; (wow 1/2 too high in front makes for a hard ride)

Ride is amazingly better now yet it still is a 5300lb vehicle on 19" snowtires on bumpy roads. :D

Found a local indy shop who quoted me $300 labor to swap the front trust arms and ball joints. :wow: Or is that pretty reasonable ?

Why did you get stuck on the thrust arms? Thats the easiest part of the whole suspension.

Thanks for asking ..

I got stuck trying to drop the ball joints out of the steering knuckle.

The T50 bolts came out of the ball joints reasonably well but the ball joints were solidly stuck in the knuckle. Tried a few techniques and failed.

Stuck part is #15 stuck in steering knuckles after removal of #16
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.8is Frnt axle support,wishbone/tension strut

The control arms came right out with mild tapping of hammer (those were the easiest joints I've ever done #10)

I'm all ears if anyone has ideas?:dunno:

thx!
J




>Why did you get stuck on the thrust arms? Thats the easiest part of the whole suspension

You need a pickle fork or a ball joint and tie rod separator. Either will pull the ball joint with ease.

I'm assuming you are replacing the ball joints as well, and not reusing?

If you removed the retaining bolts #14 and #16 (which are E14 reverse Torx not T50) then I would get a nice sized mini sledge, or larger BFH, and be the God of Thunder and hammer it out.

If not reusing then destroy. PB blaster obviously on the whole area prior as well, I'm sure it's rusted on there good.

Since you're replacing the ball joint try turning it with a pipe wrench to help loosen it from the knuckle. The top of the ball joint assembly is accessible along the bottom edge of the knuckle where WD-40 can be liberally sprayed also.

Better still, spray them with PB Blaster. The stuff works much better then WD-40.

:iagree:

Replaced supercharger belt. ALSO, and kind of a BIG deal to me, shimmed out the tensioner pulley with a couple washers behind the inner race of the bearing. Dinan had a washer there but was incorrect width. Belt alignment is finally perfect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...229C6793D3.jpg

Borrowing the work garage for the evening

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...C5637BA41C.jpg

It's been cleaner... I figure I'll get another snowstorm the moment I detail it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...AE6A8E59F0.jpg

Here we go again…Expansion tank
 

I get the Check Coolant warning and open the cap and no float or coolant. I mean the float is gone no where to be seen. What happened to the float? How come the coolant tank is unable to handle the pressure? Two ECS tanks and both didn't make it a year.

My float disappeared after I had my alternator replaced. I PM'd replacing the tank.

The floating device crumpled and the stick felt to the bottom of the expansion tank. Are they aftermarket or Behr? Is your cooling system leaking?

Got it all back together on Friday night. That's one problem solved, but another has cropped up :swear: When I took it to the gas station last night, the ABS/Brake/DSC light trifecta illuminated when I restarted the car. Now I have no speedo, and of course no ABS, etc. Any ideas on what could have caused this? I had the ABS computer rebuilt in September.

Someone can correct me here but I recall that no speedo is a sign that rear wheel sensor is not working.

<Now I have no speedo

Someone can correct me here but I recall that no speedo is a sign that rear wheel sensor is not working.

<Now I have no speedo

I'm hoping that it's that simple. I had no speedo the last time it happened, and it was the ABS computer (but I also had no tach, no A/C, temp guage was pegged, etc...)

Its an aftermarket and coolant is leaking from the bottom. I have another AM on the way. I know, I know buy OEM but she's gone through two of those also. I still love her she just wants attention and money. ;)

Smogged the X. Left the house about 9:50 back about 10:50.

Saw what I believe is teh next Altima on teh way back.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps5d21b70a.jpg

And this.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps0e8db693.jpg

Installed Zex remote bottle opener. Got tired of having the bottle open and not using it or not having it open and needing it.

Nice.

I want -

but for my M3 - NOT the X5...

I went for a drive and tried it. Couldn't hear the motor running and can't look at the switch when driving so I added an amber LED right in front of me in the dash that lights up only when the bottle is opening.

FYI-- the other hole in the tray is for next mod.

I see that you positioned the dial horizontally in the arm rest cargo area so a quick sideways glance while driving can read it... Little touches like that make all the difference- well played.

Why NOT?

Looks like you might need to move the bottle mount bracket back around 2" Brian. I guess the Zex opener moved the bottle back.

Because - As much as I enjoy my X5 when it's working - it's an unreliable piece of shit with 130k miles on it. Take a look at the avatar next to my screen name - that was about two weeks after I bought the car, and it hasn't improved with age. I can only imagine the types of repair costs I would start incurring if I added a 100 shot to the mix...

My M3, however, only has 18k miles on it, and would likely hold up to the added power much more reliably. It would also be MUCH faster than the X5.

I do really like my X5, but I'm also not jaded about what it is/is not. It's an old car with lots of miles that I bought to use as a winter beater. I just get a little frustrated with it when I have to work on it so much...

I was worried I would need to move the bracket so the motor would clear if someone reclines the seat. It is very close but it is still secure on both ends.

Makes sense.

Depending on how far we raced I would not be so sure the M3 would be MUCH faster, ya gotta be able to put it all on the ground.

I was concerned that I had over 100,000 miles when I installed it so I only went with 150 shot and methanol injection on top of the Dinan based 369 HP I already had on my daily driver. Next step is fill the extra hole in my console so I can relive more back pressure and have the capability to have some adjustment to HP and torque output.

Not beating on you or questioning your choice. Your X looks awesome, and from the specs I'm sure it goes like hell. I was just saying that I bought mine for a different purpose, and if I want to go fast, it will be in my other car.

And yeah - I'm sure you could get the jump on me from a dig. AWD and an automatic rule for hard launches...:D

Where are you planning on installing the exhaust dumps Brian?

I didn't take it that way. I was implying I am not in my right mind. I'm not but that is because I am left handed.

I love the M3 and have test driven several. I am still in love with my X and there are so many pickem trucks in Texas I feel like the target victim in Bully land. If you add nitrous you will be amazed at how it feels when you spray. I would either go with a button so you could spray when you won't lose traction or go with a 2 stage system so you could spray some in a lower gear and the rest would kick in later. if you went with 2 stage system it is likely you could spray more than a 100 shot. I am not a fan of the button. It's a pain and too obvious. Unless the road is straight it always seems to be where your hands aren't, like paddle shifting.

Let it go...
 

Today is a sad day, but I have decided to let go of the X5. Torque Converter needs rebuild, and I don't have the time or patience any longer to deal with it. It was good while it lasted. She has been put up for sale as is (hope there is market or someone who wants the repair project).

I am still researching.

Unfortunately I know of no BMWs let alone a X5 to get some input. The best place for HP and flow benefit should be where the down pipes curve toward the back but I have to make sure that both are at the same length from the heads and I don't want to circumvent the pre cat sensors if I am going to light up the dash or lose control of the air/full mix.

If I install them further downstream any gain is more likely torque and less HP. I don't want more torque on the low end. I am where I want to be for launch. There is room to install them after the pre-cat sensors and before the cat and that may be the only option. I would rather not do that because of the loss of flow.

I think the place where I get the bottle filled will be able to answer my questions from their experience with domestic cars if I let them do the install. Bottle is almost down to where I can't heat it enough to get the gauge in the green zone so I will talk to them soon. Phone doesn't work with them.

I have spoken to a custom muffler shop in Lewisville that will do the welding if I find the only 'benefit' is lots of noise or if I become comfortable where they should be installed. I have some concern about the risk of setting myself on fire or going deaf or not liking how it sounds if I don't add a pipe to move the exit point. I don't want it to be visible and they would be able to make the pipe while I am there for the welding.

Sorry to hear that.

:(

Txt sent about the piece we talked about, i'm still pretty sad to hear this.

Got it. If I get no interest in someone purchasing it as is, I will part out as much as I can and that piece is yours.

Sorry. I understand that. Took me three motors including a fully built stroker to give up on my Z.

A crisp, sunny South Carolina morn, a twisting two lane road with no traffic... I couldn't resist... I HAD TO let her run! By the time we were done, we both had smiles from ear to ear...

Then I parked her in the west lot of Plant Spartanburg, to bask in the warmth of the sun with her sons and daughters and cousins... :2thumbs:

Changed cabin air filter. Used the long, skinny vacuum attachment to remove all the sand, grit, dust, bugs, grass clippings, leaves, and random organic matter from the lower portion of the filter housing (over 2 cups volume of crud removed). Sprayed the new filter with Febreze Linen & sky, X smells soooooo clean now.

A crisp , sunny East Montreal morn, -20c with wind chill, a 3 lane highway straight as a nail with full traffic...I couldn't resist .... I HAD TO let her idle! By the time we were done, we both had frustration from there to here...

True story BTW!!!

traffic in montreal I think is worse than toronto

traffic in montreal I think is worse than toronto

To all 3.0D owners!!!!
 

Had a loss of performance ,which was related to a delay in the opening of turbo´s variable geometry,meaning that turbo boost or spool was delayed .
WIth vacuum gun,I checked for vaccum leaks and found that the turbo´s pressure converter (solenoid) was leaking and also from the vaccum pump to the whole system.
Replaced all vaccum pipes and replaced the pressure converter with the EGR pressure converter ,since I dont use it and it has same part # as the turbo converter.Also replaced the vacuum pipes on engine mounts!
Car as good as new after correcting a common issue .So ,hope this helps others with same symptons,as many have replaced turbos and the problem was the vacuum;)

You bet it is. Plus your road conditions are soooo much better than here. We've become the poorest province and it shows.

Cleaned and conditioned the leather.

Just finished changing out to a new set of NGK 4 prong/platinum plugs from the NGK single prong Iridium. Plugs were a perfect light gray/white with typical black around the threaded edge. Cleaned a few things put it all back together and the darn thing drives sweet. Accelerates through the gears flawlessly, stomp the pedal and it takes off smoothly. NO jerks, jams or junk. Stopped at the light and bingo, that dam vibration. Got home, crawled under the car, PRND but no movement with the brake. SO, I twisted the front drive shaft a quarter turn until it wouldn't turn anymore, and back and forth a few times, sure enough the trans axle works fine - twisting the rear shaft perfectly with each turn. While running I could feel no vibration in the front drive shafts or the tranny.
BUT something is vibrating the heck out of this engine. BTW, sprayed half a can of carb spray all over the intake area and around the injectors. No change in idle. I can't find a vacuum leak if there is one. I am completely baffled. BTW, this thing burns no oil. I used a pint during my last 835 mile trip to and fro Atlanta and averaged 22 mpgs.
IF it is the vanos, what type of noise should it be making if it's damaged? THe only thing I hear from this engine is the typical BMW injector tap, no rattles,no loud winning , just sweet exhaust note when I accelerate. Ideas? I really don't want to take it to the dealer.

Alignment re-check. Found 2 problems:
1. Some how the right rear camber set to max positive still shows -3* :(
2. Left front inner and outer tire-rod seized as one piece.

Carb cleaner doesn't always find a vacuum leak. a pressurized smoke test is best route. Have you checked for error codes? Do I understand correctly that you can feel the vibration when transmission is in park and neutral?

Hi Tam! Welcome to my alignment from July.

I zeroed out the toe in rear for now as I don't feel like doing a rear suspension rebuild yet.

I replaced tie rods with Meyle HD for 120 shipped from FCP euro and took an hour and a half of my time, prior to the alignment.

Replace right front air spring and sway bar link .No more waking up to right front drop.

:bustingup Same story here in MN lol!

After two weeks of delays and over two years since the last one. Getting it done at a local St Louis race shop.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/3eputy8a.jpg

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Whole lotta alignment going on!

Waiting for the winter to end and the City to repair all the potholes before I get the X align.

just drove it - waiting for the next part to beak (I'm going to go out on a limb and predict that it will be the drivers window regulator).

Disassembled and reassembled drivers power fold mirror. Replaced internal the gear case and 2 of the 3 gears inside it.

Results are mixed. It folds and doesn't wiggle anymore but the gears inside unit are grinding so I don't think it will last.

EBay seller from Turkey has the gears and motor case if anyone else is interested.


Tomorrow it's into the drivers door handle carrier that broke yesterday right after the mirror motor parts arrived.




http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/y9aha6eg.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/uze4egup.jpg

Installed E46 M3 steering wheel. Like the look and feel of it.

http://junger12.home.comcast.net/~ju...eringWheel.jpg

Jungerishere
Nice touch with the wheel.

ChevDog1
I'll match your window reg and raise you a door handle carrier.

What are those three "lights"? LEDs? next to your main light switch?

I went to Wal-Mart...

and I thought, what the heck, lets change me some oil...

last change was at Jiffy Lube at 99406 miles in October, so 7,000 miles later I think it was a time to change it again... the JF was too much at $37.99, and the WM sounded right at $21.14

Well... I would need to factor into the cost the price of the OE filter at $16.12... and 8 liters (actually, 8.1L) of 5W40 fully synthetic Liqui-Moly (I know engine takes 8.5 liters/9 quarts, but I deliberately provide the mechanics with a bit less oil to stay on the safe side, and then top off in a day or two after driving) at $145 for 20 liters... so 8 liters cost me about $55-60...

total
$21.14
$16.12
$56.00
--------
$93.36

zombie hunter X5
 

I got the tires, waitin on the body spacer and roof rack, also got the Zombie Outbreak Response Team badge, the zombie hunting license front plate and the zombie hunter permit stickers on the front and back. Piaa off road lights, ordered red tow hooks for the front, also putting LED purefire (like rigid but cheaper and from a local company in bartlett IL). Going to be the first and hopefully only zombie hunter X5 E53. Il be making a thread with pics and a timeline soon.:D

It is my stealth K40 radar detector warning lights... :rofl:

Piaa lights. That's so 1990's . LOL

Piaa lights. That's so 1990's . LOL

Zombie hunter lol! Did you get the shotgun shells to match? I know its hot to buy cases of "zombie rated" handgun ammo nowadays on my next bulk ammo order I might get a few hundred rounds if it's on sale.

Steering wheel look nice!

My 2004 X5 is not much newer than the 1990s... :rofl:

Snow'geddon and freezing weather @ chi-town

Oil & filter change 5000 miles (from my normal 7500 miles)
TITAN GT1 PRO FLEX SAE 5W-30 – XTL®

Remove n Replace the rusty plate bracket n frame :
"BMW" License Plate Frame (rear)- Black
With license plate bracket


Will do the front plate next week

Oil change & ordered a new comfort glass windshield with rain sensor using my 0 deductible glass coverage.

Installed OEM hitch setup! Now to find something to tow!

The Polar Vortex ate my badge!

So I had to get a new one.

Jsoto, they were 1990s until i got the LEDs put in, now theyre modern lol. I did an oil change with rotella T6 to see if it is really as good as everyone says. Not at all, i literally had to run to the lubepros to have it dumped and get some pennzoil ultra euro. Next oil change its back to amsoil.

Thanks.

Anyone thinking about swapping to E46 M3 steering wheel, it is about 1.5 inches smaller in diameter than the stock e53 sport wheel. But lucky the smaller wheel doesn't obstruct the gauges.

Beaker truck what didn't you like about the T6?

Just did two new front o2 sensors and rear brake pads I hope this solves my check engine lights??? How do I reset the brake pad sensor light?


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Well I got to go inspect it and salvage what I could from inside after it was involved in a shop fire which leveled the entire building it resided in. Heavy smoke and water damage throughout. Insurance will hopefully be my friend and handle this for me.

http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/13/14/47/91/img_2014.jpg
http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/13/14/47/91/img_2015.jpg
http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/13/14/47/91/img_2016.jpg

That stinks, sorry. Good luck.


I had my windshield replaced. They did not bring the comfort glass I gave them the Pn for. It did have the mount for the light & rain sensor which now seems to be working.

Fire certainly made a mess, hope it all turns out to your benefit.

Just sprayed windex on my windshield with wiper switch in position 1 & wipers ran!

Nice after 6 or so months to have functional wipers & auto lights!

Shame they didn't bring the freaking comfort glass I asked for.

I would have sent them back and told me to bring the correct glass I asked for and come back when they were ready to do the job as I requested.

I agree and normally I would of but I am busy & needed it done.

I have 0 deductible glass I am sure it will break soon as we have rocks instead of lawns. There was a period in my Z where my windshields were broken seemingly weekly.

I am going to call Allstate to say they did not send what I asked for and that it ws confirmed in an email by Safelite yet was not Safelite that came. (the guy was nice, came when agreed & did the job well & quickly)

I finally replaced my rust-spotted rear view mirrors with aspherical versions from Latvia.

Those look nice! I just noticed my driver side got a couple rust spots at the top, I might get these later on. Any chance you could take a pic of what it looks like when looking at rear traffic?

I also FINALLY began opening my spider headlights yesterday, which was A LOT easier than I thought (even with my recently broken wrist from snowboarding). I had them down in the basement since December and was just waiting for warmer weather to paint the chrome housing satin black. Can't wait for the final results! :woot:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...Headlights.jpg

The Spyders do come open very easily. 20 mins at 220 is plenty for me, on the cookie sheet of course, the wife loved that LOL

Jealous that you got a set before they went unavailable from the manufacturer.

Replaced all interior lights with LEDs and well as the fog lights. I like the clean look of the led fog lights with the xenon headlight.


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Haha! I didn't know they're no longer available! Yeah I'm glad I did. I prepared my succulent lights at a warm 250 for 15 min and voila! lol!

Upgrade the stereo!

-Pioneer AHV2600BT head unit
-2 FG P1S4-12 subwoofers
-FG Punch 300.1 amp
-Axxess ASCW steering wheel controls
-FG PEQ bass knob

:thumbup:
So what's the planned mod for them? Hopefully you will paint that chromed housing matt black.

I'm painting it green haha jk :p: I'm actually going to paint them satin black and not doing anything else to them right now. I don't have stock projectors so no swaps and I'm also keeping the ccfl rings for now. Just keeping it simple. I have to save my $ to fix my front suspension, I knew that I had to replace my tension struts and wishbones or control arms but after this winter its squeaking pretty bad. I already showered everything in oil but no luck.

Here's some I took while on the expressway

What bulbs did you use for the fog lights? I'd like to match up mine to he xenons too. Thanks!

Get Hoen xenonmatch bulbs for the fogs if you want to match them stock hid

I am upgrading my headlights by following Ricky Bobby's input. I opted for the HID fog lights. More expensive but much more light and easy to install.

x2 I recommend the Valeo projector housings from BMW for the fogs and an H3C Morimoto HID kit if you want the most light, no glare, and best lighting for the fogs there is.

My Hoen bulbs reference was for the factory H11 reflector fogs, I DO NOT condone putting HID in those. BC did his right and I'm looking forward to seeing his headlights completed :thumbup:

According to the Hoën website, only 30 bucks for the xenon and 40 for pairs of the endurance bulbs? How so cheap? Straight plug n play or is some modification necessary? Tempting..

The Hoen bulbs are halogen, not xenon. For your '02 with factory projector fog lights, you'd need H3 bulbs, the endurance yellow don't come in H3.

For what its worth I have had a set of Hoen bulbs for about 4 years now first on my old GLI and now on my wife's Rav4 and they are still going strong, the best yellow bulb I've found yet for fogs, very deep french yellow.

^bummer... I was kind of digging the endurance, yellow style... Thanks for the heads up!

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Just installed a new EC interior mirror, with compass. I still cannot fathom why we ever would have built a single vehicle that didn't have one...



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Gary is that a retrofit? If so how easy was it to do? Not that I need an auto dim mirror with my 15% tint lol.

Oh and I replaced my upper windshield gasket today, quite easy actually if you take your time and get the hang of it, it's a bit tricky at first, but extremely doable, all you need is a thin and small flat blade screwdriver, some wd 40, needle nose pliers and glass cleaner.

RB, yes it was a retrofit... Kinda. I'm not sure of the part number and can't say if it's even specified for E53, and can't exactly say how I acquired it... It took maybe 5 minutes to swap the old mirror out with this one, and the hardest part was getting the cover back over the wires from the Rain/Light Sensor and the harness from the new mirror. Only tool needed was a small screwdriver to separate the 2 halves of the cover. Especially love having a compass now.



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:iagree:

Ordered a new upper hatch actuator. Putting it in once it gets here. :P

Pushed off 6 to 10 inches of new snow.

Waiting for Spring.....

A day late with the post, but I drove it like I stole it from Green Valley, AZ to Las Vegas with 4 people in the X and the cargo hold bursting with luggage, cooler, etc.

Handled like a champ the whole way, even with a 10 - 20 mph headwind. Saw some interesting readings on the gauges whilst passing some people on the 2 lane bits. :cool:

Got to try out my new buffer. Spent a majority of Sunday detailing the exterior (jet black) from past 2 years of it not having its own garage stall; thankfully that has been corrected and gets to reside next door to it brother X6! Unfortunately it was a victim of a hail storm 2 summers ago, thought I could live with the dented hood (beyond PDR unfortunately) but it's killing me to see it like that. Now to find a jet black hood locally......

What kind of buffer did you get?

I got it at Harbor Freight. Chicago Electric 7" with digital RPM display/control. I wasn't expecting too much with it being from Harbor Freight but it seemed to work great with accurate RPM control (1000-35000).

What RPM level did you use? I just got a polisher from Harbor Freight as well, not digital. 6 in. Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher item#69924. Still to cold in CT.

I started out by applying/spreading the compound @ 1000 RPM and then up to 1200-1400 RPM. For some of the area that's needed a little additional effort to remove stubborn water spots I ran up to 1500-1700 RPM. It all depends upon the conditioning your paint, pad used and compound used. I would start out easy and ramp up once you feel more comfortable or feel the need to, better to be cautious than regret it.

If you want a polisher that will have you throwing all your other ones in the garbage get this.........

Cyclo Orbital Polisher - The Cyclo Dual Head Polisher

I've been using a Cyclo-polisher for around 35 years, last year I got the nano-skin pads to Cyclo-clay bar, takes 1/10th the time of hand claying. My clay went in the garbage too.

Ever wonder how American Airlines got all their planes looking like chrome? Cyclo-polisher.

x2 I really like the smoothness, made in USA quality of Cyclo. And all internals are updateable as well, they also have a variable speed model now which works even better than the original, but like Tiag said, the Cyclo is a tool to be passed down for generations!

Tiag how do you like the Nanoskin pads? I have one for my PC (medium grade) and I only used it on my X when I first got it, its apparently for heavily decontaminated paint so I only use the pad when I'm doing a job for someone, my cars are well maintained now and I have the Nanoskin fine grade mitt which also is a timesaver.

OT on this thread but the first time I used the Nanoskin pad for my PC I was like holy shit this is so much faster than clay!

To the guy above, good for you to have the skill for a rotary, its not something I'm comfortable with. I'd rather use a random orbital with forced rotation if I need extreme cutting power (Rupes, Flex, etc), but for 98% of my needs my PC with 4" pads and backing plate and the 3rd Gen 6" Griots RO work out great for me.

I just finished a project that became the project from the deepest, darkest, devastating depths of hell. Not because that is the way it should have been. Some of the problems were my fault, some were not and some fit the category of--never hear of that before.

I updated my headlights and restored the lenses.

The fog lights are now HID, turn signals are spektrum LEDs and added LED angel eyes. I went to whiter color on everything, mostly because I want to see something different for all the work I put in.

I also added LED strips in the bumper opening. I may remove them but I will wait for awhile to make that decision.

The angel eyes are powered from the battery connection under the hood. One switch is connected to the interior lights. The other switch turns the angel eyes on when the ignition switch is on (I used an empty slot in the fuse box under the glovebox).

I removed all the waffles. I dremmeled the amber portion to match the curve of the parking light housing. I painted the parking light housing black to match the black around the headlights as I didn't want the headlights to be so much of the focal point of the front end.

Ricky Bobby was extremely helpful providing me with all the install and lighting options to consider. Thanks!

HOLY SH!!!!!T MAN THOSE LOOK AWESOME!!!

The mounting of the rings looks spot on, the dremeling of the turn signal looks BEAUTIFUL, and I really like the spray painted shroud on the low beam, very good flow with your Black on black on carbon theme!

Excellent work Bryan, I have a set of LED rings in my basement to do a set for myself in the coming months as it warms up.

Talk about a hell of an upgrade man, I'd venture to say those look better than the Depo's!

Where did you run the angel eye connections to exit the housing? I was going to feed them through a hole and just use a grommet/silicone it.

Wow, second that! They look fantastic!

-Carter

bcredliner, Looks great. And nice job on the turn-signal housing. But not feeling the LED strips on the bumper opening. :dunno:

Thanks for compliments

Other than time consuming the angel eyes were not difficult to install. I drilled very small holes at 12-3-6 and 9 in the housings as you suggested. I stripped the insulation from some small wire I had and then twisted just two strands through the holes and around the AE to hold them in place. I super glued the tab at the top of the AE to the housing and then put a drop of superglue on each of the wires.

I drilled 2 holes in the topside of each of the housings just large enough to pull the connectors through. I had some 'plugs' left over from the roof rack delete that I cut the sides off and then siliconed in. Grommets would be better but it will probably be necessary to cut a slot to get the wires in the center because the connectors on the angel eyes may not pull through the grommet.

When you get ready for your AE project let me know. I have some tips to avoid the problems I had or caused myself.

If you could highlight your problems that you faced/caused yourself I can address, what happened?

Sounds great, the AE's look perfectly mounted, I will be doing the same. My rings are on my basement bench I am just waiting for my EvoXR projectors and new shrouds, my finished product will look slightly different than yours but you definitely have set a benchmark.

Did you polish/sand the lenses or are they just in awesome shape all the time like that?

I am not sure I like them either. I installed them so they can be easily removed. The way they are positioned then can be seen in the daytime. I haven't seen them at night but I suspect there will be some light behind the kidney grills also. Since the kidney grills are a BMW trademark it might look nice. If the don't blend, look like something the factory might have done or are not subtle they will be gone.

I'm trying them out for three reasons. I wanted to do something a little bit different, I had them and I have noticed a fairly new trend of LEDs associated with the headlights and also somewhere else on the front. Everything else I have done on either the inside or the outside has been subtle or ties in with something that came from the factory. I have no interest is mucking that up.

I put in a new windshield for 177.00 installed. OEM with rain sensor.

Now I am wondering if the passenger side windshield trim/molding needs to be tightly sealed against it. The driver side is pretty good but the passenger side has some small gaps. Hmmm

Put in the AFE Stage 1 :) Didn't get a chance to run it around but sounded good revving in the driveway.

Looking at those upgrade LED bulbs for the AE as another quick fix. The dim yellow rings look out of place with the bi-xenon (not to mention the yellow flash to pass inners). Or the fogs. Yep, going down the rabbit hole now.

Later on:
Swapped in the late model lighted shifter knob. Very cool looking, I likes.

Then got a quote to straight pipe the rear - $440 wtf.

edit: No way not going to do it. Went to the competition down the block and they listened to me - got quote to replace the mufflers with bullets and tips, which is what I wanted in the first place. They did talk me out of Borlas saying why pay for brand name they are all just glasspacks. Appt. next week and I can't wait! :thumbup:

Replaced front brakes. OE rotors and Axis Deluxe pads. Still need to bleed system, and bed the pads after the insane coating rubs off where the pads touch. New pad sensor. New rotor retention screws. And swapped my 20s back on while at it. Air tools and 2 floor jacks made quick work of it all. 35 min driver side, 20 min pass side.

By the way. Brake sensor error reset is stupid easy. Key in egnition pos 2, driver door open. 45 sec later take out key and try again. No more error. I had to start the car and turn the wheels to make life easy while the sensor was disconnected.

Replaced front brakes. OE rotors and Axis Deluxe pads. Still need to bleed system, and bed the pads after the insane coating rubs off where the pads touch. New pad sensor. New rotor retention screws. And swapped my 20s back on while at it. Air tools and 2 floor jacks made quick work of it all. 35 min driver side, 20 min pass side.

By the way. Brake sensor error reset is stupid easy. Key in egnition pos 2, driver door open. 45 sec later take out key and try again. No more error. I had to start the car and turn the wheels to make life easy while the sensor was disconnected.

BC, the lights look sharp! I like how you carved out the amber reflector! Huge improvement over stock nonetheless!

I'm working on it! Lol! Currently doing the sway links on the sisters LS then Im'a kick it out pull the bumper off the X to FINALLY get you them projectors! Mark my words, they will be shipped THIS week!

Polished the lenses today! Then a road trip to the defunct Kalaeloa / Barbers Point area searching for my old back roads onto the beach. Unfortunately now all chained up or gated off so no joy. The good news is the roads still deserted so got some good stomping in. The X5 has got the get up and go :D

Replaced shift knob with all leather one and replaced X-Drive transfer case fluid.

http://junger12.home.comcast.net/~ju...199/200/14.jpg

X5nHI, Which polish did you use for the lenses?

Figured I'd finally do me hood latches & cables seeing as The parts have been sitting in a box since last august. Good thing too; as judging from the look of these things it wasn't going to be much longer before I consulted the "Help! Hood won't open" threads! Lol

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...psheyi4krl.jpg

Mothers polish in headlight restoration kit, the one with the foam pad drill bit attachment. First was sanding and buffing with wet-dry 800 - 1000 - 1500 low speed then high speed with 3000 and the polish. Like using a buffer to polish your car the angle is extremely important or can leave marks which then you have to start all over again (you can barely see some hash marks/indian strips on the left turn signal side had to redo it after the pic). Don't press hard in the early stages just enough to lightly remove damaged layer of plastic which will ball up so need plenty water to wash away. Only on the later buffing and polishing steps apply pressure to clear off the fog. It will shine up to crystal clear! Then wax or other protector/sealant.

:thumbup:
Dude! Wow thanks for posting that pic. I'm in a salty air environment and this is one thing I didn't think about before.

Ordered my ADS to OBD cable adapter and a new steering wheel cover piece.

First thing I'm going to un-program is the bloody "auto-lock, never unlock" feature.

See post 10 of the following thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...n-project.html

Problems
My X was manufactured 2/02. I removed one headlight and did the upgrade. When I removed the other headlight I learned that it must have been replaced under warranty and I didn't remember as it was made later and was permanently sealed. I already had the first one done so I decided to open it. I did but it took me a full day to get it open and get the glue removed without ruining the lens or housing.

I got a fingerprint on one of the chrome housings. It is so soft that when I tried to clean it off I damaged the finish. I waited for paints 2 different times that were supposed to be chrome but just as I expected it was a waste of time and money. Fortunately when I painted it black I liked it better anyway.

Not thinking, I cut one of the wires before I pulled it to the AE and it ended up being too short so I pulled another wire and didn't cut it from the spool until I had the AE end wired and routed as I should have done.

Instead of securing the AE at the top with twisted wire as I should have I started at the bottom. When I got to the top I realized my error and had to start all over. I used too fine a wire to secure the AEs and after I had started gluing in the lens I saw that one had broken. I removed the lens and re-did all four AEs with stronger wire.

The website I ordered the Spektrum LEDs from had the part numbers listed incorrectly so they sent me the wrong part. They sent me the correct error free bulbs but they caused errors. I am waiting on in line resisters that are supposed to fix the problem. Each time I had a problem I either didn't drive my X or I had to remove the headlights again when the new part came.

I broke the slot the holds one end of the plastic trim below the headlight in place by removing it from the wrong end so I had to make one and superglue it in place.

I dropped 3 headlight specific screws and had to remove the plastic below the bumper to find them.

The is a cap over the high voltage connection on the low beam. When I removed it one ear broke. Local dealer ordered what we thought was the right part but it wasn't. We found that particular part came with the headlight assembly so I had to locate a used one.

I had trouble getting a good seal on the first headlight. I searched several autoparts stores until I found a sealant that would melt under heat as did the original seal and would flow to fill all gaps when installed.

Had one headlight done and partially installed when I found a gasket that had been out of sight so I had to remove the headlight to install the gasket.

Other than having to open a headlight that can't be opened and the turn signal issue the second headlight went well.

Drove it around. Mananged to confuse my gearbox at one point did something and accelerating it wouldnt downshift, hit the kickdown still wouldnt. but thats normal

Rebuilt my DISA with the kit from G.A.S. My existing flap was loose from wear and tear. The new design retaining screw is considerably more fail-proof than the orginal pressed-in pin.

The result is more responsiveness from the engine AND no more worrying about the retaining pin falling out into the intake manifold and getting sucked into a cylinder.

Got another set of EvoX projectors tuned up with E-55 lens', and a massive air management revamp underway. Ill put this way....amongst other items, prepare for some pure stainless hardline & Swagelok eye candy!! (I'll keep my threads updated as it all progresses).

Installed new front wear pad sensor and cleared "check brake linings"

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03/2003 E53 X5 4.4i SUV M62
03/2006 E90 325i Sedan N52

JUST IN:
1) completed oil change and reset service interval
2) filled up windshield washer tank.

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03/2003 E53 X5 4.4i SUV M62
03/2006 E90 325i Sedan N52

Interior transformation complete as of yesterday.

Titan silver trim set installed with ZHP shift knob and non M 5 speed insert.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/vamezupe.jpg

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Looks sweet RB. Really nice.

Looks AWESOME, RB. If my interior was black I'd definitely upgrade to titanium interior trim. BC's wood trim sure spiffed up my interior.


Wish mine was a standard shift.

Ricky, I love your knob! (Errrr....that came out wrong!! Lmao)
Interior looks dope dude!!!

Looks good RB

RB, that interior looks real nice!
was it the dark wood interior before that one?
and is there some sort of lighting in the under the seats in the back? seems to be pretty illuminated back there

Valve cover gasget both bank ....... + 2 cam sensor position changed (OEM) bought at the dealer ($199 each (:yikes:) what a bunch of stealers ... Both were shot (oil leaks exterior and interior) idle is now much better but still not perfect ....looking at what next need to be fix in sequence to get that idle smooth...

@RB :jealous:

It was actually the Light Poplar wood previously

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/emytana4.jpg

I'm much happier with it being 2 tone now instead of 3 tone, the silver trim and shift knob make it much more "sport line trim" to me

As for the rear lighting that is all stock with smd led white bulbs as replacements in all interior lights.

The only add ons were the oem rear footwell lights which might be what you are referencing, they did not come stock on my 03 but all E53 are wired for them, you just need 2 housings, 4 plastic nuts, and about 20 mins of time to fit them

Very nice RB :D Wondering if the tailgate piece is actually titanium or just colored? Or the mirror bands?

Anyways, just enjoyed and drove the X5 today. Too bad this is a no hunting area although I really wouldn't be too thrilled about strapping one on the hood or something :p:

Thanks X5inHI, and my tailgate piece is Topaz to match the car and my mirror trims are Shadowline to match my Sport Package trim, I think I'm all set with my silver balance haha.

Nice wild pigs you got there!

Just fitted a new Turbo pressure converter that had a vacuum leak and got full performance again :)

Did the upper oil pan gasket, CV boots, timing chain, guides, seals and thermostat. Thats another $2500 (making my total repairs near $9,000 for the last 12 months). Have 131k on the clock

- Trickle Charged the Battery
- Top-off AC Refrigerant
- Wash/Clay/Polish/Glaze+Sealant+Wax (1 of 3 detailing in 2014)



Next: Will work on Headlight Restoration + LED exterior/interior upgrade(s)

Wow a bunch of interesting things have happened here since I last visited.

BC, those headlights look nice!

RB, that interior looks awesome and seeing a MT shifter in there, with that color combo, is perfect! haha

As for me, I replace my water pump and plastic pulley to the black aluminum one. Looks nice and I know I'll be good with those for a long while :thumbup:

Replaced my front rotors, pads and sensor. Meyle platinum rotors with Bosch quietcast pads. Great feeling of accomplishment and money savings. Rear full replacement coming this weekend.

Found a nail in the right rear tire. Too closed to the side. :( :angryfire :explode:

Tam, let me guess... the boss was driving the X! Mine has picked up 2 screws in the last 2 years in the same tire location... both cases had to replace practically new shoes! :(

You're good, Gary.

Every year about this time, I think to myself "I really should teach my wife to drive stick, she should know how to drive my car if needed", then I read posts like this, and remind myself that I haven't curbed a wheel or gotten a nail in my tire in 11 years of driving, since none of the women in my life ever drove my cars.

Then I look at my wife's 2011 Rav4, in 2.5 years she has had 4 patches on the rear left tire. I think I will carry on with status quo LOL

tmv and luvmy03E53
Thats funny I have a nail in my right rear tire too same spot haha It's been in there for the past two years but luckily it doesn't leak air.

argh. Changed the passenger door handle inside actuator and all works fine at that door *but* central locking and the driver's side control for passenger window don't work on that side.

I think what happened was I locked the door installing that little ball joint while all the other doors were unlocked so that door is off the sequence or something? Regarding the window I must not have seated the connectors good? Back in tomorrow I go.

Will be shocked if anyone can top this! Brand new Altima 2008. 6 flat tires in 2 yrs. All tires were hit, 2 were changed twice. Most cases involved multiple nails. Sold in 2010!

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03/2003 E53 X5 4.4i SUV M62
03/2006 E90 325i Sedan N52

installed MB pig tails for my rear tail light burnt out metal plate problem. Now park lights work perfectly.
Also fixed rattling Pano sunroof with electric tape

I can, 3 new Viper Michelin XGT Z rears (335-35 17s) in 8 weeks.

All 3 tires had thru punctures, Tire Rack tried to have me settle for patching each time and I insisted replacement, speed rating no longer applies after a tire carcass has been damaged.

I tracked the Viper and informed them the ONLY way I would accept a patch was if they provided a letter stating Tire Rack held ALL liability if a repaired tire were to fail.

I'm suprised TR still sells me road hazard coverage!

My God, man... what do you do? Drive around following trucks that carry construction debris? :rofl:

I have been expecting we will be killing some tires as there has been ongoing road construction and several new homes built in our area over the last two years. Will likely take another two years before the construction is finished.

I drop way back from cement, dirt and gravel trucks but it is hard to do without being severely tailgated. FYI ---I have been tracking ratio of workers standing around to those working--almost always 5-1.

So far only lost a flat tire on my wife's 335. I consider us lucky.

Lived in St Pete and worked in Clearwater FL at the time. GitErDun pickemups all over the route I used to take!

Tire Rack took a 2k hit in 2 mos with tires shipping mounting balancing.

Nothing too much cleaned the throttle body which I've been meaning to do since I bought her. Figured it needed to at least to be checked out at 50K and doubted someone was meticulous as we are on here :)
It didn't have a severe amount of build up but it was enough to warrant a cleaning without being deemed as a waste of time lol I'm not sure if it's psychological but it seemed to run much smoother and responsive afterwards so whatevs :P
I also cleaned underhood a bit didn't go to crazy just spiffed it up and in the process reconditioned some of the hoses/tubing to prevent dry rot.

Other than that nothing to strenuous or earth shattering just something to do out of sheer boredom ya know :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pso6jlnw4o.jpg
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Put the summer rims back on 20" Staggered Style 214's freshly powdered Matte Gunmetal.

Looks great man, it's funny because I was going to ask if anyone got their rims powdered because I was thinking of doing it with mine lol
Thanks for answering that question :D

Got my caplugs this week, so I finally got around to doing the rear wiper delete! Debadged the rear hatch as well.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/07/zy8e2udy.jpg

The boss says I've now officially made it my car, since she would have never removed the rear wiper. Oh well...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wholeheartedly approve of this FREE mod, nice work Gary!

Mines been off for 9 months, I don't miss it! Looks so much cleaner in the rear too :)

Entertained this:

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/t...psdjnjrj0u.jpg

...but decided it's to much like work for purely a novelty piece of lighting as they would serve no real-world function.

bmwman528e Those 214s look so good! I couldn't afford new so would have to get reps and even that would cost plenty to get over here :-/

Anyways, used the E53 to drive to get Torx sockets to do, you guessed it, the xfr case actuator gear! But for the X3, am posting victory pic here because that forum is so dead. Plus found out about it here anyways (thank you posters). Got a spare gear (same p/n) for the E53 and holding off if/until get the triple.

All error lights gone now and hopefully for a long long time - yay!

I installed my spyder headlights. Finally! haha I had to paint the chrome housing black and tweek a few things to get the lowbeams to accept the HID bulb. I'll be wiring the halos later this week as I didn't have enough time yesterday to finish everything up, and I still need to disable the drl, turn off cold monitoring, and hopefully code a couple more things while I'm in there.
I'll post pics once I finish all the wiring.

X5nHI, I know how that deal goes for those gearboxes. I did my gf's e90x actuator a few weeks ago. I think its freaking crazy that they build these with that plastic gear in there:dunno:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...20/unnamed.jpg

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Plasti-Dipped wheels. Looks perfect even from close up. I am very impressed with the application process and how easy it was. Spacers are 25mm/

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...406_182837.jpg


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...406_182622.jpg

Looks very, very nice! :thumbup:

Last night I ordered all the stuff I'll need for an upcoming inspection 2. I also ordered new shocks/struts (bilstein sport), sway bar links (meyle hd -- since I'm in there anyway), powerflex thrust arm bushings, and powerflex sway bar bushings.

Rocker Guard over Aluminum running boards. More cohesive look, plus the aluminum was starting to get rust spots.


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...407_191117.jpg

Looks nice Mdubs9! Add to the mean and sinister look.

Looks nice Mdubs9! Adds to the mean and sinister look.

Looks awesome! What did you do to prep the metal before application? When you say "rust" do mean corrosion or rust coloured stains? Just curious because they shouldn't rust!

Thanks, I think it looks stealthy.

I just took some T.S.P degreaser to it, let it sit for 10 minutes, the removed it, then just 2 coasts of rocker paint. Went on nice and smooth.

wow this looks so nice! def suits your SUV.
do you think you could link me to where you bought yours?

possibly debating on this. although I do have a silver SUV..hmm:dunno:

Got all the switches and central locking functions back, homelink is working now too so can leave the beeper box secure at home. Timely fix as recent news reported another spate of auto break-ins where thieves take the car reg & ins. doc while also cutting the battery cable. Therefore the victim is certainly stuck so they then rob your house. Paradise Lost.

Ordered some new A-pillars. Originally planned to get the original ones recovered...but for $38 each it doesn't make sense!

...oh yea and I ordered up a Accuair VU4 4-corner Valve assembly for the air suspension. This unit has the added advantage of dual 3/8" Inlet & exhaust ports as well as additional 1/4" ports for each corners' pressure sensor. Im talking about this for those who don't know:

Changed the oil and filter today. First time using Amsoil. Purchased the European Specialty oil made for my '03. Took me 10 minutes to reset the service interval indicator.

First Wash!
 

Not bad for a 12 year old car IMHO...

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/jwil...5-dsc01780.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/jwil...6-dsc01782.jpg

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http://www.xoutpost.com/members/jwil...9-dsc01788.jpg

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/jwil...0-dsc01790.jpg

LITERALLY THAT IS WHAT I SAY EVERY TIME I GIVE MINE AN INSIDE/OUT CLEANING.

Its funny you say that, the E53 has aged so well

Agreed, it's the reason I bought mine at 8 yrs old and 84K miles (in 2010): Condition, Condition, Condition.
An X3 sitting right next to it was in much sorrier shape.

Agreed, it's the reason I bought mine at 8 yrs old and 84K miles (in 2010): Condition, Condition, Condition.
An X3 sitting right next to it was in much sorrier shape.

Just washed and waxed!
 

Just cleaned up the truck, detailed the inside with Mother VLR, wheel cleaner, tire shine and finished with a nice synthetic wax! I also changed out the bulbs on the PIAAs, gonna remove the LED strips and hook up LED off road lights.

Just like me RB...just like me....:cool: hahaha

Started the Powerflex bushing install, did the FCABs. Used a 5 ton 3 jaw puller to press out OE bushes and press in the new Powerflex. Picked up the hydraulic puller for $70 at HF.

Remove the control arms? We don't need to remove no stinkin' control arms! :thumbup:

Filled up today (always try not to let it go under half tank out here). 12.7mpg, yes I have been having fun :D

nice license plates... here is mine - both pics are taken in CR, one is on the way to Panama, the car is very dirty, and the other one in Jaco, with the PA license plate on the car, before the local plates were issued...