Pickup up the T6 for $23.045 per gallon incl tax at Walmart, with the $5 p/g rebate. $18 a gallon ain't bad ... Done last night .....

All done rebuilding the DISA for the MT. I took off the DISA out of auto just for kicks and see that it is worse than the MT was. No codes or pending codes. Just a flap that moves freely. Another GAS kit is on its way.

My MT engine now sounds better at low RPM with the rebuilt DISA. Not sure how much torque I got back, but it feels better a low rpm now that it is functioning as intended.

I also overnighted this from Amazon (prime member) :ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: OBD Adapter/Diagnostic Scanner for Android & Windows.

It works with the 4.95 Torque app and I figured this is going to be nice to have if I ever get a CEL/SES light. This is a baby step for me before I go all out and get INPA,GT1, BACVTECH, or whatever turns out the be the best for my 545i, x5 mt, and e46 xi.

Glad to hear it Riggo let me know, I know you do the Blackstone labs analysis and interested to see that as well :) Bargain at $23 a gallon.

I also use T6 in my 1700cc Triumph with a wet clutch and bike runs smooth as can be. If my wife's Rav4 didn't call for a 20w oil, I would run it in the Toyota as well haha!

RB, I didn't do a Blackstone on the last change [lots of miles in only 90 days .... sheesh .....], but will on the T6 [included the liqui moly 300mg additive, too] in this change and track both (1) oil consumption and (2) compare the Blackstone on the T6 to Mobil1 0w40 Euro. Not a perfectly scientific test/comparison, but should be interesting. I'll do the DISA rebuild next service, and hopefully find what appears to be an intermittent recurring vacuum link in the secondary air pump hoses [svc engine light keeps recurring, reset with my Peake tool] while in there. Squid, I'm interested in your impressions of that OBD software; I'm still using my circa-2000 Peake tool.

I think you will like the t6. I run it in all of my hot running sport bikes. All 6 of them.

One member on the e46fanatics forums posted his analysis and all of his numbers improved. Blackstone wondered if it was a newer car after comparing all of his previous tests.

Thanks for the PM Rb.

Changed the spark plugs on the beast yesterday. Feels alot more responsive so far.
Went with Bosch Platinum 4+.
The drivers side rear 2 were a pain in the butthole but the rest were pretty easy

I hope you have better luck... but I've heard (and experienced) really bad stuff with Platinum +4's. Euro cars really don't like them... imports and older domestics love them. Can't tell you how many +4's we took out of BMW's at the indy I was at for poor running or fuel consumption.

For the euros I stick with (and recommend) NGK Iridiums.

I've read mixed reviews on them.. A week after I purchased them online, of course haha. Hopefully they treat me well. There shouldn't be any terribly adverse (aka expensive or big repair jobs) effects related to the plugs though right? Just the two you said, fuel consumption and running?

I have those on my auto x5 and e46 330xi and have zero issues. Mileage and idle is fine.

I run the Bosch Platinum +4s too (went in 90k miles ago).

No rough running issues (passengers sometimes ask if it's running at red lights, idles that smooth). MPG is good, 400 miles per tank around town, over 550 miles/tank hwy (running 75 mph).

Pulling the Bosch+4s and installing NGKs to correct a rough idle and/or poor MPG could be nothing more then a corrective action that does not correct the root cause of the problem.

The NGKs have a much smaller spark gap vs the Bosch 4s (it takes less energy to jump the gap of the NGKs. The root cause could be issues with the ignition components and/or low voltage).

Pros of Bosch +4s......

1) Longer spark gap (better ignition of fuel/air charge).

2) Center electrode unobstructed (flame kernel path travels towards piston center, causing combustion chamber ignition event to occur in a "center/out" pattern. NGKs "shroud" the flame kernel with a "J" electrode, causing the initial flame kernel event to travel toward cylinder wall. Engine dyno tuners have seen 2% hp/tq increases just by plug indexing, turning the plug so the "J" electrode is not between the center electrode and piston center).

3) 4 possible spark paths (slow motion in cylinder camera analysis has show less the 1% "no ignition" events with 4 path plugs, around 3% with single path plugs.

Nothing but good news if your ignition system can jump the longer gaps.

Changed out a front turn signal lamp socket & bulb. Only dropped one headlamp housing screw into the great void behind the bumper cover before determining it's easier to reinstall if the fog lamp housing is out too!

2002 X5 3.0 276,300 miles
2004 325i 119,700 miles

Replaced my left front axle with an FEQ Saturday morning.

Had the pleasure of that one wiping out my rack 30 miles later and just got my car back yesterday from installing a new GKN, New steering Rack, New engine mounts, all new power steering pressure hoses, new PS res, thermostat, and temp sensor on the waterpump

It was a fun week for sure.

Last post for pictures:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...eak-coils.html

Just giving you my experience with that particular plug. I've run them in other cars as well with no problems. I hope he (and you) continue to experience no ill affects to running those.

After seeing the number of necessary replacements from the +4's I won't recommend or install them for anything European or even new (within the last 3 years or so). Never seen any problems with NGK Iridiums unless they were just worn out or the car was leaking oil onto them through the valve cover.

Just curious how much for the spark plugs? I just bought 8 for my 540i and was charged 13.XX per at the dealer.

They sold you +4's at the dealer?

Bav Auto has +4's for $6/ea.

OEM's for $22/ea

NGK's for $10/ea

Edit: Here's a link for you. http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp?HC1=...=2001&HCM=540i

I recently did the coils, wires and distro in my 95 302 Bronco and while I was at it, I inspected the +4.... 100K+ miles later, it looks great. How does she run? like clockwork. she cranks and turns over faster than the 4.6. Seriously, just a tap forward to start and back, the Bronco fires up and runs solid. It was suppose to go to my 540 before I messed it up so I had a set of extra +4's.

I didn't say they were bad in ALL vehicles... and said older domestic stuff loves them as well as older imports.

I'm glad you guys have great experiences with your +4's. Again, I am just giving you the experience I saw at a euro specialty shop where we saw hundreds (if not thousands) of cars a year. I've run +4's in our old Honda Civic and our Mustang. And they lasted 60k+ miles in those just fine. Everything else got/gets NGK's.

Amazon sell the Bosch for about 5.00 each and the NGK are about 7.00 each.

Sorry I didn't realize +4s were not the oem. I got the oem plugs

Yeah, i'm agreeing with you. it works GREAT in my old 302 Bronco and while they're 5x's more than the $1 copper cheap-o plugs, I'd rather put in the +4 and probably never have to replace it than go though plugs every 30,000 and at almost 200,000 miles in the Bronco, it pays for itself.

I might go with the +4 in my 4.6 in the next 500 miles when she hits 100K. Haven't decided.

I've got all my parts. Now just need some time to get it all done.
- passenger mirror base (wrecker)
- window clips (new)
- roof rail (wrecker)
- hood badge (wrecker)
- upper rear link (ECS)
- tekonsha RF brake controller (eBay or amazon or etrailer)
- trim removal tools
- eBay panorama mirror glass
- vac pump o-rings (bav auto)
- oil filter/change
- CV boot issues

Should get most sorted over next week or so. It's like Christmas with all the parts piling up :).

Well I got the GAS DISA rebuild kit for the auto x5 today and went to work. If anyone has not done this, scraping the old built in gasket takes the longest. The rest is pretty straight forward if you study their site "how to" carefully.

My DISA in the auto was so bad the pin fell out into the manifold when I removed it. Lucky for me it was right by the opening.

The previous owner did some liquid gasket magic on the gasket and used a piece of copper wire to keep the flap attached to the middle plastic part. A ticking time bomb in my view.

I have stacks of service records and I am stunned the shop never checks the see if the DISA was in good shape. No codes or pending codes. I say this because he paid for yearly inspections and nothing has ever been mentioned about the DISA. It is so easy to check. I am at the point where I can remove and install the thing in 3- 5 minutes .

Changed the plugs and coils, despite the back trouble. The X is not short guy friendly, but I was undaunted!

Had to take a lot of breaks, and I'm hurtin' something fierce now, but it felt good to gitterdone myself for the first time.

Now, where's my tramadol?

Ugh... manually lowered the rear glass on the pano roof to be able to close the roof. Wish I hadn't taken the rear glass out to do it... but hey, it's done. Now time to order the repair kit...

Oh... and have to drop the headliner on the wife's panoroof X3 too because the fabric on the sunshade is coming off... :(

LOL, I must really love pano roofs... and punishment.

I use that daily for my slipped disc at c6 and c7 .just so I can work. its no fun.
I`m glad you got er done.

Bad spot for herniations :(

Now I gotta figure out what I did to make it give me codes ;)

been like this since july.
what codes ru getting ?also double check and make sure everything is plugged in properly.

171, 174... smooth idle, runs nice. Gonna check tomorrow for vac leaks... maybe i leaned on a vac hose

- Passenger mirror swapped out. One from the wrecker worked (yay). Getting the outer cover off without busting the small tabs was a bit iffy, but I practiced on the wrecker cover and managed to get mine off without screwing it up.
- New panorama glass installed on both sides (it'll take some adjusting to get used to the new view).
- Window clips replaced. Now I can close the door without it sounding like the glass is going to drop and smash. The two clips furthest from the hinge had none of their tabs left. Nothing holding them on. Awesome.
- Hood badge installed. Two used hotel keys work nicely to get under and pry old ones off :).
- The basic trim tool set I ordered from ECS was perfect. Used it lots throughout these projects.

I'm getting some of the other items done at my indy this week
- CV boots
- Vac pump o-rings (I bought 2 extras for the shop and he's doing the rebuild for me :) )
- Upper rear suspension arm
- Oil filter/change

Not that I can't do the jobs, but at some point, it's nice to look through the glass, work on my laptop and know the pita jobs are being handled rather efficiently. I love my indy - good rates, quality work, I can source parts if I want, plus has a nice office with wifi that allows me to not skip a beat for my day job that helps pay for the X5 :)

Cheers.

Installed new pumps for rear window and headlamp washers. Swapped out the Rain-X wiper arms for new Bosch Evos. Nice to get rid of the squeaking on the glass.

2002 X5 3.0 276,400 miles
2004 325i 119,700 miles

Nice color, srmmmm. Never seen it before.

Today I finished a project that has been waiting for me since December!

Replaced all the rear suspension bits. Subframe bushings, ball joints (don't even attempt either of these w/o the special tools is my advice), control arms (top front and back), sway bar links, sway bar bushings (powerflex to match the fronts), exhaust hangers, sand the infamous integral link. I was going to do the bushings in the monster lower control arm but they aren't as easy as you'd think...so I skipped them. The ones in the arms looked good with no cracks. Interestingly enough, the subframe bushings looked pretty good too, even after 96k miles.

I have to give a bit thanks to garrett.fell who talked me down from the ledge with the integral link install. Man that's a bugger. Trick is to align the link so you can install the top bolt, then the ball joint end, then wiggle the whole assembly (jack it up or down) whilst twisting front to rear and the link will just glide in. I cheated and put my link in the freezer for a while first to shrink it just a tad (every little bit helps).

What brand subframe bushings did you use? I am on the fence about going all in for the powerflex on every bushing I can do that on.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...cff7b76dc1.jpg

Install the pedalbox. Response time is much quicker and even get some pick up between 3-4 gear while using the manual option. Great buy


2002 BMW X5 E53 3.0i

"If you ain't first, you're last"

Also finally installed a CAI. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...17e1de7aac.jpg


2002 BMW X5 E53 3.0i

"If you ain't first, you're last"

^Glad to see you went with the Pro Dry S filter, I love mine.

Were you missing the gasket material that lines the edges of the AFE airbox?

Now's a good time to degrease and dress/protect that engine :)

21Qts of oil changed on Saturday X5,M3, Harley VRSCA OUCH

Thanks, it is called "Grey-green" and has the two-tone grey leather with burl maple wood. I replaced the original wheels with chromed Style 130s to set it a bit apart. I've only seen two other grey-green in the DFW area. It's held up well.

2002 X5 3.0 276,450 miles (Of course the driver's seat shows the wear though)

Replaced my first door handle carrier. Luckily it only took about an hour, but hopefully I won't need to again any time soon. What a seriously over designed handle, and why hasn't the new one been updated? The new one looks exactly like the original one.

I think the new ones have a coating on the metal wire portion that prevents the seizing. I have a new carrier for the passenger front. Not going to do it until the current one actually dies. Just means the wife will have to crawl over the console if we go out together, but heck, the kids crawl all over the thing, so why not :).

Bought a new intake boot. Duct tape on the old one until I can gitterdone.

That is interesting. I didn't pay super close attention to the spring. But the entire thing was heavily lubricated. I expected beefier metal around the usual braking point.

Well there was enough clearance to close the hood with the trim on so I just did without it. Indeed that's one project during the summer.


2002 BMW X5 E53 3.0i

"If you ain't first, you're last"

I ~think~ the point of the gasket is to attempt to create some sort of seal to prevent hot air traveling up and over the heat shield, not to protect the hood from rubbing on the heat shield.

Without that seal it's a hot air intake.

:iagree: The factory intake pulls in colder air if you don't have it sealed well.

Ordered some 30MM spacers for rear today. They should be here by monday. Now the question is will my wife notice? It is her car...

Top off engine oil - 2 quarts

Well it's not gonna do the X any justice with the hood propped open. It won't close with the gasket on.

Its not the intakes fault, either you don't have the airbox seated well enough into its position, or you need to adjust your hood stoppers.

My hood closes perfectly fine and the intake is designed to have that seal on the box.

Rear brake pad install today and thinking I'll break down and get replacement spark plugs and while I'm at it, get new plug wires. I've been keeping up on everything else, it is running great - extended warranty has been a great decision. Ownership without warranty would not be fun in my case.

Getting the equipment together for quicker/minimum touch cleaning.

Karcher pressure washer & snow foam lance......

^Excellent!

Nice Tiag.

You're going to love cleaning the wheels with this !!!!
I use to go through a whole routine with Ace Powersticks, etc.

It makes wheel cleaning easy BUT DO try to avoid the wheelweights with the wand.
I actually took a wheelweight or 2 off when I 1st started as I was so envious on how it was a touchless wheel cleaning regimine.

Good point with the wheel weights. I'll cover them with aluminium duct tape (I started using that stuff to avoid lost weights at high speeds on the Vipers & ZR1).

Went thru my box of goodies in the garage and was reminded that I still have a PLX Devices digital gauge to install in place of my temp gauge, along with an oil pressure sending unit to be able to read OBDII codes, and keep closer tabs on my engine. Holding off till I go on vacation to send my cluster out for pixel repair, and want to do this while I have it out.

Let it sit at the Indy while he searched for 2 new front calipers and brake hoses. The RF brake was smoking when I pulled in - either hose collapsed or caliper was stuck, but he said the other one was on it's way.

UGH.

Got my new intake boot!

Alas, it had a small but deep nick between the ribs. Part supplier is going to send me another one. C'est la diy ;)

http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14gu9vbg.jpg

Are you doing anything else with the intake boot off?

Cleaning the throttle body, doing the CCV job, etc isn't too much more work if its needing to be done while you have the boot off

Will clean the throttle body, not sure If my back can handle the CCV job at the same time... most likely going to have to pay someone to do even this simple job, since my legs don't work right when I try to do anything that's hard on the back.

Drove the X to the airport.........

Took Mom to the airport, saw an M4.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psp1dhqcjt.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4tb1femq.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psdf4ti3lh.jpg

Yeah, they look nice.

Saw a Lime Rock edition M4 at Cars & Coffee Dallas (Classic BMW) in March.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnK88WUIFLA

Looks sweet. Shame about the horrid curved side-marker on the front fender (looks like an after-thought).

Here's one leaving Cars & Coffee, curb test!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miA5qj5ergM

First one I have seen in person.

I also saw about 5 8 cylinder e53s on the drive home which is abnormal, usually see a few a week at most.

Hard to look cool while driving over a median, he was lucky he missed the sign.

So true.

Would bet he did a few K damage.

ok, pulled the door panels off replaced all of the speakers with alpine components spr-60s and still managed to use the factory door speaker pods with a little work and tweaking, dropped it off this morning to have the jl stealth box and alpine pdr v-75 amp installed, also going to re-do the tint on one window while its there. Wash the pollen off it twice a day too..... it's almost like snow here, you can see it blowing around!

Looked like a tie-rod hanging down from the front end... Bet he stopped a couple of blocks away and checked things out, while wearing a very red face and soiled underwear. :rofl:

Upgraded the halogen angel eyes to 20 watt LED's - nice to have the 'modern' look now.
Spent an inordinate amount of time getting the PA soft scanner to work. Resurrected an old laptop with MS Vista (32 bit) and spent 2 hours trying to instal the drivers etc. This was an exercise in frustration and reminded my how much I love my Mac Book Pro and hate Microshite. Oh well, it's done now and that's all this old laptop will be dedicated too. Interestingly when I scanned for codes, it recognised a few, most notably 3 for the electronic auto trans? Cleared them and have yet to take the beast for a test drive. I'll be relieved if the firm shift from 1st to 2nd is gone.... but this only seems to happen when the trans is cold anyway, so not overly bothered.
Learning more about the X each day!

Just put another $515 into new front calipers and hoses. That's about $1,400 in brake work in about a month.

May be selling before something else goes wrong.

Rear diff oil change and transfer case oil with Dex III - it's a 2002 3.0.
Also did the Magic Eraser on the steering wheel, followed by Leatherique.
Amazing how the shiny surface disappears and how black the Eraser becomes.

Engine Oil and Filer at 10,000k interval
As hard as i try, i still manage to get oil and crap everywhere :)

:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Your magic eraser just sandpapered your steering wheel and that's why it's black. I can't recall where this got started, but taking something abrasive will do that to any surface........

You know you can recondition leather by using sandpaper right? Ones more abrasive than magic erasers.

What I did to somebody else's X5!

Got to install a Curt hitch in a local business owners E70 X5, at one of the little shops in town. Was pretty cool, took me exactly 2 hours. He'll ve coming back this week sometime to install the towing module and wiring harness, as the shop hadn't ordered them...
http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...6-img-5314.jpg
http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...4-img-5320.jpg
http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...5-img-5321.jpg
http://www.xoutpost.com/members/mam4...7-img-5324.jpg

Man, that looks like it would rip the brackets straight off the bottom of the transverse tubular member.

Know what you mean! He opted for this instead of the OEM hitch, because of less bumper cutting being involved. :dunno: I think the heaviest he plans on hauling is a 4-wheeler trailer...

well finally did the rear brakes ,pads/rotors. shot a couple of pics. nice no more brake pedal pulsating anymore nice and smooth. :) .
didn`t realize there was brake shoes in the rear for emergency brake. wondered why it was hard to get the rotor off. so I just had to loosen of the emergency brake cable and the star wheel . went quick after that. I know my calipers are still rusty and my tire is dull as hell. but after I finished this job my neck was in a lot of pain from my slip disc. but I did take my time to torque all bolts to factory specs though. also bedded in the brakes .
I didn`t bother doing the fronts since they where just done a couple of years ago and they are just like brand new.
pads are carbon fiber/ceramic low dust (hopefully) .rotors and pads are power stop brakes they seem good so far.

Finally picked up a new spare key for $130 from Open Road in Edison, have only had one original master key since I picked up the X in December 2011.

Also got the updated spring loaded hatch stoppers, and yes they are worth it for $30 per side to have the hatch close more solidly, no more adjusting, and much quieter from the rear.

Do you have the PN for the stoppers? Mine have been rattling. It's annoying.

Sure do

51247171557

51247171558

Takes 5 mins to replace both, just loosen the large nut on the backside of the stopper to remove

^ they work awesome and super easy to install with the bmw shocks . I did put 1 o-ring on each side to stop the spring from sliding all the time, just make sure the o-rings are not to thick or else when you close the hatch the lights at the back of the hatch will stay on,thats what happened to me I was using 2 0-rings on each side and had to take 1 out,now is all good.
anyway heres the link where I got mine from.

BMW X5 E53 Automatic Opening Trunk | eBay

oops talking about 2 different things ,but these are sweet too.

puddin what o-rings did you put on either side? if you got from Depot or something let me know, i'll be ordering the auto-open trunk springs soon as well

I used a kit to restore an M3 wheel. Leather Repair|Leather Cleaning and Care|Leather Restoration Products|Leather Cleaner and Conditioner

heres the o-rings I used .tried the thicker style but the hatch wouldn`t close far enough and the light on the hatch would stay on so I went with the thin ones which are 1/16".

Thanks!

Did you pay north of 35 each RB?

My dealer gives ridiculously good parts pricing, I paid $32 apiece I believe

Thanks RB ordered, paid 8x.xx delivered.

So not today but over the weekend I did the cooling system refresh. Water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, upper and lower rad hoses, pulley, and removed the belt driven fan and installed an electric fan. I've got it coming on at about 200 degrees I think, anyone know about when the viscous fan would have normally come on?

Bought 2 oil filters and enough oil for 2 oil changes. Am currently due an oil change. Lookin forward to changing that o-ring on the dipstick tube, lol...

Do you have a part number for the updated version, or do I just ask a dealer for it?

Its a superseded part number so you technically could ask the dealer for it, they don't sell the old ones anymore.

But here you go Matt

51247171557

51247171558

:thumbup:

Understood, thanks...

Ordered a rear left regulator & vapor barrier

Son-of-a-biscuit $&@!

Ordered mine from the dealership today... thanks for the info. Tired of the hatch rattles...

Probably about a Franklin and a Grant out the door am I right?

@crystal, no problem I actually can remove my felt pads now off the contact points of the stoppers since they fit tighter

I know a guy who knows a guy who runs a BMW parts counter...

New regulator, vapor barrier, butyl tape, and 9 door card clips for $166 shipped.

http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/pc/A...Fn3p-Z8xDl.jpg

At 230K kms, passenger side front and rear wheel bearings, and a ball joint done by my mechanic last week.

Yesterday, I removed the headlight to replace the HID bulb on the driver side. The original bulb still looked good and replacing it did not fix the problem. Now, I'm not sure if it's the igniter or the Xenon module. Quite expensive for a trial and error but I can't think of anything else that could be wrong.

One thing that should have triggered my mind that it may not be the bulb is that there is no message on the dash. There was a message last time when the bulb on the passenger side was out 2 years ago.

Filled the tank, lowest I have ever let it go. 396 miles driven, 17 miles to empty per the computer.

I thought the X took 24 gallons?

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psvd20ilzo.jpg

Yeah, this came up last year.

I regularly put 25 gals in the X (run down to "0" or 10 miles past "0").

LOL at your gas prices. $0.70 higher for me last night at Costco in Vegas! :wow: Sub $3/gallon gas still exists? Who knew? :dunno:

It was 3.03 with .40 cent discount. First time in memory it has been over 3.00.

Thanks, also per your recommendation, I put a bottle of Lucas in.

I add 10oz EVERY fill-up.

This said it treated up to 25 gallons & is I think what I used. I need 2 per tank?

Amazon.com: Lucas 10020 Fuel Treatment - 5.25 oz.: Automotive

That fuel pump must get hot pretty often...

I normally don't go below 1/4.

Still running OE pump, even with the TX/FL heat. I think the Lucas keeps it lubed.

I've run it to the point of fuel starvation once in the past 5 year, 20 miles after "0" appeared. Running to 10 miles past "0" leaves around 1/2 gallon.

I don't run my fuel that low, usually when I hit 20 miles to empty I'm at a station, but have been adding 10 oz every other fill up of Lucas, its cheap to add and seems to run a bit smoother with the normal 93 octane.

20 oz of Techron gets run through the system every 6 months though, regardless of miles. I had a random misfire the other morning on cylinder 3 and 6, which made it run extremely rough and lumpy idle, until I parked the X, went into Panera for coffee, came out, restarted, and it was running fine again. Hasn't happened since.

I think the extra Lucas lately maybe loosened up some crap in the system and it got stuck on startup the one day? X is running fine now.

Above from 5-7-14.

Noticed a small coolant leak last week, pulled the lower cover and found it's coming from the coolant pump seal.

This China made Meyle "Germany" pump lasted 1 year and a few days!!!

Well done Meyle, make it JUST good enough to get out of 1 yr replacement warranty. :rolleyes:

TiAg, sorry to hear that. I guess its OE BMW pump now?

EMP Stewart is also made extremely well, but pricey at $200 apiece.

Do they produce it for the M62?

Info from the Stewart site

Fits all M50/52/54 and S50/52 6 cylinder engines including -

E36 chassis 1992-1999 320,325,328, 323 and M3 - [3 series]
E46 chassis 1999-2005 320,323,325,328 &330 - [3 series]
E34 chassis 1990-1996 520 & 525 - [5 series]
E39 1999-2002 chassis 525 & 528 - [5 series]
X5 SAV 1999-2002 6 cylinder models
Z3 2.8 and 3.0 6 cylinder engines. - 2 door convertibles

Just one BMW pump number, no V8 applications....:dunno:

Shoot I don't see it available, only for the M54 (what I'll use when I have to replace my OE pump)

For Genuine BMW its around $165 and its a remanufactured OE pump, looks like your best option than something made in Cheena.

That's all I saw too, 6 cyl applications only.

Too bad, I would GLADLY spend twice the price to keep China SH!T off my BMW!!!

I knew this WP was JUNK when I saw the slip of paper in the Meyle box stating "This pump may leak during break-in". A quality seal on a properly finished shaft DOES NOT LEAK!!!

sadly, ive done nothing to my e53 , not even seen it for 2 weeks , my son in law fired it up , to make sure it still lives, , she does :)

cos im on holiday in sunny Orlando :):)

surprisingly , ive only seen 2 x5's so far, a white one and a black one ,

I must remove the resonator and fit a x pipe when I get back , the constant sound of a v8 , is making me feel jealous :)

Changed oil, cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body, purring like a kitten...

Replaced the oil dipstick tube o-ring, since it was slowly leaking from there. Not a fun place to get to, that o-ring...

^I didn't enjoy it either when I did my CCV job, took me about an hour just to get the O-ring seated properly and the new dipstick tube secured to bolt it in.

Replaced my brake light switch as my 2 year, intermittent ABS trifecta, even after rebuilding my ABS module, would still come around. Only code thrown was for brake light switch so it was replaced today, and I also cleaned and lubricated the clutch pedal spring as it was full of gunk when I was under the pedals working.

Also finished the install of the updated spring loaded hatch stoppers, very satisfied and no longer needing felt pads on the top hatch resting points. Rest of the weekend will be dedicated to running the angel eye harness for my Spyder headlights, and replacing the inner black door handle on the passenger door panel (peeling), if I'm really on a roll I will replace the regulator clips as well.

Picked up my E70 front wiper arms/blades as well from the dealer, small shortening of the passenger arm and I'll be able to lift my wiper arms without making them vertical when washing the X, and the updated wiper design will be a welcome addition as well :)

Still sub'd for pics of your Spyder's installed!! :thumbup: :popcorn:

Front diff oil replaced. One stiffener plate bolt was NOT very tight. No longer.
Indy replaced the RF axle yesterday. CV boot was cracked in every "valley", so a preventive measure.

New LED Depo's & Lamin-x film came in today. Yay new stuff from a UPS f-up.

Do you still have OE headlights installed?

change 7.5 liters of oil and filter today, got summer wheels balnced, no shake at 80 km/hr anymore.

Ordered the new FSU. Took care of the intake elbow.

Ordered a set of 255 55 18 Nittos for my MT. I can not make up my mind on which 20 inch wheel I want so I am keeping the beat up stocks as my winter wheel set. Well, winter wheel with all season tires, but whatever.

took a lot of time and detailed the X , including cleaning and conditioning the leather, which I think was never done, also shined up the tires. ect.

Something like this deserves pics!! Come on, now... :popcorn:

here ya go

the leather looks a lot more shiny in person looks black. the camera dulls it out for some reason

:thumbup: Love the looks of a cleaned up X! :thumbup: for spending time with her...

thanks. it takes me longer theses days with a slip disc in the neck (I`m only 43), =lots of breaks but I have determination though, I hate a dirty x5 .

Today I did headlights restoration, but also recently I added 25mm spacers in the back and took the railings off :)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5345/1...0d1705ef_b.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7781/1...222bb676_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5459/1...61cf2dce_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5443/1...6ee46548_b.jpg

Which Nittos did you go with?

I see you have the weathertechs. I find them hard to clean and that little low spot at the back corner next to the door sill is where the water drains off under acceleration, going up my driveway, or just because. Ugh.

Today I,

Installed new Depo housings with auto-level & v.2 LED's (got them from fishcake321 on eBay)
Installed a LH folding mirror motor cover (sourced this on eBay from Germany)
Cleaned the RH mirror auto-dip contacts

Nice to knock out little things!

Seriously?! No pictures?? Everybody should know by now I love pics, and something this major constitutes LOTS OF THEM!!! (i'M TALKING IN MY OUTDOORS VOICE!!!)

LOUD NOISES!!!

Ok, so before pic a little back story.... I bought Depo's with v.1 LED's from speedstersource.com aka fishcake321 on eBay in '09. A month ago (4/2015) one ring had half of the LED's go out. He said to send it back under warranty for repair. (5+ year warranty!!)

So I sent the Depo's back for LED repair, and UPS fucking destroyed the boxes. Insurance paid for a new set + Lamin-x 12mm clear film. Would buy from fishcake321 again and again.

I can't get a good far off pic, the LED's just wash out the lens or w/e and my cell camera isn't cooperating. BUT, here's one good pic from the v.1's It's an oldie but a goodie. ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../IMG_7034L.jpg

THANKS! :thumbup:

Count on UPS, FEDEX (insert random delivery service here), to screw up time and again. A proven fact.

I've just looked back over some of your previous threads, looked at all your previous pics (I look at them from time to time :D), your SC setup makes me drool. I'm threatening to buy one as soon as I get another DD for my wife, so that my IS is more available for garage time...

Just read over your install of the PLX devices, makes my liver quiver just looking at that cutting. :yikes: Nonetheless, I'll be installing mine this summer when I have my cluster out for pixel repair.

Are the V.2 LEDs in your current headlights any different than the previous? Same color temp? Do they have a purplish tinge to them, same as the pictures?

:thumbup: Makes a world of a difference in how your vehicle looks!! Lookin' good...

NT420S

Discount tire has them in that size for 100.00 each. They always have a visa rebate deal on Memorial day. I get a 75.00 one back in the mail.

I really like the weather techs , just wish the passenger mat went up another 4" higher though. they definitely protect the carpet under neath though. especially with our winters with road salt.

No way. I was just thinking of ordering those but at 600. Where on DT did you find them at 100 a piece?

fixed my 6 stack cd player int boot , it was being tight , wouldn't give me my cd's back :)
all fixed :)

I have had mine for 2yrs now, love them in the dry and wet, but you better have the snows on if you get more than a dusting!!!!

Another caution about them is they do develop flat spots if you leave it parked for a day or 2. It will take till the end of my block for them to become round again, but no real big deal.

Thanks for the heads up. I do have winter tires. These will just be for summer. I also couldn't decide what I want to do for summer wheels so I'll get these and worry about it when they wear out.

I found them to be good in the wet, and fairly quiet, not the quietest ever but for the money.....

and so far so good on wear

Please note! I had to do some reconfiguring of the DM-100 bezel and plastic weld it into the cutaway opening of the cluster. Be careful cutting! I would offer to do this at a cost for you if interested. Just throwing that out there.

That photo of the v.1 LED's shows them a little purple-ish when in reality the light is white. The v.2 led's are a bright bright pure white.

Thats good to hear. I have read some great reviews. The only negative I have read is that they are terrible in the snow, which I do not plan on using them for anyway (I have new Lattitude Alpins for that). I don't plan on driving the X5 that much in the summer anyway, so dropping a ton of money on tires is something I'd rather not do, but I don't want to sacrifice safety. I have had good luck with Nittos in the past.

Replaced my batter with a Super Start Extreme from O'Reilly's... Not a bad price with the Memorial Day $20 coupon. ~$150 out the door after the core was returned (had a spare battery lying around that was toast as there is still some life in the Autocraft that came out of the X5). Specs at the link below.

Super Start Extreme 49EXT - Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I only replaced the battery as a preventative measure. The one in the truck is from 2012 so not that old but I wanted a larger reserve capacity vs. the Autocraft one. I'll use the one I pulled out on my test bench for amps, wiring, etc.

Also replaced the bump stops for the rear tail gate with the newer designed spring loaded ones. Definitely worth the ~$38/ea the dealer charged me for them. Thanks again RB for the tip about the redesign/superseded part.

I was kinda looking forward to the challenge, but as always, seem to busy to get anything done I really want to. :( We'll see. PM me a price on doing the install for me...

:thumbup: Would love to see it in person!! My Morimoto XBs have really (REALLY) let me down. Half of the LEDs have gone out on two of the rings. I never really liked the looks of them anyway, they seem a bit to green for my taste. I have another bright white Ebay set waiting to be installed. (Again, as soon as I find time. :()

Did the hatch stoppers which came today, had to buy a 30mm socket.

Glad to hear they worked out well for you boys ^ @ e30 and crystal, yes at first I thought to myself wow $34 apiece, but they are definitely a superior design to original. I ended up using an SAE socket which I had around in my toolbox from Harbor Freight. 1 1/8 or 1 1/4, I forget, it was a tad loose but it turned the nut just fine on the backside, it wasn't super tight anyway just snug.

@RB. Did you have to adjust yours?

My pass side kept the hatch open enough to keep the light on. I twisted it down a few turns.

Yeah you def have to make sure those nuts are snug, but its not like they need 300 ft lbs.

I just did the German Gud n'Tight on both sides, no issues and no adjustments needed, I don't have soft close hatch either.

I meant the rubber side that impacts the hatch. They screw up & down. The pass side was too high, kept it slightly open, enough the light stayed on.

Inside on the install, I just torqued it as much as I could.

These bump stops are 'spring loaded'? Do you have the part number handy?

From RB

Weird, I actually didn't think to spin mine down any, I thought the "spring loaded" type would be taking that adjustment out of the equation. I will take mine down a tad perhaps as my trunk is shutting very solidly lately, although it hasnt popped open or left the light on or anything.

Same as the old stoppers,loosen center screw and screw in the rubber portion then tighten spring up again?

Yup, they turn. Up or down. Super easy adjustment.

Ordered INPA/SSS/DIS/NCSExpert. Think I'll be installing Windows XP on my laptop as a second loader. Hopefully all goes well with that, wish me luck...

First real drive all noise is gone from the back of the X. Well worth the 8x.xx.

Thanks RB!

Isn't it great man! It was so worth it for me too as I have the non-soft close hatch. The hatch closes nice and snug now and no rattles anywhere from the back :)

Glad to hear all worked out well, Matt good luck on the Romanian Suite install and yes a dedicated laptop is always a good thing for it!

Whoa. So this mod is to eliminate noise as well? Sign me up. I thought it was just so you could have you hatch close softer.

No its an improved design to keep the hatch more secure and less rattle/movement when closed. the 2 part numbers are a few pages back.

Side note, installed my drivers side E70 front arm/wiper today, it is bad ass and bolted right in (prying the old arm off after its been in place for 12 years though, SHEESH!), now just need to get the passenger arm shortened and we are good to go.

slide hammers work awsome with the L shaped attacthment. there wasn`t 1 wiper arm I couldn`t get off while I was doing bodywork years ago.the only thing with the slide hammer is , you have to be careful the wiper doesn`t fly off and scratch the paint.

Good call on that, I ended up using a 15" adjustable wrench as a pry bar LOL. Few taps on the stud with a mini sledge to "wake up" the connection a bit, and it popped off, probably wasn't the prettiest thing.

I put towels over the area because the tools and wiper arm did fly off as it released haha!

Sadly dropped it off at the dealer today and said w remorse so long😥

This happened.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps1cb9zddf.jpg

:thumbup: Can't wait to start playing around with it..!

Looks like they are getting along good.

How is the bite healing?

:(

mam4.6 I got my romanian suite installed on my daughters lapt top , but still haven`t tried it out its been over a year now.

They play too rough & have to be watched but no more fighting.

Arm is fully healed, just ugly.

Thanks!

^^Thats awesome!!!

Oh boy, this is a long time coming. F'ng blower motor died, replaced the FSU, didn't do crap. Took it to the stealer, $3500 later, new blower motor, new evaporator and recharge and I'm good, until the weekend when the drivers door handle carrier and rear boot lock mechanism broke. Back to the stealer.

Today, I found a set of brand new in box Dinan free flow exhausts on eBay. Bought it now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would benefit your wallet greatly if you found an independent service center.

The lisle wiper arm/battery cable puller tool works great and no fear of disaster. :thumbup:

Leave the nut on the end of the splines by a few threads. The arm cannot become a flying object then.

Do you by any chance know of a website that has a lot of information that is specifically for e53s showing how to work with those programs on our X5s? I've got a second lap top with Inpa, NCS-expert,E-sys,NCSDummy and couple other programs but have never worked with them before and wanted to do some reading before I hook it up and start playing with it.

Make sure you can connect to your car first. No sense reading if you can't get the hardware talking. I had a lot of issues with my earlier installs.

I believe bimmerforums has a software section and guys there are quite helpful. There is no all inclusive manual that I've found, so it's really learn as you go. If you need to bleed brakes, you search the forums and find the brake bleed routine. If you want to adjust your ride height, same thing.

^^^Do yourself a favor and get a battery charger for running diagnostics. Running DIS is extremely sensitive to voltage, and you won't be able to connect to the vehicle if voltage is reading too low.

Besides that issue (trying to run it with just key in position 2), I haven't had trouble running my software

This is awesome!
https://www.bmwcca.org/news/2015-car...lub-edition-m4

That would be pretty sweet. I have been contemplating reinstating my membership.

http://www.motodok.com/Documentation...-Diagnosis.pdf

BMW forum. Diagnostics, coding, programming, repair BMW vehicles. - Powered by vBulletin

BMW Coding Forum

Making sense of INPA, EDIABAS, NCSExpert, NCS Dummies, DIS/GT1, EasyDIS, & Progman - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

:thumbup:

^ thanks for the links, I guess I will read and learn, and I thought I already knew everything lol

+2 thanks mam4.6. It'll be a bit of a learning curve for me too. New to all this programming stuff. I have many 'old school' vehicles in my stable that I've worked on over the years (points, adjusting valves, timing etc.) and have that pretty down pat, but this is a whole new ball game for me....
Did spend yesterday morning in my 'workshop' while it was pouring down. Basic service on the X5 - oil, filter, serviced K n N filter, checked CV boots (all fine), overall inspection of steering components (all good too). Noticed a minor leak at bottom of power steering fluid reservoir, so will keep an eye on this. Very happy with my recent purchase (3 months ago). First BMW ever and quite impressed with the vehicle so far, but heaps to learn about it and much to monitor too. Out of our 11 vehicles (some business) my wife likes the X5 best of all, so that's half the battle won from my perspective.

Ordered extended fender flares!! :cool: Can't wait for them to get here...:bounce:

Nice! Who has them in stock?

Anyway, new rear tires (Bridgestone Turanza ER30 285 45 19's) and alignment time for me.

Rear
Camber 2.04/2.09 to 1.46/1.51
Toe 0.15/0.30 to 0.10/0.10

Front
Camber 1.02/0.21 to 0.20/0.17
Toe 0.35/0.34 to 0.04/0.04

Found quite a few of them available, but I ordered from Laurel Bmw in Westmont, since they were cheapest at just under $150 per side.

^ I see, thanks!

What flares are you getting btw? I assume fronts?

That's correct. My IS has rear flares, I've wanted fronts for quite some time now. Flares and 315's will be going on fronts together. :D

Awesome. You will love it.

Kick ass Matt^

Part #'s are readily available, if your dealer doesn't have in stock they will order them for you. Need a front flared left and front flared right wheel arch, and 14 blind rivets from BMW

Finally got around to ordering most of the little crap that was driving me nuts about my interior. Gonna work on getting most of it put in tomorrow.

New steering wheel cover
New grab handle plastics
New door lock pin covers
New upper and lower B pillars and a bunch of broken misc clips around the interior
New center cubby to eliminate the useless phone holder

^^Glad to hear Olek, yes I have a peeling door handle I am hoping to replace this weekend as well, those little things missing clips and such bug the hell out of me

I would also like to replace the redundant phone holder in mine, but not sure how/what with. Would be obliged if you could give me a heads-up and pic of the replacement 'cubby' please.

+1

I got a blank pocket to replace the phone cradle, but then Bluetooth pairing stopped working. Needed the little button in the cradle connected for the pairing to work