Considering most people have reported having to use a 15Ton press to press the bushings out it just amazes you at what kind of force are on those bushings, that is nuts!

After second look, your right... :o

Painted my calipers black over the weekend.

Which Dueler did you go with? I just put some H/L 400 RFTs on, as I found a great deal on some barely used ones that I couldn't resist, even though I don't like buying used tires. The guy I bought them from told me that these are OE on newer X5s, but I'm not sure about that.

I haven't had a car with run flats before, and I'm not sure what to think yet. They are HEAVY. Added at least 5 lbs. to each wheel, and I felt the difference instantly. However, right after I got them mounted, I managed to get a flat :rofl: Miles from the nearest tire shop, so it was nice to be able to drive home. They are also relatively quiet and should last me a long time. I hope their grip in the snow is OK...in a few months that will be the ultimate deciding factor on whether I keep them or not.

No covers, these are modded cts-v rotors and calipers (brembos) w/ hawk pads and custom brake lines. I built the kit myself. slightly bigger rotor but the whole set-up (even with the cheapo one-piece rotors) saves about 15lbs per corner and the rotor is about an inch bigger. And they cost about 1/5 the typical BBK. Ill get some other pics soon

^ DIY write-up is better than any pics ;)

a quick synopsis of what is entailed to build these...CTS-v rotors and calipers. The rotors need to be machined to accept the x5 hub...bolt pattern is the same 5 on 120mm and retaining bolt will need to be drilled/chamfered. the calipers can be mounted one of 2 ways, both require machining. the simpler way I did was to machine the mounting tabs down to clear the spindle, drill and tap for 5/8 bolts in the caliper in the new bolt locations. machine/drill brake tabs on spindle to 5/8, machine a .667 stand-off for the proper offset. The other method will require more machining of the caliper and to build them into a radial mount...i may still do this but im feeling lazy on this project now as it works great currently. you will need a 10mm banjo for the caliper to -3 braided line to -3 to 10mm single flare to adapt to the factory brake line. Clearances with a 20" wheel were close with the knock-off wheels but have plenty with the my new wheels factory wheels. Total cost was about $500 and about 8 hrs time....mostly measuring and fitting.
The only pic i have during the fit-up
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9a2b9c2b.jpg
new satin finished wheels....same wheel as before just much nicer looking
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps718d960a.jpg

Fuel pump is in. It was easy & I would have been pissed if I spent 80 bucks on the retaining ring removal "tool".

Immediately the gauge that had been at just over 1/8, with the light on & the display showing 38 miles remaining went to just under 1/4 with 53 miles remaining, no light.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psee7d9304.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4b9631d0.jpg

DilloninCo, I do not remember by heart, I'll have to look at them later, but they were not the run-flats. Since it was Saturday when we had them replaced, we didn't have many options. Although, even if we had, I doubt I would select the run-flats, I am too old fashioned for these.

Very impressive, mate. You've certainly done your homework here. I reckon you could sell these as a kit to people and be rewarded for your work. :thumbup:

E30 -

How's that Avic Treating Ya. How are you playing / connecting your phone for music (assuming iPhone).

Fuel pump was easy one like I said. Glad it worked out. I did mine at 110 just as PM.