Third best advice... don't let anyone ride in your X5. :D I have yet to break a door handle on 2 E53's and 2 E46's. *Knocks on wood* BMW did not do us any favors designing the slight curve up motion to open doors on those models. People are just too used to pulling straight out. And for some reason, with their shoulders and torso for added torque. :dunno: It's a door, not a bank vault people.

I agree. Two lock works if you're the only one using the car. But then you develop the habit of unlocking only once, and your travel mate yanks the handle when you open your door and forgot to unlock the second time.

This happened to my 2006 330i a while back. My wife got impatient while I frantically click the unlock button as she furiously yanked at the door handle.

The result was a complete failure of the lock mechanism so now the door won't lock or unlock with the remote control. You can only open it from the inside handle.

I think that episode was also the source of a mysterious power drain on that car.

I think that's why they redesigned the E70's door handles so it pulls outward instead of upward. And the effort needed is much less now.

My niece was yanking at the right passenger side door handle this one time. The handle slipped and made a huge slapping sound. She panicked, looked at me with frightening eyes while she quickly tried to reopen the door.

It was really funny. But I didn't give her beef. She was scared enough already. lol

:iagree: Bought new, have never replaced a door handle.

Can this be done with a Foxwell? Just got one recently from another forum member and am learning how to use it. Great idea.

E53 door handle mechanism has a known weak point where majority of breakage occurred.

After the original driver side handle failed, I bought a cheap chinese knockoff mechanism for 20 bucks, wrapped that weak point with a thin metal zip tie. Been working great for over 3 years!

Unfortunately not Henn28. Foxwell is a bidirectional diagnostic tool, and a good one. But doesn't have any coding capabilities as far as I know. :(

Put in the new aux fan.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pJ...WV268Etgw=w768

Finally finished clearing the 5088 L1-L4 code...

The console requires 2 midgets, 1 contortionist and and a wife that brings mixed drinks.

I couldn't believe how much corrosion the wiring had from drinks in the cupholder along with a suprising amount of dust (1/4")

I also redid my transmission filter and new fluid (Meyle @60 SAR per liter[emoji2962]) as Valvoline Max Life($4.95 USD per liter) isn't in country but I have some coming in the APO soon so I'll be repeating this part in a couple of weeks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fe8b53bbf1.jpg

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Replace ONE of the rear Oxygen sensors... What a BeeeYatch! They are definitely orig on my '05 3.0 with only 137k miles. And I live in a rusty state.

The sensor just laughed at my O2 sensor socket tool..

We first cut the wire, then cut the sensor with a sawzall to get room for a good deep 22m socket, applied heat from a mapp torch then we cranked and cranked. Finally came out, but left all of its (the sensor's) threads in the hole in the exhaust.

Off to Advanced auto for an $8 O2 sensor thread chaser. It felt like we chasing threads, and not cutting new ones, but try as we might the sensor would not go in perfectly square to the hole...

We have it installed, And I don't have an exhaust leak I can hear, so maybe I am okay.

I am having a shop do the second one.

2002 4.6

Changed Timing chain guides, all gaskets and seals, everything on the intake manifold, valley pan, plugs, coils, power steering hoses, vanos seals, vanos solenoids and everything was said and done, installed the Dinan stage 1 tune. Love how smooth the engine revs and how relatively quick the truck is.

Love the shocked look on peoples faces when I open her up on the highway.


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Super awesome. DIY or a trusted mechanic?

I have a great tech here, who did the job dor a great price.

I ordered all parts from ECS tuning as well as FCP Euro. Everything is OEM or OE.

Only sitting at 123k miles and loving it.




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That's my dream scenario! I've heard of the Dinan stage 1 tune. How does the car drive compared to before the tune?

Snappier when you tap the gas. When I’m in “sport” mode and let go of the gas, I get some nice burble.

I haven’t been paying attention to see if the rev limiter did in fact move out a little bit.

To me, the price point of the tune warrants its use even if the gain is minimal.


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I wish I live in VA now! LOL

A shade over 130k
 

The E53 is doing daily duty ferrying the kids around town for summer activities and shopping. So, to address the slight roughness that INPA showed, I replaced the MAF with a Pierburg that I bought on Amazon. Runs smoother and, I hope, a little quicker.

Since mid-May the SES light has been on. There were two codes, one for the aux fan and one for the tank vent. Aux fan was solved by cleaning the connector and putting some dielectric grease. Ordered a new gas cap from FCP which, very promptly, fixed the tank vent code.

Next is replacing the o-rings on the fuel injectors. I also got the top rubber insert for the windscreen as replacing the glass, that has been cracked since 08 or 09, should really be replaced soon.

New front brakes. Gotta do the rears in couple of days.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gD...tkvRbUCDg=w512

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0f...5Uv14-RDw=w512

The X5 itself.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gd...23WvsvRA=w1024

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"Loaded up the truck" for a trip up north.

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Had more time to pack on my return trip. It's amazing how the Packout fits as if the e53 was built around them.

Holy $hit!. That must be one helluva project you're off to!

if you carry that much gear, you need a cargo trailer
 

I can't imagine stuffing my 20-year-old X5 that full of gear, without worrying about the added wear on the interior, or the strain on the suspension, especially. Even though you've kept yours in top condition, I'm sure it's not good for it (nor intended by BMW).

Spend a few bucks, and either rent a small U-haul trailer, or buy a small cargo/utility trailer from Northern Tool, Tractor Supply, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. and just tow it. Believe me, it'll be better than stuffed full of gear (i.e.=no torn seats, no unpacking for your spare tire).

My X5 is my work truck and is quite literally built to handle what I throw at it. The weight of the tools is half the load rating of the e53.

Pickup trucks and work vans are worthless to my work method for many reasons.

https://youtu.be/uQepI0ntrhg

It takes less than five minutes to unpack with the Packout the main reason for the upgrade is I can get all the tools out of the way for a tire change in a reasonable time now.

New Steering Wheel
 

Picked up an e83 Sport steering wheel for $70 at the local pick N pull. Cleaned & conditioned the leather, bought a new trim piece and it looks amazing.

Wow, nice steering wheel. Is it plug and play?



I carry tools but not that many! Poor jack is all covered up.

Ever considered adding the OEM cargo net? ;)

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTQ3WDEwM...d4CYB/$_86.JPG

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY5WDEwM...d4CYB/$_86.JPG

It would probably get in the way more than help but I prob would have got one before Packout. The cases lock together so they don't go flying when I hit the brakes.

Toy jack that comes with the car!?

Bwahhaahhaa.

I have a 2T aluminum racing jack in my rear right footwell. Also, high torque Impact is in the trunk. (I usually have a wheel or four I could use as a spare without digging into the trunk).

Yep, 100% plug and play.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

That looks legit! eBay is selling one for over $1100! $70 bucks is a steal!


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How much smaller is it than the sports E53 steering wheel? Can't get the perspective from the pic.

bit the bullet and bought an OEM fan clutch (including fan, apparently new design). Hope that will cure my dysons syndrome :D

Rear brakes done.

Outer diameter is identical, but the grips are much thicker on the sport steering wheels.

Just measured all three:

- e53 4-spoke
- e53 3-spoke sport
- e83 3-spoke sport

They are all approx 39mm. Edit: 39 CENTIMETERS. :banghead:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

39cm?


Aka 15-3/8 in for folks on this side of the pond. (busting balls, your profile shows tx was surprised to see cm used but I often use SI units talking about cars designed and made with them).

:doh:

Yes, Centimeters. Thank you.

I thought you maybe meant the grip diameter which could be very close but you said the sport are fatter.


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I'm not a fan of the big seat cushion look air bag. I looked into heated wheel option for my '01 three spoke but all options I found have the after thought looking airbag. My airbag fits right into the wheel between the three spokes.

For fun, I measured all three grip circumference:

e53 4-spoke = 10cm
e53 3-spoke = 10.75cm
e83 3-spoke = 11.5cm

(these are all unheated with original leather)

10cm I think you measured the circumference. 10/3.14=3.185

3.2cm=1.26 in sounds about right


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Yep circumference.

(I can't math today)

I gave up on math when the alphabet got involved.

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Straight math is better. The X5 now has a book where only addition is used. :p:

you forgot the costs involved
 

Don't overlook the subtractions made to your bank account while adding to the project book.

I've only owned my X5 for <3 months, and driven it <50 miles, but I've spent $$$ on the "little" things:

• panel fasteners & pry tools,
• more metric tools (needed for anticipated use on X5, not needed on other cars),
• specialty fan removal wrenches (not used),
• everything else needed to convert it to an electric fan (including using a dedicated smartphone to accurately monitor coolant temperatures),
• basic seat covers (to protect original leather seats) & floormats,
• light bulbs & lenses (license plate lights),
• replacement intake tube replacement,
• headlight renewal kit,
• (unbent) tow hook,
• basic necessities for any of my vehicles (fire extinguisher, worklight/flashlight,
• spare fuses & fan relay,
• onboard basic toolkit (including scan-tool with BMW programming added),
• extra coolant and oil onboard,
• registration and insurance costs (not needed on the Chevelle drag car I traded),
• and so on....

The previous owner had just gotten finished with major renewals/overhauls of cooling, suspension, engine (including Vanos , timing chain & guides), and driveline systems, that I shouldn't have to do again for awhile. It drives great, and there are no obvious items to renew quite yet. He just neglected to button-up loose panels and touch-up worn interior pieces before he traded it to me. The viscous fan noise didn't seem to be noticeable to him, but I'm more sensitive to those sounds, so it was replaced almost immediately.

Perhaps the BMW gods will smile on me, for intentionally asking for this X5, over newer/more capable offroad/cheaper to fix Jeeps that were available. I always wanted a BMW since the '70s, and this might've been my last chance to have one (at 70+).

That's not much at all. Sounds like with all the recent work done to it you got a good truck. Shouldn't be much going wrong with it in the near future. Nothing major anyway. There's always small stuff.

Price of 1 metal ziptie: $0.01

Satisfaction of repairing an intermittent brakelight fault: Priceless.

One of my earliest repairs. My version was cut off the melted plastic bumps and replace with self tapping screws with metal spacers under so no more melting

Great idea! I'm gonna save this for my next braklight repair!

So true... :thumbup:

I found the sure-fire fix for this problem is a good silver solder applied to BOTH the bulb holder tags and the steel contacts on the tail light. Seems to work better than the other "fixes" I've tried....

[QUOTE=workingonit;1207952]Don't overlook the subtractions made to your bank account while adding to the project book.

Don't forget the DIVISIONs when we spend hours on end with our heads under a hood while our spouse/significant other wonders why we spend so much money on these beauties. :)

+1 on that.

replaced the vicous clutch for an OEM item today... crikey that makes a difference! I instantly enjoyed driving the car again, the whole shifting and engine performance was off by the fan being engaged all the time. Cheers for the advice for going with Behr, defenitely the right choice!

while we were in there I spotted a drip... turned out the belt had chewed it's way through a lower hose (going to the oil cooler?). Weird since it's a genuine hose and the plastic clip was on it. Dit a quick fix by cutting it at the gap and putting a connecter in between, will order a new hose. hope that will be the end of the mysterious coolant smell I've been having since owning the car (I guess this is a false hope with a bmw :D )

New and exciting problem has arrived though!

My indicators work, but the inside arrows and the clicky sound do NOT. Anyone have an idea? Some relay not functioning? I thought it might have been the bike rack that was plugged in the hitch connector, but the problem went away once after disconnecting and restarting the car, only to return the next day (no bike rack plugged in)

Click is integrated into the dash. Pull codes you will have if there's a defect.

sounds expensive... I need to get a decent scanner, mine doesn't say much

Yes either need to go the tedious route of an old craptop and inpa or get a 2nd level scanner such as foxwell NT 5xx (10,20,30) bi directional scanner that can access bmw modules and also activate things.

They are very reasonably priced. One repair covers the cost

I can't remember who it was on here, but they found that the Foxwell NT-530 was missing a bunch of stuff that the NT-510 and NT-520 had or didn't do as much with the e53 as the others did.

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I mentioned it at some point. My 530 was unable to access the egs (trans module) when I was doing trans service. Buddy's 520 (had it on hand as we were doing both our X5's) accessed it without issue. Seems the 530 works great on newer chassis, but might have lost some compatibility with the e53. I still need to do more testing with it though.

For only an e53 (or older chassis) I'd recommend the 520 pro. They've gotten cheaper too since the 530's release.

comparing the Foxwells
 

Back at Xmas/NY 2020, when I was anticipating the arrival of my E53 (under repair/restoration by the previous owner, to trade to me) in the spring/summer of 2021, and also preparing to buy a bi-directional scan-tool for both the BMW and my GM cars, I did a lot of research. The best bang-for-the-buck seemed to be the Foxwell NT510 Elite.

I took notice on BMW forums that the NT510 was favorably mentioned, and was basically the same as the ECS Tuning's "Schwaben by Foxwell" scan tool, with the ability to get up to five brands' programming (I only needed two). I compared two other Foxwells, and opted for the NT510 Elite at a good price from Amazon (as my Xmas present to myself), with GM programming only (needed first). A month later, I bought the BMW programming. The NT510E has already helped me fix one GM car (in under 10 minutes), saving me money, so I figure it'll pay itself off on its' second use! Here's two links comparing the three Foxwells I had considered:

Comparing the 510 vs the 530:https://www.foxwellstore.com/service...0-scanner.html

Comparing the 520 vs the 530:https://foxwellscantool.wordpress.co...520-and-nt530/

I only heard the software had malware.

I also have the think diag Bluetooth dongle which has a far better interface and uses smartphone for the view screen but the software is so poorly made I posted a one star review. I still almost exclusively use the think for my car because it's always plugged in so it's a convenience thing.

For anybody with think: use manual selection to go read/clear a code. It takes 250 seconds for auto scan and 10 to manually select. Again terrible interface. Doesn't remember the auto scan even when you pick an unlabeled saved VIN it saves no time because it scans for every module every time.

Repaired rear left door wiring harness... Window didn't work on it.
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I went with a Foxwell NT644 and did the upgrade to the Pro....
I found a screaming deal on the 644 and then was able to update to the Pro for $120 more directly from Foxwell.

It has been VERY good to me... although I do have a dedicated laptop with all the craptastic software loaded as a backup.

I would never go with the BT dongles junk, they all suck and require a monthly service fee or annual, the Foxwell is a lifetime free update.
if you signup on their site they run sales from time to time

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Are you able to get biddirectional functions by upgrading to pro?

I didn't get 6xx because it wouldn't activate functions like engage AC compressor. It's that resolved with pro upgrade?

I think I may have answered my own question. The 680 looks like upgrade from 644 (discontinued) and looks pretty awesome. Double the price of nt510/520 but looks pretty nice at first glance.

The BT model I bought does everything the nt510 can do and more but it's $40/yr (first year included). The kludgy software will likely make it a one year experiment for me. The foxwell is very very very kludgy interface reminds me of Atari 2600 or DOS 3.0. I would love to have a tablet interface with 1990 or better visuals and human interface. So that seems to be impossible under $1000.

Android OBD2 apps on phones/tablet + Bluetooth dongles
 

I bought my first smartphone (an Android phone, a Samsung Rugby Pro) in 2013 (I really loved my flip-phone though) just so I could run the Torque Pro app, which only cost about $5. I also bought a $15 BAFX Bluetooth dongle so I could run it. I used/still use both to this day, though I lean more to scan tools now, for most things.

The Torque Pro has good info available for my GM cars, but I haven't found PIDs for my E53, if they exist at all, and am presently using a spare Samsung smartphone J-327A as a dedicated coolant gauge in front of the shifter on my X5 (via Torque Pro).

I'm using an OBDLink LX dongle in both the X5 and my 2500HD (both left plugged-in, for convenience, and my instant coolant gauge, using the LX's auto-off feature). I can also utilize the free OBDLink app that only works with their dongles; it's very similar to Torque Pro.

I looked into both Bluedriver and Carly, but figured that Bluedriver wasn't bidirectional, so my money was better spent on a Foxwell, and I'm not sure whether Carly for BMW is worth the money. I'll probably go to a laptop and BMW scanner 1.4 or something to do coding, if I live long enough.

Carly now is subscription. It had lots of teething pains in infancy that led me to get foxwell.

Foxwell is so pokey and interface from 1980s I really want something better

680 is the new 644
I only went with the Pro upgrade as it was cheep enough and I got a screaming deal on the non pro. And I work on enough of my friends junk that having the other brands was nice

I have not found anything that "doesnt work" I know the AC works as I needed to cycle the electric fan and that worked(well fan didnt but)

For $229 you cant go wrong with lifetime updates. 99% in here dont need the Pro though.

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT....
yes its not a slick interface, but I dont care.
It does almost everything I need it to do

And I will never spend big money on hardware only to have it turn to a brick because I dont pay a monthly fee and or the company goes out of business and locks everyone's software... NEVER AGAIN

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Foxwell does the job other than coding. I mostly agree with the why buy a future brick but at $40/year is not a bad cost of Buisness if they keep updating the software.

I'd like to see a comparison between 510 and 644 pro.

Foxwell NT520 VS NT510 VS NT644 VS NT624 VS NT414

Not huge if you only work on BMW..

How hard is it to install the software for other makes onto an NT510? Just curious, I've been eyeing other cars lately and I'm curious how easy the software download is.

How hard is it to install the software for other makes onto an NT510? Just curious, I've been eyeing other cars lately and I'm curious how easy the software download is.

How hard is it to install the software for other makes onto an NT510? Just curious, I've been eyeing other cars lately and I'm curious how easy the software download is.

just follow their instructions
 

It only took a few minutes to download the BMW programming (I bought my NT510 with GM programming because I needed that first).

I bought it on AMAZON, the seller was Foxwell thru "Obdzon". I registered it thru http://foxwelltech.us/ , as shown in the users guide.


Users Guide (with "Registration & updates"): https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81u5y+gQocL.pdf


Users Manual :https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/B1ewKaUuSyS.pdf


To register, I took out the SD card, put it in the card reader, and followed the steps given on the website.

To buy the BMW program, I simply signed in again and followed the steps outlined there. When I was ready to purchase, I removed the SD card and put it in the furnished reader, inserted it into my PC, and clicked away (of course after using PayPal, for secure payment). It loaded right away.

3/10 difficulty. You use a web browser to load into the micro SD card.


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Thanks guys, that doesn't sound so bad.

R/R the fuel filter on my 02 E53 and replaced the rubber portion of the vacuum hose that attaches to the filter. This had deteriorated to the point that the car was throwing intermittent codes related to a vacuum problem.

I was going to replace the entire line, since it is only about 24 inches long, but accessing the other end of this line requires dropping another large protective cover and looked to be a major PITA to do in my driveway. I did get this particular cover down a little and was able to get a pound or two of dirt and debris out of it, behind the wheel well.

My 4.6 transplant long block motor also arrived from Germany today.

not exactly what most of you guys would do, but...
 

I intentionally disabled my sunroof by removing Fuse 58 from the fusebox. I've read of so many pano roof/sunroof problems on this and two other X5 forums, I wasn't going to even try opening mine.

I was told it was in working order by the previous owner/restorer, but I don't want to chance fate (if it can break, it probably will). And, living in Texas, I'd prefer A/C to open air anyway. Never liked open windows, convertibles, T-tops, preferring to use A/C or heater as needed.

I can't tell you of how many times I've ridden in cars with leaking tops, and/or sunroofs, and I just say no to it here and now (before the wife just reaches over to try it out!). She also opens failing/loose car windows a dozen times after I tell her to wait until I fix it, inevitably breaking it a hundred miles from home, in inclement weather. Not chancing the sunroof here. I might even eventually code out the passenger window control, too.

two words: Child Locks :thumbup:

Coding session complete

I've been meaning to pull the fuse for the same reason. Mine still moves but not all the way. I am afraid if I move it again that I will have to fix it. Fuse 58 you say?

The e53 only has child-proofing on the rear doors. Though my wife is 1.5 decades younger than I, and often displays child-like tendencies, she probably would raise hell if I made her ride (confined) in the rear seats.

However, I did find that F24 controls the window module for the passenger door. I might pull that fuse!

Attachment 80760Attachment 80762

Yep. It is listed as such on the actual fusebox labeling, and on fusecheck.com https://fusecheck.com/bmw/bmw-x5-e53...6-fuse-diagram
Attachment 80761

DIY Wrapped the e39 facelift sport steering wheel. Not bad for the first time...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6e57e73314.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a5b38466ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...408343aad8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5743fe901c.jpg

Looks fantastic! :thumbup:

Aux fan day for me in the heat. Got her out in a little over 1/2 hour. :popcorn:

Must be nice when the bumper cover screws aren't welded to the spring nuts.

Purplecty the wheel looks great!!

How long did that take you?

It's time consuming but very therapeutic and was a daddy/daughter project. Also just finished the lower trim piece as well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...034a74ea29.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...73f0cf95da.jpg

It sure does. Nice work! Want to do this to my wheel and my E60 wheel. Wonder how much it affects the heating function?

Thanks! Im not sure as I don't have the luxury of a heated steering wheel. This one is actually for my e38 and I ordered one for my X5 but it's in damn near perfect condition. The one in my e38 was a bit rough around the edges.
E38 vs. E53https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b82cc9bd73.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...de79908d10.jpg

Done!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...473e3d5401.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d163128750.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...88263e4e53.jpg

What's up with the airbag light? Did you not disconnect the battery when you did your wheel?

My airbag module is shot and I have a few spares but haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

Looks great!

Nice work!

Thanks Fifty! All back together and fan spins so much faster. AC blows colder and coolant temps are staying not higher than 103C. Still a little high for me so ordered a new thermostat and water pump.

Everything started to change on our trip to the Black Hills, SD when the fan clutch locked up. Temperatures are running 5C to 7C high in a traffic or idle condition.

Still chasing the obvious by replacing the locked up fan clutch and slow spinning aux fan but still haven't found nirvana. Maybe next week.

Yeah, sounds like you need a new stat. I think the ideal temp is 95C. That'll give you 203F. 103C is 217F. That's definitely too high. Hope your new stat gets your temps down. Interesting though, it seems failure mode on these is usually stuck open rather than partially closed.

New pump "while you're in there"?

[mention]Overboost [/mention]

How does your oil temp compare? Also radiator outlet temp vs. inlet? It's strange for tstat to fail hot, but you may be onto something with the water pump. If it's impeller is worn and not pushing enough volume it will cause your symptoms but you will notice in the outlet temp being too close to the inlet temp (can be caused by any blockage including dirt in the radiator fins)

Also, How old is your radiator? I had a friend witha. 540i who had a newer behr radiator with similar symptoms you're having and replaced the whole cooling system. It ended up being a faulty radiator. He tried to shine a flashlight through it and it was not shining through and was restricting air flow. Replaced it with another behr radiator and the temps went back to normal...

Pressure washer can achieve the same results


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He warrantied it out from fcp as it was a few months old...

Wow crazy. I frequently point out new ≠ fixed but usually that applies to items with moving parts or electrical devices.


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What's odd is my idle is 700 and the temp would creep up to 103C within 1 min or so sitting at a light or stopped. If I gave it a little throttle to 1000 RPM, the temps would come back immediately to normal 95C. Makes me think the pump and thermostat is my next approach now.

When I had the aux fan out yesterday, I did have a look at the radiator fins and aside from a few bugs, it looked fine.

Took a pic of a door panel pin. Ordering a few to secure the right front door panel. A few extra for future use. Glued back the primary holding forward panel pin.

My previous attempt at fixing the switch in the gearshift mechatronics failed [emoji90][emoji90][emoji90][emoji2959][emoji2959]

I have now had the joy of part swapping it over the course of 4 hours in 48c heat. I did have shade and my outdoor swamp cooler [emoji3060][emoji3060]

We'll see if my used replacement part is good for now and for later...[emoji1696]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0875f90163.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...379f42b891.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...026d65fe0a.jpg

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man I thought 36C here was bad to work in haha

I've seen 60c here once.

Thought I saw the devil walking away saying "screw this" and buying ice cream.

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Should be the water pump hoping the impeller isn't shattered.

Any chance you have air in your coolant causing loss of efficiency?

(You would notice loss of heating also)

I checked the coolant level one morning on the road before starting it and it is at the proper level. Nothing changed other than the fan clutch in Minnesota. That's where the problem started.

New engine mounts. Didn't see much of wrong with the old one's and didn't solve vibration issue at idle while in d or r.


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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qi...XpMsBT3gA=w768
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AX...VwUkPPaOg=w768

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lG...p576T2vJA=w768
Left side was quite easy too. Lifted up the engine as much as possible and lowered subframe and then had to twist engine a bit transmission lift to get it out. :D

Your old mounts are compressed about 1/2". Looked like mine when I swapped them. Made a big difference in the smoothness of my idle. I did have to bump the speed up a bit though. It was idling at about 650 in drive. Bumped it up 50 rpm and it was good.

Yep, gotta try to change idle. But eventhough they where compressed, it didn't change much.

How did you bump up the idling speed?

Also ordered new lifters, valve cover gasket (and other needed stuff), valve stem seals, spark plugs, vanos seals with rattle kit.

Use the settings in the Foxwell NT-510 is how I did it, don't know or have ISTA so on that someone else will have the info.

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I lean towards a worn water pump impeller. I think I went through 5 thermostats over the course of 389,000 miles on my 02 and they always failed open.

Bought a Doorman replacement washer fluid cap for 6.42 USD (Amazon) and it only took 5 weeks to get here in BFEhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d6b7420521.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...318151f5d0.jpg

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Using my Schwaben scan tool. It's the ECS brand of the Foxwell 510. Best $150 you'll spend. usually pays for itself the first time you use it.

+1

I have NCS/Inpa/DIS and my friend has also ISTA, so should be no problem.


Cleaned it outside a bit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AF...OvHC8YJQ=w1024

Looks fantastic! :thumbup:

Puwahahaha…!!! [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

I have NCS/Inpa/DIS/ISTA, and been wanting to bump up the idle and never seen that option. I gotta be blind if it's there and I'm just missing to see it :wow:

Check if it has a vent hole… if not, drill one…
Otherwise with raising temperature under the hood, pressure will build up and fluid will leal from the nozzles… been there already🤦*♂️

[emoji106]

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+1 on that. Me too. Took me a bit to figure out what was going on.

First, this morning I told it I loved it (as the aux fan is still happily whirring away)...but THEN LATER....I had a few cross words for it as when I went to set my sunroof to vent mode...something broke and the damn thing rattles now when I close it and run over some rough road/bumps...and the vent mode doesn't OPEN properly (just a small amount). Now it's time for me to research how to fix the sunroof.

Pretty sure I bought mine with this issue and have neglected to fix it. I just leave it closed...

I have found a pretty good tutorial on how a E39 sunroof works and it addresses the issue I'm having...so, I'm hoping to get enough info to figure out how to fix mine. It doesn't seem that horrific.

***********

I need to fix mine .is this for the base model not pano?


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This is technically for an E39 standard (non-pano) sunroof. It seems that the parts are at least very very similar...so I'm using it as a primer to figure out how to tear mine down to fix it. Seems like it's a pivot-to-rail failure that I should be able to observe so I can purchase the correct parts.

My 2003 sunroof has the exact same symptoms you describe, and is something I hope to fix eventually. However it's low on the priority list since it doesn't leak. Let us know how it works out.

On the sun roof, how to you fix a sagging headliner? The wifey likes to use the pano roof, so the front portion is really coming down. The edges are giving way.

You might want to search this forum. There are several folks who have shared their solution to the sagging sunroof shade and also sagging headliner. :)

Replaced this PS hose loop few weeks ago and it's leaking again... Gotta replaced again and send it for warranty...


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wz...BRVBEdBDg=w512

3M Super 77 has been my go-to for years
 

Though I haven't had to fix any headliners in years on my vehicles, 15-20 years ago I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive on several cars and trucks (mine and others'). As far as I know, the headliners are still holding up.

One adhesive I used lasted even longer, Weld-On 1829 brush-on adhesive. I used it to install my headliner on the '66 Chevelle that I recently swapped for my '01 X5. The headliner looked the same as when it was done in '95 (26 years).

However, it was a black headliner, and made of a very durable perforated vinyl? or nylon fabric...I don't know if the Weld-On would harm or discolor the X5 headliner fabric, or melt any plastic part that may contact it.

I attached the $9 front & rear BMW roundels today
 

The old "factory" badges came off easily, but still were much more firmly attached than the Chinesium replacements I used. I figured that they were worth a shot, for 10% of the price of genuine BMW parts (at least while the wife is watching my BMW expenditures, following acquisition, registration, fan conversion, etc., in rapid succession.)

They both fit into the holes very well, but the rear one's diameter OD is slightly less than the original. I used the furnished rubber grommets to hold the front roundel on, but it still felt loose, so I used a Velcro patch to take up the slack. It feels firmer now.

On the rear, the grommets weren't used (the screwed-on metal surround was also glued on, so I didn't take it loose), so I used some old (not all that sticky) double-sided tape to attach it. Then I brushed on some superglue around the top perimeter, just to see if it would adhere. If it does, then I'll probably just glue it on.

If one or both fade or fly-off in the next few weeks, then I already have the BMW parts in my FCP Euro cart.

Ouch - that sucks!

I just ordered one for my car - from Latvia! Hoping it's a good one!! :rolleyes:

How much effort was it to replace the PS hoses? Mine are pretty wet and drippy. I have been dragging my feet because they don't seem to be leaking very much fluid, or dripping on the floor, they just are wet whenever I see them.

Haven't been stateside for about 8 years, but I would check your local farm store and I bet they'd be able to make you a new hose and new ends for pennies on the dollar. Although they will need the old hose to pattern from.

Removing the hoses isn't a big deal but I was doing new belt and pulleys at the same time, so take my experience for what its worth. I would say that if you have hands like Slappsy Maxy Bear it'll be more difficult...

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New windshield installed on Wednesday to replace the sand damaged one I had installed 5 months ago. Now I can see well again. LOL.

Ordered a new key from bmwminiparts today. That leaves me with two diamond keys and one buttonless key. I also have a diamond key that I need to program into my EWS as I bought the key online for emergency unlocks.

Had the exterior detailed yesterday and found an issue with one roof rail. Will probably take the rails off and have them painted and reinstall them. If the weather holds up, I will swap my headlights this weekend and install the new tail lights as well.

Next month it heads to the upholstery shop to have the two front seat bottoms reupholstered (I found new seat bottoms online from new old-stock). Next stop after that will be to the body shop to have it color sanded and touched up so it is back to near showroom again although it still looks very good for 18 years old.

Do you have sport or comfort seats? I need a leather driver seat bottom cover...

Same here, my front lowers are starting to show the age of 18 years. Where did you find "new old-stock".

Aliexpress find for 13USD...


Old
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O_...Pt3-nLJdQ=w512


New
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bn..._0mCWHBvQ=w768

Sorry but what am I missing here? :)

I have comfort seats in mine. If you have comfort seats (and I think drivers and passenger are the same cover), you can have my passenger one. The drivers has a small hole in it where an ass*(le friend burnt it. Check the part numbers but I think they are the same. My passenger one is damn near perfect.

Found them here: www.bmminiparts.com - Home Note that they charge VAT by default but they apply that to the shipping instead.

Nice folks.

The e70 wiper retrofit.

Ahhh...thanks. I honestly stared at those pics and didnt pick it up. Good grief.

Second key remote didn't work... After taking a part the key it was a simple fix. As the board was out, battery was replaced as well.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vt...hWMQmzWtg=w768

Both my keys needed solder reflowed. I replaced one battery mostly just because I ordered in case I needed.

I lost my main key on a road trip been using my backup key since and the remote no longer works.

I have a new diamond key ordered and a valet key as well so I can hide a key.

Once I have my new keys I will take apart my current key and reflow the solder joints and should have a backup remote key.

Today I installed the new Depo headlights with angel eyes (though I will wire the AE on tomorrow as I need to further review the wiring), I also installed new tail light assemblies (Euro Style) as mine were starting to oxidize and the right rear has the defect presenting itself (and I didn't feel like soldering it).

If anyone wants a free set of Xenon headlights and a set of tail lights for E53 prefacelift...message me and their yours for the shipping cost.

I wired my AE to the heater power for the pre cat O2 sensor. Used a local ground near the right headlamp. I ran a pair of wires over to the left headlights over the radiator

Let's see those depos!

Figured out why my disc changer wasn’t playing. The previous owner had a iPod adapter and it required the plug port for the changer. Now I need to find a new changer that works.

Found the Bluetooth code for the phone and it works!

Found the module for headrest TVs, but two owners previous removed them.


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I have angel eyes connected so they come on when the ignition key is on and a second trigger so the also come on when the interior lights come on when I unlock or open a door

Is that a programming option for the interior lights/AE? Mine are programmed as DRL's along with my fogs via the IBUS app. Didn't see an option for the interior lights on AE's on.

No, it is not by programming it is by direct connections and a relay. I don't have Depo headlights. I modified the OE lights. I was suggesting an option that OP might want to consider if Depo lights can be wired that way.

I see. Thanks. :thumbup:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I love it. Getting greeted with the AE.

I wanted a key on hot to run mine but couldn't find.

I discovered that the O2 heaters use always on hot and PWM on the ground so it puts the AE on any time the engine is on. No extra wiring or relay needed. I had recently replaced my downstream O2 so I actually used the wiring from the old ones including the sheath so it basically looks factory. (And exact match).

I "teed" into the hot from Bank one o2 upstream sensor. I stripped 1cm of wire from the positive side of the heater and soldered on the tee connection. I ended up having to re-do that when my 3rd party (don't do it) upstream O2 failed within a year.

Fun little quirk: the O2 heaters stay powered for a minute or so after shut down so the AE stay lit after I leave my car for a bit.

I'm always in my car when i start it so I'm not sure if they come on at key on or when the engine starts.

I have '01 so when I put in the depo lights it was quite an appearance update. The actual lenses/relfector aren't as good so the beam pattern is not perfect like it used to be. Of course some of the smooth beam pattern was from the diffusion going through the cloudy lenses!

Aftermarket AEs I have have option for two triggers. I have one connected to fuse box to a slot that is hot only when the key is on. The other is connected to fuse that is hot when doors are unlocked or opened. Both have inline fuses and relays.

Did you wire trigger #1 to the ignition in the E-box? Did you wire trigger #2 to the footwell lights?

Here they are.

That's how I wired my aftermarket set for my E46.

Those look outstanding!

And I think we found the problem boys. LOL.

This was a 2 or 3 year old Saleri. Replaced with a Genuine BMW. Should have known better...

Oh wow! Good catch! I use the Graf with metal Impeller as my go to water pump for the M62tu.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Symptom aligned with worn impeller. Your t-stat probably is fine did you swap it also? If so keep the pulled one as a spare.

[mention]Overboost [/mention] Good on you to notice the slight elevation in temps not waiting for the dial to swing to red although did you reprogram your temp indicator to actually work and did it show hot to alert you to check temps?

Or do you have a full time temp display?

"Well, there's your problem"

Wow! That screams replace me with a metal impeller pump!

I do have my temp gauge buffer reprogrammed to 85C-95C instead of the factory 75C-115C buffer. I would have never noticed it as the temps would only reach 103 sitting in traffic or a long traffic signal. +1 for hex code modification on the cluster temp gauge. :thumbup:

I replaced the pump, thermostat, expansion tank and a few hoses that seemed less than new. I used all Genuine BMW parts on everything knowing it is the way it came from the factory. I had originally replaced the water pump with the Saleri as preventative maintenance and chose to save some money. It could have cost me an engine.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...g-x5-gauge.jpghttps://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...g-gauge-x5.jpg

The genuine pump also plastic impeller. I'm thinking of getting that graf aluminum impeller I will have the engine apart next week to finally do OFHG and I'm thinking I'll order that alum impeller pump to install at the same time. Prob should get a non generic thermostat also. (broke my perfectly good OEM thermostat in half removing fan clutch during Alternator replace)

I'm happy with the Genuine BMW water pump, composite impeller and all. I mean the original ones in the X5 lasted 170,000 miles and the one in my E46 made it 150,000 miles. I doubt I will run out the mileage on these now. Car idling in the driveway for 20 minutes with no aux fan running and the water temp is sitting right at 96C. Happy happy. :thumbup:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Can't fault the logic. My car just turned 200 a month ago or so. I have to tear it down for the OFHG and prob also oil pan gasket but I won't do same time. Won't know for sure if pan is leaking until I stop the massive leak from above.

I ordered Hepu brand with the metal impeller but I'll be curious to see what my 200,000 mile pump looks like when I pull it out in a week or two.

Take a road trip down here to the Carolinas and we can tackle that OFHG and OPG at the same time. We will put it up on the Quick Jack and rip that thing apart and get 'er done!

I might do just that. Busy until after laborday.

All done. Here is my bounty of pulled parts today. Such an easy service, didn't even have to pull out the Quick Jack. But it is 95 degrees Fahrenheit with 47% humidity here in Charlotte today. It was hot couple of hours, even the tools sitting in the sun burned my hands.:wow:

Just did the ccv and pipes...:stickpoke

I've had the same issue with sun baked tools. Keep the working parts you removed for emergency.

The expansion tank that was on there was an emergency 3 years ago when it burst on a Sunday and I had to be in Daytona the next day. My local Advanced Auto had the Dorman in stock so I put it on to get me on the road expecting it to fail in a month, year, 2 years. Nope still a perfect expansion tank but not Genuine BMW so in the trash can with the rest of the parts. $65 for 3 years is more than a satisfactory part from Dorman.

The thermostat was only a few years old but I did have a code earlier this year about the DME not being able to control the thermostat. I think tightening up the contacts fixed that issue but in my rear view mirror along with the ET. The Dorman AT thermostat broke on removal so really nothing to save but a couple of $30 hoses. All of it in the garbage. :rofl:

Best form of compression is deletion.


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Words of wisdom :thumbup:

It was many years ago so I am not sure. I am out of town for the next few days. When I get back I will take a look but I don't think I used the E-box for the ignition trigger. I think I did use the footwell lights for the other trigger.

Composite impellers don't have any galvanic corrosion issues. My original lasted 262,000 miles before it finally started to leak. The impeller still looked good. Always stuck with the OEM coolant though.

Welcome to the dark side. :sw:

Installed front window interior sun protectors. The rear have the shade pulled and limo tint. With the windshield cover on, it's dark inside. :D

In general I have no problem with composites. What drew me to the aluminum impeller is 1) aluminum also no galvanic problem against aluminum but also the shape of the fins is supposed to be more efficient pushing more coolant. I will definitely post if that turns out to be a bad idea.

Just realizing that I still have my "placeholder" dorman reservoir and hoping that doesn't have to come out to change the OFHG because I didn't order a new one. (from experience those are usual one shot they like to self destruct on removal)

No need to pull anything coolant related for the OFHG. Air filter assembly, fan/shroud, belt, alternator and power steering pump can just hang. You may need to move the power steering reservoir around but no need to disconnect the lines. It's right there.

I'm hoping to do OFHG this weekend. Have a trip for about a week starting next wed


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CD Changer retrofit
 

This is completely ridiculous but I installed a CD changer in the X. It didn't have one, so I picked one up at the junkyard for a couple of bucks. 10 minutes later, I was enjoying pure uncompressed audio. I don't plan on actually using it with any regularity, tunes on the phone are the way to go, but there is something enjoyable about retrofitting features your car didn't come with.

Love the mindset

How is the beam pattern on yours? It’s terrible on my set. One of the items on my list is trying to find a reputable retrofitter that I can ship my lights to for some quality projectors.


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[QUOTE=themechanic;1208747]How is the beam pattern on yours? It’s terrible on my set. One of the items on my list is trying to find a reputable retrofitter that I can ship my lights to for some quality projectors.


Mine seem fine. No issues driving last night at all.

+1 on that. Need to move the reservoir. Otherwise, very straightforward.

Lightwerkz can do the retrofitting.

Here is one of their videos about replacing the projector in an e53 headlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psFeaYmfGGs

(They can also install LED angel eye rings at the same time)

Thanks Jeff! I will reach out to them.

Palmsprings, my lights illuminate the road fine at night but I know they can be better. The beam pattern arcs, overlaps unevenly, and is not a crisp level horizontal line. I aimed them as best I could and I forget about the lights driving down the road until I pull up to the garage and it annoys me. I’ll get some pics next time I’m out at night. Here is a pic of the lights with halos on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ba45c11bc1.jpg


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Changed the transmission fluid, filter, mechatronics seals, and pan gasket....the previous owner obviously had it serviced at some point and they didn't put ZF Lifeguard fluid in it, which bums me out....I'm going to grab another 7 quarts or so and do a few more flushes to dilute whatever fluid they had in there. The person that did the work also left several oil pan bolts loose and didn't replace the original pan gasket, which is why I had a slight leak. Isn't it fun cleaning up other people's messes?

Yeah, ZF Lifeguard is not cheap. Another $100 in fluid. I feel your pain.

I've seen many have great results with Valvoline Max Life LT71141 spec fluid on their 4.8iS 6speed gearboxes and it's at great price point. I used Valvoline Import (blue bottle) on my 5hp24 in my 4.6iS since the specs are closest to the ZF fluid...

I’m pretty committed to restoring everything using oem fluids and parts. The price isn’t a big deal to me, but getting a full fluid flush isn’t easy on these transmissions, so I’ll never get all of that other fluid out. That being said, the only real issue I had with the transmission before was the 1-2 shift. It was extremely slow (like, seconds) at wide open throttle. Everything else was fine. Smooth shifts, no clunking when putting it into reverse or drive, it shifted quickly going from park to reverse to drive, etc. Hopefully that means the fluid in there is somewhat decent. It’s just red, not gold like the lifeguard.

You can't lose with ZF fluid.

Oh... you can. It's thin. If the seals, solenoids, or bearings in the trans are worn, the ZF will show it.

But it's great fluid for a trans that has been regularly serviced every 60k miles since new.

I have 7 bottles of ZF LF6 on the shelf in case I ever find a cream puff Bimmer with a 6HP in it. But anything over 80k miles without a trans service is getting Pentosin, Liqui Moly, or Valvoline MLMV.

The fluid used in a transmission is part of the design. With the exception of engine oil I never use anything but OE fluids. I have changed the fluid every 50,000 miles and in spite of all the engine mods I have done the transmission is working fine after 122,000 miles.

:thumbup: Most important part of that bolded.

installed a sirius antenna on my rear spoiler deck, referencing the guidance on the how too section of the forum. I chose to put a hole in the middle of the deck however, tack the antenna down with a dot of caulk and cover it with an ebay sharkfin. I left a couple feet of slack in coiled in the space between the spoiler cover and the lower spoiler that it bolts to so the lid can be placed up on the roof to work under the cover (washer hose, etc.). Other than that, I'll have to run a new one, or cut and splice a new one in if the spoiler cover has to come fully off the car.

Running the cable was the challenge, as expected. A coat hanger taped to the plug end of the cable and a liberal squirt of WD4 helped the antenna cable slide through the left hand rubber tube/protector that runs from the hatch to the car. I poked a coat hangar wire through first, put a small loop in it around the antenna plug and further secured it with electrical tape. The biggest challenge was the fact that the wire had to be pushed into the roof cavity about 3" to the spot where the OEM wires and washer tube exit the cavity on top of the headliner, then do a 180 and come back to the pillar. After dropping the pillar cover and pulling the headliner down a few inches, you can squeeze a finger or two in between the liner and the lower roof structure to catch the wire as you poke around with it. Too many sharp edges.

I left the wire coiled up in the amp cubby hole as it started pouring, and my next task could be just as challenging...running it all the way up front and up to the radio cavity.

The impetus for finally getting to this project is that after a 5 month chip related wait Crutchfield has finally put my Kenwood (model DMX9707S) touchscreen receiver in the mail. I admit to becoming a satellite radio cripple thanks to my wife's grand cherokee.