Thank you. Saving this because at the moment I have no idea what it means. But will get it done after getting a laptop. I have software packages to try to install already. We'll see how it goes.

I have cables to try but is there one you recommend for the E53 that has the correct pins jumped and ready to go for the bus'?

Any K-bus /D-CAN cable should work as long as pins 7 and 8 are bridged together.

I purchased another window regulator from Pelican today -- went with URO since I was happy with the quality of the one I tried last time.


You know when you order something from Pelican they send you an email for so many dollars off your next order, but the coupon expires within a few weeks? Well, I tried an expired coupon on a whim, and it worked -- just thought I would pass that tip along for anyone else ordering from Pelican anytime soon.

I jumped on the bandwagon and bought 2 new diamond keys and with cutting and programming it was all in for $120 USD!![emoji3060]

I also went to pick up my new washer fluid tank & pump but they are apparently made from gold as they wanted $1,030 USD (not happening) so I am going to find a used one.[emoji2962]

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Wow on the keys. Local guy?

Did you find a crack on your washer tank? I bought a damaged dish washer for $9 once because they stacked them too tall and broke the tub. I used some marine epoxy to seal the crack and it lasted years

Yeah a local shop that does nothing but keys that have electronic crap in them and then roughly 13 USD each to cut them.

The crack was from trying to pull the pump out of tank and it committed suicide.

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Heat makes plastic brittle. Can you get shipping via AFP (forget the exact initial)?

APO is hit or miss lately but I will see about getting access to the diplo pouch (not holding my breath) but it's probably full of space available ham for Christmas already[emoji6]

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Side note....

Over here transmission solenoids are NOT available individually and must be purchased with the whole valve block and is over a grand. [emoji2962]

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

You can likely repair the tank with a soldering iron. Test if it's thermo plastic or thermoset. If the former, you can melt the crack back together.

Another trixk that works is cut strips of a thermoplastic (I used to use Pringle lids before they made them the useless clear ones that don't seal). Light It on fire and it will drip hot enough liquid plastic it will meld Into other themoplastics.

I've used that trick many times to patch water pumps on washing machines that self destruct when a dime gets in there. The fix is water right and good as new.

Thanks Andrew I'll give repairing it a try.

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You said about pump breaking? I think the pumps are interchangeable. Swap headlight pump for main or back window to get the main pump working.

It was the ring where the pump connects to the tank that went all Aloha Snack bar after I gently removed it like a kid on benadryl.

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Found out why I blew the hose off the new expansion tank....

The o-ring under this beveled washer was crap and as I found out that when I put it back on I smashed it and it allows pressure behind the bevel and overcame the spring clip upon shutdown. (Ask me how I know)

I just cut it off and put a screw clamp on until I get my replacement hose this week [emoji1696]but on the bright side my heavy duty expansion tank is rated for 7.5 bar[emoji28]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2791fbf1c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9934b5fd80.jpg

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That's very helpful info.

2200 last night the courier showed up and I got my new hose[emoji3060] it was Trucktec so total cost came to 39 USD.

I used some (baby constipation med) pure glycerin as lubricant for the o-rings.

Don't tell my wife...[emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...85f22a6152.jpg

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After the hose repairs I took her out and stretched her legs 208kph and no tickets (so far) but I got an implausible air intake error (only after high rpm runs) anyone have an idea why?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5eeab32ebf.jpg

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@EOD; when posting photos with tapatalk, resize them to medium; stupidly it means you must post one picture at a time.. I can only see about 1/3 of your photos on my laptop

Oops, sorry

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Same shit happened to me. T.a.t. doesn’t ask for sizes when you upload multiple photos it's a bug


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Not today, but yesterday picked up the X after a catalytic converter replacement. Result is no more CEL, and the car feels like it has more power. Not tons but it feels "freer" if that's a thing.

Cat can get restricte. It definitely can slow the rate of rpm increase


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Anyone interested in some BC coilovers.
Got a gently used set looking to move.
Decided to go another direction.



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What was the funding requirement if you don't mind telling?


2002 X5 3.0 380,600 miles (with same condition)
2014 428i 69,600 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

I am interested. What does slightly used mean?

Less than 10k. Not rusted up. PMed

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snik

yea i am interested in the coil overs [email protected] email me

I replaced the passenger front regulator in under an hour, start to finish. Getting quite good at it. I went with URO again since I was happy with the quality last time.

Replaced my OFHG. Used a new Viton gasket. ECS still has them. They're pricey, but I'll likely never have to replace it again. If you're considering getting one, I'd do it now. the price has jumped considerably. The one I took out was hard, stiff and flat. It had been leaking for quite some time. Not a lot, just seepage. Lots of oil and dust stuck to the block. No active drips.

Yep, bought 2 for my E53 and E46 from ECS Tuning this past winter at $29/ea. I took the same approach of one and done. :thumbup:

has anybody replaced the yaw sensor in their x5 underneath center console?

i am sending my ebay light control module to rebuilt to jacksonville florida as my orginal lcm in unfixable

i think i need new cats can i go after market? and where to find?

I found a decent looking set on Amazon took a while of searching I think I found via BMW part number determined with realoem. They are pricy still so I was looking into refurbish my cat pipe by taking out the assembly, build a frame from wood and steel nto hold in exact position and cut our and replace with generic but large enough cats.

For now I've punted replacement with some angle O2 extension an an occasional adaptation reset.

:thumbup:

My weekend: Pulled the supercharger and all hardware, pulled the PS valve cover, changed PS upper timing chain gasket, VCG, and AC pressure line that had rubbed through against the suction line, put everything back together and drove it to work today. . . Also, my hands and arms are cut to shit.

Last few days have been:
1. New blower motor, dash out FUN
2. Trim Wrapped in CF, since the center console had to come out, might as well do it as I had the wrap on hand.
3. Wrapped the wheel since it was on the list to wrap since day one of ownership 6yrs ago :P
https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...b3&oe=5F6954CD
https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...2d&oe=5F6B4982

and yes the motor still works, but no flow on the passanger side :P bent the fins/pins up on the FSR too :P
https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...60&oe=5F67F63D

I haven't done it myself but the guys on my race team work at Classic BMW in Dallas and told me they have done a half dozen HVAC fan replacements thorough the stereo and vent opening right in the center of the dash. No removal needed they say. :dunno:

I'd love to know how they do it. The book says to remove the dash. I keep my fingers crossed. With over 250,000 miles I figure I'm on borrowed time for my fan motor. I am NOT looking forward to having to pull the dash.

Sounds interesting. I would say impossible without breaking anything.

IT MIGHT BE POSSIBLE, now that I have done ONE, but I think you have to cut that mid bar out of the radio hole that you have to cut to put an aftermarket radio in. :yikes:

New headlights, rear cam finished, leather treated.

Right before I bought the car in 2016, the PO paid $1,450 for the dealer to replace the blower motor :D


So that's one job I hope to never get the pleasure of doing!

New rear badge.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...57f290b7f7.jpg

So would you want to donate that badge for a completely fried ride height controller?[emoji1787]

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The old one isn't too bad...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5ca2d99711.jpg

I bought a fan motor and was expecting to learn the through the vent:radio method but after it arrived for no good reason when I swapped FSU on mine and wife’s cars they both are working

I didn’t return the blower because I figure having it keeps me from needing it

The mid bar is not there for vehicles with factory NAV.

Sometimes I forget that badges actually have "blue" not silver/white but to be honest badges over here are everywhere (compared to ride height controllers) and with my adventures in suspension work I'm almost tempted to re-badge the White Witch as a Lancia....[emoji1787]

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What actually I did to my x5 today was greeted with trifecta (red). Scanned codes and had both an intermittent power loss and also SES. Pulled up live SES angle and was frozen at zero.

Cleared codes got a worse SES error "internal fault".

Two or three times of clear fault restart car it finally cleared. After about 200’ of driving the trifecta went away. I'm going to have to get the repair kit for my SES before winter and I'm screwed

My bonnet (hood) badge looks worse than that after about 3 months of sitting under NZ's ozone hole... :rolleyes:

And headlights take a hammering too - I gave mine the annual spring polish and protect today...

https://i.ibb.co/fkcrTcj/20200912-154232.jpg

And before anyone asks, yes, the hood struts are tired. They are ok in the garage but outside like this, when there is a tail wind pushing the hood down, the hood can come down without warning! :yikes:

140,572 miles

Small coolant leak of about 32 oz per day.

Replaced water pump
Tstat
Upper and lower radiator hoses

PCV - new intake mani gasket - lower intake boot was new so left it in
OFHG not leaking so left it in

Fuel filter

Still small coolant leak

Replacing expansion tank soon.

Brad

Transmission cooler o-rings was my culprit and they are routinely overlooked.

By at least 2 extra as the flanges are easy to screw up and even though I don't "know" if it will affect anything with a new set after seeing the old ones I wasn't playing with it again.

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bradb

it might be your transfer coolant pipe i have one i will sell you for half what i paid its brand new from uro collaspable piece easy fix

[email protected]

Thanks Tmat.

EOD I can't find my tranny cooler thats probably my problem.

Brad

New SACHS shock absorbers in all 4 corners (front left had completely failed) and 2 new front strut mounts (as the metal sleeve/rubber disc in the originals had busted out).
She rides tight like a new e53 from Factory. Perfect.

Oh and got firmware for my BlueBus updated so it's 100% working on a MID with BC button. Sensational.

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[emoji1787][emoji1787] Sorry forgot you have a manual transmission.

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New rear air shocks today. It was almost as easy as an oil change.


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Air springs you mean? They are very easy to do, but shock absorbers also easy

How is the rear badge attached? Is it similar to the front - just with a couple of rubber grommets?

It has two little tabs that go inside of holes I would assume for alignment purposes, but it mainly bonds using double sided tape.

And the easiest way to remove one is to park in a bad part of town...

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That's awesome wonder if that's why my car came with no badges. Came from Chicago

If yours came with rims then I doubt it happened in Chicago....[emoji1787]

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Funny you should mention. Mine came NOT with the original rims

68 Oldsmobile Cutlass rims [emoji1787]

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Replicas look like Z4 wheels

Ouch.

Well at least they weren't 14" hoopty rims...[emoji6]

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If yours came from Chicago then the front and rear bumpers would have to be scratched, too. I witnessed the way to park on the street in Chicago is to backup until you hit something and then pull forward until you hit something. Then park somewhere in the middle and you call it good.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I have a hitch rack for rear protection and after the first time some asshole used the back into the car parking with me I installed my tow hook in the front.

That is an accurate assessment of asshole chicgao parking.

So you're saying that the claymore "hitch cover" I want is excessive?[emoji848]

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I'm thinking along that line but one of the explosive ink used in a bank robbery situation would be great.

I guess so, but I'm not giving up on hood mounted M2....

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Andrewwynn, Installing the tow hook was a brilliant idea. It's too bad a BMW doesn't ship with 2.


EODguy, I think explosive tip arrows might be a good fit in the bumper next to the parking sensors.


On another note, I just installed rear brakes and new front tires. Rears are back ordered, ugh.

But my wife's x came with one :-)

Actually the side away from the curb only needed. Can move it if you park on left of one way.

It's most definitely effective. Not a scratch on my bumper since I did it.

My carrier rack is bent somebody hit it pretty hard hope they cracked a lens. Fucker.

I bought another set of OEM wheels on craigslist for a song. Finally gonna get some studless tires. I've been getting by with some A/T Duelers that came with the car, but they're just too sketchy in the snow. I'm leaning towards the Pirelli Scorpion Winter. I have Hakkas on my other car, but they are just so expensive.

I've got blizzaks now but those General Altimax Arctic snows can't be beat for the price. I've run them on a number of cars and had them studded on my Excursion.

not sure where you live but I had the Scorps on and last year switched to the NOKIAN HAKKAPELIITTA R3 and I would do it again. Got a good deal out of a dealer in Michigan(lansing area I think) Scorps are good but I think the R3 were $10 a tire more so why not.

I use exclusively Dunlop winter tires on my car. They are slightly less grip than studless but I can use them year 'round no need to swap in winter.

I have a skinny set 235s on some goofy rims I use if the weather goes nuts (15" in one storm for example).

I have granstrek WT m3 now but next batch will likely be wintersports sp.

(With the 235s I've driven though over a foot of unplowed snow and even across fields with 6" of wet sloppy snow. )

Where I'm at, Scorpions are $514 installed.



Hakka R3s are $860 installed.



The price really went up when the R3 was released. I got some R2s for my Mazda two years ago for $420 plus install.



Blizzaks are $570 on sale at Costco, which ain't terrible. That's my second choice.

For the two days a year I end up driving on glare ice, it’s not worth studless tires. I'm extremely happy with the near studless performance of the Dunlop.

Sounds like a screaming deal on the scorps, as the 235/60/R18 are $182 a tire at TRack right now vs $212 on the nokkians, I had paid $199 for them at the time and the scorps were $10 less
I wouldnt think twice about them for 514

Dont waste your time on bliz, they are great for a month or 2 and then they fall off quick even though they look good.

Andrew, its not so much the unplowed snow, its what the packed down snow turns into on the roads, it might as well be ice. no all season is good on it. you might not die, but once you run with good snows, you wont run without

Been putting some miles on the X5, it's been smelling of coolant a bit every now and then so decided to clean the engine bay and look for leaks... nada again.

then I noticed two connectors on the air intake tube were loose

http://ills.bmwfans.info/m32.png
http://ills.bmwfans.info/m32.png


the connector of hose nr 6 got damaged, I taped that up for now and will have it replced later. However, under that connector is another hose spigot. The hose was disintegrated so the tube leading up to it was disconnected from the intake. I had an appropriate sized hose to I fixed the connexion. However, I can't find that hose on any of the parts diagrams... anyone know where it goes?

I mainly ask this because the car is making too much fan noise when warm if you ask me. Whether this is the secondary air pump or something else I can't seem to find out. I figured if the valve was leaking the airpump would be hot but it's not.

Front diff gave it up a couple weeks ago. I'm so over this damn thing. It's at my buddy's shop as I don't have the time for it.
Gonna sell it once I get it back.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0b91456af6.jpg

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That sucks snik. Just sudden failure? Did it damage anything else? Axles?

Don't know if any axles were killed in the process. I haven't had any updates from my dude since getting a video of the front driveshaft spinning and the wheels not turning.

Drove out to Castroville and got back to SA, detoured to get a bite somewhere and in the parking lot bout 20mph. Boom. Lost fwd drive. Was binding up initially and would stop if I gave it gas. Then it eventually broke lose and I could drive. No lights. No errors. No leaks.

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Thanks for your comments on the Blizzaks. I've owned several sets of studless tires but never any Blizzaks, so I think I will avoid them. Also, the Scorpion Winter is technically a "performance SUV winter tire" according to tire rack, so perhaps it will make the X feel a bit less like a truck.



Andrew, the Grandtrek is indeed a winter tire. It's just listed as a "performance winter tire," like the Scorpion Winters I'm looking at, instead of a normal SUV winter tire. Tire Rack just puts them in a different category but they're still perfectly good winter tires. The reason you do fine with them in snow is because they are actual studless snow tires.

That being said though, I will opt to swap on my current Duelers in the summer since I do a lot more miles towing my trailer through the mountains in the summertime than I do in the winter. Though in my area, we get sporadic snow for half the year, and I know a lot of people who leave their studless tires on all year and do fine. They wear down a bit faster but they don't seem to give up much grip compared to your typical all-season tire in dry/warm weather.

Eventually I would like to get a set of summer tires once the Duelers wear out, but at the rate I drive this car, that will be about ten years from now.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

the only loss of grip I have is extremely hot days where the soft compound wears off enough to allow me to drift up offramps.

I didn't consider the granstrek "studless" because they don't have the water grabbing outer layer of rubber like blizzak (which effectively makes their real lifespan less than half).

Unless they have changed the design, only the outer third of the tread on blizzak b has the stupid amazing grip. Once you wear through that you have normal winter tires.

The sipes on the grandtrek are the full depth of the tread blocks and the tread wraps around the side to grab in deep snow so you get good ice grip until the end.

They also have "winter wear bars" which indicate when you are down to the point you can't expect them to handle snow and more importantly, water which I think is a fantastic feature all cars should have.

PS. Love pirelli company. If my car had originally come with pirelli I'd likely be as diehard about them as I am now about Dunlop.

Keeping winter tires year 'round has kept me out of at least four collisions. I'll never put "all season" (should be called 3 season) tires on my car. The added steering and stopping power on dirty, oily, wet leaf covered pavement is well worth the quicker wear and more frequent replacement.

I'm only going on my second set in five years. I'll probably have to replace right about 6 years and the first set were worn when I bought the car, so about 35-40,000 miles I'm getting which is just as good as I got with my performance tires on my Z28.

With that kind of longevity on winter tires, I see no point in using 3 season tires.

Last winter when the side roads were the exceptionally slippery polished ice/packed snow, I watched a front drive car with 3-season tires spinning his tires like free crazy to get away from the curb where I couldn't even tell the road wasn't bare asphalt.

I re-parked and videoed my left front wheel as I pulled into the polished ice center of the road: there was about 60-90° of wheel slip when the tire hit the wet ice, that was it.

I found a fantastic video comparing 3-season tires (and highly rated), compared with winter tires (and in don't think even studless). It is shameful they call them all season, they really should call them 3-season.

If I lived in FLA or TX I would try to find a harder compound tire but maybe a non studless winter tire.

The main point for me is the 340 days a year my tires don't see snow but do see oily roads from traffic, that is where winter tires have twice the traction of ANY summer tire and will regularly keep me out of trouble. The extra wear is just cheap insurance to have the extra grip every day.

I drove a friend's X5 once and tired to demonstrate how they can handle like a sports car, and he had duellers; turns out with those tires, can't even handle like a Camry. I drifted though every corner and had to go 7-10 mph slower on 270 ramps than I'm used to.

Here's the thing: people will say "but I don't drive performance style".

Not until you *need to*.

I rest my case.

I have to agree with you on the sipes. I had wished all non-winter tires had the sipes for water like winter tires. But I've found that the summer max performance tires do just fine without the sipes. So now all of my cars have true winter tires and then max summer performance tires. With the exception of my Excursion that has BFG T/A KO2s.


On the winter tires though, my 4.8 came with the blizzaks when I bought it. Otherwise I do normally go with the General Altimax Arctic so you don't pay a premium for having a winter tire with the best performance for only half the life.

Winter tires have better traction on oily roads than summer tires? Say what now?



In the past two hours the Scorpions have sold out completely -- looks like they were on closeout but they weren't marked as such. But both Discount Tire and Tire Rack both sold out of them.



I got a quote for Toyo Observe G3s from another shop for only $500 installed though. They are studdable but I would run them without studs. I used some Observe snow tires on our old Scion (fwd) and they were pretty decent, but seemed to have reduced grip in all conditions after about 20k miles.

What max performance summer tire do you run on your X? I don't know of any that make them in the 17" sizes.



I have had the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo (both the first and second version) on my family cars, and I absolutely love them. Incredibly sticky but also very quiet, and I can get 35k miles out of them. I hope to get a similar tire for the X in a couple more years, now that I have two sets of wheels.

With absolutely no doubt!

For the exact same reason they work on packed snow. The sipes that grip on ice get through the oily surface that large tread blocks of summer tires float right on top of.

Summer tires are terrifying to me in Chicago. The roads are covered in oily film all the time.

If I had to estimate I have at least twice the traction. I right now have 3-season tires on wife's car I'll do some g-force and distance braking tests to explain better what I'm talking about but basically it's nearly impossible for me to get abs to kick on in my car on dry pavement but with wife's car just a good job on the pedal will do it.

In tire tests, typically the winter tire has significantly less grip in hot, dry conditions than either summer or all-season tires. I have never been to Chicago, but I generally don't expect that it's that much different from other places.



For reference, on the entire spectrum of tires, the stickiest racing slick won't have twice the traction of the crappiest chinese all-season. I don't disagree with your statement, but I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you've probably have had an experience with a bad summer tire -- something chinese, something not made for performance (they certainly exist) or something worn out or abused. Some very good winter tires might be better in hot/dry conditions than some very bad, perhaps worn out or aged summer tires, but generally you will be hard pressed to find any situation where this would be true.



Again, I don't disagree that your tires provide decent grip, but I would be exceptionally surprised to see them out-pace a good summer tire in warm, dry conditions. Read through this article if you haven't seen it before. The snow tire takes significantly longer to stop and has lower lateral grip than either the summer or the all-season tire. (And the summer tire in this test was not even really a performance tire, either, just a family car tire with a summer compound.)



https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/...vs-summer.html



(Source: mechanical engineer who studied vehicle dynamics in Formula SAE in engineering school)

I'm running Michelin Pilot Sport 4S on my 4.8is (20 inch) and my wife's e70 (19 inch) we're running Bridgestone Dueler H/P Sport. Continental Extremecontact Sport is what I run on my e38 (18 inch). Only reason I mention the Conti is they make an equivalent 20 inch for my 4.8, and I do like the way they handle on my e38, but wanted to try the Michelins.



I'm not sure what 17 inch tire ratio they would offer though.

Man, you must have a yearly tire budget larger than some small african nations!

It is fun to have these different vehicle choices to drive... until it comes time to pay the piper. Then it does sting a bit. But what I have to tell myself is that having winter/summer tire combos allows me to get 8 years out of 2 sets of tires. Or thereabouts.

Yep, same here. Unfortunately I've found that sometimes I don't keep vehicles for that long, so I don't always get to take advantage of it. It's funny how life seems to change and make your vehicle needs very different sometimes. That may just be my stage in life though. Currently, I live so close to work that we only drive about 10k miles per year between both our cars, including summer road trips -- so that makes tires last very very long.



Both of my current vehicles (my X and a 2015 Mazda 6) I have gone with 17" winter tire wheels for cost savings. The Mazda came with 19s which look great, but frankly the 17" wheels are so much more comfortable, and surprisingly they are so much lighter that you can feel a difference in acceleration too.

FTFY

You missed the critical point that makes my argument;

I'm pointing out, that in a worst case summer scenario, ALL summer tires absolutely suck.

I could literally tow any similar weight car with all four wheels locked across an oily wet pavement.

Nobody does this test, but I have experienced it first hand with very high performance summer tires.

The very thing that makes summer tires excel is their pitfall: surface area!

When I say double the traction I am being literal, I may be off by a factor of two and it's only 50% better but I'll take it.

I am saying that where fantastic summer tires might achieve 0.25g braking on oily wet pavement I'll be able to achieve 0.5g. I'm not kidding and I have done some testing on slush where I was able to achieve 50% of dry road g force with my 235s.

Just comparing the 235s vs the 255s, same tires, my x with the 235s could drag the other across most winter surfaces. I'm saying the same can be said for summer tires and worst case summer roads; an urban road like downtown Chicago when it first rains after a 3 week spell of no rain makes the roads literally more slippery than snow.

This is one of the conditions where I will literally have twice the traction of a summer tire. The large contact patch of a summer tire just petro planes over the surface where my "studless" tires works their way through to asphalt.

The other condition where they excel is wet leaves which also are slippery as snot. (40-50,000 miles on a motorcycle you learn exactly what is slippery or not and just how slippery) I would rather ride a mc over snow than wet leaves.

"The testing" I've seen has never included either of these hazards and I'm well aware that a 1 season tire will beat my 3.9 season tire at least 40 or 50 days a year. My entire point is that when the shit gets dicey in real world drivng, I have far more control because my tires will grip better than 95% of the tires on the road in the conditions where it matters.

I just stumbled into it by accident. The auction where I bought my car got in a bit of a bidding war that consumed the entire budget so I was stuck with winter tires that it came with, I'd have never done on purpose.

However, I noticed pretty quickly that my car amazingly out performed my wife's nearly identical X5 in every way.

For a long time I thought it was because I had sport suspension, but when I got a new set of tires, I put my old ones with about 1/3 tread left on wife's car and it instantly had similar performance to mine!

Where I first noticed the difference was wet leaves; where I had to be cautious with the Z28 around corners I found that I could go quite a bit faster than the Z with the X if there were spotty areas of wet leaves. I could just ignore and drive normally (means no brake left turns at city speeds) with the X,. And that behavior would put me in the ditch if I tried that in the Z.

I know how hard I can brake with my tires and I can't brake anywhere nearly as hard with 3-season tires if there is even a hint of oil on the road. I'm aware of are least three times I've been able to stop in an emergency that would have resulted in a collision had the only difference been 3-season tires vs winter tires. This is my public service announcement; if you are more safety for you and family than absolutely maximum performance on clean dry hot pavement, than look into the unadvertised safety factor of year 'round winter tire use.

I understand that lots of people don't drive in urban areas, don't drive where the weather can literally swing 90° in 24 hours, and these concepts don't apply.

If you drive where there is a lot of traffic, where it doesn't rain every day to clear the oil, winter tires will give you more grip than 3-season tires at least 300 of the 365 days of the year.

When I drove a friend's X5 that had relatively new duelers on it, I was shocked that I couldn't go 45-50 up an on ramp without drifting. I could have easily gone 5-7 mph faster with my X.

When I had my Z, it came with eagle GS-C: asymmetrical and unidirectional. On clean dry pavement the grip was absolutely insane! The way I take left corners in the city (off throttle to the apex, no brakes), I could do the same with right turns in the Z, in fact on 4-lane roads I didn't have to drop the throttle: 35 mph right turn only required a sharp 90° turn of the steering wheel no other input necessary. (well maybe a quick jab of the left elbow and knee to stay somewhere close to the center of the seat). So; yes I'm quite aware of good summer tires, also aware of their limitations; about 8 wet leaves and that right turn described above would end up in at least a 180° spin.

Wife's car has summer tires on it, as soon as I get a chance I'll figure out a way to do some g-force testing to demonstrate with some objective values to back up what I'm saying. (will have to be soon before I put Winters back on).

andrewwynn, I don't have the experience with oil on the road, but a few decades ago when I couldn't afford another set of tires I was forced to drive my winter tires through the summer. I know exactly what you're talking about with the increased grip but I seem to recall the wear rate on my Hakkas was concerning enough that I only got 2 years out of them IIRC. That was on my 86 Volvo wagon. Not even a beast like the X5. BUT I was commuting 2 hours each day.

You have to balance as with anything. I drove about 8000-9000 miles a year and can get about 3 winter out of a set of tires If I time It right. It's a little more expensive (faster wear) but not much. The up front cost of duplicate set of rims and two sets of tires not to mention storing the opposite season. Easier to run one set of tires, replace the couple that wear out and extend the run. (fronts get worn out faster how I drive so I will usually find a half worn pair on eBay after about two years to put on the front to get a full 3-4 years. Yeah cheating a little but $220 for a pair of used $270 tires and be able to to run the backs down to nubs. (with any luck getting through winter with 5-6 32nd left and run out the rest of the tread though the year. New tires in fall is my preference

Replaced the rigged coolant overflow hose with a new hose and replaced the power steering filter/reservoir with a new one. Found out years ago that these reservoirs also acted as a filter with a fine mesh screen inside. Good to replace at 150k!

This was my fix for the interim. Worked better than the PO's plastic tee that broke and scared me with the thought of a bad valley pan!

So shortly after I got this thing. I did the trans and rear diff. But I didn't have enough diff fluid to do the front. So I put it off and it kinda got forgotten about.

Fast fwd some years later. Still haven't done the front diff and TC.
Well. They're getting done today because that front diff failed a few weeks ago and the only thing we can think of, is the fluid was original.
Heres the carnage. Looks like the axles made it out ok.

So for today's lesson. Change them diff fluids gang. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...25b529e897.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9df7942084.jpg

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Maybe you got lucky and just destroyed the shaft... fact that you were able to keep driving with no lights etc makes me optimistic. That said, I usually don’t get that lucky, took me forever to figure out my rear diff was my vibration problem and 1100$ to fix it. I too almost threw in the towel for having fixed and repaired EVERY other system on the car, I bit the bullet and popped in a diff. Ultimately I’m glad I did - but brother, I totally feel your pain. Good luck with that and I’ll cross my fingers for you that you get good news 🤞

Keep us posted on the outcome.

EDIT - disregard... not sure how but I totally missed the above post - doh... [emoji106]


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One of the first things I did after purchasing mine.:thumbup:

Good luck on the repair.

Repair is done. It was just the diff. Axles are fine, thanks God.
Probably gonna clean it up and put her up for sale really soon.
Ready for that 958 CTT, or that W166 AMG

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Put BC Racing coil overs on. Also fixed the metal "pop outs" on the frame that one of the swing arm eccentric washer work against to be adjustable. Some idiot in an alignment shop had run the washer down on top of one on each side and flattened them back into the frame making them useless. Pulled the swing arm and managed to push them back out and make them functional again.

Of course, I also discovered several brake lines have cracks in the rubber. Guess what item is next on to do list?

Spent some time this last weekend getting INPA, NCSexpert, and the other BMW tools running on a laptop. Still learning that software, but now that I have it running and connecting to the vehicle so I ordered a power supply. I want to be able to code the modules without fear of losing stable voltage >/= 13.5v.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-PowerMa...72.m2749.l2649

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0pYAA...tt/s-l1600.jpg

Nice, let us know how it works out, I usually just hook up my 6amp trickle charger as a safety measure. Hasn't failed me yet *knocks on wood*

small job... spare key had a dead abttery, got an ebay kit a long while back but kinda put it off about 50 times :)

Yesterdy the wife was complaining the main key didn't work... it did but pushed me to spend some time on youtube and get the old soldering iron out

https://i.imgur.com/60WGKOV.jpg

small job... spare key had a dead abttery, got an ebay kit a long while back but kinda put it off about 50 times :)

Yesterdy the wife was complaining the main key didn't work... it did but pushed me to spend some time on youtube and get the old soldering iron out

https://i.imgur.com/60WGKOV.jpg

Good Job guntherrex :thumbup:

If you could post the link for the DIY battery replacement video that would be helpful for when I need to attack this problem, someday down the road.

Thanks,

Mike

there are quit a few, for the ebay kit I bought this was the one that worked for me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWrqrTvTMd0&t=125s

I do still need to get the key cut before I glue the key together. But the buttons work!

I also replaced a few missing plastic rivets after I got an assortment box of plastic thingiemabobs in the mail :)

Why not use the back of the old key and front of the new vs get the new key cut?


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Picked up our 4.8is last week and first thing I did was swap the BlueBus unit from our 4.4.

Love the functionality on the MKIV unit. After talking to Ted, figured out I needed to purchase a cable to hook up the DSP amplifier to the BlueBus. Have one on the way.

Second, I picked up an IR headset for the Audiovox DVD system previously installed since both headsets weren't included with the vehicle. Worked like a charm and love the system although I usually am against aftermarket electronics and installs.

This one seems to be pretty solid and has gotten decent reviews. Will definitely update.

I have a 10A charger. But I have no idea the duty cycle or efficiency on that thing. From what I've read with ignition on (pos 2) E39/E53 chassis can pull ~20A without any accessories on and depending on what's going on with programming can pull more. I just wanted to be on the safe side. :dunno:

I got some Blizzaks for the style 57s I bought last week. $564 mounted. Now I will not be half-assing it with A/T tires all winter like the last two years.



Also I noticed my A/T Duelers will be 7 years old next year (not sure why, but the manufacturing date was only shown on the inside of the tire, not the outside).



I'm not sure if I want to tow on them next year at that age. They probably have around 30k miles and have tons of tread left, and don't show any real signs of age, but at that age they might be a risk while towing. What do you guys think?

I’ve driven very rough on 9-10 year tires, but what I would do is sell your current set for like $40-50@ and use the proceeds toward a new set.

It's true, that might be a good idea, but I think if I can push a $500 purchase out another year it might be worth it.



I went back through the previous owner's records, and the tires are 3/2014 mftr date but were installed in 9/2014, so that is only 6 years of use, and they have 27,000 miles on them. For 500 treadwear tires they probably are only half used, and the tread indicates the same.



I think I'll run them next summer and then think about replacing them in spring of 2022. I'd love to get a better tire, I really hate all-terrain tires in general. They have terrible ride quality, they're noisy, and they don't really have great grip. They're only a little bit better in snow than an all-season. The Blizzaks were an instantly-noticeable improvement in both ride and noise.

Had to breakdown and replace the catalytic convertors. The rear suffered a partial collapse on the highway while towing, leaving me struggling with every incline on the way home from vacation. Front one wasn't in good shape either. Running at 45-50 mph in third gear on Interstate 30 is not fun. :( Found some affordable replacements at carparts.com and my new indie did a great job of installing them, including cleaning the carbon out of the secondary air injection tubes.


Runs like there's a new engine under the hood now, and the transmission upshifts like it's supposed to again as well. No more SES light either. :D


2002 X5 3.0 382,600 miles
2014 428i 70,800 miles (CEO driving it again :rolleyes:)


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - dash cover rebuild is 8 weeks :wow:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Aahhh..!! I hope it went well.

The results seem fantastic!

That's terrible -- be on the watch for engine problems now though. When catalysts break, the engine can suck them back in when there is reversion. Usually this only happens on pre-cats which are right next to the manifold, but any metallic dust in the exhaust is always a risk. Especially if you drove on it.



I test drove an Xterra once which had this problem, and felt like it had about 15 horsepower. Check engine light was on and the car was completely gutless, and the owner said it had been like that since he bought it. He was trying to sell it and completely believed I was trying to swindle him, even though I flat out told him I wasn't going to make him an offer because the engine was probably toast.

Just replaced my vacuum pump check valve. No more clicking!

Last night as I was rolling up the rear driver's window...the regulator crapped out

You need to cut open the original key to get the innards out. The kit came with a fresh new housing so had the key cut today and now I have a fresh and fully operational spare key again, happy days!

How did you "initialize" your key? Or does it not have remote opening functionality?

Plugs!

Only 141k if they are the originals installed in Spartanburg.

Adjusted the coilovers I put on last weekend. Total drop 2".

Those were definitely ready to be replaced.

I had to cut both mine open to reflow solder joints to make them function. I used a hot razor knife to open so I was able to make a very clean cut I could reassemble. More power to you if you can find a local place that will side cut the key.

Ordered another part to put on a shelf until the kids are grown... :rolleyes:

Donor DSP amplifier so that I could harvest the connectors to build a speaker wire harness adapter. Don't want to cut into the factory harness when I finally get around to working on my stereo setup again. Boy will be 4 next year... so I should get around to installing all this in 2034. :D Good thing Red makes such pretty exhaust sounds.

Attachment 78948

More likely they were fitted in Steyr, Austria, where the engine was made. ;)

I used the original electronics from the old key, so no other actions were needed for the swap fortunately. Now I just have to remind myself to swap keys every now and then to keep the batteries topped up :)

anybody know anything about their egs module being rebuilt or just buy new one mine seems to be going out ?

my 03 x5 4.4 went into fail safe mode when i stopped and would shift into first or go. turnoff car remoded key and restarted it and worked fine

anybody shed some light on this

I thought I had to get a new egs. Turned out to be a dirty connector so look there first.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e188340a25.jpg

My first check would be battery voltage. I would check for a drop in voltage, these cars trans fail safe modes are very sensitive to the steady battery voltage. Also, look at the connector Andrew posted and make sure it is clean with no corrosion.

I check the connector first because they are notorious and it takes a whopping 5-10 minutes. Then definitely check alternator output. The first time I got a trans fail safe was from a loose alternator nut. Actually not loose: MISSING! ( apparently finger tight won’t cut it)

I confirmed my left front wheel bearing is the one needing replacement. Did so by putting on a 235 tire. UFO sound completely gone.

Now I just need to actually change it. On both mine and wife's car. Left front what are the odds.

This is the first time I've had to to my left front. I did my right front twice in 4 years. I've changed all four of wife's and this will be 2nd time for her front left I think.

Installed a ZHP knob.

https://i.postimg.cc/JzbcvZD7/IMG-1542.png

ZHP is the best. Nicely weighted and solid shift feel.

Also love that cable organizer. Where did you get it?

Best shift knob ever. Illuminated? Nice either way.

I had a less exciting experience with Red. Discovered my left side rear door handle is broken. Time to go fishing in the door to open it. :(

Are those corrosion spots?

That's a form of corrosion: RUST. It all cleaned off completely. That's the befoee pic I don't know if I took an free pic I was so anxious to plug back in and confirm was the only problem.

Replaced my brake hoses with braided stainless from ECS. Rubber on the old ones was cracking. Then went over my plastic with Forever Black which I did a couple years ago. It's not forever, but it holds up much better than any other plastic restorer I've tried. After two years it was starting to fade a little, but still looked better than what it looked like before the previous restoration. I highly recommend the product. I have no financial interest.

I remember when I went to stainless, noticed the difference in the pedal immediately [emoji106]

And I’m a sucker for Forever Black too, worked wonders on my trim and yes... it’s not definitely not forever LOL...


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Read some of the reviews posted on Amazon. Great product.

How did you apply them? Did u use a high density foam roller?

Did you properly clean out all the residual old protectants and all the surface dirt first?

I used the disposable foam brush that comes with the kit. I went over all of the plastic with wax and grease remover prior to putting on the black.

Nice! I'm gonna try it out on my 4.6is!

Thanks!!

Oil service on the E53 and E46 along with a set of FCAB on the neighbors E46 Covertible. I switched over to LiquiMoly 5W-40 because of my aging and high mileage engines and the BMW LL-01 specification. FCP Euro offers up a complete kit with 7 qts of Liquimoly, Mann oil filter kit with drain plug copper washer and the large oil filter housing cap o-ring and the 2 small o-rings for the lower cap to lower housing for about $60.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427512300kt-lm

My kit just arrived Friday. 5w-40 as well. But it's 9 quarts for Red. :thumbup:

Oh, also picked up a magnetic drain plug from ECS.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

My last FCP order I bought the hook on oil funnel! It is awesome and three is space under the hood to store in just behind the airbox over the left fender

The funnel replaces the oil fill cap and has a gasket seal. It holds about 2L of oil so you can pour as fast as you want.

I did about the same as Fifty, except that I used a 2" foam roller from Home Depot, I found it easier to "roll" on than brush the long runs, though I did use the brush to get into most of the seams and tight areas.

I may do the same next change as I found out the dealers have changed from Castrol to Shell as their designated oil supplier. Of course at 383,000 miles, my engine probably just wants something slippery that doesn't leak out so fast. :bustingup


2002 X5 3.0 383,200 miles
2014 428i 71,700 miles (it's too easy to add miles at speed in this thing)


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - gets its new dash pad in 6 weeks

I made the same switch myself awhile ago in an attempt to reduce my oil consumption. Seemed to work a little.

Dang, that's crazy-cheap. :yikes:

5l (~5qts) of 5W-40 here is around $100 retail. Everything you got for $60 is about $250 here. :(

Because of the high retail pricing, I watch for promo deals at auto parts suppliers and get name-brand synth oil (Castrol Edge 5W-40) when it goes on sale, so I can usually get two 5l packs for about $120. BMW OEM oil filter from the local dealer is $50, so I can get away with good supplies for an oil service for around $170 - not too bad really.

Finally some work on the E53. And it's been a learning experience... trying to completely code out the EHCII system. All the modules are happy with the change except the DSC (DXC8). Oh well.

Anyway, replaced the battery with a fresh unit and figured I'd post some shots of my coding setup. The new power supply is working out great. Will hold whatever I set it to with a .2v drop between the power supply itself to the terminals on the car. Pictures below show .4v but that was because I lowered the voltage at the supply to 14v later. The car has been powered on all day in ignition 2 so it's been great not worrying about the battery dying or a module freaking out due to dipped voltage.

Attachment 79043

Attachment 79044

Attachment 79045

Attachment 79046

Gonna bring mine to get codes out once I get the diff sorted.

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Awesome setup and I am so envious of your garage!![emoji106][emoji106]

I am a little disappointed that you actually got Reds floormat dirty[emoji2960] but I am sooo looking forward to you trying to hide another aero kit in the garage [emoji1787]

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If I ever get this sorted, you are welcome to. :thumbup:

Thanks, when we bought the house the garage was an enclosed room. I fixed that a few years into ownership. Nice thing about that was that they added HVAC ducting to the garage. So it's climate controlled. :D I still have plans for it, but it's a slow process given other projects and time constraints.

The dirty floormat (and exterior) is Red's punishment for fighting me so stubbornly with the computer programming. And I have plenty of tarps large enough to hide another aero truck. :rofl:

Finished our last race of 2020 for IMSA LMP3 series in Road Atlanta at Petit Le Mans. Not the best event for us but looking forward to a new 4 car effort in 2021. :thumbup:

We stayed at Lake Lanier Islands so Mrs. OB had something to do while I was at the track (no access to the paddock by non essential personnel). Fantastic resort sitting right on the lake.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b0bf89b6f5.jpg

Which Mrs’s OB are we talking about? :bustingup

OB,
I just wanted to ask....

What is that blue flat surface behind the green fuzzy stuff called?[emoji848][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d59f4e17fd.jpg

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Ha! The Black Beauty definitely has paddock access since it IS essential. (at least to me)

The other Mrs. OB took spa days, running trails, restaurants during the day and firepits, beer and alcohol in the evening with me. :thumbup:

Now that I've had new catalytic convertors for 1000 miles, I've found my oil consumption dropped 50% :wow: and a lot fewer drips on the driveway. Must have been building up a lot of crankcase pressure and literally blowing oil out the main seals.


2002 X5 3.0 383,700 miles
2014 428i 71,700 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird under restoration

Wow! [emoji2960]

Well done OB. Glad the Mrs is able to make those trips with you and have the chance to kick back. Also glad the Black Beauty gets a chance to stretch its legs ;) I'm thinking about taking my CEO to the BMW high speed driving class next year so she can flip the afterburner on her 4 series and feel more comfortable doing it. After all, jets were made to fly. :D



2002 X5 3.0 383,700 miles
2014 428i 71,700 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 mies


1970 Firebird Under restoration

That would be called an oasis in your side of the world. :rofl:

Lake Lanier has over 800 miles of shoreline with all the coves and fingers. Really had a nice stay but sucked that I only got the chance to see it in the dark once the event started. Leaving at 5 in the morning to head for the circuit and was getting back around 9 or 10 at night.

Seems to me, “ALL IS WELL”.

Believe me, it's like someone added 50 horsepower back in the engine again.

Phew...! Those are some long hours!

Indeed brother, "happy wife, happy life.

We are off to Pigeon Forge today for a few days for me to pause and have some relaxation before my 2021 season starts when the new Duqueine D08 cars arrive from France at the end of this month.

Yeah, mine is in the pit as we converse. Lambda was off, O2’s were flatlining. Initial road test revealed a severe loss of power. But again, we’re still working to find this hiccup at the end of the rpm range.

Another great place to kick back OB. Look up the "Bear Lovin Cabin" if you don't have a place to stay yet. The Mrs will love it, and Black Beauty's all wheel drive will come in handy on the slick mountain roads.

Where I'm at 800 miles of shoreline is called the ocean and I don't think there's a name in Arabic for lake [emoji28]

Glad you are out and about with your best half (and the X5) too!

Let me know if you are in Abu Dhabi and I can see if they'll issue me an exit Visa for a few days. [emoji106]

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Good feedback about the cat v oil consumption.

The tech had also found the secondary air injection ports were packed with carbon which wasn't helping the air pump durability either. Probably consuming more oil through the CCV than normal from the excess crankcase pressure too.


Makes me wonder just how long the cat had been deteriorating.


2002 X5 3.0 383,700 miles
2014 428i 71,700 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

I rewarded Red's good behavior with a minor detail today. Wash & wax, engine bay wipe down, and interior wipe down/vacuum.

Attachment 79064

Attachment 79065

Attachment 79066

Added these, courtesy of SpookX5, all the way from the Netherlands. Gotta rep the Outpost. Thanks for having these made Jordi, they were worth the wait. :thumbup:

Attachment 79067

Attachment 79068

After completing all of that I decided to have some more fun with the coding setup. I re-coded the LCM to play nice with all the LEDs on the truck as the cold and hot monitoring codings had been reset when the ZCS was changed. This took care of some errors being reported in that module.

Then I decided to play with INPA and see if I could diagnose the ALC system that hasn't worked in years. Only the right side headlight would function as adaptive lighting. The left was fixed and actually had to be jumped just to activate the low beam (I have a thread on that somewhere). This is necessary because the LWR (main control module that runs ALC) disables the headlight when it detects a fault. I assume to avoid blinding oncoming traffic? I found a setting in the module that can be turned off to defeat this fail safe but I left it on.

So I ran through some of the activations, live data, etc INPA offers and found all the motors were good in both headlights. I could not see any real differences in what the headlights were reporting one side vs. the other excepting what the ride height sensors were reporting. I did find a counter (offset counter I think?) and it had a reset option. So I went ahead and reset it. I now have 100% functioning ALC again. I even managed to get the wife excited with that one. :D Because the system hadn't worked in so long she just figured it never would again. Never count an idiot with a laptop out! :nanana: Thinking about it though, I'm wondering if the offset with the height sensors were playing havoc with the EHCII system as well? I seem to remember reading a couple threads here where counters needed to be reset after servicing certain components. That's just a guess, but it makes sense to my tired brain.

So all in all, a pretty productive day in the garage. Now I'm beat.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I knew Red would play nice!

Red by the way, is also STUNNING! [emoji106][emoji106]

The X5 is looking very nice crystalworks! The red Xoutpost sticker was the only right choice :cool:

Looks outstanding as usual! For a guy with a new BMW diagnostic computer, you seem to have caught on pretty quickly. Did it come with ISTA as well?

Update on the ALC lighting fix now that I have had some sleep. The system is good to go now which is great, but I remember now what happened. I had some water intrusion into the LH headlight (after I modded the lights back in 2016) and it fried the ALC module on the bottom of the headlight. I replaced that module with a good used one (multiple actually) but the system never worked again. I think it had to be reset on the software side before it would all play nice together. So the actual fix was the used functional ALC module combined with resetting the system. Just wanted to clarify that. :thumbup:

Thanks guys. She's become a quasi garage queen and it is kind of nice to see her clean almost 100% of the time.

Thanks. It has a learning curve that's for sure. I spent about 10 hours reading up on the BMW software suite over 2 weeks before diving in to familiarize myself with it. I wanted there to be as close to zero chance of borking a module as possible. I downloaded all the software stuff and installed it onto a Win 10 laptop. That wasn't too bad, but had to track down all the missing Microsoft .dll's and such that cause the software to not work initially.

I have ISTA + as well but have not tried to install it yet. I am anticipating it fighting me though when I finally get around to it.

Hmmm, my ALC is also bad I'm I'm pretty sure for the same reason. I've had to replace the ignitor module several times.

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We can take a look at it while your truck is here getting the EHCII deleted. I have 2 spare ALC modules for the headlights if yours is borked. Do either one of your lights level? Or both are stationary?

If both you may want to order an LWR module to have on hand just in case. I saw one on Ebay for ~$20. Make sure you get the right one, there is a white one and a black one. Both apply to E53's. If your truck needs a white one I have a spare here for you along with the ALC modules.

Pretty sure they're both stationary.
LWR module?

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This thing. It lives above the EHCII computer and GM behind the glove box.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-t4AA...-S/s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-325i-33...0ed3%7Ciid%3A1

Mine has that black version, but there is also a white version. If your truck takes the white one, I have one here.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/JWoAA...Q5/s-l1600.jpg

Ok. I'll buy the black one just in case.
Why would that go bad tho?

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No idea. Honestly yours is probably good and the system needs resetting. But for $20 better to have it on hand while you're here just in case. You're truck is optioned for alc right?

Yes.

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Are you mixing two different systems?

Adaptive lights (xenons with lateral movement) have that AHL module. Normal xenons with auto leveling have separate LWR module only on pre 9/2002 versions. Post 9/2002 version have LCM IV which has the functionality of LWR without that separate module. Halogens with manual aim are always controlled by LCM.

I don't think so. Mine has xenons (522) and ALC (524). It is equipped with that LWR module. I also have LCM IV.

But I'm new to module coding so maybe I've gotten something mixed up? I have physically pulled the ahl (61356934122), headlight SMC modules (63126939069), and lcm (61356960253) from the truck though to verify when I was replacing parts. Everything works great now years later after the reset I did yesterday.

Mine also has adaptive xenons. Sounds a bit strange as there should be no use for LWR module on vehicles with adaptive lights or post 9/2002 models with LCM IV.

Edit: Isn't that 61356934122 AHL module, not LWR module?

Could it be different for the US market? Don't see why that would be but just thinking out loud here.

Already edited this to my previous post.

Isn't that 61356934122 AHL module, not LWR module?

Yes, edited my post to reflect ahl, not lwr. I think I am following you now. LCI trucks use the LCM IV to manage LWR functions (in lieu of separate module) while ADDING AHL functionality with that particular module, which is installed in the same location as the lwr on pre LCI trucks.

Very confusing.

*Adaptive headlights were not available on pre-facelift. They came available after 9/2003 and always have AHL module which handles all guiding functions of the headlights.

*Normal xenon (on facelift always bi-xenon): -> 9/2002 leveling by separate LWR module, 9/2002-> leveling implemented in LCM IV.

*Halogen light: Manual leveling always by LCM directly.

Got it. Again, big thanks for supplying your knowledge with the coding and modules. :beerchug: As mentioned, there's a bit of a learning curve with this stuff and I'm trying to muddle my way through it as quickly as I can.

No worries. I was just trying to make clear how these systems work on different setups and regarding manufacturing age. So we are all on the same page if there is some problem on the headlight leveling.

Looks like a great spot for the Mrs to relax!

Sounds very nice!

No Sebring next month....?

Brad

Next month in Sebring is the rescheduled 12 Hour from March. LMP3 did not run the 12 Hour this year but beginning in 2021 they are a Weathertech class for all the endurance races. :thumbup:

Wife was being cute and handed this to me yesterday. :D

Attachment 79095

Love it. Goes perfectly with her last garage gift to me. Need to grab a pic of that one too.