So how will you access the car's BC functions (like setting the clock etc.) once you fit this? Just curious... ;)

Good point, and I have absolutely no idea. But realistically I haven’t seen the time, or the radio station, or anything legible on the OEM receiver head for a decade or more. I’m assuming the new receiver has a clock function too.

Nine missing left front door panel rivets were replaced. I didn't realize it had so many missing. Ordered two packs of 12. One is almost gone! Now, on to the fuse for rear door locks and hatch. I was about go begin but a thunder storm cell moved over my house. F20 and F24 are good. So it's a hunt now.

Sounds like you have the factory Nav? Unless you actually need the cash, don't throw it away, or maybe buy a used MID unit you can plug in, should you need it one day. There are a couple of functions that require a working Nav system or MID - like unlocking the anti-theft code lockout, should it become enabled by a flat battery situation etc. (which has been known to occur). :rolleyes:

No nav nor DSP, which I think makes aftermarket upgrades to the stereo less complicated.

Correct - much easier. :thumbup:

So yeah, you might want to keep the MID unit around - just in case (even though it sounds like it has a lot of dead pixels...). :rolleyes:

You should be able to install the Kenwood without hacking up the factory loom. There are plenty of adapters for this sort of mod.

Installed Heat Shield window screens. With 5% rear tint, and shades out, the entire inside is dark. Nice on a hot Texas day when no shade is available.

Finally mounted my DINAN badge on the decklid.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ff9588d340.jpg

Looks great Purplecty! :thumbup:

Agreed!

Something oddly familiar about your car too... can't quite place it. :D

Same color different engine.[emoji16]

Looking great!!

Just don't stop near CW's house or he'll put an aero kit on it....[emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Last weekend installed
-new wheels (actually more like this month)
-front brakes (upgrade!)
-stop tech stainless lines
-sway bar end links (because rein turns out to be garbage)
-axle reboot (greasy nightmare)
-full flush with liqimoly dot 5.1 fluid

Next I would like to install
-led bulbs for tails and reverse
-rear brake upgrade
-refresh the plate frames

https://i.ibb.co/1nrDPF5/2303-D02-E-...556-FB9022.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/R4z5fm0/785-D36-B6-...2-AC15-F87.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/F54Yf6N/6-BD0-E13-A...314-C96-EE.jpg

Looking good! Are those E70 X5m brakes?

shiny! Looks like some impressive brakes too

What’s the break kit you put on?


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

What’s the name of the break kit you put on?


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

Wow! Nice upgrade.

I only replaced a missing "Auto" button. It went flying a week ago. It's probably behind the ash tray. I didn't find it while vacuuming the front carpet. :dunno:

Bought new oil+filter and stp engine flush. Gotta replace it on friday. And hopefully the new PS pump arrives on friday too.

Bought a new interlock cable to hopefully fix the Witch's problem.

Stopped at the mall and wife said "Look, it's just like daddy's car.." and then made sure I got these pictures. [emoji849]

I mean it's funny, but her patience is seems to be failing [emoji848][emoji15][emoji28]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4c412951df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b015d8494.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

:bustingup

The fact that the white witch is still in your possession... means her patience is that of a saint. After the great zamboni incident I thought it would have been involved in a mysterious fire. :D

Hell I was surprised I wasn't on fire myself over that one...[emoji879]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Is that a vise-grip? :bustingup

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Interlock cable is installed and ao far transmission failsafe is gone [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Nice

For those who were asking they are M5 brakes with M5 wheels.
Something to note about the wheels; they are forged from the factory by fuchsfelgen. They were then chromed in California. I was never a fan of chrome wheels, but for some reason it just seemed like a good idea with the chrome trim. And I couldn’t be happier with how they look. I guess it just works with the older body style and the modern wheel design. I was originally going to go black, but that look seems to have become all too common. Overall I’m very happy except with the maintenance nightmare that is chrome wheels. I had no idea they need to constantly be cleaned to prevent corrosion, but I only learned this after the purchase. Oh well, as my father put it, “it’s not your first set of wheels and won’t be your last. Wheels aren’t an investment, so just relax and enjoy”. I think I have some mild OCD and he could tell the idea of corrosion was slowly but surely eating away at me (no pun intended!). He’s right though; they’re just wheels. I was running heavy cast 20x10.5 square before, and the difference with these lightweight alloys is mind blowing. I would also guess I am running a unique tire size that no one else in the world is using. My previous setup was 305/40r20’s squared. As I am staggered now the sizing is 305/40r20 R and 275/45r20 F. This additional step in aspect ratio is a game changer in the fantastic (…NOT!) nyc roads. And especially so if you have some suspension mods. It doesn’t look all too bad either, actually i quite like it, and zero rubbing! I had to run spacers with extended wheel bolts on my previous wheels (ET35 w/ 15mm spacer) and I am so glad to have it gone. Always in the back of your head that you're running a piece of metal with extended bolts. Id also like to mention, the pilot sport A/S’s. They are really an engineering masterpiece. I don’t think I will ever use another tire again. Thanks guys.

Ceramic coat the rims and it will keep them cleaner longer, make them easier to clean and should provide some protection from the winter conditions.

Wednesday night on the way back home the battery light started blinking and not long after I was sitting by the side of a corn field waiting on the tow truck.

I planned on it, but got lazy :( hit it with the ceramic wash from griots though. Honestly, i dont know if it can even hold up. Gets pretty toasty in that area. I may just plastidip the entire wheel for the winter.

Ouch, sounds like the alternator, been there before...

BigBody, very nice looking X5!

After curbing one of my refinished style 87s (so mad) I went and purchased a known genuine set I found for sale.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...573dbc1585.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b7129b42f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...413f7480ca.jpg

Definitely the alternator.

I've previously experienced the xmas lights going on one by one when my tensioner pulley came apart and shredded the drive belt on the e46 wagon a couple years ago.

Power steering pump replaced. Annoying whine noise didn't go away. It can be heard even louder while turning wheel... I was sure it's ps pump, but... Gotta check the alternator tomorrow.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5_...zTas87c6w=w768

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zr...cYpYUwk7g=w768

Also new oil for the engine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W8...hCv66podA=w768

What's the consensus on the best route for pixel repair? My radio is fine but my MID is so bad that I can sometimes not read the mileage. It's weird, sometimes in the winter there won't be a single pixel out, but only when it's very cold. 98% of the time though I can hardly read the odometer or tripometer. This makes logging my mileage difficult.



Is it better to send in or repair myself? If I send it in, is it possible to drive the car without the MID?

Big thank you. Means alot from a member who's X i very much i look up to :p:

MID (multi-Function Information Display) is the unit in the center of the car, where "radio" station, CD Player etc. information appears.

This is the MID...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/03...5.11.56_PM.png

The text display under the speedometer and tachometer are part of the main cluster.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/02/b9...b420679bd7.jpg

It's possible to drive with no MID unit.

It's not really possible to drive (much or far) with no cluster!

If you are having pixel issues with the main cluster, I'd send it out. I've fixed a MID display and it was bloody tough.

Sorry, I meant the cluster. Can you drive without it? I mean, I can drive without a speedo for a couple of weeks, no problem. (I rarely/never drive on highways)


I am more wondering if everything will still work without the cluster.

Quite probably. Will you get a "tamper dot" on the mileage counter? Again, quite probably.. YMMV (literally in this case!). ;)

156,017 miles

Drain and fill front and rear diffs and transfer case. Engine oil and filter too while under there.

Transmission gear oil replaced 20k miles ago.

1 liter Transfer Case Fluid BMW-83222409710 (have some left)
Bought drain and fill bolts but they were the wrong ones. Re-used existing.

3 liters Differential Fluid BMW-07512293972 (have some left)
Replaced two drain and two fill plugs

1 oil engine Oil Filter BMW-11427512300 Genuine bmw

2 engine Oil Filter Housing Cover O-Rings BMW-11427549573 Genuine bmw

7 liters engine Oil BMW-83215A2AF99 0w-30

1 replaced oil pan drain bolt

Took a photo of rear of engine and there was more oil there than I would like. Rear main seal? I don't notice anything dripping on the driveway.

The skid plate removal was a PIA.

The only downside is that now I hear clunking at low speeds which feels like its coming from right under the drivers seat. Everything felt and looked tight when re-installing the skid plate.

Brad

very very doubtful its the rear main.... in the process of going through this right now.

my money is the right side of the oil pan gasket if its a 3.0
had chased it for a bit but its the pan gasket. Its not hard, but a PITA as there is a ton of things that have to be removed including the subframe/front diff and both axles...

Or you can cheat cut the gasket in 2 pieces and do it that way.

Appreciate the reply SB.

Brad

Do you have to mess with the steering rack to change the pan gasket?

yes and no, I unbolted the tie rod ends at the arm, and I removed the 2 bolts that hold it to the sub frame, I DID NOT BUST THE STEARING SHAFT LOOSE

Same process when I did my OPG. I used some tie downs to hold the steering rack all the way forward to get the clearance to remove the OP. No need to disassemble the steering coupler. :thumbup:

Oil Pan is back on, dif has a new seal and O-Ring on it ready to go back in, front drive shaft is all cleaned up. Found a TCase bolt that I must have never ran in or thought was in as it was cross threaded about 1 thread in. Dang I am normally better than that. Had to have happened when I slid it back to put the new longer driveshaft in 8yrs ago.

While I still love working on these things I have found that without a hoist, I move at it slower. Might also have something to do with having 2 others to drive while repairing the 3rd( Z4/M3) plus the VROD Also no rush as I found a bad inner tie rod, so waiting on parts

Got it inspected, ordered an Avin unit. Going to get window tint quotes, might buy a steering wheel.

Decided to pull the trigger on some oem kidneys. The ill-fitting matte black ones that were on it when I bought the car didn’t look good on a black vehicle, and the titanium option for the 4.8is just looks awesome! I can’t imagine wanting to replace these with something so cheap looking. Next time I feel like spending a not-so-necessary $300, I’ll replace the hood vents :)

Excuse the messy garage. Was awaiting another quart of transmission fluid to finish filling it properly, and we just went through a hurricane so I’ve been pretty occupied with yard work, saving frozen stuff, etc.

https://i.imgur.com/fwjyIcQ.jpg?1

I documented my e53 journey to warn others not to make the same mistake I did. Lol

https://youtu.be/hN8QKlFqFyA

Cheated on Ole’Girl.. Ugghhh.. BuT I LiKe iT..!

https://youtu.be/_vsnKLIwxN8

jeez that's quite a few things wrong with that poor X5, and I thought I was having bad luck sometimes :D

had the coolant pipe replaced and now the beast 'purrrs' again without rattling

DaYuM!! :wow:

What did I do to mine today? Seriously thought about shooting it, multiple times. This thing is a PITA.

You wish that's what you did to it today. . . .

So do I.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

They (E53) really are amazing SAV’s..! :2thumbs:

Even when I test drove an E70 M, for a potential purchase, although it had fantastic power and sound with the M button, it has a completely different feel in my opinion.

And for me, the manual gearbox is just awesomeness! And I think the above E53, still looks better than the newer ones. JMHO.. [emoji3]

I couldn't agree more. On all accounts. I love the E53 more than any of the other generations so far. I've never driven an X5M of any generation but its not the power that makes me love the E53 its the bank vault doors and slight heftiness. As for the manual, well not all of us can be so lucky. If I had the time I'm sure I could chop a center diff out of something AWD and mate it to a 420G but for now I'll just enjoy what I have.

As for what I did today. I ordered seemingly the last Basser Stealthbox-type 10" sub enclosure currently available, because as soon as I placed my order a "not currently available" message appeared on the listing and UPS says its already in their possession so it looks like I lucked out. Now I'll just have to stare at it for like 8 months before I get a chance to install it.

Bought a steering wheel, just because it was very cheap... around 35USD. Need's some leather paint. Still wanna get the facelift heated sport steering wheel, if I can find one. Probably sell this one later on.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XS...a6q3semrw=w768

Next step is to measure what length of v-belt I need to take out the power steering pump. Annoying whine is there, without belt it is gone. Turning water pump or alternator with hand they seem fine.

Bought a belt to run the x5 without ps pump and indeed noice is still coming from the pump. Gotta try a good used one, if noise goes away before asking for warranty. If the third pump makes the same noise... Probably gotta replace steering rack?:rolleyes:


Also fixed the steering wheel. Looks ok, not perfect but old car's don't need it... :D


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n3...ZhYIc7ySg=w768

The rack should have nothing to do with the condition of the pump and the pump making noise. Did you flush the system when you changed the pumps?

Fluid was changed two times before I replaced the pump.

Steering rack rebuild on my 4.8iS last November.

I still wonder about the torque converter on the rack as it's not re-buildable.

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/613db8d0...121-WA0009.mp4

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/613db8e7...121-WA0008.mp4

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bafcb5e686.jpg

Bad pumps

Nice luck, if new pump is bad. We will see tomorrow as I replace the pump again.

I think if it fails it just locks up and becomes 1:1 and no more variable. I'd prob personally prefer it. I don't love the steering on wife's e70.

I just assumed it would cause a turbidity problem if it failed, but to be fair that was just a WAG.[emoji848]

I also don't have any love for my mechatronic shifter adjustment....[emoji28]

The wife is now pushing for an A8 Audi 5.0 after she burns the White Witch. [emoji879][emoji15]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Not sure a VAG V8 is going to provide less stress.

I own a 2001 Audi S6 with the 4.2 V8, it has been wonderful. Regular maintenance, and parts as they wear out. The only major problem has been the power steering rack, I have had to replace that twice. Mine seem to fail every 75K miles or so, probably because of all that V8 weight / power / torque on top of it along with the Quattro. But then again both my wife and I drive that car like we stole it, because it’s just a lot of fun to drive at any speed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's the one with the timing chain at the back of the engine right?

Yep, used pump in and noise is 90% gone.

Winter Ready Checked
 

Winter Ready Checked

Finally got around to install my winter set up wheels and decided to go bigger on tires with 265/60/18 Hankook Dynopro AT M. Happy with the performance and look, zero rubbing with no lift. Surprisingly there is no road noise.

https://xoutpost.com/members/francce...1-winter1.jpeg

https://xoutpost.com/members/francce...2-winter2.jpeg

Does ordering a new left front caliper count?

So last night I finished up what I would call a compete cooling system update and Oil Pan gasket replace, along with new axles, axle seals new oil in both diffs, TCASE oil change. only to find while it was sitting in the driveway for a few weeks, the left front caliper froze up. I just replaced it may2019 but has lifetime warr, bad is the store I got it from its a non stocking part and has to be ordered :(

down a few more days, glad its summer and the Z4 isnt giving me problems

If that's your winter setup, what do you drive on in the summer? That looks like a normal AT tire to me. OK in the snow but not really a winter tire.

Well, winter to me :-) I'm in VA so mild winters. Summer set up is Staggered Package Tires: 275/40/20, 315/35/20

https://xoutpost.com/members/francce...01-manual2.jpg

Gotcha. I actually drove for the first four winters I had the car using some Goodyear A/Ts (all year round). But in the snow they are just not very good, especially now that the tread blocks have all been rounded off. Better than an all season, but not by much. I finally got some studless snow tires last year and wish I had done it sooner.

I don't drive a ton of miles 10-11k per year.

I spent my tire budget on a bit of a bidding war when I bought my car at auction so I was stuck with the studdless snow tires that came with.

After avoiding 3-4 accidents do to the snow tires during summer/fall/spring I decided to run winter tires year 'round and 74,000 miles later I'm very happy with that decision.

Cheaper than having two sets off tires to just replace more often. So far the timing had just lucked out that I've had full winter tread through the winters and wore them out through the warmer seasons where there was plenty of non snow tread just not good for snow.

I would agree that studless snow tires are great to run for about 9 months out of the year. I like the fact that they don't need to be changed at a particular date like studded tires do, and I typically put them on early or run them late, depending on how much time I have. In fact, road test data shows that they are usually significantly stickier than all-seasons in rainy conditions, and even in dry weather as long as the temperatures are not hot. But in the summer they definitely do not grip as well as a normal all-season. All the data I have seen is that they are a liability in hot/dry conditions. Unfortunately there is limited tire test data out there for this sort of comparison, but the data I have seen it is a significant drop-off in grip. I admit I have not driven on mine in hot weather other than a handful of times, but when I did I could tell they felt greasy in those conditions and I could tell it was time to change tires.



Edmunds, for example, did a tire test and found their studless tires took 155 feet to stop from 60mph, compared to 131 feet for their all-season and 120 feet for the summer tires they had tested. I don't know what tires you are running, Andrew, but I definitely hope that others think twice before they take your recommendation.

Not all done today but the last 2 weeks after spending months chasing down a coolant leak I figured out it was coming from the hard plastic pipes under the intake manifold. I decided it was time to do a little refresher. This is most of the parts not including replacing all the vacuum lines as well as a few other parts and spending several hours just cleaning the engine, ALL the parts and engine compartment as well as the suspension & frame parts I could reach with dish-washing liquid and a paint brush. I hate working on a dirty engine.


I almost forgot, I built a make shift fuel injector test bench and ran about 1 cut of fuel cleaner (B-12) through each injector using a injector tester and 25 psi or air pressure. Each injector gave a nice spray pattern and seemed to spray the same amount of fuel in the same amount of time. I didnt bother testing and measuring it down to the micron. lol Looks good.


Not quite finished but almost.


https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...2828-parts.jpg https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...827-parts2.jpg https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...826-parts3.jpg https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...825-parts5.jpg https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...824-parts6.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/members/lovbyts...0-injector.jpg

Replaced magnetic switch in valve body last item for a 5088 code..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...28325bfa63.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f83c57b112.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Except they do the hot road stop test on clean dry pavement not the oily Chicago roads I drive on more often than not.

I drive about 20 total hours a year (of 450 or so) in conditions bad for my tires, it's absolutely worth the trade off to stick with the soft compound year 'round for me. I get it's not for everyone but after the third minor accident avoided due to winter tires in summer I'm a permanent convert.

So if you drive mostly in city where enough traffic keeps the roads covered in an oily film I promise over much better traction than any summer or "3 season" tire.

[mention]Bdc101 [/mention] Is absolutely correct about doing your homework if 1 season tires are best for you. I wouldn't even consider if below about 43.4 latitude. Also depending on when/how you drive.

I commute about 75 miles 140 minutes regularly to Chicago and the last 20 minutes is a greasy slip n slide almost everyday also most of my drives are done and night so even in summer it's 70-75f 21-23c so those are significant factors in will studdless year 'round work for you.

Also like bdc mentions I can absolutely feel my tires turn gooey at high temps and I moderate my driving to compensate for the loss of grip and also to not shed 1000s of miles off the lifespan each trip.

One more point to make: tires marketed as all season I refer to as 3-season. They have less than half the traction of my tires on polished snow like side streets become when driven on before plowed. I watched a poor guy spin his "3-season" tires upwards of a minute before getting out of a parking spot. I backed in and pulled out taking a video. My front left tire spun less than 60° total vs countless revolutions. I've also driven up snow banks and through ice ruts as well as one time I parked in 3-4" of water that froze solid around my tires and I drove right out without incident.

All factored into why I keep the studdless always. One other great example: wet leaves in a corner in fall! They are almost a non issue where with my previous car I had to pay great attention to avoid a spin-out.

I lived in Michigan for almost 30 years. I never changed tires for the winter. The tires I ran in the summer were the tires I ran in the winter. As for studded tires---https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/studded-winter-tires

These showed up. Fitting them should be... "fun." Already found the 2" mid doesn't exactly fit in the dash. :rolleyes:

https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/atta...2&d=1631719709

Infinity Kappa’s! One of my favorites..!! :2thumbs:

Matches the theme on last picture. I bought this:


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bj...IwDsbzbIg=w768
:D

1. I love kappa, had a kappa'd out EK hatch in highschool that won many a sound competition.
2. I just bought that same box (basser) going with a dayton HO.
3. I went with Excelons in the dash.

[QUOTE=crystalworks;1209684]These showed up. Fitting them should be... "fun." Already found the 2" mid doesn't exactly fit in the dash. :rolleyes:

Pictures please, and lessons learned. I would like to replace my door speakers at a minimum, but the “tube” that the OEM speakers are mounted to seems like it will pose a real problem. The OEM speakers and this tube look to be a single unit.

I've never used Kappas but have used Reference components. These model numbers look to be a cut above and are clearancing out so are available at a steep discount right now. I like Infinity tweets because they are still textile. Metal is just too tinny for me. These are replacing BSW setup installed by previous owner.

I'm taking plenty. Will do a build thread eventually. Technically have one, but it's from 2 or 3 years ago when the project stalled. :D

If you want info now though there are a couple of good threads on direct replacement drivers by Propellerhead and X53Jay4.8is. Links below.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-speakers.html

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1097170

Partied too early. Ps is still keeping same noise... One more pump is coming, after that I don't know what could make the noise. There is not much components on that system, so...

I use an automotive stethoscope to isolate noises like that. Do you have one? They're pretty cheap and with one you can effectively put your ear right next to various components that could be making the noise.

I tested it with shorter belt that it's ps pump that is making the noise.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/18..._V4wv-kw=w1024
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tq...AyKr333w=w1024

Bought winter wheels.

Nice! Wet can't use studded here but those look like my studdless winter tires even without studs.

That's how you do a winter setup! :thumbup:

Yep, it's michelin x-ice north 4. Been using it for past 3 winter's now.

There is my winter setup for the e65 in the backround also. :D

Those look expensive! But probably very nice to ride on.



They allow studs here but I have been happy with studless. Blizzaks on my X and Hakka R2s on my Mazda 6.



I have an intermittent fast blinker on one side and I learned from a search that the bulb socket/wire may be at fault. Anyone had any experience with fast blinkers? It is the front corner light that is not illuminating.


Pelican has the sockets for $33 apiece but wants to charge $11.50 for shipping. Crazy

I work at tire shop, so I get decent prices. I would prefer studless tires in my area, but my wife only drives with studded tires. :D

Also someone sidewiped on my e65 and ran away... Had to replace both door's... Thank god I found both of them innthe same color.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...NGRyXdYw=w1024

I have been seeing an intermittent rapid flashing blinker on the driver's side for the last month or two, and when it happens the front turn signal is dead. I went ahead and ordered two new replacement bulb sockets with pigtails. After searching it seems that this problem is often associated with bad sockets, and I have had bad sockets in the back taillights as well.

Got the webasto control unit repaired, and gotta do some testing if it now works. If it works, got think how updgrade the remote for it.


As I got this old bulky remote: https://srotas24.co.uk/car-parts/web...008365710.html :D

That remote is hilarious*. I thought the new interface uses cellular.

*Not really in a funny way.

T91 would be good enough for me...


https://www.autoalarm.fi/WebRoot/OVK...uko-ohjain.jpg

zener - check out this post (thread): -

https://www.xoutpost.com/1079703-post7243.html

Sweating under pressure...
 

Coming soon to a weekend near me...

https://i.ibb.co/3Tv86v1/20210921-183226.jpg

Yep, I looked into it. But I want the t91 because it responses back to remote if the signal goes through.

Wpoll, is that a PS hose? Let us know how that job goes.

Yep, pressure hose from the pump to the rack. Hoping it's a simple task, other than having to remove the reinforcing plate (which is also simple but has many many fasteners, plastic panels etc.). :rolleyes:

It is on my list too. I bought that QuickJack a few months ago and need to start using it! Otherwise the wife will start asking why we needed it

I had wanted to buy one for years but it's a costly box to buy new. No one locally was selling one, so I made my own by using the Original plastic sub box and gutted it for a shallow mount sub. Love it but I'm sure it's not as good sounding as the Basser designed one. But I also don't have to remove mine if a light bulb needs replacing either...

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I bought it for under 50 bucks. :)

Been testing webasto for every morning. Seems to work now that control module has been repaired. It was a cheap fix, for now.

You haven't used it yet? :wow: Both my cars were up in minutes once I had it all setup. Life changing. :thumbup:

I wish my latest distraction had the ability to go up on the QJ. I have stepped back 52 years now to a floor jack and jack stands again. :rolleyes:

Well I have a couple of times, but I ran out of work! Things get done a lot quicker, especially when they are just simple fluid changes and tire changes. I'm certainly not complaining, but I just don't want to attract unwanted attention :bustingup

Today, I went to roll down the windows to feel the nice fall weather down here in the South, and heard the wonderful sound of the right rear window crashing down into the door. :) I've had this thing for 2000 miles and I think I've experienced every single common problem with the E53. Lucky me!

^I got one too. LF DHC failed. My first one in 22 years of owning BMWs. And actually, I'm going to say the streak is still alive because it actually broke on someone who was borrowing the X5. So, logically, I have yet to actually break a DHC. Haha

BTW, despite Andrew's wonderful documentation I was unable to repair with a steel zip tie. Wasted about 3 hours fiddling with it last night. Ordered $54 shipped Febi from FCP this morning. Should have done that to begin with.

Attachment 80937

I think my Left rear has semi-destructed. It feels like the hinge has worked loose in the 3-4 years since i rebuilt it, but since it's strapped together it still functions just takes a lot more than normal effort (like when it's about to break the first time, but stays working dirt months).

I'd be interested in that core to do a repair if possible and maybe I can make a video for future folk. It's only easy if you get the tricks all figured out.

Three was A lot of cursing involved figuring out the tricks. The spring is at least 8/10 difficulty until you learn the trick and then it's 4/10.

You will spend at least an hour having the spring snap the hinge open on you countless times (hence the swearing).

I didn't pinch my finger but I've had my finger get a direct snap from that spring and it's a MFr that will cause much swearing.

Thanks for sharing a real world kicked your butt story we all have them.

I'm on round three of replacing PVC drain pipes due to stubborn seams that keep failing pressure test!

I used the metal zip tie on a new DHC for the Drivers door. Worked pretty good for over 3 years. Hasn’t needed replacement yet.

Oh for sure. I will reinforce with a zip tie as well. I bet the handles lasts longer than I do after that.

I have to have all the door panels and vapor barriers off for door deadening and speaker installation so I'll probably reinforce all the carriers before they break. Probably save myself from ever having to do a DHC on this X5 in the future. That's the hope anyway. :D

I can send it your way for sure.

Oddly enough, the easy part for me was to get everything seated back in, spring included. That only took about 15 minutes of fiddling until I got the pliers on it. I spent 2+ hours trying different methods of getting the zip tie tight enough. Between pulling/levering more of it to pull through to wedging different size objects in there to take up the slack. :dunno:

Made some more room for the camber adjustment bolt in rear right. Now the car looks much more nicer from rear as camber is even. :D
-1.35 degree on both sides.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yC...IcvZVx3Ww=w768

I replaced the rear subframe bushings today. It was super easy with the custom press tool! I had a clunk when first starting to accelerate from a stop and I thought this would cure it, but honestly, the old bushings look alright. I replaced them anyway but I don’t have high hopes for curing the clunk after I get it back on the road :( I guess I’ll try the motor mounts next!

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Recording of clunk? If from rear the transmission mounts are suspect

What is this custom press tool you speak of??

Maybe “customized” is a better word. Haha. There’s a bunch of variations out there, but I used this one from Amazon. The dies are specifically sized and their surfaces have cut outs that match the rear subframe bushings.

Supercrazy Rear Suspension Subframe Bushing Removal Installation Tool Compatible with BMW X5 E53 1999-2007 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017F4NVBI...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I always tie wrap new hinges. If/when the hinge breaks the door will still operate.

Damn that's a pretty car [mention]Overboost [/mention] !

I think I would have to make a mod to the QJ to lift it. A couple pieces of 2" square with a couple holes in the right place I think would do the trick. Maybe 1.5" square in the middle on the ends.

(We once replaced an axle on a trailer with an off the shelf boat trailer axle and the frame rails were so far inboard, the axle was bent like a boomerang).

We added 1.5" square tube below the axle and with some spacers and some u-bolts made the axle nearly twice as strong and laser straight.

JY Score
 

Went to the local PnP on Friday. They had 5 E53's. 4 3.0 M54s and 1 4.4 N62. To my surprise 3/5 had rear window shades (2 complete unpicked) and 4/5 had complete shadow line trim. Anyway, I went there with a purpose. Needed sacrificial lambs for my speaker install. Got all 6 speakers I needed plus a whack ton of harnesses so I can make plug and play the new speakers. Everything you see below for $41. I'll call that a win considering I priced out the plugs and pins and was over that with just those let alone used speakers on Ebay.

Attachment 80946

And a fun lineup comparison shot of the different door woofers. Not sure what I'll do with the BSW setup as it is stupid rare now and I might keep it should I get another 4.8is as this is designed as a drop in for the DSP equipped E53's. Previous owner sprung for the full front stage tweeters, dash mids, and door woofers. I'm curious if he also did the rear doors. Guess I'll find out when I get there.

Attachment 80945

Attachment 80948

Great speaker upgrade updates, thank you...keep 'em coming!

I spend the morning finally running my back-up camera from the bottom of the trunk spoiler through the right hand rubber cable channel to the roof, and down to the right cubby hole with the fuse box in it. I thought that I might put in on the tailgate, but after pulling the plastic panels I decided that this was going to be way too hard. I was familiar with the spoiler lip process after running the Sirius radio antenna (under the cheap-o ebay shark fin).

There is significantly more room in the right rubber cable channel than the left, as that one has the tubing for the window wash. The right only has wires and a little WD40 goes a long way. Fortunately the camera manufacturer thought to put a plug in the middle of the wire and and a narrow circular one at that.

I've got my wiring harness all soldered up and wrapped, and now that the antenna and camera are in all I need to do is to run the antenna and camera wires from the back cubbies up to the dash...thats "all". I have no illusions that this will be easy. I also need to find out where to tap into power and reverse signals for the camera and receiver.

The housing I chose is soft rubber with a double sided sticky foam tape. The camera friction fits inside of the housing and can be adjusted by force. I also tried to seal the hole I drilled for the wire with silicone caulk, from the top. I don't expect too much water to get in from the bottom. I do want to get some thicker double sided gasket foam for the shark fin...cheap ebay part didn't come with thick enough gasket in my opinion.

https://xoutpost.com/members/henn28-...up-camera2.gif

Fixed some cracks in my wood trim on the doors using glu boost. Started with those to see how it works before pulling the center console that is full of cracks to repair it. Stuff works great. Learned a couple tricks with it which is why I did the door trims before taking on the center console.

Will do. Actually it's a 3 year install. :rolleyes: There's an install thread but I'm going to start a new one when it's nearing completion as searching through pages for updates is a pain. Why 3 years you ask? Kids, old house, 5 BMWs, both our parents need our help more, etc, etc. :D Time, is not a luxury we have anymore.

Added a rear shot of the 3 woofers to that last post. Forgot I took one. Interesting idea on that rear camera too. Haven't seen that. Post some better pics. The one in the post above looks like it was taken with a flip phone from 2004. :D

Details and pics forthcoming I assume? One of my aesthetic irritations on Red is the condition of the wood trim. Much appreciated. :thumbup:

I didn't take any of the work on the door trims. The cracks were pretty hard to see. I will definitely do photos and a write up when I do the center console. I hope to be able to do that this coming weekend. It's going to take awhile as the console has to be pulled and the wood pulled off the console. Not looking forward to that. How much plastic will I break? :(

Third PS pump and finally silent one. :D

:thumbup:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

It always sucks when you get a defective part and the suck factor rises exponentially if it happens more than once in a row.

Last year my replacement alternator lasted 1 or 2 drive cycles

Nice!

Like Andrew, when my alternator failed, it took 2 rebuilt Valeos before finally getting an off brand new one (from Ebay of all places) that worked. Fun times.

Past years I have always bought good used pump from ebay and never had problem. This time I bought new aftermarket and it was no good. I loaned pump from a friend, which was 90% good. Bought used pump from ebay and no problems.:thumbup:

I think I was finally able to purchase an OEM seat cushion for my passenger comfort seat. I got the foam for the drivers, OEM Schwartz Nappa seat covers for both front seats, and a new drivers seat switch a while ago. I was getting ready to have the seat upholstery changed and realized I would like to get new foam for the passenger too. Boy was that a challenge. All the BMW sites showed stock but they are drop shipping from BMW and the part is now NLA. Found a new old-stock and if it's real, I'll get the upholstery refreshed and it will look almost showroom inside again. Next is the dumb vent clip fix on the sunroof so it will vent again and lock down properly when closed. Can't wait to get rid of that damn rattle. Still weighing whether I want to pull the engine and trans and have a full rebuild or just do all the usual upcoming maintenance. I'm just thinking that if I have to tear the engine down as far as the timing case for the guides...I might just as well do the block and top end rebuild too.

Flip phone, are you kidding!. 3 year old BlackBerry actually! I confess I need to figure out how to post higher quality pics here. The board keeps telling me my file size is too large.

Spent the morning running the Sirius antenna wire and camera video wire from the rear cubbies to the gaping hole in the dash that used to be my stock, non-DSP and no nav stereo. Ran the video line across the trunk at the tailgate (along the existing bundle, to the Sirius wire in the left cubby. Wrapped them up with the black fabric electrical tape and ran both up the left sils to under the dead pedal and across the drivers footwell into the receiver/cd player void in the dash. Hardest part here was getting the dead pedal loose enough to work the wires under it.

Then tapped into the speed sensor wire in one of the plugs into the instrument cluster and ran it to the receiver hole. Finished the morning by running the Kenwood gps antenna through the dash and into the door gasket at the top of the dead pedal, then up to the base of the pillar and around to the front of the instrument cluster on the dash. I was able to hide the wire almost all the way by forcing it into the gaps with just a short run to where it mounts.

Next I need to figure out where and how to mount the Kenwood microphone and find steady reverse power to finish the wiring. The aftermarket frame/bezel has lots of surface area around the double DIN Kenwood so maybe I can drill a hole and make a decent friction for the mic. Hopefully too my 2002 E53 won’t have the PWS issues with the power from the lighting module. If so I’ll go the relay route at the rear fuse box. Pics when I get smarter on posting better ones.

@crystalworks

I looked into the Infinity 20mx mids a while ago. Mounting holes are smaller than oem in the dash, but since they are smaller an adapter might be possible. Anyway, here is a diagram comparing the sizes of each.

Gray is the BMW dash mid. Light green is the infinity.

As a previous wrestler of the Memphis mids, I would be more concerned about the factory mounting cavity versus the mounting holes not lining up. Is your plan to run without the factory mesh grills or have you already fit them in the cavities? I NEED TO CHANGE because those Memphis are the only gap causing volume limitations. I’m not setup for DSP currently and those Memphis mids are popping with even medium volume. I’d love another option!

Here is a list of midranges (and 3-way systems) that MIGHT fit. I haven't tested any of these, I just grabbed specs off manufacturer's websites.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Thanks, Jeff. The cavity is VERY shallow and some may cut into it possibly to gain depth. There was ZERO tolerance for depth on my Memphis PRX27’s and install was such a PITA! I’d love to know how install goes of these Infinity MX20’s.

As any E53 owner who has to do a regulator or DHC will have to deal with. Had to repair some door panel clips/plastics. Even for ones that have not broken I like to outline them with Permatex black gasket maker. Makes for a permanent prevention of failure (so far). The clamped part had already come loose so got the "pookie" under it and then secured it. Checked it today it's nice and solid again.

Attachment 80954

Thanks for that. As ajacks8 noted below, the depth is the problem. I came up with this solution which works pretty well. Covered it in faux suede. Would rather have them below the factory grilles, but honestly, this doesn't look too bad.

https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/atta...6&d=1632763229

https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/atta...8&d=1632763229

https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/atta...9&d=1632763243

There would be volume no limitations with these mids. Gained a bunch after putting these in. Working on the door woofers and tweeters currently to complete the front stage.

New Wiper Blades
 

I installed new wiper blades. Deep in the back of Walmart, where they sell the customer returns, were 2 Michelin wiper blades that fit the X5. They cost about $5 a piece.

Not bad considering I paid $45 for basic Bosch blades yesterday for another car.

-Stuart

Wow, CW. Those look great! I think I’ll have to tackle that for sure! Thanks for sharing pics!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love that! Solves a lot of problems all at once.

I'v been trying to research a way to fit under oem grill covers, but that might just be futile.

No problem. I can shoot you some shots of the template later if you're interested. Will put it on an 8.5x11 with a ruler so you can reproduce it.

The piece is made of 0.5" and beveled in the front towards the glass to match the down slope of the dash. That was the hardest part. Has an 1/8" roundover on top and has a 45 degree bevel on the bottom to allow it to wrap over the factory dash part and look more clean.

I smell group-buy???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks very OEM. Really nice work.

A somewhat related question for the group: I don’t want to risk having a PWM power source for my radio and back up camera install so I think I’m going to go with the relay option many have used here. I’ll tap into the tailgate fuse for power, and the back up lights for the trigger. It doesn’t matter if the trigger is PWM, does it?

Oh, sorry, I must have broken wind. :bustingup I don't want to admit how long it took to make the 2 that I made. Best you guys are getting is a template.

Thanks. It was the only way those speakers were going to fit in that hole without removing the windshield and cutting into the factory speaker box. That was obviously NOT going to happen. LOL, though it was still fairly annoying to get all the screws in place with the limited working area.

It depends on how much PWM the reverse lights get sent and how much your relay requires to trigger itself. If the PWM is enough to trigger your relay even when the reverse lights aren't on, you're reverse cam will never turn off. I'd hook up the relay trigger to the reverse light before fully installing/wiring it and test it with key on position 2 (or start engine) and with parking lights on for desired function.

I forget, you are installing a Kenwood (or other name brand) head unit? Or an Android?

That makes sense to me. Will do….it’s a Kenwood unit and a basic Boyo backup camera. Both the Kenwood and the Boyo wiring have trigger wires to be powered. I know the Kenwood will need a trigger, but not sure about the Boyo trigger wire, which comes out of the rca jack at the camera side. It says “optional” in the instructions.

Had to give it a shot, CW! Can I ask if you have OR gave consideration to chopping up the original grills. IF the speaker cone resides directly beneath the factory grill cutout (and I don’t know that it does) then cutting a concentric hole to size and recovering the top of the factory piece seems like it might be a little bit easier to work with given that the factory clips and slope of cover are pre-existing. Just a thought I slept on last night and would value your feedback on…Please.

Update***
the Kenwood is in. I rigged up the relay per posts on this forum and once I got the settings right in the Kenwood the camera works great. The lines are static, which stinks, but beyond a camera with a gyro, I couldn't find a unit that could somehow do dynamic lines. Not sure why as I would think that it would just take tapping into another wire somewhere in the dash.

I'm shocked to say that almost everything worked 4.0 on first power-up and after getting some settings right in the kenwood. Sirius, backup camera, bluetooth, etc. Even the steering wheel volume and channel buttons work thanks to the Crux unit. It sounds a little flat on certain inputs to me, so I need to get smart on the equalizer function and perhaps the crossover settings in the Kenwood? I know the BMW unit has crossovers set, so maybe the different settings are at odds?

I chose to run the two USB lines into the ashtray for the time being but would like to make a more permanent installation into the dash at some point. Although I can close the ashtray lid and out of sight, out of mind. Cant get much cleaner than that for a non-smoker.

I drilled a hole in the large plastic aftermarket frame and popped the mic into it for the time being. I need to enlarge it a bit so the mic can fit more securely and secure it with some JB Weld perhaps - if I can do it cleanly. I can always order another frame if it ends up looking home made.

I just did a temporary clean up of the wiring, taped it together where needed and plan on driving it for a week or two to make sure everything stays working. Then I'll tape up the connections, secure the bundles, etc. and clean up/finalize the install. Pics when I have a chance to load them.

replaced windshield washer pump, figuring out the stalk control
 

As I've said before, my "new" X5 is just a back-up vehicle, mainly for carrying more people than our other vehicles can (they're two-seaters or two doors), or for foul weather transport (AWD). So, I haven't driven it but three times since mid-May, and only now have tried the rear wiper/washer system.

The rear wiper needed the fuse (#81) pushed-in to operate, the nozzle needed opening up with a needle, and a new pump also. I bought a cheap one from Amazon for $10, and it is weak, but sufficient (though I think I hooked it up to the front hose). Problem now is that I can't just use the front wiper/washers without triggering the rear system, or vice-versa.

My X5 doesn't have rain sensor or headlamp washers, so it should work as described in the owner's manual. Perhaps the contacts in the stalk have corroded from disuse by previous owners? I had a rotary stalk that did that on a borrowed Chevy truck once, and it started working correctly after I twisted it a couple of dozen times to make good contact.

Not a big deal, and I can use it as-is, unless someone can tell me a reason for both front and rear to fire at the same time.

My bet is the multi switch is messed. The fuse was pulled so the PO could use just the front.

Getting more work done on sound deadening the front doors. Almost done with that and have the woofers installed in the OE housings. Waiting on some tweeter capacitors and the door handle carrier to put everything back together so I can hear this thing.

Hah, now worries.

I did give that a thought. If you notice in that pic I picked up a couple of spare dash mid grills from the yard. At the end of the day these mids (others might cooperate more) are very wide all the way around the back side. They don't have a basket that tapers in. Without raising the speaker 1/2"+ I could not clear the plastic "box" that BMW built for the mids. You can see the plastic in the pics. Other mids might work, these won't without cutting that plastic in there.

Edit: Here's a better shot of the plastic enclosure that's in there.

Attachment 80957

Changed tie rod ends and found out that the rack is leaking in to dust boots... Servotronic racks aren't easy to come by. Only one brand seems to rebuild them.

added new side lights, bought a used map dome light, getting my oil filter housing gasket replaced tomorrow, the rebuild on the 04 e53 3.0i slowly coming along. can't wait for the finish product.

oops, operator error!
 

Tried it today with better results...I had been operating it yesterday leaning into the truck from outside, and must've exerted pressure on the stalk to activate both systems. When seated, after reprogramming the delay interval for front & back separately, they operated as I had expected them to.

Fresh oil change at 150560 miles. Wow, it sounds different with new oil. For only 5k miles, it was dirty. I bet the previous owners pushed the oil to the limit! It' not easy finding Castrol A4/B3 oil here. It's like $11 a quart. A 5 quart bottle is cheaper on line. A new bottle is on order to keep it topped off over the next 5k miles.

Plus, installed two blind spot mirrors. Looking straight out the side and seeing the mid pillar is not good.

Instead of bind spot mirrors I bought European style panoramic mirrors they are incredible. No blind spot at all. I can see the hood of a car that passes me before it leaves the mirror. There also is a line printed on the mirror to mark where it curves that works perfect as a lane change guide. When the line crosses the center of a car I just passed, the car is about 1 car length behind me.

Interesting. Ebay mirrors? My plan is order new folding mirror sensors. The fix worked for a while. Now they fold and open back up. The metal clips keep falling off. $30 for each is not compared to other parts.

Unless you get an analysis, you can't tell just by looking at its color. The oil gets "dirty" within 500 of an oil change. This appears to be a characteristic of the M54. However, the inside of the engine (at least mine) is very clean without any oil stain the last time I seen it opened up for a valve cover gasket changed!

blind spot mirrors(aspheric BMW mirrors are crazy expensive)
 

I'm too cheap to try to retrofit/modify my X5 to better side or interior mirrors. It has the base mirrors with two small spot mirrors added, no blue tint, heating, or folding function. If I find the need for more blindspot coverage, I might add a non-BMW-ish "Wink Panoramic" mirror, like I once used on my '66 Chevelle Malibu 2-dr., when I used it on the street.

I drove 120 miles round-trip diagonally across Tarrant & Dallas counties (into Collin Co.) on my daily commute, through some of the worst traffic in the state of Texas (for over 30 years). When I occasionally drove the Chevelle, its' small mirrors and huge C-pillars made for extreme blind spots that I needed to overcome.

I added a Wink (I think, or Pilot, or Rally) Panoramic mirror just under the regular rear-view mirror. Its' five panels helped me see the devious swerving and lane-changes made by women putting on their make-up at high speed, so I could avoid car carnage.

Once I quit street-driving the Chevelle, and dedicated it to dragracing only, I gave the mirror to another guy (not much need for a blind spot panoramic mirror on the drag strip; lane changes are frowned-upon).

Lane changes are the most exciting part of a drag race as a spectator b though.

My panoramic mirrors cost $25 for the pair. Worth every penny.

I have used stick on blind spot mirrors and they are very helpful.

20% as helpful as a full mirror panoramic that doesn't need it though (having used very nice stick on blind spot mirrors since 1990 or so, I can attest they are a cheap imitation of the real thing)

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

PS I've seen that type of panoramic mirror before and the view is unbeatable, but definitely not going to dress up the curb appeal of a luxury SUV.

I'm talking about the replacement for side mirrors that fit inside the stock mirror housings.

I did a thread on it when I replaced mine I'll see if I can find.

I may have just added to a different thread but it's discussed in detail here:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ifference.html

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9b31251bd.jpg
Here's an excellent example of how much better the reflection is in the panoramic mirrors is.

Also comparison of blind spot bubble mirror vs. the European panoramic mirror with a car parked in my blind spot marked in red. In the panoramic mirror two things to take note of:

➀ the size is about 8-10x as big
➁ it’s in the correct relative position (left bottom side of mirror not right top side).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b12af4c783.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1b2e44c88d.jpg

Some cars have a nice blind spot mirror built in as a separate segment of the mirror but their is a distinct break so it has gaps so you will have some double vision or missing parts. The one piece solution is unbeatable.

FYI the blue tinted bubble mirror I bought at an auto parts store was a great solution until I bought the panoramic mirrors. Color matched the blue tint on my OE mirrors and fit nice in the corner.

I used similar on my motorcycle back in the day. Very good functionality.

Bought used steering rack, gotta order the repair kit and change seals for it. If it works, I will do same on the other rack also and keep it as spare.

Interesting to see if this can be done and what kind of special tools are needed.

Won't help mine which has worn gears. Enough backlash I get steering shimmy. :-(. I have a used replacement but the TIS says "first lift your engine" so I haven't started the swap yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Febi DHC installed yesterday. Works great. Will buy same for other doors in future should need arise.

Or more like drop the subframe and try to prevent engine dropping on you. ;)

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I haven't searched the interwebs for a video showing the procedure yet.


Crap just looked and confirmed :-( lower subframe is part)

Depo Angel Eyes
 

Finally got around to wiring the angel eyes on the depo headlights I put in last month. Routed the wires under the windshield cowl, took power from the positive jump point, grounded at the hood hinge ground point, ran trigger wire to the ECU power wire. I didn't set the 2nd trigger to the footwell lights but I might in the future. I'm very happy with the update to the headlights and overall look up front now.

Feels so good.

When I replaced my headlights I hooked up the rings to the o2 heater but my O2 died and I didn't hook up right away to the replacement.

Felt so good when I got them hooked back up.

It's funny how they operate though. The heater power is applied for up to maybe 7 minutes after engine off sometimes just a minute.

Was by far the easiest way I could figure out to run the lights. No relay no wiring into the eBox etc.

The cool thing is that the Depos came with a relay and inline fuse so I had no worries about wiring into my ECU power in the eBox. I even used the grommet to get the wire into the box so moisture wouldn't come into play (though we don't get much out here in the desert...LOL). The ECU seems to power down after about 2 seconds from key to off position.

Yeah nice stuff. I bought low-fi lights they had a bunch of red and black wires with "good luck to you".

Palm Springs- Angel eyes look good.

Front left brake caliper decided stuck on motorway while I was driving to work...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/im...rx9MiCZAg=w512

It was good that I had new seals and piston's for the calipers in hand.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/34...iJjUYCWPA=w512

So I replaced them and hopefully they work now. :D
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IY...QDzlYYdow=w512

Do they salt the roads there? That is some serious rust.

Yep, they do tend to use salt in winter time...


Also bought another steering rack, and gonna try to rebuild it myself.

I did "repairs" to cracks in the wood of my console.

I posted a write up and photos here: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1210663

Finished installing the front stage of my stereo install, along with sound treatment of the doors. I am BLOWN away now with the Kappas. Only spent about 20 minutes with the DSP and the system rivals the B&O system in the wife's F15. It's unreal.

Attachment 81028

Had to order some of these clips before I could put everything back together. If, when you close your door, you have a loud clanking sound, this guy is the reason. Without it (or if it's broken) the metal part on the door card just bounces on the metal prong that is supposed to go through that clip and makes a horrible racket. Part number is 51418156532. After replacing that clip and the sound deadening, the doors close like bank vaults. Think brand new off the show room floor E39 sounding.

Attachment 81029

And when you pull the door card it always comes off the door card. Have to remove it from the door and put it on the door card otherwise you're trying to lower the card onto it blind.

Kappas are no joke! Been one of my favorites for many years now! :thumbup:

Second this. That's how it's supposed to work. If you just pull off the door card this may stay on the door card but is most likely damaged. When you lift the door card this part will stay intact on the door but slides out of the card.

First time I pulled my right front door card, this part was missing. Some ham-fisted fool had replaced the DHC previously and just left the whole thing out (along with a list of other butchery performed while they were in there).

Not having one on hand (and no chance of getting one for weeks) I made a temporary one from soft plastic - I intend to replace it next time the card comes off but so far it's been in there for about 3 years and it still holding fine!

https://i.ibb.co/PgZJjBd/20181224-130939.jpg

Aways had a weird creaking noise I hear when pulling the driver door closed from the inside. I had a feeling this piece was missing and when I first dug in the glovebox I found that clip sitting in there...

Thirds on this. Final step of door card removal is to slide upwards so that clip comes off the metal piece on the door card and remains on the metal clip on the door itself. Then you can transfer it back to the door card before re-installation.

At least, that's how it's supposed to work... in theory. Sometimes the clips don't want to slide/disengage at all from the card and you just break them. Order some for planned door card removal, I got 3 for <$10.

Yep, very common. People either break them of forget them. But hey, we've all been there. After reinstalling my door card I realized I forgot to hook up the handle courtesy light. :( It's always my last step because the clear plastic on the handle that channels the LED, breaks if you just look at it wrong. :dunno:

I bought three of those on my last FCP order. I get them to stay in place during reinstall with some tape but next time off they are getting replaced.

Received steering rack that I bought and took it a part to see if it's rebuildable. Seems fine to me, so I ordered repair kit for it.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C4...1fejDHocw=w512
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c0...RTMBbujdw=w512
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vT...fQbdkLNAA=w512
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vn...WdT8xDzWA=w512

Looks good. What's in the repair kit?

I bought this kit, as it looked only one available: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-E53-...-127632-2357-0

Degrease it completely and put it together and check trueness, lash with strips 1st and clean any burrs (micro file) before rebuilding with your kit. (Don't ask...[emoji28])

The Torque converter is another area where my 1st rebuild took a dump, but was able to get different one for the final rebuild. [emoji849]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Yep gotta clean the parts before. I already took seals out of housing and cleaned it. Gotta do the same for other parts too.

Hello friends, I'm interested in which speakers and amplifier are the best for the bmw e53 (not too expensive) and is there a big difference compared to the factory ones? I have a DSP system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are several threads about changing speakers that you can search. I would start there. I would choose one of those to post your question.

I got in the new turn signal sockets, but it didn't fix the turn signal. After wiggling it for a while I found that it would sometimes work. So I smothered it in dielectric grease and put it back together (with the old bulb) and voila, it's been working for two days now. Sounds like I wasted $65 but at least it's something I'll never have to replace again.

I am also ordering OFHG parts and new power steering hoses. Time to fix those slow drips. That will be my next project.

I installed four new knock sensors on the new 4.6 as well as valley coolant pipes and a used coolant manifold.

Replaced the left rear wheel bearing today. Pretty straight forward - dropped the exhaust, removed the left rear axle, used a slide hammer to remove hub from old bearing, removed old (KOYO) bearing and installed new (KOYO) bearing, installed hub with bearing tool, re-installed rear axle etc...

https://i.ibb.co/c3cDnht/202110091200.jpg

Ah, the sound of silence... (that's a great name for a song!). ;)

Paul Simon would like a word

Is he "Disturbed"... ? ;)

That looks like a pretty loud bearing. I do rear bearing swaps without dropping the exhaust or removing the axle from diff. I found the right combination of extensions and swivel I can loosen the four e-torx around the outer CV joint.

Then for install, I cut a slot in the end of the bolts so I can spin the bolts from the outside with a long slotted screw bit and screw gun. (then torque from under with the afformentioned double wobble extension).

Do you have lift access or done at ground level? Also is there any difference from 3.0i regarding the exhaust that would make it easier other than no salt environment (unless you are close enough to the ocean).

This is the second rear bearing I've done and while I considered using your method, Andrew, I went with what worked last time.

Dropping the exhaust on the diesel is so simple, compared to the petrol models, so it's easy to get to rear axle bolts at diff end. You cannot actually remove the axle from the chassis but once unbolted you can move it out of the way.

Add to that the fact that I always replace the four e-torx bearing mount bolts, having clear access to knuckle for bolting up the new bearing and driving in the hub makes life easier.

How do you get 100Nm of torque onto the four e-torx bolts with your Dr. Suess wrench, Andrew?

Oh I can't. That's just for snugging. About 15 or 20 inches of extension with two wobbles Get me where it’s really easy to use a torque wrench


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro