I got the transmission fluid and filter changed on my "new" ('05) e53. I decided it was too messy and difficult to do myself without a lift (maybe I was wrong, but I didn't want to put it off). The tech said the old fluid was extremely dirty but he didn't find any metal shavings on the magnets or other signs of damage. I'm glad I did it. $398.00.

Then the driver door carrier latch broke. Yep, it's an X5. That I will do myself. Opinions between the Febi-Bilstein part and the cheap Chinese ones? I ordered both, but it will take longer for the Febi to get here.

I got the transmission fluid and filter changed on my "new" ('05) e53. I decided it was too messy and difficult to do myself without a lift (maybe I was wrong, but I didn't want to put it off). The tech said the old fluid was extremely dirty but he didn't find any metal shavings on the magnets or other signs of damage. I'm glad I did it. $398.00.

Then the driver door carrier latch broke. Yep, it's an X5. That I will do myself. Opinions between the Febi-Bilstein part and the cheap Chinese ones? I ordered both, but it will take longer for the Febi to get here.

What I didn't do
 

Everyone is talking about what they did, but I'm over here waiting TO DO things for my truck. Status update.... still waiting for a truck to post/show up in the junkyard so I can get new/used door panels, headlights, and a mile long list of things to replace (as you're all very familiar with what needs to be replace on these classics) other than that... I'm watching paint dry on my calipers. :dunno: and waiting for a few other parts to install before installing all of the rear plastics and headliner. So, she sits in my garage while I dream of driving her...:driver::driver::noadd:

$398 is super cheap. All aftermarket parts and off brand fluid?

Stick with the Febi. Unless you want to be back in there again.

Watched the ice melt off the California Car cover! Someday it will be warm.....

Sneak peek

https://i.imgur.com/7MXEev6.jpg?1

Nice contrast


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Everything else under the hood except the blower is black so I figured a little touch of color was what it needed.

Taste. You has it. :thumbup:

To be honest I didn't ask him where he was getting the filter, it is a GM transmission. It was $80 for the filter kit. Dexron VI fluid. 6 qts for $60. $240 for the labor.

Okay, I don't want to be back in there -- it's just that I have to wait for the Febi which would be okay for any door but the driver.

I spent about a month using the auto window down to reach in and open from inside.

Maybe that's my best option -- I guess that means opening all four windows and the panoramic sunroof each time? I'm a bit afraid of stressing the sunroof. I never had a problem with the sunroof on the old one but I hear the panoramics are fragile.

The fronts open first about half way before the rears. You can stop before the roof opens.

Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow.

Very nice. Powder coat?

Hold the unlock button on your key fob and it should roll your windows down. You can then reach in and open from interior door handle. PITA I know, but it works until you get the part.

Took my E53 out for a much needed drive. :thumbup:

What did I do to my E53 today? I traded her in. Here's the replacement, an F15 space gray metallic 35i


https://i.ibb.co/rkXmwsx/2014-X5-2.jpg

Let me get this straight, a dealer gave you money for your E53?

$3,000 USD

Seems fair for trade in. :thumbup:

Very nice.

Replaced left front axle and both control arms. Inner CV was toast.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7ab819ea89.jpg

Plowed the snow bank back a couple feet toward the curb. It shaves weeks off how long it takes for nature to run its course (water running at the curb)

It was very cold Mr. Wynn. [emoji3063]

8° here at the moment was about 18° when I took that photo.

When it gets to about 25 I’ll cut a groove in the snow back to the curb with my pressure washer and hot water.

The weather is why people move south...

Thank you. What you see below the wood in the photo are my E39s VCs that I had prepped and loved and primed and painted wrinkle red which lasted less than a year. Those will be next once the X back together.

Yes sir, my screen doesn't show the color very well, its fire engine red, very deep and bright. I wanted to go Alzarin Crimson but it was going to be 2x the price and a custom mix so 2x the wait. Took me a bit of calling around Houston to find a place that would even take them. Some said their insurance wouldn't allow magnesium, others acted like I was asking them to do vibranium and had no idea that the process was different.

The X is my daily so we'll see how they hold up.

I just washed mine.



Last time I had my 4.8 in the dealer to get the brakes bled I was waiting for them to finish and the salesman came out and said he'd give me $1800 trade in for it. I have to say I was slightly insulted.
Nice looking F15 BTW.

I would have laughed in his face, like obscene Borat style laughed with forced spittle and all, then told him to stay in his lane and go bother some college girl with a rich daddy. The few times I've visited a dealer with my 4.6 all I get are jealous stares and high fives, maybe I just put off a Richard Cranium vibe.

Rescued a stuck 2wd ford explorer out of the snow bank yesterday.

Also my ABS module is still out for repair so no fancy DSC, just E53 heft, good tires, and of course excellent driving ;)
That marks the 3rd snow rescue I've done with the E53 this year.

And also why they move north.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I did four the other day after 17" snow in Chicago and no plow dive the previous 8" or so. The side streets and alleys were just polished ice ruts with 10" or so of snow plowed by the previous SUV that could make it.

I could drive fine on the ice ruts but couldn't pull a mini van that was plowing 5" of snow on top of it. I broke my tow rope trying to tug it free.

Lived in snow country way too many years. Live in the South. Never going back though Texas may not have been the best decision.

I dream of Florida almost daily because I can't afford Cali and don't have any ties to the cartels to feel safe in Baja. . .

Went to the junkyard at least 10 times to find a replacement headlight for the cracked one from when I purchased the car last month. For some reason out here in California facelift headlights get taken extremely fast. On my last trip ended up finding complete piano/cosmos black interior trim for $20!!

Coolant tank replaced. Now have semi-permanent DSC 4x4 light. Have ruled it to the yaw sensor under the console. Have a used working one on order.

I just replaced my road worn ones and ended up with a few extras in the process. Ebay is your best bet but you need to be careful and ask the sellers the right questions otherwise you may end up with something you don't want.
What side are you looking for? and Xenon or Halogen? I'd be willing to part with one of my extra xenon units. PM me.

Have you checked the steering angle sensor?

I believe actual error codes were targeting the yaw sensor and no sas related errors.

Didn't see that.

I actually found a headlight as well, the lens was a bit rough but nothing that a $13 headlight restore kit couldn’t fix. Figured good temporary solution until I bite the bullet and purchase a new set. I have the halogen zenons. Does anybody know if I can swap the bulb to a D1S or another variant of HID/LED bulb? Tried searching on here but I’m new here so still learning how to search

Not quite sure what that means but I think all face-lift cars (LCI) use HID/Xenon D2S Low/High projector beams with an extra halogen (H1) high beam inboard of the projector.

I'd doubt it's easily done - the projector assembly is designed for D2S HID/Xenon - and changing the projector assembly require opening up the entire headlight...

Use Google and the site search function. Enter something like: -

site:xoutpost.com headlight D2S mod projector LED

Well they’re xenon housings but there’s no ballast on the headlight, the bulbs in there now are just standard H7’s. That’s why I’m somewhat confused

Not the case in the US. HID/Xenon was either a standalone option or part of the premium package when I purchased mine back in 2004.

Africa, Nairobi national park
 

Was on a trip to Kenya and spotted this X5 3.0 in Nairobi national park. The same color as my 4.4. I was driving a rented lexus rx 270 and I just wished I had this beast instead - it looked so amazing in this terrain and part of the world :D.

The "zenon" housing you're referring to is called a projector housing. Xenon is the lighting system type. Xenon refers to the lamp and driver that uses superheated gas instead of a metal filament to create the light.

From the factory E53s came with either Halogens in a projector housing or Xenons in a projector housing. Yours obviously has the standard halogens not the optional xenons.

You cannot install the D2S (or any other standard based xenon) into a factory halogen housing/projector. Swapping the projector housing for an OEM xenon assembly isn't worth the work if you are happy with the aesthetics of the OEM assembly, its easier to just buy the entire OEM xenon assembly do some minor wiring and code for Xenons.

The other more popular but usually less productive choice is to buy a retrofit kit that has a xenon lamp with a halogen type base (H7 in your case). These kits can be had from ebay for as low as $35 (and are a crapshoot for quality) or from more reputable outlets/vendors for up to a couple hundred dollars, and are usually built to a better standard.

Yeah I would've taken pretty much anything over an RX, not that they are bad cars, I just really don't like them.

I do love seeing E53s in environments other than my balmy gulf coast soccer mom round trip. We just came back from Frisco Co and every time I saw snowy, muddy E53 it made me crack a little smile.

When my headlights got cataracts I replaced the entire assembly with some aftermarket models designed with halogen base assembly that I moved over my HID assembly. it is designed with a tilt system that is locked in place until you swap the leveling motor then it works as it's supposed to and auto levels

Just an oil service on both my E53 and E46. Been putting thousands of miles on them in the last 6 months. Used Liqui Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf in a service kit (filter, seals and 7 qts of oil) from FCP Euro. $125 for both cars

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427512300kt-lm

Nothing like some fresh blood! :dancing:

Indeed. I over shot my 5000 mile interval by 2000 miles on the E46. Bad Daddy. :throw:

Yeah, the E46 holds less juice, than the E53. The fluid you use should still be ok, that is good stuff. Hopefully all highway miles. ;)

I know the feeling though. Those rod bearings left me slightly sour. :doh:

All highway miles on the E46. 4 trips down to Florida in the last 4 weeks. Headed down again on Tuesday for 2 to 3 weeks. Prepping a 2021 Porsche GT2RS Clubsport for Pikes Peak down in Pompano Beach and then Porsche 992 GT3 Carrera Cup testing in Sebring followed by round 2 of the LMP3 Prototype Challenge series. I just got back from Sebring this past Monday with Trans-Am. :banghead:

The E53 showed some mayo under the oil cap during the oil service today from all the short 2 mile runs to Mrs. Boost's work during the winter down here, I should probably get that one out to stretch her legs soon.

Busy, busy!

Sebring! :kungfu: That track will kick your ass! I love it. One day, one day! I’ll even take a lap in my dreams, I’m ok with that. LoL..

Mayo, uh oh! Did you check to see if there is suction on that port?

It's fine, just 2 short 2 mile trips a day in sub freezing temperatures never really warms up to burn off the condensation in the CCV system. It needs a couple of long runs to burn off.

Good news! :cool: Mine was bypassed when the supercharger was installed. So for me, it’s plugs and O2’s on the regular. The 50/50 injection keeps everything else clean.

Boost it’s time to start trippin... Road trippin that is! E53 saddle up! Haha...

Now back to my Sebring fantasy! :driver:

How fast did you want to go Happy?

We finally broke the 2:00 barrier in Trans-Am last weekend with a 1:59.8 :thumbup:

You can take a few laps with our car last year in Road America. Andrew Wynn came out for this one. :thumbup:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/G-TQOd...s=0&showinfo=0

Hell yeah! :thumbup:

I am firing up the simulator as I’m typing. That video gave me data I needed for that class of car and that track! Right on brotha!

Well..Showed the 4.6 some love

Front/rear diff fluid change - Liqui Moly
Transfer case fluid change - Redline
Transmission fluid/filter change - ZF fluids
Timing chain tensioner (lower) - Preventative
Engine oil/filter- liqui-Moly and Mann

Love this truck, it’s a great weekend toy.



Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

Love the 4.6. I drive it mostly on the weekends as well. Easy power and feels lighter than its actual weight.

Wish I can replace the diff oils myself. Probably will get a lift first.

I have a hydraulic jack and 4 jack stands in a single car garage. You can do it.

The transmission pan was a challenge, but if you take your time it’s very doable. Between this site and YouTube there isn’t much you cannot do given the proper tools and patience.


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

I agree. Front diff is a little irritating, but well within the reason of diy on a garage floor using stands. Trans pan not bad either with a decent fluid pump.

Replaced front brake pads. Old one weren't worn out but were moving in the caliper carrier and making a loud "click" each time I hit the brakes.

Cheap pads with thin backing plates and not accurately made - the outer pad had "slop" in the carrier and moved about 1-2mm under braking.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VUAg1ux2fferTmvD6

Been driving me nuts, trying to find the darn noise!!

Replaced them with Bendix Euro + and all seems good.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YJZiryBWNAVCRj7W7

Been chasing a slow coolant leak...Was praying it was not leaking into a cylinder. This X5 3.0 has had two head gasket jobs already.... I poured 1/2 oz (half a bottle) of UV dye and ran it for 2 days. Then at night, used UV glasses and UV light and found my leak! turned out to be my heater control valve, which in my case was an OEM unit that I rebuilt with new seals and installed a year ago.

A replacement unit has been ordered.

The UV coolant leak kit is great at finding leaks. Avail on Amazon.

started out my day with the wife yelling "Both my floor mats are filled with water" after our first big rain storm.

Since it was a balmy +7 Celsius today I decided to tackle the front brakes on the wife's X5.

Step 1 remove driver's side tire - easy
Step 2 remove caliper - easy
Step 3...Took me 1.5 hours to get the front caliper carrier bolts off

The rest of that side went smoothly

Everything was going nice and smooth on the passenger side until it came time to put everything back together and now I'm fighting with the caliper piston that doesn't want to retract far back so I can get things back on with the new pads...

I'm losing daylight (sitting here typing away) and it's getting cold. Looks like this will be another #fail

Goddam salty winter roads...

I had the same problem recently and I even used a 1" bolt to push the Piston in!

I ended up having to sand off about 1.5mm total from the two pads before I could replace the caliper.

Belt sander would have been better but I used a flap wheel and right angle grinder.

Brakes squeaked like a bus for a week or maybe two but they are worn in now.

also: I often can't get the caliper bolts out with an impact tool because the necessity of using a wobble extension acts like a torque stick.

A box end wrench and a hammer works every time. A socket and breaker bar also works but the offeset doesn't love to play nice with hammer some times

Painted one rear brake caliper and put the wheel back on. Slooooow process when you don't have time to work on stuff. But hey, ONE brake caliper looks great in Not quite BMW blue, but only you folks and few others will know the difference.

Replaced the rear suspension air bags. Bags were original.

I purchased new rear tires at Discount Tire a while back. Lug bolts on one side were so tight I had to put a floor jack handle over the breaker bar to get them loose and it was still difficult. I'm surprised they didn't break them off. I usually watch them closely but there were lots of people waiting and most of them weren't wearing masks.

My rear tires are sealed so tight I can't budge it with all lug nuts off.

That's what happens when your suv comes from the rust belt states. :(

Do I understand correctly that you have H&R lowering springs with links to drop the rear height?


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

That's correct. I considered coilovers instead of new air bags but it is already at the height I like now and with suspension upgrades I did it already handles better than I need for on the street.

I have had this problem plenty of times.

Put on your lug nuts just snug then loosen about 2/3 of a turn each

Lower the car to the ground and go make a couple figure eights in a parking lot.

You can also just try to drop the wheel back to the ground twist the jack to lower as fast as you can.

Both of those tricks have served me well.

I had a couple of sticky wheels too. I put on new rotors this winter and the wheels still had trouble going over the new rotor hub rings. So the corrosion/buildup was actually on my wheel and not the rotor hub ring. A little scour pad action on my wheel hub bores and the wheels go on and off much more nicely.

When I was trying to get these wheels off one took quite a bit of pounding and wiggling to get it off. It made me think that I'm glad I was doing this in my garage and not changing a flat on a cold night on the side of the road trying to karate kick a seized wheel off of the hub.

^ Had that recently on the newly acquired F15. Wheels were stuck on pretty good. Took a few kicks on top and bottom to finally pop them off. Went at the rotor hubs with drill and metal wheel brushes. Light sanding on the wheel hub and then followed up with copper grease on reinstall. Shouldn't be a problem going forward.

Nothing major done to the E53. Checked the connector for the thermostat as it threw a code for it and all appeared in good order. Temperatures have been fine when driving. One of these days I'll change out all the cooling system stuff that I have sitting in a box. One of these days... LOL, I'm still rolling around on a URO expansion tank. :wow:

Also changed out the license plate frames as the old ones were getting pretty crusty. Small change, but makes a big difference visually. At least to me. Someday I'll tackle the faded shadowline trim.

Attachment 79786

Attachment 79787

Just an additional reminder that when you have your wheels off....

Dismount your tires and check for the start of *cracks as potholes, speed bumps and/or the Middle East seems to hammer the crap out of them. [emoji2959][emoji2959]


*20" wheels especially [emoji849]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Dismounting tires from wheels might be a little overkill in most circumstances. The white witch sees speeds and roads most of our rides don't have to cope with. ;) I haven't had any problems with wheels, but this prompted my last rear tire purchase on Red.

Attachment 79788

Understated and classy. I went with the M plate since the 4.6 is like the equivalent of an X5 M Sport.

To each his own. However, If BMW thought is was worthy of the M badge they would have labeled it as such.

Back in the day they reserved the ///M for properly ///Mad cars. I love my 4.6iS and I think that buying into all the marketing garbage has made BMW a lot of money but has cheapened the ///M. IMO it should never have been put on any of the trucks. What Motorsport are they competing in?

The M division started in the early 70s to create high performance race worthy vehicles available to the public. As soon as the late 70s BMW was introducing 4 door sedans labeled as M cars. In the last few years they have added models that have an M label that have a 'true' M car in the same series. I question that logic. I think they are diluting the M brand. Doesn't seem like a good idea to have almost an M such as the M440i to muddy up the waters.

I understand their rationale to capitalize on the brand awareness and brand equity of the M label but I to question risking the exclusivity of the M label and the up pricing they command.

I have an X5m and I think it is worthy of the M label. The 0-60 times are right there with other M car models. The handling is amazing. I'm fine with it being an M. It is such a great vehicle I don't even think of it as a truck.

Fair statements, and I wont beat anyone with my opinion. I have very much love for all of the iS/M Xs and BMWs in general. As you said thought they've diluted the brand. On top of that its really painful knowing that though plenty of M cars are owned by enthusiasts, even more are owned by self-indulgent jackoffs that bought it for the little emblem (which signifies a price tag) and not the performance or the pedigree. But I guess that's the case with all high-end "flashy" vehicles. I've repeatedly looked at selling off part off the better part of my stable for an F85 but I just cant bring myself to do it. I love my E53 and E39 too much (those would have to be the first two to go).

Audi and Mercedes are all leveraging their "performance logos" to sell lesser models with add on parts with M, S, or AMG logos. It drives additional sales and revenue margins. This is what drives the market in car sales which is what auto companies do. They are NOT niche car builders who build for select clientele.

Gov mandates for low and ZERO emissions cars will force the auto industry down even more paths that are not profitable but are required to see cars in Countries and States like The USA, CA, and all the other green obsessed political locales.

In the battle of world market Profit is king as it gives you the money for for R&D on emission demands, new models, and keeps everyone employed. :)

You are not wrong. I do have a proper M truck in the E70, and I agree it’s handling and performance qualifies its pedigree.

The 4.6 is a special truck nestled between the V8 class and the M class. Certainly not an M yet.

My love of vanity knows no boundary when it comes to the M badge, I’m afraid.

Where does my 3.0 fit in?

Never, will I fasten an M badge on Ole’Girl. I, along with numerous mechanics and engineers built that vehicle from its stock form.

We, made that performance SAV, perform! :strut:

I agree the 4.6 is very special and I understand based on the other models available those years it could have been labeled an X5M. My guess is that at that time BMW thought the M label on the X5 was blasphemy.

BMW was late to the party. There was already a demographic category embracing high performance SUVs that was being served since at least 2008 by major competitors including Audi and Porsche. If you are late for the party you better bring something great. I think that is likely when they blessed the X5M development.

4.6 would maybe get the “m sport” tag. Definitely not in the same class as twin turbo v8. I’m not a fan of the dilution of the M badge with M-ish hardware

No that wouldn't have worked either. You need an M vehicle to have a subcategory of M Sport.

Also the engine on an M Sport is run of the mill engine of the regular models.

4.6 has the special engine worthy of the IS moniker.

LOL I just talked myself out of excuse for putting the M plate on my 4.6

I finally got a chance to show the exterior of my E53 some love. I performed paint correction, and applied a ceramic coating.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ebbd5b6d70.jpg

This is what Car and Driver thought of the 4.6 at the time of introduction:

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...ake-road-test/

Was it enough better than the ML55 and more importantly the 4.4 to deserve an M badge? If judged only by the 4.4 0-60 times, stopping distance and skid pad I would say yes. That is certainly 20 years later of Monday morning quarterbacking. The fact is BMW didn't choose to do so. Based on the logical considerations of a 2002 decision I think they made the right decision whether it meant the appropriate standards or not.

IMO It'll never be an M car since it was never built to be one. It's a one of a kind SUV of its time. An 02-03 X5 M would have an S62 under the hood or the M62TUB48 version...

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

+1 (S62)

Edit: It would also need to be a manual, and AWD.

Finally repaired, The on again off again fuel vap check engine warning. The issue would show up on really cold or wet days and then go away for 3 months. Pulled off the LR wheel well liner and pulled the pump out to inspect. Found the wiring harness where it splits to send one group to the pump and one group to the speed sensors, cut not chewed. A few splices and presto all golden once again.

On a side note: Here is a YOUTUBE star roasting how bad BMWs are after buying a totally neglected X5 at 150K miles of deferred maintenance to the tune of $10K.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc0o6Cs96Kc

Here I was thinking that all these youtubers talking shit about BMWs would keep the pricing low :dunno:

Strange to think that the "cheapest blah blah in the USA" comes with a laundry list of issues no? :rolleyes:

HA. I think the KEY to this is to NOT THINK ABOUT Maintenance.

My last all in was about 18-20-24 months ago.
I started saying WOW, cannot believe I made it a whole year with ZERO things to touch on it. Lo and behold, noticed a greasy wheel when it got it's weekly wash.....new boots time.

Watched another one earlier this am on what to buy and what not to buy in BMWs. The not to buy were E60's as they are "complicated" (gee who knew?!) and E46 as everyone who purchased one never spent a dime on maintenance, so at 100K and 20 years, they need 5 or more big ticket items repaired. Again what a shock that cheap BMWs are just driven to the end with limited repairs, so when something does goes wrong, they need lots of items repaired. Ever seen a 20 year old Honda w/o 10,000 dents washed and waxed? Neither have I.

Got to love the front outer boots. Seems like they only go in the winter. I spray mine down with 303 a few times a year. So far so good as only one set since new. A placebo effect I am sure...

Granted I don't crawl underneath looking for a problem so I suppose it had a tear in it...

Car was washed as well last week. No observable boot failure but it may have had a impeding tear that was opening...

Ha. Talk about placebo. Between 15-50K or so, I have done 2 bolt drain trans fluid, and 1 pan drop trans fluid. I think around 300 miles or 3000 miles on the 3rd fluid change, the trans went out on me. I can't say for sure if preventative maintenance on the trans paid off or not.

You would think prices would stay low. But everything used is getting a price bump, probably aided by the stimulus money everyone has. :dunno:

Hoover's bagging on BMW is long term. I think it stems from his days as a used car dealer. As mentioned, you buy the cheapest, neglected anything, and you are in for a big repair bill. Especially since, in his case, he pays people to wrench for him.

:wow::wow::wow:

Don't really go the used route but when I did a quick lookup scan to see what was out there - kinda was looking at the #s and was scratching my head on what the market rate was - across the board on used pricing

Installed adjustable rear control arms. When I put the BC coilovers on and lowered my truck 2" they couldn't get the camber into spec on the rear. Kinda expected that would be the case. So I installed the adjustables. Just have to get it to the alignment shop now.

Gummi Pfleged the lower flat trim and roof rails.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...155a694354.jpg

Purple....GP is meant for door seals.

1Z (eiszett) makes great products. I use the Cockpit, GP and others in my routine.

Yes I know but it works great on restoring flat black trim as well. I used it on my e38 exterior door pillars and rubber trim and really anything flat black that has turned grayish as well with great results. It restores and depends the flat black finish nicely.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I don't remember what 303 product is but the one I use is ATP AT-205. It keeps rubber rubbery. It definitely has an effect and prob no reason to do more than 2x a year on boots.

https://www.303products.com.au/image...e-bay-copy.jpg

https://www.303products.com.au/produ...otectant-30382

Purplecty, thanks for the tip! Been looking for something to brighten the dull exterior black trims of my beloved 1997 E39.

No problem! I got it on amazon

Thanks that looks like good stuff but not very long lasting. I'll definitely stuck with at-205 for boots and inside engine/power steering.

I think OB swears by 303 and his results speak for themselves!! :thumbup:

But I guess OB is more "detail oriented" than some of the rest of us. ;)

It's fantastic sounding for cleaning and UV protecting. 205 is a completely different beast it changes the rubber to keep it soft. I wouldn't consider using in a visible location it will almost certainly cause horrible change in appearance.

I treated the new to me axle when I installed it a couple months ago and will follow up wherever I have the wheel off to see if the rubber is staying soft.

:iagree: I use ATP AT-205 also - I buy it in from Amazon (as you can't buy it locally here in NZ) - I always have a bottle on hand (as well as various levels of it running around in my vehicles fluids - power steering mainly). :thumbup:

I used recently to top of the chs in my client's 2008 328xi. Either use $3 worth of at-205 or buy a $30 quart of CHS. Not a tough call.

Took the day off yesterday to finish the guide job, closed up the engine and while reinstalling the VANOS solenoids, snapped the threaded collar off the 1-4 distribution block because I'm an idiot and decided to just go by feel instead of using one of the three torque wrenches that were laying less than 3 feet from me. So opening her back up again tomorrow when the new piece comes.

Popped off the A-pillar trim to put the sunroof drains back in where they should be....goddamgermanengineering :rolleyes::banghead:

Seems like this might have to be a regular maintenace item at this rate.

Oil service time - and I also repalced the air and the fuel filters.

While I love my 3.0d (M57TU), changing the air and fuel filters is always a frustratiing exercise. The amount of tupperware that you have to remove to change the air filter is utter maddnes....

https://i.ibb.co/PNTVkCf/20210313-193921.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/sbdQHDR/20210313-193952.jpg

..goddamgermanengineering :rolleyes: :banghead:

https://i.ibb.co/J58LKvJ/20210313-202725.jpg

The fuel filter is nearly as bad, but you're working on your back! While I was in there I removed the OEM worm-drive hose clips on the fuel lines, as they were looking a bit tatty (the lines, not the clips) - replaced them with the correct fuel-hose clamps.

LCM IV Retrofit
Out with the old!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...12b6094cfe.jpg
In with the new!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...011d82c689.jpg

Engine bay looks fantastic Wayne. :thumbup:

I really should do this so I can have inner high beams along with Xenon high beams.

It's over a year since I last cleaned it... :rolleyes:

It kinda looks after itself... :D

Mine gets dusty in a few months. It really is time for another OB cleaning. :D

what else is needed? is it just a swap or is programing needed?

Programming is needed. You have to change the VIN in the LCM to rid of the tamper dot and program the ZCS of your car to the LCM.

Swapped out the back hatch struts and added those little springs so that the hatch opens by itself when unlocked.

Before:
https://i.postimg.cc/BX4sYGPB/IMG-2078.jpg

After:
https://i.postimg.cc/ppCv31Db/IMG-2080.jpg

Nice. The red goes with white. Mine was green, didn't go well with the blue paint at all.

Took the 4.6 Out of the garage over the weekend for the first nice dry day and no snow to pass emissions.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7d33d33ad1.jpg

Beautiful! :thumbup:

:iagree: :thumbup:

Thanks! I try! Not as beautiful as yours though!

Do you have any pictures of the progress?

installed my bargain towbar, just waiting on a module for it

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...23b8c577_h.jpgUntitled by troy, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2f566c5f_h.jpgUntitled by troy, on Flickr

also because I haven't actually posted on here since joining, hi I'm Troy. this is my "cheap" x5 I bought with warped heads and blown shocks. its one of 3 bmws that own me

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b02bf97d_h.jpgUntitled by troy, on Flickr

Cool looking truck Troy. I like the is flares even without the is bumper add ons. Different. :thumbup:

1. Replaced front left axle.
2. Replaced front left suspension arms & lower ball joint
3. Replaced bank 1 VANOS distribution piece that I broke last week
4. Retimed the engine and sealed it back up
5. Ordered new bosch+4 plugs because at this point why the hell not
6. Reinstalled condenser and pusher fan
7. Installed the Griptech SC pulley hub.

Can't wait to get her back on the road

Interesting exhausts on your 4.4i, Troy. They look to be turned down like the 3.0d exhausts, and not coming out through the rear bumper.

Custom mufflers?

cheers! the flares im assuming were added by the dealer. they're reasonably well fitted but I did notice chunks cut out of the rear bumper to be able to slide the clips onto them, which Id say isn't how bmw would do it at the factory.

yeh, I didn't like how sedate the exhaust was, v8 has to sound like one! (and I was kinda jealous of some of the srt jeeps getting around town!)

I cut the stock mufflers off and v-band'ed them, before having a couple bits of 2.5" pipe bent, then I made hangers and cut them to suit. popped the diesel covers on and its nice and neat.

has a nice note and is adequately obnoxious when I really get on it. if the local constabulary isn't a fan, I can bolt the stock mufflers back on.

dicided to open the old beastie up a bit on the highway, but at 220kph it appears the engine cover underneath decided to come loose... bit of a scary moment :)

in the shop today for maintanance, looks like one airbag in the rear is leaking a bit so will have those replaced.

also took off the module with the licence plate lights and the trunk switch. bulbs are good, wires are good, but one light doesn't work... has anyone repaired that circuis board in there or is it better to find a replacement?

Fitted my new wheels https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b58952c5b3.jpg

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Yeah more parts!!

Just waiting till the weekend [emoji1696] maybe [emoji28]

113.95 USD unless my wife is reading this, then the actual cost was 4.58 USD https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ed72331e6a.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

shiny! are those 22"? OZ - much lighter than stock?

Yeah 22", they have OZ center caps but they're actually Kahn RS-C wheels, I couldn't get Kahn center caps for them.

They were black originally, I refurb'd them myself.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ddc9a64493.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a350965486.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...34675855f1.jpg

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

When I read Kahn I all of a sudden felt rage. However those are actually not too bad, good job on the refurb.

Thanks, why the rage with Kahn?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Those are great, anybody know if we can get these in the UK?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

From star trek. William Shatner. "Kaaaaaaaahhhhhnnnnnn!"

That was my guess


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

And Zachary Quinto had a decent rendition of it as well. I did think of the Star Trek reference after I posted but initially it was because of Supercar Megabuild, a Nat Geo show. In one of the seasons Afzal Kahn was the main "boss guy" and was portrayed as a bit of a cock (possibly for the show, he may very well be a nice guy in real life) and all of his designs that they flashed were god-awful (like early 2000s The Fast and the Furious Honda civic body kits horrible) plus the shots they had from inside the Kahn shop showed them working with some absolutely abhorrent low quality fiberglass garbage that they were sticking onto all these cars. So that was the enraging part. Afterwards I did go check out the Kahn Designs website and it looks like his designs have at least aligned with the times, can't speak to quality.

Your tires actually say 'MuchoMacho' ??

They sure do! I was on a budget when buying tires and refinishing my wheels and they have been excellent!

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Nothing wrong with being on a budget, but that made me laugh. No offense meant purplecty, just made me chuckle that a tire manufacturer would put that on a tire.

I agree and was torn between the Cosmo MuchoMacho and Achilles desert hawks. The desert hawks sounds better but I preferred the thread pattern of the Cosmo. The best part is they were like $220 for 2 315 35 20 at the time of purchase and have performed excellent. A lot of good x5 reviews on them lead me to these as well...

Who's in for a MuchoMacho tires group buy?

Started Red up after she's been outside under her car cover for 3 weeks so I could move her further under the car port (incoming storm so wanted to get the F15 under as much as possible too). She fired right up. So nice to no longer have a battery drain on the electrical system. Soooooo nice.

:bmw:

They're pretty sweet :thumbup: I have red-eyed chrome skulls from ACE for valve caps anyway :D:D:D

I'm glad you're happy with them - I was persuaded to use Altenzo rears once and my wallet told me "yes", but they were horrible. Soon went back to Michelins. I need to read up more!!

Got done swapping my brake hoses and talk about being able to tell which side faces the sun daily....[emoji2959]

Anyway...

Holy hell [emoji2962][emoji2962][emoji2962] 3 years!!! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...35da9a1ac2.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I think CW has had enough of you making fun of him and his aero affections! :dunno: ;)

LoL... [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

I am glad that didn’t fail on you brotha! [emoji106]

Quite the contrary. I wear the emotional scars as a badge of honor. Like getting towel snapped in the locker room after a game. :rofl:

But seriously... Good catch on that brake line. Your flinstone stomps could put that out of commission in a hurry.

Wow. Looks like braided stainless lines from ECS would be worth it.

I got plenty of exercise changing those lines, mostly from shaking my head at the condition of them. [emoji28]

I will soon be driving an X5 that costs as much as one from BaT (sand edition) worrying that the wife will find receipts...[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

I painted the plastic bits: Silver Bullet's original purchaser didn't garage her. I knew that going in, but didn't realize how much the trim damage would bug me. The paint on metal is all fine, but on the plastic the clearcoat was missing from most top surfaces.

The question was how far to sand? Do you just take out the edges and leave as much primer and base coat as possible? Or do you take everything down to black plastic? I compromised and I'd say the results are 8/10. Probably good enough for a 15 year old car, but not quite satisfying to me. Next time I would take it all down to black.

For reference we're talking about the outside door handles, the top tailgate trim and the mirrors. (The mirrors on old Glory are painted and still going strong at 21 years, but the other items were matte black on base models back then, a bit of Mother's Back to Black still does wonders).

I started to remove the right front axle so I could change a leaking axle seal. Found out the hack I had work on it before when I was in a time jam put a 40mm axle nut on. Of course I don't have a 40mm socket. Of course I have tp order a one. :banghead:

Oh I've definitely had my share of this situation!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

And I was worried about the condition of my original 20 yr old lines as I twist the crap out of them while changing brakes/axles falls expecting them to snap in half. I have an application in for SBA grant and steel brake hoses are high on the list

I always had the same concerns. When the lines started showing their age and I was seeing cracks, but no leaks, I bit the bullet and bought the stainless lines. A little more brake feel is an added bonus.

Fresh rubber, guys...

It's the wheels... [emoji3590][emoji3590][emoji3590][emoji3590]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...874dac5596.jpg

Sent from my BBF100-6 using Tapatalk

Needed a passenger wiper arm for my 535. Dealer wanted $190+tax; Pic N Save in Hamilton had one for $5. Spotted a rather sad 2004 Imola 4.8, sooooo, my $5 trip turned into a $180 one.
- fender flares
- running boards
- mirror bases
- driver seat control module
- rear seat reclining motors, relays and switches
- rear cup holder assembly (mine got killed by a 45# kettlebell that wasn't secured....)

Didn't need all those parts, but when you see them, you snag them. I went to two yards - neither had any with an OEM hitch. Although I already have, if I ever see one, I'll snag it for someone on here.

Cheers!

Awesome score.

Our yards here wouldn't have an E53, let alone a 4.8is, just sitting in the "you pull it" areas. They are willing to put in the extra work to make more $$$ selling them on Ebay I guess. :( Only thing you'll see there are e34's, e36's, and an odd e46. Though, admittedly, I haven't been in a long time. It began to be a waste of time going once I sold my e30's.

The fun of "pick and pull" has certainly run it's course with the internet age. Oh do I miss the cover charge to get in tho....aka, "pocket treasure" fee.

Pulled off the cover, Fired it up, inflated the tires, warmed it up, and took her out on a 20 mile run before the nuts come out to play bumper cars. Back in, wiped down, and recovered. Clean looking rotors now.

Send the rest over here, man.... :rofl::rofl:

The entry fee covered all the QuadraJet metering rods and jets that went home with me.:D

4.8
 

It had your colour combo with the headliner. Headliner might have been salvageable, but the leather seats were in rough shape. Sad to see.

I did the same. Put gas in it too. First time since September 9, 2020. Then drive it to the in laws to meet up with the fam for Easter lunch. It's safely tucked away back under the cover now after a wipe down.

I was going to head out there Saturday but my plans changed last minute.

On my short list was the seat module also

Question:

Do the rear seat motors work with the regular seats or do you already have the power rear seats?

The motor assembly basically moves the attachment point of the folding rear seats. I need to modify the trim panels to allow for that range now, but there were plastic covers to cover that. Same for the switches (there are two in the c-pillars and two at the rear pillars). These also have to be cut into the panels, but the wiring in my 04 is all there. Other than that, I don't think the seats themselves are anything different.

Interesting.

Were the trim panels not worth grabbing or not available?

Here's everything (except wiring) associated with the reclining rear seats. I had a set for sale, guess I still do, a long time ago. Shipping this stuff sucks though so I just have it here in storage in case I ever get an X5 not equipped with it. Or I need a replacement part for Red.

https://i.postimg.cc/HxDQ63MY/20181115-000438.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Trailer...wAAOSwi3Bf7OyN


I noticed today that someone is making reproduction towing harnesses for E53s. Just thought I would put that out there in case someone wants it. I never could find a harness when I was getting my X5 sorted out for towing, which is why I never went with the OEM towing module. I may think about upgrading this summer myself.

Well, my first failure in about a year. Took Mrs. Boost to a baby shower on Saturday and coming home I see the glowing 4X4 light front and center in the display. Only the the 4X4 light.

Spent an hour on Easter Sunday diagnosing the issue. Looks like my SAS has headed South after 192,000 miles. :banghead:

Plugged in my Foxwell, cleared the code and noticed the SAS was reading but the error showing more than 90 degrees offset in the value. Sure enough, reading -360 degrees. Recalibrated it and worked fine for about the first turn, shining 4X4 light laughing at me.

Checked all the other shining light culprits like ABS module, wheel speeds, yaw sensor, transfer case gear, all good.

Recalibrated again and watched the SAS values, fine turning to the right and then turning back to 0 flipped the light again. Checked the value and -1044 degrees.

Ordered the new Genuine BMW SAS from the stealer (same price as ECS Tuning of $293) and will replace tomorrow.

Strange, I took it out today to run a quick errand expecting it to throw the code but it kept quiet like it knew I was about to rip the left dash trim and steering column out. :rofl:

My sas has given me an error twice but a quick reset has brought it back to life each time. I'm sure my sensor brushes are worn to nubs.

I would be very interested to know if the foxwell will sync the new unit.

I swapped an abs module out and back in once and got an error relaterd to SAS eg un paired and was able to fix with foxwell. Before I replace my SAS I would love to know if I can program the new one with foxwell.

The rear pillars had been ripped out and one had half missing. The c-pillars were wrong colour. I took pictures of the pieces so I knew where to cut the holes for the switches. For the side panels where the latch/motor goes, the plastic trim cover piece is the cutout template so not worried there. One was busted so I may snag a new one. I could only find 3 switches too (and I looked through every nook to see where it got tossed - no luck).

I'm not sure if the Foxwell can place the VIN in the SAS, at least I haven't seen any menus for assigning VIN in any part.

I used my BMW Scanner 1.4 to read and copy the existing LEW EEPROM .bin file and will write to the new SAS after installed.

Mine started out intermittent when it went too. Then constant. Replaced it and calibrated and all good. It's a PITA job. Be sure to put tape on the wheel and dash to remind yourself of proper alignment when reconnecting. I didn't, inadvertently moved the wheel before I put it back together and had to take it apart and do it again. :banghead:

Same thing happened to me. :banghead:!ouch:

This is funny as mine has been going on and off and sure enough, its the SAS too. Just over 200K on an 04.... I see a trend here

anyone used a non OEM SAS?

FCP Euro is $335 vs $60 on ebay or someplace inbetween

I normally buy through FCP but.... FRACK
that is like 5+ ebay parts at that price and its not THAT bad of a job.

I used non-oem. It was about $120 if I remember right. I've got about 100,000 miles on it and it's still working fine.

That's some good feedback.

Rolled the dice, $59 shipped US seller and a 2yr warranty, not that the seller will be around in 2yrs but....

replacing it is easy enough so if I get 2-3yrs out of it I wont care.

I also have a clunk in the front end now, well last few months. Today was the first warm enough day to put it in the air to take a close look. Cant find anything. I replaced everything with good stuff about 75,000 miles of Michigan roads so in Cali miles that is like 300,000 :rofl:
Guess its just got to get worse before I can find it, its not bad, mostly into the driveway. I am sure by late summer I will find it, and its not that bad.
Time to go get the Z4 and M3 out of storage anyway

Try flexing the thrust arm by hand and/or use a pry bar on it at the bushing. That is the most likely place for a front end clunk.

That was my first thought actually.... nope and tried everything loaded while on the ground and in the air.... when I did them they got the MEYLE HD bushings and still look great. It is not bad enough to start unbolting things yet.

Speed bump test..

Clunk going over on compression is usually the long control arm, on extension w/air time (not airborne!!) it's the the short control arm.

Approach speed bump square and just fast enough to have car drop off the backside

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

If the sound is more of a rapid tap vs. Clunk and it happens while you’re driving over offsets in the road like expansion joints that usually means the swaybar links.

When you cannot find the clunk anywhere it is usually the bearing at the top of the strut tower.

And there was one guy I’ve ever heard of where the clunk was a broken coil spring so if you have coil springs and not air you can look into that too

Nice. I used an SAS rebuild kit and it was 90% the cost of that part. But I didn't have to program it. :rolleyes: Woopee

Oldest has his license now and the X hasn't been home much. He brought it home with a dead alternator. It has a 2yr warranty on it and it was done April 22, 2019. Fingers crossed - I don't usually get to cash in on warranties with this money pit :)

The main reason for the rebuilt solution. No real programming just recalibrate

Since it looks like the rebuild is just the wipers/contacts, wonder if I can just steal that part out of my new non oem replacement. Probably look to see how the paths look on the mating part and make a call once I get it out.
I can reprogram easy enough so either way works

Well, the alternator was covered under warranty (yay!). The centre muffler/resonator has some holes starting to let the exhaust out too early.

Off chance anyone have a centre resonator you replaced on your 4.8 and in Southern Ontario? If not I'll have to start sourcing aftermarket replacements for a weld in.