If engine mounts are worn the engine can move so much that edges of the fan blades can touch fan shroud. If this happens the blades can snap. All it takes is loosing one blade and the imbalance can destroy the rest.

That is also why the wheel to hub interface along with the wheel bolts get a nice coat of antiseize any time they come apart. And NO it does not cause wheel bolts to back off and loose torque :banghead:

It wasn't really that bad. On the DRA spacers, I just used some 45mm lugs I have to put into the wheel bolt holes and once the bottom out against the rotor, it pulls the spacer right off.

I did wire wheel the spacers and hub to clean them back up and used some antiseize before reassembly. :thumbup:

The problrm isn't that there bolts will come loose, lubricating the thrrads multiplies the effective torque by about 1.33 so torquing to 100 ft·lb lubricated is similar to 133 ft·lb dry. Thus, the proper torque for X5 with lubricated lugs would be about 75 ft·lb. (which would just feel wrong).


With regular maintenance where a wheel comes off more than annually, I see no reason to put antiseize on the lugs. The only time I had problems taking off a lug is when the cone welded itself to the hub. That can't happen with floating cone lugs (well the cone still could weld to a wheel but it won't affect removal).

Hub, however, absolutely! I wire wheel and antisieze the hub every time I remove a wheel. I have had to resort to loosen the lugs and drive a car around to break a hub loose in the past.

I use the same method to pull the hub out of the front bearings. (just make sure to bevel the edge of the bolt so it won't mushroom and make it impossible to remove from the hub after)

I was very mindful of that. I just turned each 45mm lug (multi individualized 14mm puller :rofl:) 45 degress at a time, constantly monitoring the torque and process. Pulled them right off. :thumbup:

Awesome.

You had the benefit of having more lugs and maybe 1/10th or 1/20th the force to remove. When I did my first front bearing the bolts mushroomed pretty bad and I had to use angle grinder to cone the ends before I could remove the bolts from the hub. I'm curious how much force it takes to pull the bearing apart. It's not insignificant based on mushriming hardened bolts and bending the hardened steel plates I used between hub and knuckle.

The last one I did I used a slide hammer but I only did that because I was also about to replace the ball joints attached to the knuckle. I don't like to hammer on the knuckle.

Which I don't have a problem with for the rear axle with the caveat of REMOVE the abs sensor. I killed the abs sensor with the slide hammer impacts. It "sorta worked" but threw errors regularly after the bearing job. (to be fair it's also possible the new bearing just didn't pair nice with the old sensor)

When I did my FWB a few weeks ago, I pulled the entire carrier off and planned to press the hub off on my press. It just became too awkward trying to come up with the right press adapters to remove the hub from the bearing/carrier so I put it back on the ground and used a socket with extension and 3 sharp hits on the backside with a 4lb mini sledge and it was off.

That's a tried and true method. Since I have to remove the CV anyhow I may try that in place. if I can figure out a good method to hold the knukle from moving too much (like a 10# sledge) I may try that first. I can skip the slide hammer rental.

Also I'm working on some home brew press ideas to share with xo. I found some plumbing parts that may work for pressing the bearing in/out. I suppose out/in mk ore logical.

I work for a major auto manufacturer and have to have torque testing in our lab for every bolted joint. I have had this talk with the lab in depth but here is the short of it

Let me ask you this, what happens to the wheel bolt and the hub over time? Corrosion.
What condition is the fastener and hub in when it is tested to failure and then the correct torque calculated? NEW and with manufacturing/packaging oils still on them.
So with corrosion on the bolt/hub you are actually torquing to a lower value than what is spec'd as the corrosion is causing a lot more friction than when new.

I'm quite sure the lug tightening torque is engineered to be for "after several cycles".

Since dry torque spec on 14-1.5 is about 150 ft·lb, they aren't anywhere near the yield strength. At 100 ft·lb probably 11-12,000 # per bolt or 55-60,000# of preload on the wheel. They will be quite well attached even if half the spec torque is used.

What I read is that the stretch of the bolt and "nut" changes the load on the threads on subsequent tightening. In one study I read, they tightened dry 1/2-13 bolts to clamping force of 5T. And it took like 90,110,120 ft·lb to achieve the clamping force desired.

They didn't do multiple tightening lubricated but I'd be willing to bet there is less change per cycle.

There is nearly zero corrosion on my 19 year old lugs. Also, with the spinning cones I'm sure that affects the change per cycle in a good way.

Lubricated spec on 14-1.5 is 112 ft·lb equivalent of 149 ft·lb dry. So if tighten to 100 lubricated that's closer to 133 dry and 14500*5=72500 pounds of preload. I wouldn't tighten that tight. (it's still reasonably within spec on the bolt so it's not going to damage the threads).

Installed new motor mounts, new front flex disk, new poly anti-sway bar bushings, new oil level sensor, oil and filter change and air filter change.

Got the driver's side motor mount out without too much trouble. Had to remove the mounting arm from the passenger side to get that mount out.

New mounts got rid of the vibration, but it didn't get rid of a vibration "noise" that went along with the vibration I was getting. Only when idling when in gear. Going to have to do some more sleuthing with a stethoscope to see if I can pin point what it is. It's starting to drive me crazy. Just glad I got most of it with the new mounts.

What vibration are you fighting here?

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At this point its no longer a vibration. It's the sound/noise of a vibration. It used to coincide with a vibration. Only hear it at idle while in gear. It idles with no excessive vibration or noise while in park or neutral. Strange.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

In wife's case it was a stone on the stiffening plate.

I had some nuisance vibration in gear at idle and I used to put my car in neutral to stop it. Now I just set my idle up 30-40 RPM and it idles smooth as a Tesla.

I was trying to figure out a way to do this from the outside. Think of a couple rods attached to the lug holes, maybe 2' long with a bar between them.

Attach to the lug holes and swing a BFH away from the hub and hit the cross bar.

I think with the wheel turned and maybe 40-60# of tungsten hanging on the carrier to absorb shock I would have enough room to swing a BFH inside and knock that hub right out.

I had considered making a jig that mounts to the brake caliper mounts but it just seems too risky. Maybe if I source a replacement just in case knukle.

Nothing on the stiffening plate. Had it off to change the mounts and oil level sensor. It was dirty and oily as hell with bits of plastic and stuff on there, but nothing that would make noise. Completely cleaned the plate off before reinstall. Nothing on the plate. I raised my idle speed already too. It helped make it not as bad, but its still there.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Make an audio recording. Also use this app:

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/vibrat...o/id1089589547

It will isolate the exact frequency of the sound which can help determine the source. It reports the g-force the phone experiences and by moving the phone around to different places you can pinpoint the source.

Last year somebody traced a similar sound to the thrust bushing bolt bring loose and another traced it to the bearing at the top of the strut tower.

Ahhh ok, that's a good point. The new radiator is in already, the fan, shroud and viscous clutch are ordered and will be installed soon. I did check the viscous clutch and it was definitely not easy to turn, I drove the car without the fan in place a few times now and with the cold start there's no 'fan trying to lift off' sound any more. So I suspect a failed clutch, but I'll have the mechanic check the motor mounts when he puts the bits in!

In all my BMW work, I have never encountered a bad coil pack...but I just did.

'05 X5 3.0 6 cyl -125k miles, I did a head gasket on it last September.

Yesterday on a cold start - 2nd of the day - It immediately started running rough and threw a CEL. I quickly stopped and read/reset codes. Codes pointed to a mis-fire in cylinder 2. I started again and immediately had the misfire again. Drove it home 3 miles on 5 cylinders.

This morning, I pulled coils and spark plugs, cleaned them, and switched 1&2 coils. The misfire moved to #1 cylinder..Bingo! I grabbed a similar coil out of my e39, installed it and misfire went away. I checked date codes on the orig X5 coils and they are from 2005, so likely original to the car. I have ordered replacements. I also did a quick, cold compression test on cylinder #2 to rule out a damaged valve or piston and it was okay at 150psi.

I probably have 3,500 miles on it since the head gasket, and it has been running great. But the mind can't help but fear the worse when I get a mis-fire.

Good info, thanks. I'm still on all my original coils at 192k miles on my 2001 3.0i.

When I did the compression test on mine before doing the head gasket job, I got up around 190 psi on all cylinders. Lowest was 185. Did you not have the gas pedal floored during the cranking?

I would swap out your coils, or at least carry a spare before a long trip.

As for the compression test, I did not pull the fuel pump fuse (I did pull all coils) and did not have throttle wide open. I was only testing cylinder 2 and was looking for a zero reading. I have seen burnt pistons and failed valves recently. my tester is also a little suspect.

To do it right, I would prefer to pull fuel relay fuse, do it warm, and do them all at once with throttle open. I would be more concerned with consistent readings, but would expect something closer to 190 across the board.

All sounds good. :thumbup:

Winter is finished here and today was 30c. On the way home 30km my temperature showed 100c and since this is way outside the normal for my X I decided to spray my radiator clean of the winter dust....


I think I found the issue [emoji848][emoji2959]

I'm just glad the body fell out of the tank top [emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e93a04b137.jpg

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lmfao now that's epic ^

I thought that was one of the plastic bags. Was that an actual shirt?


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Yeah an actual freaking shirt.... Not saying that it's like garbage all over the place, but there's GARBAGE ALL OVER THE PLACE [emoji849][emoji849][emoji90][emoji90][emoji90]

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I think I may have found it. I'm still testing, but I think it is the power steering pump. When its not in gear the idle is high enough that I don't get the noise. In gear I get it. I recently notice while sitting at a light when I turned my wheel the noise increased. When I centered the wheel the noise decreased, but didn't go away. I'm going to play with it some more, but I think that's it. At $200 for a rebuilt replacement I don't want to just throw a part at it.

Wife's ps pump gets noisy when it's cold out and also seems to have developed a leak so I get to root out that problem soon.

Is your fluid low that will definitely increase the noise.

Fluid is good. First thing I checked. And it is definitely noisier in the morning when cold.

At least you were monitoring your temps. Things could have gone south (or north for your temps ;)) in a hurry.

Suggestion, stop checking the outpost while driving. You might have seen the woman (man?) you hit and gotten to add a notch to your belt. :D

I swear I wasn't checking outpost.

I may have been eating a BLT....[emoji16][emoji1787]

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Replaced the OFHG today with the BavAuto Viton seal along with the vanos feed line with new hydraulic bolts and crush washers, oil pressure switch and oil temp switch chasing a small oil leak. It looked pretty oily on top of the power steering pump and in the waffles of the block. I'm not sure if this will solve it but if it still leaks, it will be the dreaded M54 oil pan gasket. At least this is done and can be eliminated as the possible origin of the leak below.

Fitted the reversing camera and changed the glow plug controller.


God that plug was a pain to get off the controller! Annoyingly I’ve got 4 glow plugs to change now I know the controller is working! And I think I need a new Thermostat as the car isn’t reaching operating temperature. So I’ll sort that when I do the plugs.

That’s next weekends job! Then I’ll be fault code free.......

@Overboost how long did it take to change that oil filter housing gasket I am about to do two of those in so I kind a like to have a job and how long it’s gonna take


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In short Andrew, only about 2-3 hours taking your time and cleaning as you go. Pretty easy. :thumbup:

M54 OFHG Replacement

• Remove center air intake housing
• Remove air filter housing complete with MAF and upper intake hose
• Remove engine fan with viscous clutch assembly with fan housing together
• Disconnect power to the alternator at the front charging/jump lug (thanks for the tip Andrew)
• Remove serpentine belt
• Loosen oil filter cap to drain oil from housing back into the engine
• Remove lower plastic splash shield
• Remove alternator and upper serpentine belt idler pulley
• Remove power steering pump (2 bolts in front, 1 in rear from bottom)
• Disconnect wiring connections from oil pressure and oil temperature sensors
• Disconnect the vanos supply hose from vanos
• Remove 6 bolts holding the OFH to the engine (use a box lid to place the different length M8 bolts so you know where they came out)
• Remove the OFH (serpentine belt tensioner comes off with it)
• Clean and inspect seal and groove
• Replace OFHG, oil pressure and oil temperature sensors, and vanos hose (not required but advised while it is apart)
• Clean engine waffle area
• Reassemble in reverse order

All in all it took about 2 hours to have everything back in place running and another hour checking for leaks, reinstalling the lower splash shield and cleaning and putting away the tools :thumbup:

+1 on the glow plug controller connectors - total PITA to get off!!

I changed all six glow plugs and the controller in one go - less screwing arond, since it seems most owners end up where you are - going in there twice.

Hint: Do the plugs on a warm engine. From operating temp, start removing the tupperware etc. By the time you get at the plugs, it's about the right temp. Hit them with some penetrating oil, give them about 10 minutes and then use a torque wrench set to no more than about 10ft.lbs higher than the torque setting used to install them. Hopefully, they come out easliy. :thumbup:

Yeh I managed to get the controller out without touching the manifold. Wasn’t as hard as some other BMWs it seems. These X5s have so much space everywhere compared to the Saloon/Touring models!! So I don’t feel too bad! Got a whole set of 6 on order now so I’ll do all of them when I do them. Got the thermostat and a gasket set too.

I’ll do the thermostat and then take it for a drive and check it comes up to temp alright and then start on the plugs.

Defiantly going to be gentle with them, they shear off just looking at them!! At least there is no DPF to not regen when the glow plugs are broken and I live in Cornwall so it barley gets down to freezing.

I’m hoping that the last guy in there used a Tq wrench!

Glow plugs are used for more than just cold starts - they are part of the emission control systems etc. and are activated at other times too...

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eda4ac4b4a.jpg

Removed my starter. Didn't have time to put the new one back in yet. I will make an awr-fix DIY that will surely help others save hours and skin from knuckles. I wasted two hours trying to undo the gorilla tightened main power bolt from below before I went with my instincts and pulled the intake boot and DISA and was able to use my impact wrench to knock that sucker off in 2 seconds.

Lots of wobble extensions involved in this job.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ba1f9d3ff6.jpg

Fingers crossed for you. :thumbup: All 6 came out without drama on the wife's E70 and added a smear of copper grease to avoid issue in the future should the need arise. I had to employ the wife to get that damn controller plug off and on though, I was about to rip all the wiring out from frustration. Pulling the coolant pipe would have made it much easier, but didn't want to have to mess with the cooling system again (did WP, thermostat, and hoses not that long ago).

I wish we got an m57 powered e53 over here. I bet it's a great engine in this chassis.

My OEM hitch turned into a torque wrench calibration station!

Attachment 77391

I have wanted a large torque wrench for a while for torquing the front axle nuts on BMW's, but couldn't justify one for basically one application. However, we just got a bigger travel trailer requiring an Equal-i-zer® weight distributing hitch. The ball needs torqued to 420 ft. lbs. and the head is torqued to the shank at 320 ft. lbs resulting in my justification to buy a big, honkin' 3/4" drive 100-600 ft. lbs. torque wrench. I feel so MANLY walking around with that thing!

Since I bought an older, used wrench on Ebay, it was the perfect time to set up a calibration station to set the "new" wrench along with my older 1/2" and 3/8" drive wrenches. Worked super slick, and interestingly, my 50ish y.o. Snap-On dial-type wrenches were still pretty close. In fact, my 1/2" drive didn't need any adjustment at all.

AM.

Installed the correct side view mirrors after finding out the PO didn't take the time to find out how to pull the mirror off and broke the mounting tabs off of the assembly then glued it on with god knows what! At least it didn't stick to the plastic. Then found the heated/auto dim mirrors at the local pick and pull! 35$!
Fixed the erratic reverse dip while I was changing the mirrors.

Switched out to my non winter wheels/tires, and changed my front wheelwell splash shields that were chewed up from neglecting to install the front belly-pan. I left the 20mm spacers on the rears with the stock 168s and it looks pretty good. no rubbing.

headlight restoration completed on my E53 this past weekend, last time it was done was 2 years ago, looks great now and when I took it to my shop to get an oil change my mechanic commented how clean the engine bay was too lol

Finally was forced to fix driver door window regulator band-aid fix that I did several years ago after the window failed to rise after I closed the door with the window down. The window rattle when the door closed was a big clue.

Replaced the rearmost attachment slider and inserted the proper clip and hardware that I already had on hand.

Thankfully, it happened locally and not during my recent 1200mile trip from Wisconsin to Texas.

Also had to deal with the secondary fuel level float in the driver side fuel tank side. Fuel Gauge was hanging up at about 1/2 tank and not going down (almost ran out of gas until I realized my range couldn't possibly be over 500 miles. So I started by pulling the passenger side with the fuel pump (DUH) and checked resistance and confirmed that it was not the bad actor. Finally remembered there was another float in the jet pump side........Opened that up and exercised the float. Seems OK now but will watch for it to go lower than 10 gallons that I have in it now.

I have a DIY how to do a proper refurbish of the float resistance. You should used the hidden menu reset after working on the gauge. I think it's item 21

Thanks Andrew

I'll check out the hidden menu. Both the gauge and iBus app are showing fuel being consumed. Today I went from 10 gallons to 7 gallons in the iBus app.

Mike

Also attempted DIY headlight restoration with proper sanding followed by minwax/mineral spirits cocktail. Not bad for first time. May sand a little deeper next time.

Before and after....

complete cooling system rebuild, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, new DISA valve, and new fuel filter. this is my 6th E53 and I think ill keep this one for a while. a 7/03 production sienna red over tan with 139,000 miles and the leather bottoms still feel like new and are not hard and dried out like most E53's i see.

Hidden 6 shows the liters in each side. Here are the basics to know if the senders are working properly;

When the left gets below about 25L, the right should stay at 1.4L until the left reaches zero.

If the right ever gets down to 1.0, refuel immediately regardless of left fuel reading.

Typical scenarios:

Left side has 17L and right starts dropping. This usuaky means the siphon jet is not working. This is the classic tm ran out of gas at 1/4 tank problrm. You actually do have 1/4 tank you just can't use it.

You can get very similar symptoms when the left sender unit is reading high. The main difference is that the level can be anything and the DTE will get stuck (when it happened to me my gauge read about 1/3 of a tank).

When you suspect a fuel system problem watch test six.

The right side should stop dropping when left is 25-27L and if you see the right slowly drip from 1.4 to 1.0, that's a sign the siphon jet is not working, but of the right side drops quicky from 1.4, the left sender is more likely the fault.

If you fill the tank and it shows 2/3 of a tank that usualky means that the left sender is reporting high (seems illogical: why if it reads high does the gauge read low: has to do with how it shows the average over time) this is why is important to reset with 21 if you work on the fuel senders.

Looks fantastic Mouse :thumbup:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58f3950131.jpg

Installed new starter. I still have to put my engine back together (I removed the intake ductwork and DISA valve to make room to work).

Also, in the end I disconnected both B+ and alternator cables so I could move the starter over fast enough to reach the nuts on the end of the solinoid.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f8f90c5bf.jpg

Here is a pic showing how I got to the nuts using a long extension and a swivel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...11a6f75f00.jpg

There is a ton of space next to the starter, but it's cut in half by the dipstick tube. Turned out to be about 10x as easy once I removed the tube!

well done sir looks amazing :cool: isn't it a satisfying feeling when it's all clean and shiny? haha

Nice work! Brand new shiny starter, should outlive the X now. :thumbup:

But I have to ask, what's with the toilet paper roll? :dunno:

That's an easy one....

Parts for the e53, that shit is expensive...!![emoji1787]

But seriously TP rolls are cheap and moldable supports just like cigarette butts are the perfect plug for transmission lines!!

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Looks great man. Next time we'll open them up and install some proper halos. ;)

Good eye. It's actually paper towel roll and is what the starter is sitting on. It will be mentioned in my full write up.

Without the PT, the starter fell out of the hole into the floor. I put the starter in the space from below and then from above made the electrical connections.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...18daf0c74e.jpg

From below. It's perched on the motor mount but precarious. After it fell out once I stuffed the PT roll in to hold the starter up while making the electrical connections; ∞ better worked like a charm.

I told my dad or would take between 40 and 300 minutes. Because I tried to do only from below, it will be very close to the 300 mark, spread over three days, but when wife's starter goes, it will take 60-90 minutes because I know the shortcuts that I had to invent.

"Moldable support"

Spot on, exactly what it is. It also was conveniently right near me as I had to clean up some drips that were on my ground padding.

Garage was about 40°F so I put down some 3/8 foam anti fatigue mat under my bubble wrap style sun shade I always use to slide under the car (very smooth makes it easy to get in/out.

(Also helped to remove the front left wheel so I could just sit on the ground and lay down through the wheel well into position)

BMW enginerds (that came from autocorrect: awesome), didn't waste much space where they put the starter; you cannot pull the starter all the way out of the transmission bell without hitting the motor, you have to come or at an angle.

People have disconnected the main power before removing and it's a solid option if you can get the wrench in there, but the torque was so high I couldn't turn the 13 by hand so I would always use the method I can use impact.

Yeah, need to get some maint stuff done first(hub bearings/front axles and suspension bits) but that will be the next "fun" mod for sure.

Working out well so far....have some people at work that want to pay me to refinish theirs now. :rofl:

That's usually the way it works. :rofl:

That IS awesome! :D

Most important step is UV coating when done; the sun killed my headlight in under six months when the UV coating came off

Mine lasted 3 years without the UV protection reapplied. I just hit them now with a rubbing compound every 6 months followed up with wax.

Mine lasted a year before having to redo them with the sandpaper/compound/minwax treatment the first time I did them. The last time I did them I added Xpel headlight PPF over the top of them and they've been crystal clear for 2 years now.

Keep an eye out for cracking the lense with PPF over them. I put Lamin-X on mine after the initial repair and it cracked my lenses! I had initially thought the cracking was in the wax under the PPF or in the adhesive itself, but turned out to be the actual lenses...so keep an eye on them :wow:

Spray those headlights with a few coats of UV Clear from SprayMax, its a 2part in a can spray.

You wont have to touch them again..... think mine are 5yrs now and still look like new

I've heard of that problem. On the case I could find xpel replaced the headlights. Which was impressive. Wouldn't expect that type of treatment, but if they are/were willing to replace headlights, the failure instance had to be pretty low. Or at least I hope so. :D

:iagree:

I've used just cheap spray paint and even it will last for a couple years. I'm needing to repaint my hood due to clearcoat failure, so I plan to sand and clear my headlight lenses with the same 2K clear that I spray on the hood. Should last indefinitely.

AM.

Wax has UV protection. You just applied a coating that wears off regularly, also I believe your x parks out of the sun.


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Both cars are kept in the garage. The only time they out in the sun or elements are when they are parked away from the home like work. I'm sure that helps keep my lenses nice. :thumbup:

UV from the sun is the main killer of the car exterior but also driving in dusty conditions "sand blasts" the lenses


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+1 on the sand blasting and UV combo....

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New genuine thermostat. It’s labelled as 88degrees but the OBD 2 is indicating that it sticks at 90 degrees. Not worried just weird. Did a 70-90% change on the coolant too and I replaced it with the same type of stuff that came out.

So nice having the car running at operating temp again oppose to 61-64 degrees that it was at!

Also did 3 out 4 of my duff glow plugs. 3 came out very easily and then one was not budging so I’ve left it! I don’t have a DPF ,live where it never really gets down to freezing and it’s got the AUX coolant heater as well so the engine doesn’t stay too cold for long!


Also I stuck my EGR valve into my Ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour even though it wasn’t too bad (I think it may be new as it’s labelled with Pirberg Brand oppose to the BMW markings) but always worth giving it a boogie while I had the manifold off

Out of interest does the 3.0d have a glow plug light? Or some kind of display that it’s using the plugs?

Just noted a couple of old looking vacuum lines that need replacing at some point...... but I’m going to enjoy the fact that im fault code free (save that one bloody glow plug) and all fluids and filters, other than the transmission have now been changed.

Used this stuff on mine after polishing them out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stuff is fantastic! Very glossy, 2 part material so it is very durable. I have been using it on my wheel refinishing project and they look like new. I've had this material on my headlights since I did the polish about 4 years ago. Looks the same as when it went on.

Even better if you use plastic primer (adhesion promoter) from same manufacturer as base layer.

https://www.spraymax.com/fileadmin/u...nder_US-CA.png

:thumbup:

havent seen the clear primer before....

if you leave it sanded with 1000/1200 grit paper and then clear I dont see a need for a primer though

5yrs without primer and still look like the day I sprayed them

That brand might be okay, but I tried using Bulldog® adhesion promoter on headlights and had to sand it all back off. It resulted in cloudy lenses after the clear was applied.

AM.

Had a crazy thing happen. Wife's X had a problem a few days ago throwinmg SES with vacuum leak likely.

I checked the intake boot which is the most likely candidate and to my surprise in was in good shape so I pulled on all the connections on the intake pipe and the connection downstream of the MAF fell apart.

No seal! WTF!?

So I had the intake parts off a month ago to replace the alternator and apparently missed one seal putting back together.

Today wife's driving to Milwaukee and 5 miles away gives me a call that car has stalled. Engine running but brakes and gas aren't doing anything.

I come out and sure enough the "driver wishes" pedal on the right does nothing as of the cable came off.

So I drive the car about 3/4 a mile at 5mph with the revs jumping from 1000-1300 so feels like somebody is bumping into my backside every few seconds.

Wife departs and I get to troubleshoot and see if I can avoid a tow.

Scanner reports the throttle is stuck:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...887fad0547.jpg

And it dawned on me. I haven't found that seal for the MAF. Wonder if it got sucked in.

Using a flat piece of metal as I had no tools I macgyver'd my way into the intake boot and sure as hell damned MAF seal!

I could only touch with one finger the boot hole is too small to fit my hand.

Eventually I get one finger hooked and I can't pull it out.

Tried to reset the engine code because that would rev the engine a bit. Which it did but apparently just by injecting more fuel not opening throttle valve.

Found a pen in the car to poke the throttle plate. Release the kracken!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5201d671c.jpg

Troublemaking o-hole!

Reset codes, reassemble the air intake and like it never happened.

LOL! Good thing it didn't go all the way into a runner. Though at it's size I guess that would be a low probability. ;) Well done getting it out at any rate. :thumbup:

Decided to use the X5 tonight to drive to dinner, and upon entering the parking lot (25 mile drive to the restaurant), it decided to grace me with an SES.
Code comes up as 279b Thermostat Jamming. Temp was constant at the center and oil temp was normal, even on the entire ride home.
I erased the code when I got home, then went out for a little 12 mile ride and it hasn't thrown the code again. Coolant and oil temp normal. I'm hoping this was just a glitch.

Unfortunately the thermo dial in the dash is not a gauge. It's a 3 position idiot light: cold, within 30° of operating temp, and overheated.

The problem is, the thermostat can be struck open or closed and be 20° off and the dash will not inform you but you will get shit mpg and run for months rich with a car that won't get to closed loop. Ask me how I know.

I recommend monitoring you actual temp real-time for a while. Use I think hidden menu 7 or 9.

I had a buddy drop a broken off electrode of a spark plug into a cylinder and not realize until he started the car so I was a little concerned when it dawned on me that maybe the o-ring got sucked into the intake.

I wasn't too concerned that it got sucked into the intake I was a little worried it would have broken the throttle motor.

But was happy when the engine fired up and the gas pedal aka "driver wishes" pedal did something.

Started the repairs of my open manhole "finder".....[emoji2959][emoji857][emoji857]

Sometimes I think I should have just bought a camel...[emoji25]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...33735d1618.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7912671834.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5476e97f1f.jpg

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I know about how the gauge works, and did use the hidden menu. Never heard of a BMW thermostat failing in the closed position, but I suppose it is possible.

On second thoughts it appears it is running colder than it should on the highway. This is about as hot as it got driving about 40 minutes on the Pennsylvania Turnpike.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...317f5b6d93.jpg


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That is a little on the cool side...

That’s Highway. Around town it’s 93-95. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8787673c0e.jpg


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The stuck tstat may have been a one-off that tripped the SES. I would monitor real-time as you just did semi regularly to see if you can catch it stick high or low.

Not likely to stick closed completely, just either not open all the way or the heater not working to open early/more. Will cause it to run hot


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Agreed with Andrew. When my T-Stat was stuck, it never threw a SES. I just happened to found it on a random scan prior to my Smog.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I had really bad mileage for months till it got cold enough outside that I couldn’t get cabin heat. Probably drove five or 6000 miles with the thermostat that with engine get to the close loop.

Do I have a bias against the moronic non gauge. You can believe it.

Well....

I was doing my front bearings and seals and I found a leak of coolant. My radiator tank was weeping at the seam to the header plate. Over here it's possible to get the crenelated (sp?) aluminum so I pulled the tank of and put in a new o-ring gasket sized XXXXL (that's what she said![emoji1787]) and so far so good [emoji1696]

If you have a leaking radiator that's not from the core itself or header plate/core connection you may be able to rebuild it yourself instead of replacing the whole radiator. [emoji383]

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On my trip from NJ to Pittsburgh yesterday engine temp on the highway at 80 was about 90-92ºC with outside temp around 36ºF Not sure where it should be at.

That sounds about right. I think you may have had an intermittent issue from maybe a failing wire in the heating element. Did your error show a snapshot of the temp at the time it tripped ?

Just listed engine temp - 93c and 92.25c

93 at idle is hotter than I recall my motor being pretty much ever but I have M54. I thought I saw mention you have V8? Anybody else with V8 have a control reference?

My 4.8 runs 93c yet when I really get into it for short hard blasts I'll run 96c.

I've hit 101 several times but that's when air temps reach 50c-56c, so not sure if 1100m and 13% humidity can be factored for his 8 cylinder?

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^Yes, my N62 also runs "hot." They were designed this way for economy and emissions reasons. 98c is common. I bought a colder thermostat from Logic 7 but have yet to install it.

Here is their writeup on it: BMW THERMOSTAT PROBLEM AND SOLUTION. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ON THIS SITE!! | BMW LOGIC7

So, am: do some heated runs up a hill etc. It sounds like it should rise to 96-98 under load. Weird the error tripped at idle and 93 but I don't know the parameters where the heater kicks in to cool things off.

Maybe at idle the heater is supposed to open the tstat and keep it 90c.

Maybe one of you V8 guys can report the temp at steady state at idle.

Interesting read about the low temp tstat. Maybe your stuck open tstat is a good thing. :-).

I fitted the 80c kit from the seller in the Czech Republic £69 4.5 years ago, the thermostat has recently failed open. I contacted him via eBay as to what thermostat is fitted/fits. Almost an immediate reply with FEBI p/n cost £9 The electric "map" plug lead is fitted with a 10 ohm resistor so as not to trigger codes. The engine runs, dependant on weather conditions between 88/92c. I converted to electric fan with a 93/97 switch. Never known it to use the 97c full speed. Will cycle 2 or 3 times after switching off. Haven’t had a coolant problem/leak since fitted.


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Should have added, as a bonus (in my eyes) the g/b oil runs 84/86c


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LOL yes, I know. One thing I did notice is I've lost about 1 MPG and the oil temp only gets to the first dot past cold on the gauge. I'm probably just going to change it out because I know it's not right, even though the SES hasn't come back.

I would also, but I'm looking into the lower temp alternatives. Big deal with the 2 v 1.3bar coolant cap

Replaced my power steering pump. What a PITA! Bentleys has incorrect info and makes it look a lot easier than it is. Hoping this kills the "vibration" noise when the truck is cold and idling in gear. Signs seemed to be pointing to the pump. We'll see.

I found another loose end in the engine bay... looks like a sensor of sorts? Might have been damaged when the fan blew up, anyone know where this goes?

https://i.imgur.com/FrA5HnOh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tsuaLg4h.jpg

Might be related to a persistent CEL I have, think the secondary air pump might also be a culprit since it's a bit loud, need to get the codes... my ODB scanner doesn't pick up much

I found another loose end in the engine bay... looks like a sensor of sorts? Might have been damaged when the fan blew up, anyone know where this goes?

https://i.imgur.com/FrA5HnOh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tsuaLg4h.jpg

Might be related to a persistent CEL I have, think the secondary air pump might also be a culprit since it's a bit loud, need to get the codes... my ODB scanner doesn't pick up much

That's AUC sensor which is hooked on the fan cowl. That is only needed if you use recirculated air in Auto mode.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/CTStoZc9

cheers! I couldn't find an appropriate bracket that would let it clip in but I'll use that picture as a reference

Some engine models have it at the side of the cowl. Sensor housing has the clips to attach and cowl only groove/holes.

That looks like the "nose" as I would call it. The part that clips onto the fan cowling might be what's broke. Off but it looks like the a trial sensor inside is ok. I can pull up the auc voltage on my scanner. If you can also you can confirm its working. You can just zip tie to the shroud however look for a small hole on the side of the shroud I have a feeling that it breathes though a hole that is blown through from the fan to ensure ita getting fresh not stale air

new side mirror glass replacement pieces, bought em on amazon for cheap and they look great, also took the X for a nice wash and cleaned the inside :)

Happy Monday!

That's the really strange thing I find with these sensors. They are supposed to be sniffing for hydrocarbons in the air so they can close the outside air intake. Except, they aren't exposed to fresh air, at least that I can tell. Where they mount to the cowl has no opening into the fresh air flow of the cowl. I'm not sure how these sensors are supposed to smell fresh incoming air as I don't see any way in which they are exposed to it.

It's supposed to sniff stuff coming through the radiator.

I don't know how it would do that since where it is located on the cowl and the lack of opening in the cowl where it is located it isn't exposed to air coming through the radiator that I can tell.

I don't get it either. It's in the documentation though.

Friendly reminder--This is something that should be an independent thread rather than in What did you to/for your X5 today.

Getting alignment done. Well worth the 3 year/$180 program I signed up when I got the X.

That is awesome. Good call


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Repaired the alternator for 26 dollars

And went for a drive after 2 years of the X5 sitting in the workshop

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

hot dog and great you proved "they" wrong about DIY repair of water cooled alternator


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$26 dollars!? I can't repair my hunger for under $26 bucks sometimes. :mmm:

Gonna show some before and after of sanding my inner tail lights as well.....wish they were made of same plastic the outer tail lights were made from. :tantrum:

Just "cleaned" my window trim and b and c pillars.(sport pckg) Got tired of looking at rainbow purple haze.

Need to wash my 3.0d after 2,500kms of hard road trip, including two ferry crossings of NZ's Cook Straight. It never missed a beat in the whole trip and returned some stunning economy results...

https://i.ibb.co/jRJnX04/20200303-115611.jpg

(*edit* - that's 35.6mpg (US) or 42.8mpg (UK) for those of you not familiar with L/100km.)

I always reset the consumption #1 calculation and the trip counter when I refuel (to a full tank), so if you add the trip to the range calculation, you get an idea of just how far these things can go on a tank at highway speeds...

https://i.ibb.co/PDCfsvc/20200303-115626.jpg

I reckon 1,400km on a full tank is just about possible!! ;)

Must have been downhill all the way. :thumbup:

haha.. yeah, you'd think so, eh?

That reading was from the Picton to Kaikoura leg....

https://goo.gl/maps/U12CjhTo3T7U8BhMA

I'd get better mileage from here to there. Of course the X would be on a RORO and not running [emoji1787][emoji1787]

I don't even care about my mileage over here anymore just as long as I go fast and don't use the Middle Eastern "instant stop" feature (aka immovable object) that seems to be a favorite option....[emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696]

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They pack 'em tight on the RORO... You can't even barely open the door!

https://i.ibb.co/qkBs7jx/20200302-162325.jpg

I wish that fuel was cheap here - we are paying near NZ$10 per US gallon for premium grade petrol - hence owning a 3.0d!! ;)

Holy crap!![emoji15][emoji383]Fuel here is only $0.56 or £0.44 a litter.....

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Seriously NOT trying to rub salt in that wound but diesel is even cheaper....

You don't happen to have a spare tanker ship do you?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3da1c3cac3.jpg

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ugh it's even more expensive here, and I'm doing more like 18L/100km :D

Replaced hood struts. I think this was the first time since new, maybe second. I would say I am on the high side of having the hood open. Nice to have a repair that requires no tools, don't have to remove anything in the way and takes a few minutes to complete.

Amen, rare on a BMW. Plus, it's an indescribable peace that washes over you when you lean your head over the engine bay and don't have to worry about it being guillotined. :D

My struts still work I can even hang a light from my hood. Wife's: notsomuch. I get cluncked on the regular. Thanks for reminding me I'm using CV stimulus to catch up on needed fixes

What brand did you ended up replacing it with? I'm ready for a 2nd replacement set :(

Stabilus 1041VO should be OEM.

Brand is Beneges. They are strong enough to lift the hood from less than halfway up. I also like the white printing on the side, looks high performance. I have had no past experience with them

Scrubbed alot of salt out and needs a other pass. Driver side was white before...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2767f1052c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9a4d704df4.jpg

^That CD changer interface. Retro AF! That was around when I was working in the install bays at Circuit City. Nice work on the carpet.

Circuit City, have you ever hear of Good Guys?

I think its sattelite radio? The 4.6 is new to me and I havent even really enjoyed it yet. I have been trying to get it road ready so I havent even played with it yet. I dont even think the interface even powers on currently...

I do remember Good Guy's. Vaguely.

It looks a lot like an old Sirius receiver interface as well, before XM merged with them. But that looks an Alpine CD changer interface.

If you squint, the small description on the interface does say CD changer :wow:

Why would anyone put that Alpine CD changer interface on an X5 when the OE unit can control an Alpine CD changer without it?

Those two stores were everything to me at one point in my life. I was and still am an electronics junkie!

One of my favorite electronics stores now is Frys. I could spend hours walking and browsing the aisles like a toy store. :thumbup:

Fixed that for you. Thank goodness the closest one to me is 2 hours away in Austin. :D

Had all 4 tires mounted and balanced on Wednesday and had alignment done yesterday.

Yes! Fry’s is definitely the new favorite! But..., I don’t want to fall off the wagon. LoL..

What does the royal red look like in your e38?

https://i.ibb.co/8mrkmHr/tapatalk-1544407284763.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/X3YCBmr/20190625-204450.jpg

Very nice. Thanks. Hadn't heard of royal red before. :thumbup:

That car design, that color, them style 37 wheels and lastly but not least...that brick driveway is beautiful.

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Put up a sun shade sail to protect that rare oem paint job.

I want those wheels.

Taking my time overhauling suspension,l. Finished the rear a month ago, and then started on the front last week, but said fukit and went in for that stupid oil cooler gasket.
Fighting to get that diff not out right now, don't want to remove that engine mount bracket.

This job sucks. It's a retarded design, not sure wtf BMW was thinking.

Once I get to it, new seals everywhere, slap in the new axle and button it up.

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It's a brick alley by a friends house...

anybody have right rear speed senor go bad and 2003 x5 4.4i it not hard to change out is it? and how hard it to do auxilary water pump ?

Cleaned up and installed some E66 comfort headrests and stealth bulbs in the fender turn signals. I also have some for the rear turn signals as well...

https://i.ibb.co/d7zz7P4/20200419-194316.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/b3MSjF3/20200419-181207.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/vBMbZYY/20200419-175843.jpg

Looks great Purplecty! :thumbup:

Speed Sensor
Pull the wheel, remove one allen screw and disconnect wiring. Here is a DIY link
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

Auxiliary water pump shouldn't be more than 2 hoses and an electrical connector :dunno:

For aux water pump worth checking if you can refurbish it with just new brushes.

Are those manually adjustable? The headrests? I too have comfort seats and loved the one's we had in our e60. They were the active type.

I think that is one of the upgrades I am going to do if I find I can get the active seats to work.:dunno:

I moved my X5 out of the garage so my son could start his 1JZ into e30 swap.

Outside of electric headrests they are manually adjusted...

Some years ago I was seriously thinking of retrofitting E7x comfort seats to my E53. It's not plug and play and those seats are still quite expensive on the second hand market. Seat rails would need hacking first. Then the electric side needs more work because those newer electric seats require K-CAN control. So you would have to install emulator between older K-bus and newer K-CAN. Not sure if anyone has actually done this.

I haven't seen or sat in those seats, but I sure do miss those e60 comfort seats. I loved the auto bolster feature. You could really get snug in the seat for spirited driving then it would open up so you can easily exit the car. Awesome feature. That would be the one feature that would seal the deal for me if I could figure it out.

I actually missed out on a set that was in the local pick and pull. I found them in an e60 and were in remarkable condition. I started to pull them and couldn't figure out which motor moved them front to back to get at the last bolt. Well, life happened (read work) and when I had a chance to go back, someone snagged them.:angryfire Worst thing was that they were $40 a piece!:explode:

Comfort seats on E7x and E6x are pretty much the same. From a different decade compared to any E53 seats.

i re dyed my leather with doc baily leather dye came out pretty good will put in second coat tomorrow morning.. order some exhaust tips and aux water pump hopefully comes tomorrow. I am in need of a paint job same factory color any recomendations? maaco or ____??? how they heck do u upload pics on here

Load the image(s) to imgbb.com then paste the BBCode url here...

Spent a little time Polishing the DINAN tips but i think they can be better but they were pretty bad...


https://i.ibb.co/GFvHMfH/20200420-192044.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/HhRFDJf/20200420-192031.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9H0Hpqw/20200420-192015.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/7jG5TYy/20200420-192003.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9y49KDy/20200420-190215.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/4Rqz85j/20200420-190203.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/nmdFXVn/20200420-184139.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/nLB4str/20200420-182004.jpg
good free file hosting

They look great! Always rewarding when you get instant results! :thumbup:

Thanks! This was just using this polish on a rag with a little finger and elbow grease I got from a world of wheels like 10 years ago. Great Stuff but the accessible angles with the bumper on is tough. Here is a before pic! Maybe another pass with a brillo pad and the green paste?

https://i.ibb.co/3kMTB24/20200420-182632.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/f9TNPkg/20200420-170720.jpg

Wow! I was unimpressed until I saw the before. Very nice work.

Haha yes they need alot more work I just polished it up a little bit but I am determined to get them looking better!

Need to do all 10 of mine.

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Oh boy I wouldn't be looking forward to that. If the bumper was off it would have been easier but I'd rather not...

The CLS55 is the worst one. Very tight fit and in the worst shape.

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Here is one of my favorite tricks and may work for this job.

Use some foam mounting tape (thick double sided foam tape) and use to put your green scrubbie inside a hole saw of just the right diameter.

Would have to be very soft foam and maybe 2-3 layers to get around the bugle flare at the end.

I've used the trick many times but most often on the outside of the hole saw. One example was prepping the knuckle to install a new front wheel bearing

Does all E66 comfort headrest fit on the E53 seats?

I think only if they have electric headrests with the bigger posts. Otherwise you will have to somehow modify the headrest to take your original posts...

<a href="https://ibb.co/VBjH6jf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6snvQnj/20200425-125829.jpg" alt="20200425-125829" border="0"></a>

Made lots of progress in reassmbly.
Put on oil cooler bracket with new gasket. Torqued it down.
Popped out passenger side axle. New output seal.
Put on new front flex disc. Torqued down diff.
New inner o-ring and output shaft seal on the diff.
Popped in RH side axle.
Changed RH thrust arm, and control arm.
Not torqued yet.
Went to put oil lines to T-stat. Wrong o-rings. So I put on the tensioner by the water pump, and torqued that.
Then called the dealership for the O-ring.
Just got back from picking those up.
Might attack it again tomorrow, but I'm not looking forward to the alternator at all.

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You have water cooled alternator like M62? I've changed those a couple times it was easier than my M54.

The PS pump had a very tricky screw/nut but with the right tool it was a breeze.

Just replaced the expansion tank coolant hose.
Quick and painless 10 minute job.
I used a little red grease for plastic on the o rings.
Almost every part is new now in the coolant system : Radiator,expansion tank,oil cooler radiator(the aluminium block underneath the radiator)all the hoses,coolant return steel pipe(the one in the valley between the cylinders)
Hooray,my beast is fully functional,apart from the rear door lock actuators,but those are a job for another day.

You going to rebuild them? Follow my DIY and save $215 or so per door.


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Good idea! I can give it a go.
Do you have a link on this site for your DIY method?

Nope. Regular alternator.
PS pump wasn't tricky to remove. I'm hoping remounting is the same.

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With all the work you've done, the alternator should be a breeze. Just remember to clearance the bolt guides/pins before putting it back in. Otherwise you'll be fighting to get it in.

Clearance what?

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The little guides/bushings. Shown below. It moves out of it's hole slightly and blocks reinstallation. A little tapping gets it back into place.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/di4AA...HGn/s-l400.jpg

Damn. Didn't even notice that before. Will check before. Thanks

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Slightly helps the removal too if you first partially loosen the bolt and then hammer at the end of the bolt to push the gliding nut level.

Removal was a bish. It was right in there. I'll def have to mess with it prior to install.

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On the M62 there is a not nut that has no room to get a socket and it is counter sunk so can't fit a wrench.

Search awr-fix in title using advance search.

I saw a nut on the back that looks like that. Like it's inserted and the bolt threads into it

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...da98eb2fa6.jpg

This is the one on the M62.

My through hole socket worked perfectly. (also works perfectly on the timing chain tensioner)

Removed the car cover and fired it up so I could rearrange the driveway due to finally wrapping on my E39 wagon brake upgrade. Cleaned all the mouse snack leftovers under the hood and reinstalled the cover as it is raining cats and dogs here....
I promised to drive her on Friday if the weather is nice.