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-   -   What did you do to / for your E53 today?? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/78921-what-did-you-do-your-e53-today.html)

andrewwynn 04-28-2018 04:41 PM

On our x5s, the oil light comes on about 2 qt low. It is at least 1/2 qt below the dipstick when the light comes on. That said since it holds 8 quarts, that's like a normal car being 1 qt low.

Our cars both let you know when oil is starting to get low because it takes a few seconds for the valve noise to disappear on cold start. Full of oil takes 3-4 seconds but about 1 q low starts to take 10-13 seconds, and the oil pressure light takes an extra second or two to go out.

When I can count to 12 before valve ticks go away then I know it's time to get a bottle of Mobil One.

andrewwynn 04-28-2018 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1133512)

Replaced my front left door handle carrier today - the factory unit (which lasted 13 years) was broken last week (no idea how...other than the obvious...).



Pulled it all out and had another go - it seemed to fit better the next time around and I got it all buttoned up pretty quickly after that.



Did the job with power on the car (hung the air bag to one side - carefully!) as I wanted to check the lock and unlock operation etc. before putting the interior door card back on.


I've done this repair about six times. The trick to get it out or in is to rotate almost 90°. Pointing up and down.

The air bag will attach backwards into one of the mounting points very convenient

When not broken from a stuck lock bar (almost always the cause when cold) it's simple fatigue failure. My back left door carrier just broke a couple weeks ago I haven't had time to take it out and repair yet. I'm planning on repairing the exiting carrier I will post photos

wpoll 04-28-2018 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1133537)
The trick to get it out or in is to rotate almost 90°. Pointing up and down.

That wasn't the problem - that part is easy. It was once the carrier was up in place and I was ready to screw it down, it "rocked" - if one end was flush with the door panel the other was 1/4' behind it - push that end flush and the other end moved back a 1/4". It was hung up on something I could NOT see. And when I eventually got to sit flush at both front and rear ends and screwed it down, the entire pull latch was jammed, like it was locked. I think the lock cam was hung up on the end of the window runner or something.

Dang odd... but as I said, I pulled the whole thing out and started again. Seemed better that time - no significant issues. other than bruised knuckles from fecking with the ball joint on the cable too many times! :rolleyes:

andrewwynn 04-28-2018 09:40 PM

I see. In that case I've had that happen and sliding into position from the front of the car toward the back would usually get it in within a couple tries.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

fishhouse4 04-30-2018 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRod1981 (Post 1133479)
yeah man it was ezpz. just sand the pieces by hand to smooth out the cracks. progressively higher grit yada yada, clean with alcohol and apply your choice of adhesive backed wrap and use a heat gun to stretch it around the edges, trim the excess long and tuck it underneath (in case you wanna remove it and change or repair you got something to pull on... I chose a solid color so I didn't have to match the pattern or I'd lose my shit.


That looks outstanding - going to have to do this for sure! Where did you get the vinyl you used from?

fishhouse4 04-30-2018 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1133495)
I bought the BMW branded models from eBay brand new for about $60 all four and they have earned their keep many times over. From a gallon jug of a&w root beer to Halloween candy + sun shine to of course mud and snow galore.


I just checked those out - thanks for the recommendation. I usually favor the floor liners because they don't have such aggressive/high tread pattern. I drive barefoot most of the time and the liners are much more flat, smooth and more comfortable in compassion (since they have tall side flaps instead to hold in any mess). Feels good to the feet. :D

FRod1981 04-30-2018 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhouse4 (Post 1133663)
That looks outstanding - going to have to do this for sure! Where did you get the vinyl you used from?

amazon... make sure its 3M stuff not china crap.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-M12-MATTE-...adhesive+vinyl

and you can get it in whatever color/pattern floats your boat. Like I said I avoided the patterned stuff because if it didn't match 100% from drivers side to passenger I'd lose it

andrewwynn 04-30-2018 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhouse4 (Post 1133664)
I just checked those out - thanks for the recommendation. I usually favor the floor liners because they don't have such aggressive/high tread pattern. I drive barefoot most of the time and the liners are much more flat, smooth and more comfortable in compassion (since they have tall side flaps instead to hold in any mess). Feels good to the feet. :D


I'm pretty sure I've driven barefoot and definitely only socks and found the rubber comfortable to step on. I'll try to remember to test that for you. I like the rubber better than the weather tec plastic.

SEVEN40iL 05-03-2018 05:15 PM

Alternator died on me the other night, so today I pulled that sucker out!

First time doing an alternator job, and got it out in about 2 hours time following a DIY video on youtube!

Gonna have it rebuilt and reinstall it tomorrow.

Mine ended up being a Valeo 140a unit, made in France.

andrewwynn 05-04-2018 11:07 AM

I rebuilt mine with a $20 usd kit. I didn't need to replace the bearings just the slip rings and brushes. Xoutpost and YouTube saved me a ton. Even a copy cat alternator was $300


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