well ,today was an interesting day, I started off stripping the car down to repair a bottom hose,
took fan off, removed all coolant pipes and gave the front of the engine a degrease and power washed it to within an inch of its life, to get rid of all the thick crud on it. (to finally find out where the oil leaks coming from)
then removed the offending pipe, really small hole, even though its a inch slit .
then I find this..
water pump bearing bad …… so needs new water pump (4 year old)
I then after removing this...………
http://www.new-part.com/sites/defaul...11990151_0.jpg
find the left tag that's supposed to hold it in place has broke off,
so ive got a week to order new bits :)
oh the joy

This is great! Question tho. Why did you need to disable the DRLs with the scan tool?

My stock DRLs were nasty yellows in the high beam (see pic below - not sure if that's the same for everyone). So you have to disable those via scan tool or code to make them not come on at all times IF you want the classic angel eye only look.

The wire you run from the ECU to each AE gives the bulbs a power source so that they light all the time instead.

So, just turning the key on makes the angel eyes come on and they stay on as long as the car is on. You can leave your light switch in the Auto setting and have them act as DRLs.

Replaced both rear air springs and fixed passenger front window regulator. Installed a Basser box with a 10in Kicker CompRT powered by Massive amp. Also clayed, polished and put a fresh coat of wax on.

Here is my post for modifying the temp gauge on my high cluster
https://xoutpost.com/1121333-post23.html

Another way to wire AEs is to connect to ignition wire and to door light. When ignition is on AEs are on. When doors are unlocked AEs come on. When door or rear hatch is opened AEs come on.

Thanks for this share and your help over PM. Same to @Crowz for his webpage.

I did this today and it seemed to worked flawlessly. Will test on a longer drive later to see the new gauge readings once it's hot.

My hex variables were not exactly the same as yours (3.0 vs 4.8 I assume) but very close. Once I knew where to look it was an easy change of a few digits and write the edits. Very cool!!!

While rebuilding my entire Android Eonon GA6166 system due to a faulty Witson SoM Board I installed the latest version of the BMW IBUS app (2.0.3).

https://www.ibus-app.de/index_en.html

Lots of new features (app opening sequence, speed sensitive volume, etc.) and this app really makes leaving the OBC functions behind while doing a head unit upgrade, a non-event.

:thumbup:

Mike

Holy. That makes me want an eanon unit so bad now.

No kidding... on my list after exhaust and tune. :D