Xoutpost.com - *The Official E53 Manual Transmission Registry Thread*

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Thanks to all whom have welcomed me. Ricky Bobby, she is a (because I treat her like a lady) 2002, and I'm in California. For those who are interested in my before and after experience, I will give you a fair and honest opinion. The RMS kit is very high quality in my opinion, the blower will be a V-3 Si which is the latest technology, and will be tuned by the creator of the kit himself. I'm looking forward to performance we discussed during the presentation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Dragon (Post 919050)

Just a question for this crew.... Has anyone changed their clutch assembly out with something other than just the O.E setup? I'm going to be doing mine this spring and just started looking into this. I have seen non-dual mass conversion clutch assemblies out now with light weight cro-moly (14.5lbs)or even lighter aluminum (13-9.5 lbs)flywheels available. I've heard if you go too light you run into poor street performance. I've been told that our dual mass is about 24 lbs! That's a lot of rotating mass that could be conserved for greater efficiency as well as performance and throttle response.

I would think you don't want to go too aggressive with clutch disc engagement properties, as you don't want to shock load the drive-train. Some of the stage 2 kits look about right. The conversion kits have spring hub clutch discs to help with gear rattle.

Also, I'm not sure exactly what kits are compatible with our set up.
Mine is often shown to be not compatible with the 01-03's as mine is a six a 6-speed. But that is OEM stuff too though. :dunno:What do you think and does anyone have any experiences.

I think, as far as you don't participate on drag racing sessions or do heavy duty off-road trips with your X5 the stock clutch/flywheel combo remains the best.

I only tried out Sachs performance clutch and one mass flywheel on my M5 E39, but put the stock flywhell back shortly after, even it had to be modificated a little to run witch Sachs performance clutch, and after a year I also put the stock clutch plate back.

Single mass flywheels need more attention in daily driving (even if you don't mind the operation noises), having some other cars you'll never get used to the very hard clutch and single mass flywheel specialities.

Many owners of supercharged M5 E39 run stock clutches on their 550+hp cars with no issues, still after one very agressive start the power will demolish both - flywheel and clutch.

I also had some concerns about my current stock flywheel and clutch on X5, due the car will be supercharged, but I'll never do drag racing and I'll shift carefully from the 1st to 2nd - so I hope, the clutch will last the power and the weight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smi2710 (Post 919065)

I'm new to the club as of thursday. I do have some concerns on the 5 spd tho shifting is seeming to be getting tougher to sometimes to get in gear and down shifting is tough. Sometimes pulling it out of 1st is very tricky when shifting. Clutch does not not slip what so ever. I'm gonna take it to my friend who owns a trans shop but before i get there what are your suggestions truck has 101k and was a one owner vehicle

thanks
and I love the truck in every way

Clutch delay valve replacement makes for an overall smoother shifting experience with the hydraulics, taking out the "delay" when letting out the clutch.

For you, if you are having notchy shifting, I would do a trans fluid change first off, and do a linkage adjustment second of all. Notchy shifting has always been linkage or fluid related IMO

where do i do the adjustment on this vehicle i have done older bmw's and many VW's but since it in the mid 30's:rofl: today id like to get out there and take a look around thanks

If you have an X5 with a manual transmission (I do, a 2002 3.0 diesel with 5 speed) you will likely have the factory transmission fill, as BMW puts in a high quality (but lifetime) synthetic oil.

Lifetime is not, you will want to change every 30.000 miles / 45.000 km. You will want to change to Redline MTL (I've researched this to death, use it), installing magnetic drain plug (Dimple or UUC) as BMW stopping installing them and then removing the clutch delay valve. I've done all three on mine, MUCH better.

There is no adjustment provision in the shifter linkage, if you have severe play - you'll need to replace worn parts. You will also (naturally) want to have your brakes and clutch fluid changed, normally every two years (annualy is better). This will also help your shifting and ensure long life of your clutch hydraulics.

On the subject of better than the factory LUK / Sachs "adjustable" clutches for manual cars, you can indeed find better. I had researched this for my car (using BMW ETK as your part number guide). From memory, the clutch for the 5 speed 3.0 diesel is the same as the E39 540i (specific years) which means you can use the UUC upgraded clutch. I wouldn't go for a race / paddle clutch, this is an X5 not an M3 track car.

If you have a 3.0 gasoline 5 or 6 speed or 3.0 diesel with 6 speed, look up your factory clutch and then give Rob a call at UUC. When I do this on my car, I won't change the flywheel. Once again, this is an X5 not an M3 track car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory891 (Post 919294)

I can concur about Redline MTL being a great replacement for the factory fill, no problems on mine since I changed it almost a year ago.

What you need to do is check out a diagram of the shifter linkage on RealOEM and honestly if there is no adjustment, just replace the bushings and linkage parts, last I checked it couldn't have been more than 100 in parts and if you are handy you can get to some of the linkage from under the car and some from under the shift boot.

Thanks guys ill get in there once this weather subsides :) i wilso have my tans guy take a look at it. Then i will change wall fluids Trans , diff, engine and ill flush the brake fluid as well. Does anyoone have the amouts each of these take really just the trans and diff. Thanks

Your car is a 2001 X5 3.0 (gasoline), so it's probably got an NV125 transfer case (like my 2002 X5 3.0 diesel). Your driveline would be essentially the same capacities as mine.

I wrote this in another post, so this is a repeat.

For your car, use BMW VIN Decoder - By Mitsuhiko Kanekatsu to determine your car's capacities.

Transmission on mine (diesel) may not the exactly same as the 3.0i gasoline (input torque and ratios are rather different) but capacity would be within a few 100 mL or so.

Roughly 3 liters/quarts total for Front/rear diffs (Redline 75w-90 Gear Oil, GL-5). Officially 0.7 front & 1.0 L rear
Officially 1.55 Lf Manual Trans fluid (Redline MTL).
Officially 0.46 L for transfer case (Redline ATF or MTL)
Engine capacity is 7 L, check your owner's manual
Full brake/clutch fluid flush can take 1/2 to 1 liter / quart. Ate SL (ABS approved)
P/S would take ATF (I had a minor leak so drained the system and filled with Redline ATF)
Coolant. Use BMW factory coolant.

Plan for more, and as with all of these (except P/S and engine, where you have a dipstick), you fill until you have oil coming out of the fill hole.

You will want to order magnetic drain plugs (at minimum) for your transmission and transfer case (Dimple) and (ideally) also for your differentials and engine.

Confirmed from my change:

Trans takes 2 quarts (MTL)

Transfer Case takes less than a quart (Redline D4 ATF)

Diffs take 3 quarts between both (Redline 75w-90 gear oil

Engine oil for M54 between 7.5-8 quarts (mine takes 8)