I know some people will want the switch, but after installing mine, I was concerned that I had created a potential point of failure just for the sake of convenience. So I uninstalled it (it's for sale if anyone wants it - PM me, I actually have two of them).

I'm much happier with my new solution. I used one of those battery quick disconnects I mentioned in an earlier post. I don't think it will work on cars with air suspension since the compressor obstructs it. Also, you need to be able to reach through an opening in the spare tire. But for my no-air 3.0, 17" OE spare wheel/tire, and the Walmart battery, it fits perfectly = enough room to install it, and enough room to get past the compressor shell thing. Hopefully it is clear in the photo attached here. The photo was taken looking through the opening in my 17" wheel OE spare tire.

I actually made one more modification after this photo was taken. With the green knob down there and hard to reach, I did not want to tighten it too much in case I would not be able to loosen it when needed. This made it too loose, as I found out once when the car would not start. So I replaced the knob with a screw which I tighten with a screwdriver I keep with the other tools in that compartment. This is now a perfect solution for me. I don't think I have compromised the original system, and it is very convenient to disconnect the battery when I'm working on the car.

Also, the battery quick disconnect can be found anywhere for about $5-$7.
Attachment 65551

Ever since I read about Terminator's nightmare scenario of the cutoff switch, I've been meaning to relocate the switch. So this weekend I finally had some time.

Got me a couple of these
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...j.jpg~original

Same switch
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...r.jpg~original


I ended up doing the connection from the ground side that way the battery terminals are intact
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...a.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...5.jpg~original

Wiring to the switch
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...x.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...g.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...p.jpg~original

Buttoning up
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...b.jpg~original

Final switch location
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...i.jpg~original

Only thing left to do is bolt the switch so it doesnt move. Also looking at a decal or something to tell a mechanic of the existence of a battery disconnect switch

something like this on the CD changer cover
http://www.militarystencils.com/Asse...y_switch_t.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...l.jpg~original

My turn to take a crack at this. Been moving forward on the stereo install so battery access is going to be limited (read... non existent). With Red having a new battery freshly installed I shouldn't have to replace it for another 4 or 5 years. Buuuuut removing the negative terminal for servicing would still be necessary.

So I ordered this from Amazon a long time ago (when I was ordering other stereo gear. It works pretty well. I get the same resistance across the factory ground cable, the 2 new cables I made, and then the entire setup so there shouldn't be any issues. *crap, jinxed myself* I spent waaaaaaaaayyyy too long I'm embarrassed to say. Think it was like 5 hours. Everything just ate up time. Fabbing the bracket and then wrapping it. I hate cheap vinyl BTW. Making the cables which included desoldering the factory negative battery terminal and soldering it onto new 4awg wire. Had to break out the propane torch to accomplish that. And then running/taping/prettifying everything. Anyway the setup seems to work great, so on to the pics.

Attachment 79242

Attachment 79243

Attachment 79244

Attachment 79245

It's not easy to do a good job soldering heavy cables. Watch for resistance increasing in the connection after a while. I solder everything when it comes to smaller stuff but battery / starter cables are much better crimped.

Will keep an eye on it, thanks. I crimped everything else in combo with solder but the factory ring terminal is a solder only design unfortunately. Was sure to check the resistance on everything and I tinned the bajeesus out of the new wire before inserting into the oe terminal which was also tinned. I gave it a really good pull test so we'll see how it goes. :dunno: I didn't want to replace the terminal with the aftermarket audio one I have here as it would require 2 different tools to replace a battery and I do get some joy out of keeping the oe one.

I will say... Every car should come with a battery disconnect. Only had it a night and now I don't know how I every lived without it.

I learn all kinds of new stuff every time I open XOutpost! - This is a GREAT idea - beats the HE** out of pulling everything out of my hatch every time I need to disconnect the battery for this, that or the other - pure GENIUS!

Love this forum!


EDIT: And not that its right in front of me and so obvious, doh, feel like a complete dope for not thinking of is sooner...

Very tidy CW. Love the fabric tape on the cables, looks factory. :thumbup:

Same here. Just realized I need to do the idiot temp gauge in the cluster programming with the laptop to make it a real functional gauge that actually shows the real temp status. Thanks to the forum.

I can't claim credit for this idea but I wanted to do it in a more factory implemented manner than I had seen. Found this battery cutoff (think it's designed for boats?) and thought I could integrate it cleanly.

Thanks OB, high praise from you. I'm very pleased with the result and I've used it quite a bit over the last few days while working on the stereo. Now, I'll have to keep an eye on it though as 80stech has me paranoid about my soldering work on that large OE battery terminal. :D I guess time will tell.

BTW, good to see you again. Hadn't seen you on for a few weeks (not that I'm stalking or anything :D), but figured you had some work stuff going. Congrats on those finishes btw, saw them in the other thread. :thumbup:

Just an FYI,
using solder in our motorsport environment is an absolute no-no. The vibrations will easily break any hard connection like solder without proper mounting or strain relief. Straight professional crimping is all I do on any motorsport harnesses.

Given the street car environment of little or no vibrations, you will probably be fine but just keep in mind the physics of connections. :thumbup:

Car audio was the same way, when going for SPL you’d rattle your solder loose within just a few minutes sometimes - we crimped everything. Used to have a set of 36” crimpers to get enough pressure on 0 gauge wire! Man I miss those now that I’m rewiring my Notchback...


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