Interesting.....looks like some kind of IED lol. I'm curious what is considered to be the minimum current rating that we would need. The manual switch I have is rate for 200 amps continuous, where as the Kib pdlr9806 is only rated for 110.....I'm not sure how being on the grounding side of the battery effects things though, if at all. I'm no electrician!

What goes in must come out. Does not make a difference for rating as to what side (positive or negative) it is.

I have mine on the Positive side of the battery, the relay you speak of X5SND is not the same relay that I am using. Mine is rated for almost 500 amps. They make other relays such as starter relays for the diesel engine on the coaches I service that can take over 3000 amps. The one I am using is something near 500 amps continuous.

I guessed you've got a point regarding the common ground (the single grounding post that the battery's negative terminal connecting to the chassis). If you extend the ground wire along with the additional impedance introduced by the breaker circuit, the common reference point, which is at the chassis contact point, would remain the same as seen by all devices in the car. In this instance, there shouldn't be a ground loop problem.

In this case, it is possible to keep the GND cable very short as this is how the OE cable routing is done.

Installed battery cutoff switch. Removed the cables that came with it and replaced them with 63" cables. Cut and opening the cargo door so I could mount the switch flush. Cables run under the door and into the battery well through existing 'slots'. Have been driving it for two days with no warning lights or problems.

this is my solution to switch placement. looks ok to me...

what do you guys think?? i used socket cap head screws, 10-24-1.5" - on the pictures i have two size screws, the first size was a bit too big, so i went for a smaller one...

Both installations look great and really clean. I lean more towards Terminator's as it is out of sight.

I second that! Looks good Term.

thanks guys... this way i did not have to extend the cables or cut through a side panel - just two small drilled holes in the sliding floor support, a little offset with the piece of plastic conduit... i did straightened the terminals of the cables that were angled at 90 degrees - the angled ones just did not fit into the small cavity inside the support. i had enough cable to reach to the negative trerminal of the battery, and the only thing that is left unsightly, is the connection between the car's eyelet and the switch's post - i need to insulate them... However, being a (-) post, it is not too scary if it touches the car's body, as the it is already grounded... just in the name of good workmanship it needs to be insulated... I will be using rubber tape for that...

Looks great! This is a must have IMHO

I'm gonna have to put one in when I get the X up and running

I removed my stock sub enclosure and there is a nice cubby behind the access panel.. I think I'll route it down there.