I like the look of other switches but am going to wait to see the kit before deciding whether or not to change switch. Since Z168 has reported no problems and it is out of sight, I am leaning toward not messing with it.

Thanks for responding. but can you describe the general layout to me how to install the switch off the positive terminal without a cable kit?

The switch is spliced into the existing cable. If you choose a remote location a length of cable can be added.

Thanks for posting the install/fitment pictures Z!

IMO, I can see why this particular piece is used in transport only though... I'd be particularly worried about the intermediate male-female link, and not having the switch mounted to anything. It's for those reasons when it comes time for me to do a disconnect (or when I get around to it) that I'll use some 1/0 to run a new ground cable all together....right from the battery to switch and down to the chassis ground, eliminating unnecessary connections.

This is a non-starter for me. I didnt want to cut/splice/touch the original harness so everything is plug and play


If I wanted to run the cable from the battery terminal, to the left CD changer location and back down to the factory ground point (where the original ground cable attaches to the chassis), how thick of a gauge do I need to run? I assume it should be thicker than stock since the farther you go the bigger the gauge you will need, right?

Depending on you're distance, I wouldn't go smaller than 1/0 awg. I don't recall what the factory ground cable is (4....maybe 2 gauge?). 1/0 is some pretty thick sh!t though....I doubt it would give you any issues (except for maybe not bending very easily).

I agree, don't want to splice existing wires. If possible, I am going to try to mount the switch so that it is accessible and looks factory installed without removing anything as I have would have to remove subwoofer and 'stuff' that is bolted to main cover.

You could still use that hella switch as the posts in the back are just threaded studs. Cut the heat shrink, undo nut, discard short cable & replace with you're own cable. Throw some heat shrink back on and you should be golden. Whole job should take maybe 15 mins tops!

I'll probably do that when I get the chance. Its no fun to pull the spare tire again :( In the meantime I will keep it as is until I find a cheaper pre-made cable

Sounds good. I was looking at the possibility of mounting the switch behind the hatch to the nav. etc unit. Looks like it would be simple to do.