Received the quick disconnect switch today. That was quick! Ordered it on the 24th.

I intend to mount the switch above the floor, either in the nav compartment or somewhere in the back that is out of the way.

The OEM cable is 4 gauge.

I will be adding no more than two feet to each cable. I don't know that much electrical. I do know I ain't gonna git horse kicked off the barn agin, oow-weee that was a toe curler. I am not familiar if or how much I need to increase the gauge for the additional cable. I don't want it any thicker than it has to be because it will be harder to run and likely won't run in some of the places smaller diameter wire can.

Question is what gauge cable is critical to use for the additional 4 at most feet?

Since the factory cable is 4ga, you should be ok with 2 gauge for that run length. Just be sure to get yourself some good quality cable. :thumbup:

Found a 51" grounding cable from you'll never guess. that should be plenty long to get creative

CLICK

That's a cool one. I have, and I think we all have the same problem when we DIY on our rigs. My solution was to use an RV battery disconnect solenoid with a switch under the dash. I work on motor coaches so I had a few laying around, the next time im under there I will take a pic.

That's an interesting idea....never thought of that. I think those would be a latching relay, only requiring power when switching states, no? Where did you mount the switch?

It's probably the more expensive version of a battery disconnect...especially since most of us don't have those things "laying around"....nevertheless, I like your style!

Great idea!. Being accessible from the driver's seat would have broader application.

Having a proper gauge cable is only part of the equation. If you're not careful with cable routing, you can create unwanted ground loops. I want my battery ground cable going to the chassis to be as short as possible and running as close as possible to the positive cable. This minimize any ground loops. Look at how the OE cables are routed.

I didn't think there could be a ground loop if the cable is completely insulated through the entire length of the cutoff routing so there are not two ground points?

I looked at the equation for resistance added by X length of additional cable. There was an example where they moved the battery 12 feet to the rear of the car and it was just over the allowable increase.

I din do no quationing, it hurt my head to read it worser than gettin' hit with a coal shovel. I'm only a guess'n but if it takes 12 feet to fall in the well I woned if I goes another couple boot lengs a'usen that there same cable?

Ground loops stem from different grounding potentials between shared circuits. Dkl, I think you're getting a ground loop confused with inductance and the resulting emi. If you have a ground loop, running your ground beside the power wires are likely to have no effect on resolving it.

It's good practice to keep cables as short as possible, but as everyone knows it's not always possible.

Its actually a ground pulse trigger that activates/deactivates. Its called a relay, solenoid, cut off switch, in my industry, and there are several manufactures and several different kinds. The kind you see the most out there is a standard 3-4 post solenoid, basic power on, no power off. I used a latching one made by KIB that has a small circuit board on it that monitors the ground pulses to latch and "un" latch if you will. The switch is under the dash so it doesn't get accidently hit driving down the road its just a standard momentary on/off/on switch.

Here is a pic of the disconnect.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8186090e.jpg