Yeah, these V8 X5s are no good. Needed to use it today for a parts run, new power steering pump to install in the 2 yr newer and 100k fewer miles Honda Accord (the 175k mile X still has the OE pump). :dunno:

Please correct me if I am mistaken. You don't have any history on the X, I am sure I remember you saying that.

Assuming I am right, isn't it more likely the X was not properly maintained and that the previous owner's negligence is the issue, not the build quality?

You are correct, E30
 

It's true, I don't have any idea how this car was treated before I got it, but it was immaculate and drove solid.

I'm in the process of checking the water pump but can't get the fan clutch off. I have the fan clutch tool from my E39 but it doesn't work on this one as the 10mm bolts on the hub are almost flush with the lip of the hub, making it impossible to hold the water pump hub while breaking the fan clutch nut free.

I am open to suggestions. In the past I made a tool that rested under one of the 10mm bolts and went all the way to the floor, so when I turned the 32mm wrench I had the weight of the car helping me break it free. This won't work on the X. I sprayed the nut as best as I could about an hour ago with PB Blaster and tried wedging a crowbar between the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley (using the belt as padding) and whacked the 32mm wrench with a 5lb hammer, but got no where.

I've been looking all over the internet for a 2001 BMW X5 4.4i specific fan clutch removal tool but they all keep coming up with the stupid flat generic all-BMW tool, which simply won't work on this vehicle.

The crude drawing I just made is what I need, and it needs to be made of steel. It has to recess into the pulley hub so the holes in the fork can fit around the 10mm bolts, but still have clearance for the 32mm wrench.

And to beat you to the punch...yes, I am turning the wrench CLOCKWISE.

I'm going to begin with the basics, b/c you are frustrated you may overlook things (I know I do when I'm pissed):

The fan is left hand thread (righty-loosey).

This has always worked for me: put the 32mm wrench on the fan nut, get a big dead blow hammer, whack that sucker! (protecting things in the way when the wrench turns from left to right). That should break it loose. If it doesn't, use the hammer in conjunction with a pry-bar to wedge in between the water pump nuts.

WOW!
 

Finally got the fan clutch off with multiple whacks from sledge hammer.

Okay...so the water pump was TOAST! Once I got the belt off, I could move the hub around like a ball joint...there was nothing left of the bearing.

I followed the instructions below, but I still can't believe I had to remove the freakin crank shaft pulley to get to the last bolt on the water pump. I also removed the throttle body to make it a little easier. This is a major, major, major job. I have never experienced a water pump replacement procedure like this before, and I've done quite a few of them on all kinds of different cars.

I found all kinds of stuff that looks like it needs to be replaced, but I'm not sure where to stop. I now have easy access to all the coolant lines, air lines, power steering pump lines, etc. The problem is, if I decide to make this my project car and order all the stuff I want to replace, I won't be able to buy my daily driver when I get paid again. Sigh.

E53 X5 4.4i Water Pump Repair DIY

You don't remove the crankshaft pulley, you sneak a 10mm wrench in there. And the TB doesn't need to be moved. Don't make it harder on yourself...

$10 says the internal bearing on the alternator is smoked.

Yeah, bearing failure. Mine went the same way around 3 yrs ago. When you said the whole motor moved foward I thought the issue was this.

I got my fan to pop loose with a 32oz ball peen hammer.

Seeing the belt is already off the crank pully is easy to remove.

Glad you got it going. You seem handy enough that making this a project car is the best bet. Check the belt tensioner and idler pulleys, as well as the belts themselves while you are in there. Also, the alternator should be closely evaluated. Clean everything up and call it a day.

Please note: you've got to just accept that an X5 isn't going to be as trouble free as your 5-series was. If you can't get over that, then dump the X5 as quickly as you can. It's not worth the frustration.

The plot thickens...
 

Okay...checked alternator...spins freely with little resistance and no hint of bearing noise. Belts are definitely getting replaced. Pulley wheels all seem okay...no squeaking or bearing noise.

Digging farther, now that I'm in this deep, I took the intake manifold off (that was a real treat) and found the following issues, other than the water pump, of course:

1. Oil separator lower line was completely split...oil everywhere.
(took all the plastic shroud out of the engine bay to gain access to rear of engine, but still can't see where that lower oil line connects. I'm guessing this is gonna require a mirror and some creative methods to replace)

2. Standing oil in the valley pan (no mystery here)

3. Little nipple on the rear intake cover (CCV?) at rear of intake manifold completely broken off.

4. All thin rubber air lines need to be replaced.

5. Looks like some of the intake manifold gaskets were leaking, as are the valve cover gaskets (assumed this already and have added to parts list).

My parts budget for this project is $400, but not sure I'll be able to get everything I need. If you guys know of a place that might sell parts cheaper than Pelican Parts, or if I should buy certain parts from the dealer to ensure BMW quality, I'd appreciate the info.

Also, for anyone who has removed their intake manifold...does your main alternator power line go over the driver side valve cover and get pinched between the water pump tubes and intake manifold? I found the routing of this large gauge wire to be a little strange and taking the long way for a short route. It mates with the battery terminal on the firewall that is used for jump starting, so why wouldn't they just route it along the fender?

At any rate, I have a feeling that once I get all this stuff done, it's going to fix my cold start problem and my overall idle problem, and quite possibly increase my MPG.