I think the OP bailed on his X.

There are many better choices out there, at least according to TV ads.

The Ford Focus is like driving a racecar......Nothing can break a Subaru......Nothing beats a RAV4 when it comes to surviving a zombie attack......When you drive a KIA XC or Lincoln you can park it at red carpets and walk into premiers and grand opening without being told to move it.

It really sucks driving an X.

I've noticed X5's do not like cold weather. Frozen PVC valve causes valley pan (v8) to leak on a cold start up, door seals stick, locks freeze, seat heaters are slow to warm, plastic radiator parts break, battery gives out, just to name a few gremlins. The AWD system feels secure in snow/ice. traveldad

Quit pegging my sarcasm meter. It's hard on it. :D

02 x5 4.6is that has been extremely well maintained and have owned it for about 9 months and 14,000 miles (127,000) and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country tomorrow. I love it to death and have replaced under my ownership DSC module, MAF, HVAC, and a steering column shaft U-joint. My friends drive Audis and Jeeps and theirs they wouldn't even trust to drive to the grocery store. I'm always getting calls to come pick them up because one of them broke down.

UPDATE
 

Sorry for the delay folks...although it has been quite entertaining reading everyone's comments. Finally got it to a shop with MAP gas and they torched the steering knuckle to red hot and whacked the ball joint with a pickle fork and a 10lb hammer...popped right out. However, no amount of MAP gas or hammering has been able to release the front brake discs, so I am going to take the entire front hub off and use a 2 ton press.

In other news, the ABS/DSC/BRAKE lights have been random, but lately are on all the time, which of course disables the speedometer, DSC, ABS, Odometer, and probably the tail lights for all I know. I have been reading quite a bit on how to use a multi-meter to read the proper oHms on the ABS sensors at the wheels, because replacing all 4 of them is a little pricey ($100 each) and might not even fix the problem. I normally wouldn't care about the ABS or the dash warning lights, but no spedometer and the upcoming Kansas blizzards with no DSC is a problem.

Also just replaced the front swaybar links which were $20 each and took me ten minutes, but still getting a very annoying rattle from the front right over bumps at low speed. The ONLY thing I haven't replaced on the front suspension so far is the wheel bearings and the struts/springs. (Of course it's gonna be the last thing I replace that fixes the problem). The bearings require removal of the brake disc, so that is where that project has stopped. The struts are too cost prohibitive for me right now.

On to the rear wheel camber problem that causes inner tire wear: I have replaced both rear ball joints and upper control arms and air springs in the rear, and the left wheel is nice and straight...perfectly vertical. The passenger doesn't look any better than it did before and leans in at the top about 15 degrees. Still scratching my balls...err...head on that one.

Also recently noticed that my idle is getting lower and lower. At stop lights with the car in Drive and foot on the brake, the whole vehicle vibrates just enough to be annoying, and the RPM sits still at 600. I used to put it in neutral at the stop lights to stop the vibration, and the RPM would climb to about 700. Today it's colder than usual and the idle is at 500 or maybe even a little below. Is there any way to adjust this just a little without programming the ECU? In the good ole days you just needed to turn a screw on the throttle body.

:dunno:

There several other rear suspension components such as tie rods that can cause the 15 degree lean, especially if something is bent. Did you have an alignment done after you replaced the ball joints and upper control arms? It is typical that the full suspension rebuild is due not that far beyond 80,000 miles.

I wouldn't be buying a ABS sensors without more troubleshooting. One reason many owners feel a X5 maintenance costs so much is they try to find a problem by replacing parts rather than spending enough troubleshooting time to pinpoint the root cause.

A bad wheel bearing will usually generate a grinding sound when turning one way or the other. I wouldn't replace a bearing or a strut until you have a much better idea where it is coming from.

I can't imagine what has caused the rotors to be that hard to remove. Have never seen a rotor that wouldn't come off with some PB blaster and a big hammer.

To address the low idle without spending many $$$. Pull the dipstick or the oil fill cover and with the X at an idle cover the hole with a piece from a garbage bag. CCV not working properly can mess with idle. If the CCV is working properly there should be vacuum that will pull the plastic in. Next check to see if the air filter needs replacement--just remove it and see if it runs better. Next check--disconnect the power to the MAF and see if the idle changes. If it doesn't remove the MAF and clean it with MAF spray--don't skimp on the spray and be sure to spray all the wire including the ones rather hidden.

Have you load tested the battery and monitored the alternator output? BMWs are sensitive to out of spec voltage which can cause a variety of strange lights. Also, I have caused ABS DSC lights to come on after working on the suspension. Cause was the level sensor links were turned toward the inside rather than toward the outside of the X-- though I also get an air suspension inactive error as well.

Things to try
 

Thanks BCred...I will try those things tonight or this weekend. The recent driver side CV shaft replacement was due to a busted boot and grease soaked everything on that side of the suspension. When I pulled out the ABS sensor it was caked with CV grease. I cleaned it all up with degreaser and hosed it down, let it sit in the sun most of the day, and *thought* I had dried everything off pretty good. No ABS light for a day or so and then it came on...I took it out last night and hit the hole that it goes into with cleaner and q-tips and they came out covered in grease and grime. 20 q-tips later, they were fairly dry and clean. I have a feeling I might need to take that wheel hub apart again and really get it squeaky clean to keep it from tripping the ABS warning.

One thread also mentioned that the small metal flakes from brake pads could cause the ABS to trip, but I am gonna take them all out tonight and clean them and inspect the blue connectors and maybe shoot some electric contact cleaner in there.

Good tips on checking the idle...I totally forgot about the oil cap test. I also remember on my 528i that the intake "accordian" boot on the throtle body was a common culprit for this...always split underneath where you couldn't see it.

I do need a 4-wheel alignment...been slacking. I've been trying to find a place around here that knows what they're doing.

:thumbup:

Little Elm, TX ?
 

HA! I just noticed you live in Little Elm! My Dad lives there...he moved there from McKinney a few years ago and before that, North Dallas. I was born in Dallas and spent almost every Summer there growing up.

Idle
 

So I looked at both intake boots and took them off...the intake elbow on the throttle body came off without loosening the retaining ring...hmmm...not good. Also, the rubber sleeve that the top part of the airbox fits into inside the MAF tube was crooked and partially stuffed inside the tube...also not good. I fixed both of those and inspected the elbows for leaks...looked fine. Put it all back together correctly and tight and idle still the same.

I guess my question is, what is normal idle at a stop light while in Drive with your foot on the brake? My X feels like I'm sitting on a giant subwoofer at low resonance and the interior rattles like crazy.

Here is a pic of me at a stop light in Drive with foot on the brake. I said before it was about 500 rpm, but now that I look at the gauge, the center mark between 0 and 1000 is not directly in the middle...so I'm curious if anyone else can tell me what their idle looks like at a stop light.

Um...okay...image attach didn't work. Here is a URL:

http://sunflower.com/~kcmoore/idle.jpg