Good job. Textbook jackstand placement too, right where the subframe is secured to the pass compartment cell.

They are Centric, got them from Amazon.

I paid 147.46 delivered 2 day thanks to Prime, not like it mattered I got them in early August. lol.

Amazon.com: Centric 125.34050 Front Brake Rotor: Automotive



I read the manual. lol

Thanks!

It's unreal how some will just use a flloorjack or mis-place the stands. Just watched a Wheeler Dealer where Ed had to repair a crushed/torn/rusted floorpan on an Alfa due to improper jacking/support. Important first step in DIYing that some overlook.

Multiple Personality Disorder
 

So the ABS/DSC/Brake lights have been on for a while now, despite me taking all the sensors out and cleaning them. Last night went to a friend's house and parked on a 40 degree incline driveway. Went out later, lights all still on. Parked again for the night on the driveway and applied e-brake. Left her house this morning and all lights off, speedo worked, everything was fine. Drove for 45 minutes with no issues/lights. Later this evening, went to the store, all lights back on and no speedo. Ghost in the machine? I'm at a loss.

send out the module for a repair - you have the contacts that are loose inside the module... you could do it yourself, but easier pay somebody a $100 and get a lifetime warranty... search ebay for bosch abs repair services, plenty out there...

It certainly could be a module problem though I would still do more troubleshooting to eliminate some other potential causes.

Have you used your Peake tool to see if there are any errors in the computer?

Also, BMWs are very sensitive to low or high voltage. The result can be strange things happening similar to what you are experiencing. I would have the battery load tested at a local auto parts store, it's usually free. I would also unlock the cluster and check the battery voltage after it has been sitting overnight and monitor the alternator to see what the voltage is running and watch for voltage less than 13v or over 13.8 or spikes over 14v.

For the future I suggest purchasing the following suite of software: BMW USB OBD Diagnostic Cable Inpa Ediabas Dis SSS GT1 | eBay You will need a Windows based computer with significant hard drive space. I have an old one I dedicated to the software. You can also purchase an app that will connect wirelessly so you can monitor the engine on the go.

Terminator: Can I still drive the car with the ABS module removed? I can't be without my car for even a single day right now.

BCred: That diagnostic cable/software is crazy cheap...gonna buy that today regardless. I have the original Peake R5 tool but I don't think it scans anything to do with ABS.

I will do the voltage check tonight and in the morning to see what's up. I'm pretty sure I have the original battery in there, which would mean it's 12 years old, but I haven't had any power issues at all, or any trouble starting in cold weather but who knows.

I remember in my 325i and 528i if the battery was low, the transmission would go into "safe mode" and be stuck in 4th gear. Amazed that a new battery brought the transmission back to life. Also bought several other E36 and E39's super cheap because the owners thought the transmission was fried and I fixed them all with new batteries and sold them for crazy profit (yes, I feel a little guilty, but knowledge is power!).

yes, you can drive with ABS module removed, try not to do some crazy stunts on the road... since the ABS is not there to count the miles, the LCM and IKE mileage will not go into tamper mode, but still, try not to do pizza delivery while the module is out...

OP / KC - First of all welcome back man. Thought we lost you there. So, the car is not a hulking burning heap yet! Brilliant! j/k.

Anyway... on your ABS issue, I noticed you mentioned you cleaned them and are still getting the ABS trifecta of lights.

Before you remove and send the ABS Module out, there are some more things you can check first. While the ABS Module is known to go bad, that has been more prevalent on the E39s and E38s.

On your ABS Sensors, were you able to test them with a Multi Meter on the Ohm setting to check continuity on them?

Where you able the check the connectors inside that little black plastic box in the wheel well? And also to check the wires in case any were frayed and possibly shorting out.

On these cars, usually the Rear Passenger side gone bad gives these type of symptoms - maybe find a spare or replace just that one first.

Also, on the actual ABS module, there is a sensor that can go bad and throw the ABS module into a frenzy. It is called a Pressure Sensor - Part # 34 51 1 165 467. See item number 3 in the diagram below:

http://ills.bmwfans.info/355e.png

Haha...no, the X still lives and has no burn marks on it...yet.

I looked at my ABS module this morning, and it's got quite a bit of oil or power steering fluid on it (both leaks were remedied a few weeks ago) and I noticed that the pressure sensor you mention is soaked. Will take the headlight out and clean it all up tonight.

Also, I haven't found a clear and concise source for exactly how to test the ABS sensors. I have pulled them all out of their blue connectors to verify solid connection and to clean them, and verified continuity from end to end while connected with my multi-meter. I did find a local parts dealer that has the ABS sensors for $80 each, but they are aparently different for front and rear. I had thought of buying one and just using it to figure out which one was bad, but if the front and rear really are different (not just length of cable or connector type), that would mean $160 in diagnosis cost. I don't have a lot of money to burn right now because of all the suspension parts I've had to replace lately.