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I pulled my rotors today. Was simple. Pulled tires, removed allen retainer bolt practically fell off. You did remove the allen right?

Left out removed calipers, suspended them with wire.

Yeah I removed the allen bolt...this ain't my first rodeo. However, I have yet to try the method of removing that bolt and putting the wheel back on and driving for a bit and hitting the brakes. Nor have I put one of the lug nuts in and hit it with a hammer...not sure if I want to try that for fear of breaking the lugnut off in the wheel hub or messing up the threads. That would suck.

The brake discs are the least of my concerns at the moment...just frustrating that they are so hard to get off...kinda like my ex wife. :)

My main concern right now is the ABS sensor failure and trying to determine which one has failed, or if it's the ABS control module, which is conveniently located far below the power steering fluid reseviour and radiator expansion tank.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCMoore2013 (Post 963911)

Yes I did would have sufficed. It seems given the choice between nice & rude you go rude.

Good luck with your X, I hope you work out your issues.

Sorry E30...was not my intention to be rude. It was a valid question.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCMoore2013 (Post 963880)

Thanks BCred...I will try those things tonight or this weekend. The recent driver side CV shaft replacement was due to a busted boot and grease soaked everything on that side of the suspension. When I pulled out the ABS sensor it was caked with CV grease. I cleaned it all up with degreaser and hosed it down, let it sit in the sun most of the day, and *thought* I had dried everything off pretty good. No ABS light for a day or so and then it came on...I took it out last night and hit the hole that it goes into with cleaner and q-tips and they came out covered in grease and grime. 20 q-tips later, they were fairly dry and clean. I have a feeling I might need to take that wheel hub apart again and really get it squeaky clean to keep it from tripping the ABS warning.

One thread also mentioned that the small metal flakes from brake pads could cause the ABS to trip, but I am gonna take them all out tonight and clean them and inspect the blue connectors and maybe shoot some electric contact cleaner in there.

Good tips on checking the idle...I totally forgot about the oil cap test. I also remember on my 528i that the intake "accordian" boot on the throtle body was a common culprit for this...always split underneath where you couldn't see it.

I do need a 4-wheel alignment...been slacking. I've been trying to find a place around here that knows what they're doing.

:thumbup:

When I want to make sure there is no grease on a part I go to my trusty can of lacquer thinner. Cleans great and leaves the part dry. Can't leave it on rubber or plastic very long--attacks them- but otherwise have found nothing that tops it. Not good to leave it on your hands very long either but I never wear any protection.

Yes, a break in the intake tube is fairly common and since it is past the MAF the air/fuel mixture will be affected. One other thing that I would do is have a smoke pressure test done to find any vacuum leaks. A home brew method is to spray starting fluid anywhere there could be a vacuum leak. The engine RPM will increase if the fluid is drawn in. You can also do the test with an unlit propane torch---there is some potential for a fire so be sure to be prepared. However, I have found the shade tree test didn't find leaks that the smoke test did.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCMoore2013 (Post 963881)

HA! I just noticed you live in Little Elm! My Dad lives there...he moved there from McKinney a few years ago and before that, North Dallas. I was born in Dallas and spent almost every Summer there growing up.

Another confirmation of the 6 degrees of separation.

Little Elm is in a booming area. We have been here 10 years and really like the area.

Quote:

Originally Posted by e30cabrio (Post 963896)

I pulled my rotors today. Was simple. Pulled tires, removed allen retainer bolt practically fell off......

After over 4 yrs and over 75k miles, my rotors were free when the capscrews were removed. Made sure I wire brushed, solvent wiped and applied a THIN coating of copper base anti-seize to the contact surfaces prior to re-assembly, a step ignored on the OPs X on a previous rotor install. This step ensures ZERO intrusion of moisture/salts into the mating surfaces and results in easy future removal.

Many repair shops/dealerships neglect the details of proper repair. The results are "a job, well........done." instead of "a job well done!".

Techs pay/incentive is based solely on speed and no return for 1 yr, details take time, and service managers couldn't care less if stuff is rusted together years after their shop cut corners. They even have the nads to blame manufacturers when techs neglect to use torque wrenches and strip fasteners (been DIYing on Vipers, Vettes, BMWs for over 20 yrs and have YET to strip a fastener). That's why most DIY.

I was expecting some friction between the hub and rotor at least. I literally had to hold it on to keep it from dropping off.

Driver side on!
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps49bc8599.jpg

Pass side which also got a new axle:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps5658dff4.jpg

Man that axle job was a stinker.

Used the old rotor to pound the axle into the hub:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps2351d8e8.jpg

Nice rotors, I like the black rotor hats! Where did you get those?

And good idea for getting the axle back in by pounding on the old rotor, nice!