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  #11  
Old 08-11-2011, 10:19 PM
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Rez Rez is offline
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haha, nice. Poker game I mean....
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2011, 04:16 AM
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OK, I am back.
I only had a chance to make one full blast. But I did not have my Passport Gmeter with me.

But like I mentioned before. The install was a little odd. When the modded tune was loaded into my ECU, the truck did all sorts of weird things. The air pump in the back stayed running the entire time??? The main NAV screen alternated between two warnings.
The dash alternated between warnings as well.(see pics)

Then when it was loaded, I started it up and the check engine light was ON!!!!
I tried cycling the start up a few times and it was still there. But I had left the charger on the battery, and when I unhooked it, the light went out.
once that happened all warnings were gone and all was well.

Now back to the performance. on my LC thread I mentioned that the truck had a lag when using the LC. It was like a hesitation. And anyone who has drag raced knows that how hard you leave the line is what determines low ETs. having a hesitation on the line drastically effects ET. A tenth lower in the 60ft is usually 2-3 tenths lower in the 1/4.
Well, with this new tune, that hesitation is GONE!!!! You let the brake go and the truck is moving. This alone will improve 0-60 and 1/4 times. It tachs up faster, shifts seems smoother. driveability is exactly the same. It does feel a little quicker in the comfort mode as well.
I did also hit it at highway speeds and it tachs up faster. I only got it up to 130-135, so I have no idea if the top end limiter is removed.
When I get a chance i will check it with my Gmeter. I KNOW it picked up

another few notes:
The M Mode settings all were reset after the new tune.
and
that running fan I heard after the truck is shut off?? It is gone??!!




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  #13  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:14 AM
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Interesting. That's weird about the warnings and lights. I'm glad it all went away, though...

Looking at the dyno graph, it seems that most of the additional torque is in the midrange, so you should be feeling it most there with even normal driving. It's interesting also that you mention shifting is smoother. Shift points should be addressed by the TCU, no? I didn't think shifting would be affected by the ECU upgrade. If it does, maybe when I do it they can remove the early 1-2 up shift at 6500 rpm...unless this is a programmed thing by BMW that goes away after a certain number of miles.

I'm looking forward to a good timed run! You should have picked up a few tenths and mph.
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  #14  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:50 AM
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I think it shifts smoother because it revs up faster. Roman did say the redline has been bumped slightly.
I am going to put a full tank of gas in and time some runs just like my baseline.
I am going to bet it does 0-60 in 3.9 to 4.0
I am going to bet it does the 1/4 in [email protected]+

I used to only get the eary 1-2 shift when it is in comfort mode. I did not notice if the tune changes that.
In Sport, it always revs up past that.
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:03 AM
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What I do not understand on the ESS Dyno sheet, is how come torque and HP do not intersect at 5252RPM???
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:11 AM
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Because they are using different scales...torque on the right of the graph and HP on the left. I think they are doing this for appearance because it makes it easier to see the HP graph, which people usually care more about.
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2011, 07:12 AM
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OK, I made a few passes.

Temp was 63
but Humidity was 92%
Fuel level was slight above 3/4

First pass, felt like it left a OK. But at the very end of the run, a car did a three lane change ahead of me and I lifted the throttle.
But results still looked promising
60ft 1.75
0-60 3.97
1/4 [email protected]

Second pass, I waited the the entire 5 lanes was clear before LC.
I also have been practicing the LC and I tried my new way. Instead of holding the brake and depressing the throttle until the flag comes on. I basically flashed the converter. I held the brake and snapped the throttle and the second the flag came on, I let the brake go. At street lights my truck always seem to feel like it left harder this way.

I leave the line and it feels good. I held it down all the way through and I am more then happy.
60ft 1.70
0-60 3.62
1/4 [email protected]
Now that is a BIG improvement. MPH increase shows actually HP increase.
and that is a big gain.

Personally I think ESS has a VERY conservative dyno sheet.
I cannot wait for cooler weather and a lighter set of tires.
and maybe some high octane race gas???
My hat is off to Roman and crew at ESS Tuning!!!!
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2011, 08:35 AM
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Wow. That's VERY impressive.
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2011, 08:50 AM
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Now think about this...I talked to one of the forged wheel companies to get a weight on 1-piece forged wheels in stock sizes. The fronts would be around 26 lbs and the rears 29 lbs...so each front is 15 lbs lighter than stock and each rear is 13.5 lbs lighter than stock. Adding it up, that's a whopping 57 lbs of rotating unsprung mass being dropped. Add in the tires (using Michelin Diamaris as an example), and that's an almost unbelievable 93 lbs of rotating mass that can be dropped. I've never heard of anything like that. In most cars, the only way to drop 93 lbs of rotating mass is to remove the wheels completely. But then the car wouldn't exactly be faster. :-)

I can't imagine what this thing can do with chip AND lightweight wheels/tires. Mid 11s? The only caveat is its probably best not to go with race lightening or anything along those lines for any aftermarket wheels as that may make the wheel too weak to handle the X5's weight. But those numbers I got for weight were for standard 1- piece forged.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2011, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeM3 View Post
Now think about this...I talked to one of the forged wheel companies to get a weight on 1-piece forged wheels in stock sizes. The fronts would be around 26 lbs and the rears 29 lbs...so each front is 15 lbs lighter than stock and each rear is 13.5 lbs lighter than stock. Adding it up, that's a whopping 57 lbs of rotating unsprung mass being dropped. Add in the tires (using Michelin Diamaris as an example), and that's an almost unbelievable 93 lbs of rotating mass that can be dropped. I've never heard of anything like that. In most cars, the only way to drop 93 lbs of rotating mass is to remove the wheels completely. But then the car wouldn't exactly be faster. :-)

I can't imagine what this thing can do with chip AND lightweight wheels/tires. Mid 11s? The only caveat is its probably best not to go with race lightening or anything along those lines for any aftermarket wheels as that may make the wheel too weak to handle the X5's weight. But those numbers I got for weight were for standard 1- piece forged.

I agree. Keep in mind this is a 5500lb tank. there is probably a reason the factory wheels are so heavy duty. I had very lightweight wheels on my drag car. But those wheels were not able to be driven on the street. Potholes would have taken them out on the first hit. A set of aftermarket lightweight wheels on this truck would probably not live very long. It hits potholes very hard as is.
I think I am going to leave the factory wheel(maybe powdercoat them) and get a set of Conti all seasons and just leave it like that.
I do think i will pick up a set of K&N drop ins. They cost very little and it can't hurt.
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