HELP!! Car Not Starting. - Page 5

Juggernaunt911 · #41 11-29-2015, 05:13 PM

Thanks for the info. I think this test would be relevant if we did not know where the power is being drawn from, but in my case we know it's a result of the car not actually going into "sleep" mode and fully turning off. The question is what is actually causing this.

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upallnight · #42 11-29-2015, 05:16 PM

What's keeping up the car is your amperage draw, the car will not go to sleep until the amperage draw fall below a certain level. Because the amperage draw is there, the computer is not letting the car go into sleep mode.

sunny5280 · #43 11-29-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juggernaunt911

Thanks for the info. I think this test would be relevant if we did not know where the power is being drawn from, but in my case we know it's a result of the car not actually going into "sleep" mode and fully turning off. The question is what is actually causing this.

A way to test this is to start pulling fuses until you see the current draw decreases (i.e. using a multimeter as previously mentioned...ensure you set the current setting on the multimeter to the highest number and work your way down).

Juggernaunt911 · #44 11-30-2015, 11:31 AM

Thanks for the suggestions and will try a parasitic test tonight and see what I come up with. On spec I also disconnected blower motor resistor but that did not seem to help.

deuchant420 · #45 11-30-2015, 02:24 PM

I am having a very similar problem. Was travelling this weekend and I came out to start the X5 on the first cold morning it has seen this year and it cranked, but would not start. My first guess was the fuel pump because I couldn't hear it prime. I checked voltage at the fuse #47 on my vehicle and it showed sub 11V, not sure if this is normal or not. It showed the same sub 11V at the fuel pump. I ended up hot wiring it from the jumper posts in the engine compartment which showed 12V. I let it run and switched on the ignition and it started right up. Did you try hot wiring the pump? How many volts are you getting at the fuse and at the pump?

Juggernaunt911 · #46 11-30-2015, 03:19 PM

Interesting, I cant recall the exact voltage reading at the pump or fuse 47 and have not tried hot wiring it either. Did you hotwire directly from the jumper terminals to the fuse?

CapeX5 · #47 11-30-2015, 04:40 PM

You 2 are playing with fire "jumping" fuel pumps etc. What a waste of time and you are not finding anything out as far as diagnostics go. These cars need a steady 12+volts to operate. Start with a good source(battery/alternator) than go from there. Your statement of removing the blower motor resistor and it not helping. Did you do a amperage draw before and after? Not trying to be a jerk here, but you are asking for help, we are directing you on what to do and you continue to take random stabs at solutions. We are all in support of DIY, but this can also be a great source of learning if you will follow the lead of others who have been there. These are expensive cars and they need to be dealt with accordingly using the right methods/tools/diagnostics. Jumping fuel pumps from a battery post is NOT the way to go about it.

Juggernaunt911 · #48 11-30-2015, 04:53 PM

Battery is fully charged at the moment. I will run through some further diagnostic tests to help determine where my source is for my parasitic draw is coming from that is step 1.

deuchant420 · #49 11-30-2015, 05:47 PM

I did jump mine from the jumper terminals. I had no choice as I was stranded 900 miles from home. I would not recommend it unless you are confident in your abilities

hunds02 · #50 01-22-2019, 01:47 PM

Resurrecting this thread as I believe I have the same issue as the OP and did not want to start a new thread.

It looks like there was no solution to the crank, no start problem, other than troubleshooting and problem went away...

Problem Summary:
The issue I am having appears to be related to the weather. Car has not exhibited any ignition or performance issues up until yesterday when I tried to start the car at 10 degrees F (6:30 AM). The engine failed to start after the starter was cranking for a long time. After a few more attempts, it would finally start and would run smooth the whole drive (25 miles, mostly highway). I drove it again during my lunch break (noonish) and again at 5 PM when I left work to go home, with no starting issues whatsoever.

The next day (today), same issue occurred, but this time I failed to get the engine running. After the excessive cranking, the battery started to lose juice and thus not enough juice to start the engine.

Based off this, I don't believe the issue is related to battery or alternator as there was plenty of juice to be able to start the engine. It only ran out because of several attempts of cranking for 5-10 seconds each time.

Because it is very cold, I decided to get it towed to a mechanic down the street and the car has not been serviced yet. I am hoping I can get some ideas before they call me back.

Here are some possible ideas I have gathered and not sure if I am missing something:

Fuel Delivery (Fuel Pump / Filter): I will ask the technician to check the fuel rail pressure. Although not sure if this makes sense since it ran fine yesterday and if it was truly a faulty pump, then the motor would have shut off during my drive.

Battery / Alternator: Again, don't think this is the issue, but I think the issue is cold weather related and batteries do not like the cold.

Crankshaft Position Sensor: Not really sure, would cold wintry weather cause this part to fail? I don't believe this part has been replaced and at the car's age and mileage I am most likely overdue on this life of this part.

Ignition Switch In my opinion, this is probably the culprit. Bad contacts maybe?

In summary, all I really know at this point is that when its really really cold, it will not start. I am willing to bet when they service the car later today it will probably start since it warmed up a little bit. This issue occurred yesterday when the temperatures dipped to single digits the previous night. Prior to that, it was in the 20's and I have never had this issue before.

My car is a 2005 X5 3.0i with 196k

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