Former E46fanatic, new E53 owner

[andrewwynn]

Use the hidden menu to know


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[Overboost]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Beg to differ on 500 normal. Our two M54 idle around 700-750. I just found a YouTube video where a guy shows how to adjust up from factory 700 to 750.

https://youtu.be/U0p4KoDasg0

Wish that feature was available in INPA. Was that DIS?

[bcredliner]

I don't remember but there might be a test function that shows RPMs if you open the cluster. Otherwise, there are apps and code readers that provide realtime info. I don't know the exact RPMs showing. Usually about that amount over the first mark is fine. That was my reference. Many M54s idle at 650rpms and many 750. Regardless of what the idle spec is the engine should not miss where the needle is in the picture. When you determine the idle rpms the engine should be at operating temp. Check with air off and as little electrical load to show max idle. Then turn everything on and check the idle rpm again to verify it recovers, doesn't drop at all or not enough to matter.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Wish that feature was available in INPA. Was that DIS?

I have a schwaben scanner and it gives real time data and allows you to adjust the idle speed. Foxwell should allow you to do the same. I moved mine up to 722 as it was idling about 692 and would drop a lot when the AC kicked on. It idles smoother at 722 as well.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I have a schwaben scanner and it gives real time data and allows you to adjust the idle speed. Foxwell should allow you to do the same. I moved mine up to 722 as it was idling about 692 and would drop a lot when the AC kicked on. It idles smoother at 722 as well.

Nice!

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I have a schwaben scanner and it gives real time data and allows you to adjust the idle speed. Foxwell should allow you to do the same. I moved mine up to 722 as it was idling about 692 and would drop a lot when the AC kicked on. It idles smoother at 722 as well.

Have Schwaben. Even as priced it is great value and very intuitive to use. If you plan on DIYing for several years don't bother purchasing a cheap one. You will end up with buying two or three more and have invested more than buying a full featured one in the first place.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Have Schwaben. Even as priced it is great value and very intuitive to use. If you plan on DIYing for several years don't bother purchasing a cheap one. You will end up with buying two or three more and have invested more than buying a full featured one in the first place.

[andrewwynn]

I bought the foxwell NT510. Found out that it will pull codes for cars you don't own the module for. It just takes an extra step but won't do active testing.

I paid about $200. For $70each can add up to 4 more brands over the one included.

I bought the 20 pin adapter since wife's car is a "2000.5" e53 with the under hood 20-pin port. Bummer is that it still wouldn't reset the oil service light I had to use a jumper wire.


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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs;

I have a schwaben scanner and it gives real time data and allows you to adjust the idle speed. Foxwell should allow you to do the same. I moved mine up to 722 as it was idling about 692 and would drop a lot when the AC kicked on. It idles smoother at 722 as well.

I think they are the same hardware inside. I'm about to do some work on my car and will check it out. I can't find a way to read the voltage/current on the O2 heater which is throwing a code even though it's getting power (just apparently not enough)

[Red911t]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Unless pulling a trailer you shouldn't need to change transmission fluid for another 100,000 miles. Search the forum for another new-to-me owner we went through a big checklist of stuff to look for. You are way ahead of the curve since there is very little recommend maintenance before 100k

That said stay ahead of the curve and I recommend removing the metal plate under the engine at least annually to find all the things it's hiding.

Also some time before 100,000 there are a few things that you can likely prevent from breaking with some preventive maintenance:

1) spray some lubrication on the window rails: my driver window sped up 60% indicating nearly double the force on the window before the treatment; leave that alone and expect to replace window regulator

Well, just had two issues with BOTH rear windows. Got into the office this morning, went to put up the passenger rear window which I had open about 2 inches. Nothing, no movement up or down or noises from the window. Went to test the left rear window to see if it goes up or down and as it is going down from pushing the button, it goes down very quickly...and won't go back up. Guess that the regulator died there, but there is a whirring noise when I push the button up and down, so I am correct in guess the regulator on the driver side broke and the motor on the passenger side is dead (since I'm not hearing anything when pushing the rear passenger window button up or down on that side)?

Not ideal considering there is some rain in forecast today but rest of weekend looks fairly sunny, but obviously need to address this quickly.

Thanks in advance,
Tim