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  #51  
Old 07-20-2018, 04:16 AM
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  #52  
Old 07-25-2018, 10:49 AM
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Got my GAS DISA repair kit in the mail yesterday, pulled the unit and swapped in the new parts...voila! Works like a charm now, though it was tight getting in there with the new O ring...had to be careful not to strip the torx bolts putting it back in. Really nice little kit that was easy to put together.

Car runs great....except the rumble at idle, in drive, is still present. On to the next checklist item: pulling the lower intake boot, cleaning the ICV, and swapping in a new lower intake boot.
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  #53  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:11 PM
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Don't cheap on the instake boot. i bought a knock off simply because the OEM didn't have prime shipping. The idiot copy cat copied the outside of the mold not the inside so the couregation that allows it to flex was just thick ribs. Amazing.

I ended up having to super glue my old cut in pieces one back together while sending back the worthless one for OEM.

Check your idle speed with the hidden menu.
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  #54  
Old 07-25-2018, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Don't cheap on the instake boot. i bought a knock off simply because the OEM didn't have prime shipping. The idiot copy cat copied the outside of the mold not the inside so the couregation that allows it to flex was just thick ribs. Amazing.

I ended up having to super glue my old cut in pieces one back together while sending back the worthless one for OEM.

Check your idle speed with the hidden menu.

Was it a URO boot you ordered that was crappy?

Just checked idle speed - in Park it is idling at 715. In drive with foot on brake itís 600. No vibration in Park but decent vibration in drive






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  #55  
Old 07-26-2018, 10:44 PM
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Took apart the intake, pulled the DISA again, got the ICV out and took the lower intake boot out.

Two thoughts 1) those brake booster lines off the lower boot are stubborn and 2) WTF was BMW thinking with the hose clamps facing down and rearward behind a sea of wires and no access?? A ploy to boost their billable shop hours?

Fortunately my stubby flat head was able to sneak in there and loosen the clamps.

Findings - 1) the flex arm on the old boot was torn in two spots. 2) the ICV was barely moving. Cleaned that up on both sides and got some nice movement going there now. Was a pain to get that and the inner little stubby hose back on but got it going.

Everything back together and the car seems to be running and idling better! Still a small vibration at idle in drive but we will see if that persists/gets worse/better.

If it doesnít I think Iím on to spark plugs next since there is a receipt for valve cover gasket 3 years ago but no receipt for plugs so those might need a freshening.


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  #56  
Old 07-26-2018, 11:02 PM
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I had the same WTF question about the hose clamp from the bottom. Clearly that is installed before the engine is put into the car.

I cut my boot in half with a razor knife to get a normal but driver on there with my impact tool and 90į adapter.


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  #57  
Old 01-29-2019, 03:07 PM
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Haven't been working on the car in awhile since I've been busy with a 4 year old, 9 month old, and a business, and have just dealt with the vibration at idle. My mechanic (who is general tech that I use for inspection stickers) thinks the vibration is not too bad and that it's probably engine mounts....to me however it still seems to vibrate significantly more than it should.

All that to say I replaced the spark plugs....they were definitely due for a change but that did not solve the vibration at idle. I guess I'm on to CCV next? Or any other spots you would suggest after replacing intake boots, doing the DISA, cleaning ICV, and swapping plugs?

I may just go to get a Foxwell scanner and bump the idle RPM to 750 since the vibration goes away at that level....even though I know that probably masks whatever the underlying issue may be (though if it truly is motor mounts then it wouldn't be a engine running problem)
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  #58  
Old 01-29-2019, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red911t View Post
Haven't been working on the car in awhile since I've been busy with a 4 year old, 9 month old, and a business, and have just dealt with the vibration at idle. My mechanic (who is general tech that I use for inspection stickers) thinks the vibration is not too bad and that it's probably engine mounts....to me however it still seems to vibrate significantly more than it should.

All that to say I replaced the spark plugs....they were definitely due for a change but that did not solve the vibration at idle. I guess I'm on to CCV next? Or any other spots you would suggest after replacing intake boots, doing the DISA, cleaning ICV, and swapping plugs?

I may just go to get a Foxwell scanner and bump the idle RPM to 750 since the vibration goes away at that level....even though I know that probably masks whatever the underlying issue may be (though if it truly is motor mounts then it wouldn't be a engine running problem)
I have a similar issue with mine. I bumped the idle up and that took care of most of it, but when stopped and in drive the rpm's drop low enough that it vibrates. I've taken to pushing it into neutral to avoid the annoyance.
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  #59  
Old 01-29-2019, 03:59 PM
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Mine vibrates too. I have wondered if it's a failing harmonic balancer? Since I just acquired mine, I have other higher priority issues I'm currently dealing with, but I definitely have noticed the low rpm vibration.

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  #60  
Old 01-29-2019, 10:16 PM
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you should also check the little vacuum cap/caps on the back of the intake toward the firewall, around the corner from the intake boot. you replace them by hand just wedging you hand back there. you can replace with something from the generic parts rack at autozone. if the intake boot and new disa seal partially fixed the issue I’d wager you just need to keep after the vacuum leaks. ultimately the smoke test might be the best way to do that.
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