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  #41  
Old 07-13-2018, 04:56 PM
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Well, regulator cable on driver rear door broke and the motor died on the passenger rear door. Within 15 minutes of each other lol

Took apart the doors for the first time and installed new regulators and motors in both doors. Hardest part was getting door back in and fitting the bracket behind the door handle latch connector and the plastic trim. What a pain! Also annoyingly both windows were stuck and the bolt to detach them from the regulator was nowhere near accessible with my tools. Had to finagle the regulators down to a biazarre angle to get acces.




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  #42  
Old 07-16-2018, 09:12 PM
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Tonightís project oil change to freshen the fluids. Assume they changed it each year at inspection, but again very little info on how often this was done considering that only a couple hundred miles were put on in the last few years. In other words i needed some peace of mind. Filter was nasty but no metal bits on the drain plug which is good.

New Mann filter and Castrol synthetic 5w30 /exits thread before oil flame war starts




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  #43  
Old 07-16-2018, 09:14 PM
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Hereís a shot of how she sits today. Love the Sterling Grey color more and more. Cleans up really well and wears great even with some dirt.




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  #44  
Old 07-16-2018, 10:45 PM
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Welcome to the club.

Couple of things
1 - that photo immediately above seems to show an extreme amount of negative camber on the right rear wheel. Is that due to something you know about? Optical illusion? Do you have excessive tire wear on the inside edges of the rear wheels? If so, that is a common issue, although usually at higher mileage than you've got.

2 - just a thought for something to check on the steering wheel vibration. Intermittent vibrations are always tough to track down, so it might be worth checking ... The u-joint in the steering column can get a little weird on these trucks. Something like a $500 part to replace if needed. But in my case, I had some looseness in the steering and it turned out it was just that the u-joint was a little loose on the column there. I just had to loosen it (not remove), carefully center it, and re-tighten the set screws with loctite. Before doing that, I could visually see the u-joint was loose by having my son wiggle the steering wheel while I looked at the joint to see what was moving. Perfectly tight afterwards, and I keep it well greased since they do eventually wear out.

BTW, nice 911, I've got a 1985 cabriolet garage queen.

And hey, are you sure that photo was taken in Philly? I grew up in Allentown, and I don't think I ever saw blue sky in the summer months. 90+ degrees, 95+% humidity, overcast, every day ... doesn't get any better than this. Luckily I did not know any better at the time. Maybe I was just in the wrong part of town.
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  #45  
Old 07-16-2018, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Shake more in reverse or drive? Wife's car needed CV axle at 110 slop in axle made car shake and rattle especial in reverse. Very early for CV but worth looking at to confirm it isn't that
My 2003 4.6is has steering shake in reverse, and Once it starts shaking, itíll shake again slightly when I put it back to drive.

Any ideas? My indie shop mentioned engine mount replacement and u-joint replacement as possible remedies. But he canít be sure itíll fix the steering shakes.

Iím 2,000 miles away from 100,000.
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  #46  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:00 AM
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Former E46fanatic, new E53 owner

Check the idle RPM you may just need to bump it up a bit: run the AC and see if that smooths the shake then check the steering u-joint as mentioned.

My wife's idle rattle was the CV joint but that will only be the problem if exhibits in gear not neutral. The pulses of the engine torque will remove the slop in any drivetrain part and cause a ripple of motion.

You may be able to feel CV slop with one wheel off the ground and turn wheel by hand. Maybe hold the front drive shaft from moving at the guibo .

If you get a shake that disappears with higher RPM figure out what RPM smooths it out. Learn how to use the hidden menu as one option is RPM.

I thought my neg camber was too high but then I put my iPhone on the wheel and measured and it was within spec. That said a few months later the other side is showing enough wear on the inside edge of the tire I'm confident in a worn bushing and plan to replace. I already have a new-to-me tire (70% tread for 70% discount) I'll keep the worn on the edge tire for emergency spare it's not worn smooth more like starting to cup badly.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-17-2018 at 10:08 AM.
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  #47  
Old 07-17-2018, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post

I thought my neg camber was too high but then I put my iPhone on the wheel and measured and it was within spec. That said a few months later the other side is showing enough wear on the inside edge of the tire I'm confident in a worn bushing and plan to replace. I already have a new-to-me tire (70% tread for 70% discount) I'll keep the worn on the edge tire for emergency spare it's not worn smooth more like starting to cup badly.


Camber is definitely negative but hard to say how much so given negative camber is standard on these. Tires are brand new continentals that were put on before purchase so I have little gauge on how quickly they wear on the inner edge. Something Iíll be monitoring closely.

Alarm started going off randomly today after locking. Pulled the hood sensor plug and that cleared it up. Will either buy a sensor off eBay or see about putting a small button on the underside of hood to ensure it is depressed.

Shot of the wheel in fender on a more level surface as my work parking lot slopes in the opposite direction in that prior pic.


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  #48  
Old 07-17-2018, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Welcome



2 - just a thought for something to check on the steering wheel vibration. Intermittent vibrations are always tough to track down, so it might be worth checking ... The u-joint in the steering column can get a little weird on these trucks. Something like a $500 part to replace if needed. But in my case, I had some looseness in the steering and it turned out it was just that the u-joint was a little loose on the column there. Im



BTW, nice 911, I've got a 1985 cabriolet garage queen.



And hey, are you sure that photo was taken in Philly? I grew up in Allentown, and I don't think I ever saw blue sky in the summer months. 90+ degrees, 95+% humidity, overcast, every day ... doesn't get any better than this. Luckily I did not know any better at the time. Maybe I was just in the wrong part of town.

Will try this idea out. So far I need to pull DISA and intake boot to inspect for any cracks or leaks there but will as this to the list.

Whatís the spec on your 911? Have always love G series cars, first 911 I drove was an 83 SC cabrio, fond memories of that car.

It is Philly burbs ! And it has been a soupy summer, happened to snag that pic on a good day



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  #49  
Old 07-19-2018, 10:54 PM
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Pulled off the upper intake boot tonight, no rips or tears in that. Pulled off the DISA and that was completely floppy with no vacuum on the bottom pin hole and the o ring smushed. Iíve been hearing a slight hiss from there so I think that might be the culprit.

Was going to take off the idle control valve as well and clean it but the lower intake boot was being stubborn and I didnít want to rip it and create a bigger issue so Iíll wait to do that until I have the DISA rebuild kit in hand and a spare boot if I need it


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  #50  
Old 07-19-2018, 10:59 PM
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You can use Teflon tape to replace disa seal. If flap broken but vacuum working repair with titanium/aluminum for 1/3 the price.


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