Anyone ever replaced Rear Control Arm Bushings?

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Did you do the rear ball joints when you did the work on the rear or just the upper arms and lower control arm bushings?

I really need to do my rear ball joints, I'm sure. I am getting the itch to do mine, I'm sure they are beat at 175,000 miles.

EVERY BUSHING AND BALL JOINT I COULD FIND WAS REPLACED! So Rear ball joints on the spindle carrier, integral links, LOWER control (swing) arm bushings, both upper control arms, sway bar end links. Front torque arm bushings, ball joints, lower control arms, sway bar end links. The tie rod ends were in perfect shape as they were replaced 18 months ago (approx 10k miles).

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by bhennrich

EVERY BUSHING AND BALL JOINT I COULD FIND WAS REPLACED! So Rear ball joints on the spindle carrier, integral links, LOWER control (swing) arm bushings, both upper control arms, sway bar end links. Front torque arm bushings, ball joints, lower control arms, sway bar end links. The tie rod ends were in perfect shape as they were replaced 18 months ago (approx 10k miles).

Thank you for the reply. I have also done the complete front ball joints, thrust arms and control arms and upper arms on the rear were replaced with Hard Race adjustable arms and toe links but need to replace the integral links and ball joints. Did you do the rear ball joints in the car and what mobile press did you use?

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Thank you for the reply. I have also done the complete front ball joints, thrust arms and control arms and upper arms on the rear were replaced with Hard Race adjustable arms and toe links but need to replace the integral links and ball joints. Did you do the rear ball joints in the car and what mobile press did you use?

I used a BFH (Big Fu***ng Hammer) for removal as pressing without the BMW specific tool proved to be futile. Absolutely douched everything in PB Blaster then used a torch to heat around the ball joint. Just swing for the fences and they popped out. I used the autozone 23 piece press kit to put the new one in. I froze all my bushings and ball joints in my -10 deep freezer and coated everything in copper anti seize. Everything went fairly amazing


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[EODguy]

Copper anti-seize....

Why didn't I think of that?

If you had said that before I did mine I would have bought you beer and a pork sandwich (which over here is cost more than gold) just for the idea..

Glad everything came together for you easier than mine!!

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[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by EODguy

Copper anti-seize....

Why didn't I think of that?

If you had said that before I did mine I would have bought you beer and a pork sandwich (which over here is cost more than gold) just for the idea..

Glad everything came together for you easier than mine!!

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I have found VERY few situations where painting copper anti seize on everything in site is a bad idea (yes I know not to coat rotor or contact surface of pads with the stuff) but in most every other situation it makes a bit of a mess but when you come back to it later... I keep like 3 bottles of the stuff spread out in all corners of my garage so it is always at arms reach


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[EODguy]

I now have it added to my list to order from Big PX land

Here lately I seem to be reading things on here and then having whatever I read about happen to my X...

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[StephenVA]

Using the ball joint tool make the job safe and easy. Approx 10 mins a side. I have now done three sets of these ball joint. The tool is simple to use, keeps the new joint square when you pull the new ball joint in, and will not remove any material in the swing arm. Note: Make sure you apply lots of of your favorite WD-40/PB Blaster rust penetration spray on these areas 24 hrs before you start, as many of these ball joints hang in salt spray all winter long year after year including the CA "beach surfer" crowd users.

Using copper anti-seize will makes disassembly easy for any future tasks. Especially true on wheels, rotor to hub, etc where you are into them on a 2-4 times annual bases. Pulling the wheels off and doing a proper cleaning (wash, scrub tires, clay wheel, wax, protection on the inside and out side of the tires will keep your X happy and all shiny...

[Overboost]

Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800028~bav/

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-869...all+joint+tool

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?

Either will do the job.

THE CTA tool has a bearing built into the center where you crank on the hardened nut to press the bushing in or out. I am not sure the Bavauto tool has it.

At the moment, I have 4 cars with these rear ball joints (2 x5's & 2 E39's). I bought the CTA tool thinking it would more smoothly remove/install and might last longer. It worked great the one time I have used it so far. If you go the CTA route, make sure you get a 26mm deep-ish socket or box end wrench to turn the nut.

[StephenVA]

I have the CTA tool and it works perfectly every time.