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  #21  
Old 04-15-2010, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmdubbs View Post
what filter
There is a filter(screen) inside the power steering reservoir. You can't remove it or clean it, as it is installed when the reservoir was assembled. To replace it, you need to buy a new reservoir. None of the posters above using the 'turkey baster' method of changing a portion of the fluid are changing the filter, as the two processes are different; if you were changing the reservoir, you wouldn't use a turkey baster to avoid draining the system.

I think it would be reasonable to change the filter (and reservoir) around 100,000 miles, but it is a judgement call. Here is what it looks like, photo copied from another board.
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:39 PM
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Interesting I did the turkey blaster method and left the filter in place. I would be interested to see what a dirty filter looks like.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:48 PM
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If someone is going as far as removing the resevoir, you might as well backflush the resevoir instead of just buying another...but then again, it's only $20. The turkey baster isn't really any less messy than just disconnecting the lines at the pump, but the baster is probably easier. I've just disconnected the lines at the pump and drained the entire system, then I know I got a full fluid change. For the extra bit of time it takes, it's worth it to me.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:50 PM
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For all you x'ers, can ya'll open up your ATF reser. and tell me if there is a O Ring or Gasket underath your cap. Mine tends to be grimey and I have always wondered about this since neither is on my cap...
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  #25  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:54 PM
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Yes, the resevoir can be opened and there is a gasket. I've gotten new gasket on ebay for like $1-$2 shipped.
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
I've just disconnected the lines at the pump and drained the entire system, then I know I got a full fluid change. For the extra bit of time it takes, it's worth it to me.
I agree. If you are going to change the fluid, get as much of it out as possible. You wouldn't change 1/4 of your engine oil at a time, so get all the old fluid out by disconnecting a line.
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2010, 03:51 PM
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I think I mentioned this before, but turning the wheels from lock to lock once the lines are removed will pump out (squirting, so be careful) the fluid in the lines. Fill, start the car, turn lock to lock again, check level and check it again in a day or so and it should be good. The whole system only holds like a quart.
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  #28  
Old 07-14-2010, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
I think I mentioned this before, but turning the wheels from lock to lock once the lines are removed will pump out (squirting, so be careful) the fluid in the lines. Fill, start the car, turn lock to lock again, check level and check it again in a day or so and it should be good. The whole system only holds like a quart.
did you remove a hi pressure line? Or just the reservoir to pump line? If hi pressure, which one did you remove? I want to remove all the fluid in the system. Im replacing the reservoir and line to pump as well.
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  #29  
Old 07-14-2010, 10:53 PM
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Honestly, I don't remember...just get to the lowest line possible so it'll drain out as much of the old fluid as possible. It's only gonna take a quart or two to fill it up, so you want to let it sit and drain so it's not dilluted with the old stuff. You'll never get every drop out, so don't worry about it too much.
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600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's

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  #30  
Old 08-14-2010, 11:35 PM
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How much ATF do I need to replace the old fluid?
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